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Gears in power tools! How to repair? How to lubricate? How to exchange?

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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • There are many factors that contribute to the proper functioning of the gears in a power tool. Grease. Type. How to replace. All of these factors are the problems that users encounter with gears.

    What is the correct gear?

    What exactly is a gear wheel. The drive, i.e. movement, is transmitted through a toothed gear. The gearbox is responsible for changing the rotation. The use of the appropriate angle and speed of the gears in the transmission enables safe transmission of power through the wheels, reducing wear and noise. This is the role of all gears, regardless of the many types. See the table below for the types of gears and their usage examples.

    Gears in power tools! How to repair? How to lubricate? How to exchange?

    Only in some devices, such as stationary machines, for example Metabo miter saw KGS303, or an automatic scheduling device we meet the transmission of the drive through a chain or a transmission belt. In most devices, the drive is transmitted through gears.

    Gears in power tools! How to repair? How to lubricate? How to exchange?

    Damaged gear? How to remove the gear?

    Diagnosis of a damaged gear starts with the evaluation of the gear. How do we know that the incorrect operation of our power tool is due to gearbox damage? A damaged gear will be manifested by a characteristic "grinding" sound at work, which may result in a complete cessation of the device's operation or a decrease in rotation on the spindle. The grinding is due to the transmission slipping or slipping. How should I check for damage? The only way is to remove the chainring cover and the gear cover, which will allow us to assess the condition of our gears.

    Removing the gear wheel turns out to be a common problem. The forums are full of advice on this problem. What does he really look like? Each power tool has a technical drawing , with the elements disassembled into the first parts, these drawings not only illustrate what is inside, but often show from which side we should remove a given part, e.g. our gears. Often, reading technical drawings so efficiently requires practice. Sometimes it happens that you simply do not have the skills, knowledge or use unprofessional tools. And the widely described inability to remove the gears becomes a serious problem. The gears can be secured against removal with a left-handed nut (such a nut does not unscrew during machine operation, on the contrary, it is self-tightened to the wheel by the rotational force). You will need special pliers to remove them. And another protection can be a "wedge" (the so-called half moon) it is hammered between the wheel and the axle pressed into the gear wheel. We may also encounter cases where none of these safeguards are used. Then the gear wheel on the axle is pressed on the hydraulic press after heating, the heated material expands, and thus it is pressed more easily onto the cold axle. After cooling down, the wheel, reducing its hole diameter, clamps on the axle / shaft . When we are not sure and we feel bad for our nerves, we encourage you to take advantage of service .

    Grease is not equal to grease. So what kind of lubricant for the drive / gears.

    Lubrication is an essential component of a power tool. The right lubricant will allow us to enjoy the life of the device for a long time. According to Mr. Ryszard, the company's service technician electro-global : " Each machine has a dedicated lubricant to use, if we use the wrong one it's like using the wrong spare part in our power tool. It happens that power tools with a damaged gear, for example, as a result of filling the pneumatic system with grease or oil that was not intended for this purpose, were already sent to the warranty service. Then such a repair is not a warranty repair. Customers often treat grease as a separate element. often on technical diagrams showing power tools the lubricant that should be purchased is given. If, for some reason, the customer needs to choose a different agent than the one he has used so far, and this happens in the case of customers who work professionally on power tools, then the selection of the lubricant must strictly comply with the manufacturer's guidelines. Such guidelines are given on the card of our machine. Manufacturers usually specify the ISO quality class, and the oil viscosity class also in the ISO standard. The selection of the appropriate spread is also entrusted to the service. The method of lubrication itself is also important, e.g. once very popular and there is still dip lubrication, but now we know as a result of many studies and observations that such lubrication causes mechanical damage such as plastic deformation of the surface of the tooth flanks, which generally do not affect the operation of the power tool but generate more noise due to increased clearances between the teeth. And here there is a risk of damage to the gear due to broken gear teeth ".

    Gears in power tools! How to repair? How to lubricate? How to exchange?

    The drawing shows a damaged gear of the power tool HITACHI / / electro-global : power tools, spare parts service.

    So what are the general rules for the selection of lubricants in power tools and what types do we have? In the case of power tools, a distinction is made between: lubricants for pneumatic systems, for high-speed gears, and "thicker" grease for lower speeds. And their properties are usually determinedare based on six parameters: thermal insulation, mechanical stability, oxidation, resistance to very high pressure, protection against rust, protection against water. An example of the characteristics of grease for high-speed gears used in angle grinders can be found HERE

    Another important element, and often overlooked by users of power tools, is the amount of lubricant that should be applied. It is worth answering the question first: How much grease should be applied to the gearbox? Let's discuss this on the example of machines BOSCH .

    example 1) In small angle grinders, e.g. GWS14-125CIE (125mm disc). Lubrication point - gear housing, lubricate the parts (gears) and fill the housing with 9-11 g. Attention! Never fill the gear chamber to full! The right grease will stick to the gears and when the machine is not running, the grease will run off - it will move due to its viscosity.

    example 2) In large grinders, e.g. GWS 24-230 (230mm disc). Lubrication point gear housing lubricate the parts (gears) and fill the housing with 38-43g.
    Attention! Never fill the gear chamber to full!

    example 3) Electric drills - here the matter is less universal depending on how big a drill we have. With small drills, lubricate each element in the chamber and put about 6-10g of grease next to them. In more complex drills with two or three gears. Here we will have to look at the specification attached to the power tool so as not to make a mistake.

    example 4) Impact hammers. Each hammer has a different specification. The lubricant should be selected so that the machine works at its maximum power, obtaining its maximum impact power, here we look at the technical specification. Too little or too much grease will result in poor impact power or no impact at all.

    Gears are a naturally wearing element, but it is worth taking care of the proper operation of your device. Every power tool manufacturer, be it Festool, Hitachi, DeWALT, Milwaukee or any other, has its own specification of lubricants. It is also worth keeping the power tool documents, because they will come in handy even in seemingly mundane cases. We should also remember that highly qualified services make such additions of lubricants during the inspection of the power tool.
    About Author
    gulson
    System Administrator
    Offline 
    gulson wrote 29405 posts with rating 6071, helped 148 times. Live in city Kielce. Been with us since 2001 year.
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  • #2 16811784
    olaf56
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 1
    Nice article ... very useful.
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  • #3 16837173
    przemyslw
    Level 15  
    Posts: 191
    Help: 6
    Rate: 84
    How much equipment can be saved from scrapping! :) maybe announce here who repairs a given brand?
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  • Updated power tool parts database for hard-to-find components

    #4 21917528
    mateuszlask
    Level 7  
    Posts: 3
    Help: 1
    Rate: 1
    Great, factual article. Particularly the point about not topping up the grease 'to the point' is something a lot of people forget and then are surprised that the gearbox heats up or spits out the seals.

    Referring to the previous speaker's comment, apart from the service itself, it can be a huge problem when resuscitating older machines simply to get the right gear or shaft, especially when the technical drawings give part numbers that are no longer in official distribution.

    If any of you are stuck in the search for components, I would like to drop you a line on the updated power tool parts database . We try to keep the current stock there and catalogue the parts precisely according to manufacturer codes and diagrams to make it as easy as possible to select for a specific model (Bosch, Makita, DeWalt, etc.). If you have problems finding a particular mode, it is best to write directly via the form, sometimes something is in stock and has not yet had time to enter the shop. Good luck with your repairs!
  • #5 21917606
    ppwielki
    Level 27  
    Posts: 1676
    Help: 72
    Rate: 290
    olaf56 wrote:
    Fun article.... very useful.
    Rather an advertisement. I use several suppliers and they are all professional. It is also known that all spare parts are no longer bought.
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  • Poor pinion hardening, not grease, caused failure

    #6 21917655
    BANANvanDYK
    Level 43  
    Posts: 7744
    Help: 1163
    Rate: 2578
    I find this justification that the wrong grease was used, causing it to 'run down' the pinion on the rotor a little funny.
    In my previous work, Bosch GBM10, GSB13, GSB1600 drills were continually catapulted into grinding and polishing stainless steel. With the smallest ones, the thin bearings on the spindle died every so often. On the larger ones, the brushes (purchased from the advertised company) had to be replaced from time to time.
    Celma drills, those green "T" drills like from the communist era, were always used for this purpose. I had a whole cupboard of them, because the rotors and stators would sit down and the brush seats would burn out, and sometimes the brush wires would rub against the rotor. They were bought new, until Celma went bust and started introducing Chinese-branded stuff to supermarkets.
    On one occasion, a Hitachi drill was bought at a bargain price of £100 and after a month, the pinion on the rotor 'came off', exactly as in the picture above. On original grease, the drill had not been repaired before. No one will tell me because the tracks were bad (meaning the grease). It was simply that the toothing was too poorly hardened at the factory, or too shallow. It wasn't worth repairing, I don't know if parts were even available. Another one was bought, but it was already only used for drilling.
    As much as I have repaired these power tools, it was only in some really old examples from the '90s that there was noticeable wear on the rotor pinion. I think there have only been two occasions when the gearbox on an angle grinder was "run down". Twice the teeth broke off. Flooded bearings in the flange of Bosch grinders made repairs difficult. I think I've had seized bearings in that flange three times.
    I once got from my uncle his indispensable Hilti impact hammer from the '90s. There, the 16004 bearing under the crank pinion, which has a not very high load capacity, had worn out. Unfortunately, after so many years of use with a worn bearing, the serration of this gear at the point of greatest load had "run down". Replacing the bearing did not help. The part had been unavailable for many years and a new gear had to be purchased.
  • Minimal gearbox wear despite heavy use

    #7 21917742
    gimak
    Level 41  
    Posts: 6222
    Help: 614
    Rate: 1676
    I also had a Celma drill, as far as I remember a PRC10 and various attachments to go with it. It went out of circulation this year due to the dural gearbox body being torn into three parts - probably no longer available. On this diagnosis, it turned out that the rotor bearing cage on the gearbox side had come apart - perhaps this was the cause of the torn gearbox body.
    In the entire period of use, apart from the brushes, the rotor was only replaced twice. The first time due to a broken pinion.
    Putting in a new original rotor was no problem. The second rotor replacement was due to two segments of the commutator falling out. Here there were already big problems with the insertion of a new rotor (replacement), but we finally succeeded. On the occasion of these replacements, only the grease in the gearbox was topped up.
    I was very surprised that after using this drill for such a long time and quite intensively, there is practically no wear on the gears of the gearbox.
  • #8 21917981
    cranky
    Level 30  
    Posts: 2128
    Help: 70
    Rate: 387
    Good, sensible article with more advice than advertising. Perhaps something similar on brushes?
  • #9 21918486
    gulson
    System Administrator
    Posts: 29405
    Help: 148
    Rate: 6071
    Yes, sponsored articles like this are what we like and 15k views. I'll write to the company, maybe they have some more guides.
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