Opel Astra H 1.6 GTC - Tapping the engine after changing the oil

Hello

I am recently the owner of the Astra 1.6 GTC 16V (160,000 mileage) and the problems have already begun. Normally after the purchase I changed the timing, filters and oil as befits a driver. Some time later, it appeared only on the hot engine '' tapping '' or if you prefer 'clicking'. what immediately struck me pushers (it is worth adding that on a warm engine the knocking is not continuous, scrolls with the normal operation of the engine, as if the pushers were hanging). Auto demolished, pullers pulled out, taken to specialists. My colleagues said that they are not in bad condition, but it is worth to wipe them with 2000 paper and fold them back. And so I did, but unfortunately after a few weeks of nice engine work the symptoms came back.

An important aspect is that the seller selling the car did not know on what oil it is working (the car is downloaded by the dealer) also suggesting an undocumented course I have cast 10W-40 Castrol semi-synthesizer.

Friends suggest checking on mineral oil, as I do not know what it used to be, and as I wrote earlier, the knock appeared some time after the oil change.

What do you think ? Wine oil? Perhaps, however, pushers? Or do you have your theories? Please help and thank you

Regardless of the mileage, the car should be operated on the oil recommended by the manufacturer. Certainly, mineral oil for EcoTeca is a bad idea. Are you sure that you are tapping the plunger, not the acetabulum? It's worth to measure the oil pressure.

https://astraklub.pl/viewtopic.php?f=156&t=802374

A 5W40 or 5W30 synthesizer is recommended only if I am satisfied with the use of a compound on a cold engine, and when it is warmed up, it means that it gets thinner and that's why it's tapping, which is why I'm afraid to pour a synthesizer

The mechanics love the wisest than the constructors

The engine of 16xep or z16xer because this is the difference ??? the xer engine has variable valve timing and variators that often start to make noise.

Nick23 wrote:

A 5W40 or 5W30 synthesizer is recommended only if I am satisfied with the use of a compound on a cold engine, and when it is warmed up, it means that it gets thinner and that's why it's tapping, which is why I'm afraid to pour a synthesizer

Measure the oil pressure. If you do not know what was the cast, then rinse and replace again. A synthetic base is one thing, the viscosity of the other, how willingness to live, does not make sense worse. In addition, the mineral + pushers are a combination of themselves. 10W is worse pumpability in winter than 5W, less synthetic base means faster oil consumption (sludge, sludge can settle).
The fact that it gave way for some time suggests that the pushers are knocking, that it is only hot - problems with oil pressure. So check the pressure.

If the astra h is a z16xep or z16xer engine and there are no hydraulic pushers, only regulation of the valve play with glasses of different thickness.

So the question what the author dismantled or what the engine is ...

Exactly what motor symbol is in this car ???? Maybe then something will be brighter ...

Forgive my ignorance Of course, we're talking about glasses and the engine is z16xer

the z16xer engine has no hydraulic pushers, so only mechanical adjustment of play clearances is a frequent accident to knock the variators (ie camshaft sprockets with phase adjustment) it is worth to see if the strainers in the variator valves are not clogged with burnt oil are these two valves on both sides of the head just behind the cover timing.

tzok wrote:

Regardless of the mileage, the car should be operated on the oil recommended by the manufacturer. Certainly, mineral oil for EcoTeca is a bad idea. Are you sure that you are tapping the plunger, not the acetabulum? It's worth to measure the oil pressure.

I would not pour mineral oil - for me it is stupid to pour such oil just because the engine is old (translation of mechanics from the bottom shelf). The oil warms up more slowly than coolant, so drive around 30km, then run to the channel, take the old oil to zero but do not screw the cork (let the whole sediment fall off), cool the engine after it cools it with a semi-synthetic 10W 40 or if you want it full synthetic that is 0W40. But first check the oil pressure and try to remove the engine fault because it's a waste to squeeze the oil on the oil to change it every minute. Mineral oil is poured into heavily worn engines where there are few cup shells left, valves are broken etc. in one word for scrap which for 3 months go to cassation.

MikeC wrote:

it is also worth seeing if the strainers in the variator valves are not clogged with burnt oil are the two valves on both sides of the head just behind the timing cover.

Also check the valve clearances:
Valve clearance
Cold
Inlet 0.21 - 0.29 (mm)
Outlet 0.26 - 0.34 (mm)

The loses were checked, they are within the norm

The wine probably lies on the oil side, it is worth using good lubricants and often replace them as well if it is traveled on short distances, eg once a week to do it at least 20km because the unheated oil does not remove the slime created during driving on small sections and does swamp. If there are no sludge after removing the valve cover, buy a Liqui Moly or Valvoline pluck. If this bothers you and pour in good oil, I recommend: Liqui Moly High Tech Synthil 5W40, Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5W40 or Valvoline Synpower 5W40.

I know the story of a certain Z16XER (some 140kkm mileage), in which a lot of money was spent on diagnoses, replacement of oils, filters, even replacement of KZFR wheels and cleaning of KZFR solenoid valves, and clattering continued.
The car was even in Opel Wawrosz in Gliwice on the diagnosis, that supposedly authorized service, it will know each other, but this service it's a failure - according to their diagnosis, it was necessary to renovate the engine half (they suggested repairing the head, adjusting the clearances, welding the camshafts ) - expense? Another 3-4 thousand. PLN and car 2 weeks on the website.
Not to lengthen - finally the car finally hit the spec, who had a clue what he was doing - after the tests he dumped a sieve from one of the KZFR control valves (apparently Opel has such a recommendation in his services) and the problem disappeared as he took it away. Suddenly, all the "ailments" suggested by Wawrosz disappeared And a few thousand in your pocket ...
What is important, apparently the filter looked clean, because it was cleaned before and the oil was changed twice in a short time. It is possible that the clearance in small meshes overgrows after circumference. Ultimately, if the problem ever comes back, the spec suggests replacing this solenoid valve.

PS. I do not know if you know, but you should pour some decent DEXOS2 oil into this engine ...

LENIWIEC_PL wrote:

after the engine has cooled down, cover it with a semi-synthetic 10W 40 or if you want it a full synthetics, that is 0W40.

The viscosity is not directly related to the oil base, and this is in most cases not 100% synthetic or mineral (eg synthetic oil may have 20% mineral base). In Poland, until now, there are no standards so it is a producer's note (ideally as if the percentage composition was given somewhere). As for the viscosity - as a rule, more mineral base and worse pumpability (the first number, ie 0, 5, 10, 15) but are, for example: 10W40 synthetic, are and semi-synthetic.

After visiting several workshops and connecting the car to the computer, a malfunction was immediately detected. It is not the fault of oil or glasses, and so-called chamfers (variable timing gear wheels). All the mechanics were in agreement with each other, and yesterday the car was bolted to the computer, which only confirmed this thesis. Fury will go to the mechanic this week, but this year Mikołaj will be poor, because the cost of the whole part is 1000 PLN. Thank you all for your help and at the same time I am closing the topic.