[Solved] VP44 Injection Timing Solenoid Valve Issue - Engine Power Loss Post 2-3 Minutes Start-up

Hello.
I think I have a problem with the injection timing solenoid valve in the VP44 memory
After starting the engine, everything is ok for 2-3 minutes.

After this time, an error appears:
00550 - Adjustment of the injection start angle
08-10 - Regulation limit exceeded - Occasional

as you can see below, in the attached picture in the green frame after these 2-3 minutes. appear: 0.0 PGMP, engine loses power - works unevenly.




Now I have a question, can it really be this: "injection solenoid valve"?
I will add that the insulation from the cables from this valve has crumbled. So I put on a cable T-shirt.
But the problem remained.
Everything is ok for 2-3 minutes after starting the engine.
If this valve were damaged, then there should be some error in the diagnostic program?
I would like to ask for a tip what else could be the reason?

Thank you in advance for your response. greetings

I had a long time ago damage to the controller in the circuit of this solenoid - irreparable, for me there was no control. Check if you have any control during the fault measuring current or oscilloscope would be useful.

Is the fault always there or after starting a cold engine?

Always after starting. I haven't heated the engine since the problem appeared, because as I wrote after 2 minutes. he shakes and lightly kicks.

another error occurred yesterday:

00550 - Adjustment of the injection start angle
17-00 regulation difference.

Today :
Still the same .
00550 - Adjustment of the injection start angle
17-10 - Regulation difference - Occasional

At the suggestion of Pensioner 2 I warmed up the engine.
At the suggestion of Daro122, at idle I measured the voltage on the sensor wires - 3.5 v -. There are slight deviations of 0.1 V.
Tomorrow I will measure the voltage at high engine speed when the engine is running well.

Here is a curiosity:


I wonder what could be the reason? Maybe tomorrow will solve the puzzle.
And can this be the cause of crazy engine? What do you think?.

Most likely it will be when you replace the solenoid valve - it can get short-circuited, voltage measurement does not contribute much. It's better as we measure current consumption, but here you need a tick and an oscilloscope.

I am also of the same opinion as you. I will combine some reliable valve.

Unclip this coolant temperature sensor and see how it goes.
He should walk with the emergency dose, with the error of this sensor and turn on the cooling fans.
Well, unless the diagnostic program distorts, but I doubt it. If he will give too much injection because he will think it is 16 degrees and he will not catch the error of the temperature sensor, he may drop it on the valve that he can't.

The adventure continues, it gets interesting:
After disconnecting this sensor, something improved there, not much, but always something. (Strangely not entered into safe mode)
I decided to disconnect the flow meter. But after thinking, I thought to completely remove the intake pipe from the flow and completely bypass it.
Well, something shook here 70% improvement.

Well, I decided to adjust the injection accounts.
it was like that :


I did this:




today, as always, will be a curiosity:
do you remember the curiosity from post # 4 And this cheated temperature?



Someone put in a resistor to deceive the computer. (maybe to give a larger dose of fuel ?? maybe a couple of horses ...)

I dropped the resistor and connected the connector to the sensor. The temperature appeared correct. I put everything together, and it's amazingly pretty good. Maybe today I'll take a test drive.

Returning to this problem with the injection timing solenoid valve, it does not always run smoothly. It is true that it does not hang at zero now as it was before.
Here it is almost as it should:


However, it will not always drive to be "too early" e.g. 16.2 PGMP. Sometimes it stands at 0.0 or 6.2 etc. and slowly goes to 16.2 PGMP - But it is sporadic and when it will stand idle for a few minutes. Generally, you can drive a car. (not too far from home )

Maybe try to remove the adaptations, but from what I remember these pumps were emergency.
And there were probably two types in relation to power, but I'm not sure here. Now, such a topic rarely comes to the workshop.

As for the resistor, you know when the problem is? Did it travel and fall with this resistance, or did it fall after adding a resistor. (The resistor could be installed so that the glow plugs would heat up at start-up even when it was warm, to bypass the firing problem, if there was one).

I had such cases with the engine finished and I put on the resistor and relay so that before firing it would see below zero, and then how it lit normally, which helped (But in the case of these engines I did not happen).

And one more thing that could indicate a damaged valve, but mechanical.

3 minutes of work = warming up the pump mechanisms, which causes the material to expand, which indicates mechanical seizure of the control valve (and this happened in these models).

I used to make a circuit on a transistor, which I controlled the valve myself while the engine was running, looking at that time to maintain its operation and injection advance parameters, which helped me determine the mechanical seizure of the valve.

However, I did not replace the valve itself because the customer brought a used pump and after replacing and setting the problem the problem disappeared.

Toy car for a year. Fortunately, it's a mushroom car, etc. so I care about it on average.
But it would be good to drive.

This failure is the first to date. What was earlier I do not know. I did nothing with him. And the resistor was apparently when I bought it.
Today, I also found that this is a problem with the pump. Sometimes it goes like crazy and sometimes an error jumps:
00550 - Adjustment of the injection start angle
08-10 - Regulation limit exceeded - Occasional

My guess is that this piston (or valve) cannot change the start of the injection.

Now, after all these treatments, it may have happened twice.
We'll see what comes next.

I'm just surprised by one thing:
why when I hold the engine evenly at 2500 rpm (the engine works well).
in the diagnostic program (in the green frame - screenshot below) they will appear for about 2 seconds. 0.0. (Now it appears sporadically)
then an error appears:
00550 - Adjustment of the injection start angle
08-10 - Regulation limit exceeded - Occasional
. After 2 seconds, the engine continues to work well.
So if I keep the engine even at 2500 rpm (the driver will accelerate and the solenoid valve will overtake (the start of injection and everything works stably) why the controller or this valve (piston) would change the advance accounts for these 2 seconds to 0.0 ?? and after 2 seconds return to normal, and work well

Tanned thanks for the suggestion. This resistor mixes a little in this engine.
This morning temp. motor shown with a resistor is -2 degrees and it was +9 (without +9 resistor)

The resistor actually affects the injection account control (screenshot below):
Below is a view with a connected resistor. (temp deceived by the resistor + 16 degrees, in fact the motor is heated over + 85 degrees)



And here without a resistor. (engine temperature + 85 degrees)



As you can see above, the computer (or this driver there) sets the injection accounts quite differently.

For now I leave this resistor. Somehow the engine reacts better to the accelerator. (fires well with and without a resistor)

And as for this "injection solenoid valve" I dare say that it is in working order. Because I cut it off from the controller, the valve closed and the injection accounts changed (accelerated to the max.). The engine began to run like a "tractor". When I connected the valve back to the controller, the controller controlled the pump as it should. After several such tests, always after unplugging the injection account valve accelerated to max. and after connecting to the controller everything stabilized.

In my opinion, sometimes there is some lack of communication between a computer, controller or a sensor. Or the computer is missing something. If there is a moment, I will look into it, whether it is not flooded or something.

This piston of the adjuster, after all, had to be checked in the near future whether everything was ok with him

We'll see what comes next ..

Throw away this resistor or put a circuit breaker on it. As you light up, turn on the resistor, turn it on after turning it on (short-circuit the switch), in the long run you will burn the piston crown, the resistor was installed to turn on the glow plugs.
You're right, controlling the injection angle to work. Still a question; what is your compression on garach ????

With this resistor I did exactly as you write pensioner2.

I don't know why yet, but without a resistor, the motor starts to collect well after about 2,200 rpm.
Up to approximately 2,200 rpm has a light "binge". I can see in the measuring blocks that the computer (or this driver - I don't know anymore) holds as if delayed injection accounts. After exceeding about 2,200 rpm it is only pushing ahead of the account. And everything is ok.



While the resistor is inserted everything works smoothly, from idle to say max. (I don't push for episodes)
Oddly, it no longer crashes (no errors)
00550 - Adjustment of the injection start angle
17-10 - Regulation difference - Occasional

I will deal with pressure measurement in the nearest free time. As well as a review of the electrical installation. Probably not one more jumper or resistor.

As you did the mechanical adjustment of the advance angle on the resistor, now do it again without it.

The lower valve from the injection angle adjustment should first be checked with a meter. Its resistance should be around 10 Ohm plus minus some tenths of a part. Regardless of the pump, vp44 or vp30, the cables from the bottom valve are usually cracked. For any repairs related to this pump, I recommend always correcting the cables from this lower injection angle adjuster valve. The current that the valve draws when connected directly to a 12v power supply or the battery is ohm's right about 1.2 amps and decreases over time. That is, the longer the valve is connected, the smaller the current begins to flow through it, because the valve heats up and its resistance increases. I do not remember too much that a short circuit on these cracked lower cables damaged my controller. After shorting these cables, the voltage on the wires disappears to zero and appears after removing the voltage from the controller and re-feeding it. Indeed, if somehow it was damaged by some miracle, controlling this valve is impossible to repair, because this valve is controlled directly from the controller motherboard by a seven-leg element of unknown specification marked on the added picture borrowed from another topic by a green square

I reviewed the entire electrical installation, removed the resistors, etc. However, there was still no satisfactory effect.
I bought a used pump, translated the driver from the old one, installed it in the car and then everything returned to normal.
The year is now flashing and everything is ok. However, it was the piston from the ignition accelerator that was getting stuck.
Thank you for the advice and hints.

I learned a lot about these pumps ...
Subject to close.