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Error P0420 Catalyst system, cylinder row 1-function below threshold

lenad 132087 17
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How can I fix a P0420 catalyst efficiency fault on a Skoda Octavia 1.6 MPI, and could a bad emulator or sensor be the cause?

P0420 on this Octavia is most often caused by a worn or missing catalyst, not by the first probe, and a badly made emulator can also trigger it if the probe offset or hole size is wrong [#16840880] Check live data and verify the catalyst with an exhaust-gas analyzer; in the thread, HC 238 was treated as a sign that the catalyst may be ineffective, assuming the engine runs smoothly and does not burn oil [#16842636] Also check for intake leaks, exhaust leaks from the head to the second probe, and confirm the engine is really operating in closed loop [#16842636] The simplest permanent fix suggested was to replace the catalyst, clear the fault, and then re-test after driving 30–40 km or after a longer drive [#16841123] [#16841435] If you want to keep an emulator, one user reported that an electronic emulator worked, while a simple tube-style insert did not, and another said deleting the second probe in the ECU software finally eliminated the warning [#18804973] [#18939019]
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  • #1 16840769
    lenad
    Level 10  
    Posts: 34
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    Hello .
    I just saw this error. From what I've already read on this topic, it's enough to turn on the emulatorsond and it should be OK. I bought a car a few days ago and it turns out that the emulator is already screwed. can it be the cause? A broken catalyst, probe and maybe something else. I am annoyed with this lam and I would like to remove the cause. Has anyone succeeded? Thank you in advance for your help. I will add that this is the Skoda Octavia 1.6 MPI. Something seems to me that in the German engines the probe is a bane. In Japan, it somehow falls out better.
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  • #2 16840880
    grala1
    VAG group specialist
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    Damaged probe rather not because then you would have an error talking about the inactivity of the probe but it is worth checking in blocks what it shows.
    The most probable cause here is the catalyst - worn or missing, there may be no cartridge inside.
    It is possible that the emulator that is mounted there is badly made - too small probe offset or too large hole in the emulator.
    Yes, you think - it seems to you.
    I somehow do not have the impression that probes sit faster in German cars.
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  • #3 16841075
    lenad
    Level 10  
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    I think that there is no contribution because you can see welding around the catalyst. But is it possible to check whether the catalytic converter is there and if it is operational? Is there any other way to turn this lamp off. It annoys me terribly. I will check the probe and let you know.
  • #4 16841123
    przemek25l
    Level 29  
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    First, we remove the fault. In this case, it is most likely to replace the catalyst. Then we delete the mistakes and drive an efficient car.
  • #5 16841186
    lenad
    Level 10  
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    And how much such a catalyst can cost. I saw on the net for about PLN 500. to swallow but they are probably replacements. Is it worth to mount such a thing? Is it better used but the original? All in all, I would prefer to mount a catalyst and have a problem with my head. The emulator reflects the probe down significantly below the chassis and the probe I can lose sometime. All the more so because we are approaching the winter and the drought may not be difficult.
  • #6 16841207
    grala1
    VAG group specialist
    Posts: 9812
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    The flue gas analyzer, but if it was welded, maybe the cartridge was torn and removed because it buzzed or someone took it out for money.
    Is the catalyst for 500zl worth something?
    I would not put it in my car.
    If someone too old can give 250 PLN, he takes it to a larger company which gives him more for it because those who buy something sell it and do it for free. Then someone recovers from this precious materials, makes a new contribution and puts it in a new housing, inserts it into the store and all this in 250zl where in this amount is already the profit of the store, the price for a new housing, tax, etc.
    You have to think logically because something stinks for me.
  • #7 16841295
    przemek25l
    Level 29  
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    The catalyst for 200-300zl is the money expelled. A better catalyst that starts running costs under 1000 zlotys
  • #8 16841386
    lenad
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    I found. There is a guest in the area who deals with silencers, etc. For my car, the cost of the catalyst is 900 PLN.
  • #9 16841435
    przemek25l
    Level 29  
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    How You have to give it. But please do it so go to someone who has an exhaust gas analyzer and do the analysis to take the printout. After changing the catalyst, burn it or do it from 30-40 km and do the exhaust analysis again. Then compare the results and you will see what was created.
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  • #11 16842636
    przemek25l
    Level 29  
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    Which year of this Octavi?
    WHAT is too big.
    HC 238 may indicate a lack of catalyst. Of course, provided that the engine runs smoothly, the ignition does not fall out and the engine does not take oil.
    Please check why CO is exceeded. It proves a rich mixture. I hope that the car car worked in CL or closed loop. Because if there is a broadband probe, it is best to check with the diagnostic tester in hand. Then you can see if the car is working in a closed loop. I have checked several times and for example how the engine will go out and start again It is sometimes necessary to wait even a few minutes, which always amazes me. I noticed this only in 1.6 skoda vw etc. with a broadband probe.
    Check the suction manifold for leaks. And all connections between the filter and the suction collector. Check the tightness of the exhaust, in particular from the head to the second probe. There is no right to be any purging here.
  • #12 16843889
    lenad
    Level 10  
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    [movie: d94cbda12e] https://filmy.elektroda.pl/33_1511449836.mp4 [/ film: d94cbda12e] What is a closed loop? Probe rather broadband, six wires of course the first one before the catalyst. At low revolutions the engine wavers a little, the pressure in the collector also a bit of a wave - it may be so. It does not take oil. I did not do the entire 1000 km with this car, but if it took, I think it would be visible. What interesting me. As the car I bought the error 420 showed up more often because after about 30, 40 km. Yesterday I drove the car on the highway for about 100 km and there is no mistake. I have a video from the work of the probes but I will not paste it here.
  • #13 16853131
    lenad
    Level 10  
    Posts: 34
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    Board Language: polish
    Welcome back. I checked the tightness of the intake system today and cleaned the throttle. I also exchanged candles. I did not find any leaks. One thing that puzzles me is that I was not able to adapt the throttle. Candles that I made had different colors, from gray-silver to brown and black. My question: Can fuel injectors have an effect here?
  • #14 17039471
    lenad
    Level 10  
    Posts: 34
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    Board Language: polish
    Welcome back. I wanted to learn something about the temperature of the catalyst.
    Now I've got the car interface plugged in and I noticed that it shows me the catalyst temperature -32. On channel 43 it also indicates a value of 0.4V, sometimes it will jump to 0.3V. I will add that the car was cold and the temperature outside in the 0 degrees limit. I have a problem with the catalyst because I sometimes get an error 420. The catalyst is physically but I do not know in what condition. From what I know, the catalyst checks the probe behind the catalyst. My question is about whether this is actually the second probe and whether such a temperature indicates a fallen probe / heater? Or maybe about some other problem.
    Regards and waiting for hints.
  • #15 17960335
    andrzej163
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 5
    Board Language: polish
    The second probe can have a higher resistance of the heater due to wear ... this may cause erroneous analysis of the heater. I checked. The heater was 7.6 ohms and it was P0420. I replaced it with the heater where it has 7 ohms and is ok.

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    Of course, it's about the exhaust gas analysis, not the heater ...
  • #16 18804973
    user1442536
    Level 10  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 11
    Board Language: polish
    Hello,
    If anyone else is interested in this topic, I had the same problem (in the Audi A3 1.6 MPI car). I have an old catalyst, rather remains of it, the probe was checked with a meter and worked. The mechanic installed a probe emulator for me, but electronic (cost with assembly PLN 300). He told me that those from the allegro for a few zlotys (tube with a hole) will not solve such a topic and they will assemble the electronic ones and everything works as it should. So far, the check has disappeared and does not appear.
  • #17 18938894
    Anon1997
    Level 9  
    Posts: 39
    Rate: 10
    Board Language: polish
    Hello. Let me (quite late) add something from myself.
    A few years ago I had similar problems in Hyundai getz. There was an emulator (the one from the Allegro) for the second probe, and it was ok for about a year, but then this error started to appear again. It only helped to unscrew this emulator and weld this hole in there (it probably has 3mm) and re-drilling only a smaller size, the car has been running for maybe 7/8 years and nothing shows up so far.
  • #18 18939019
    user1442536
    Level 10  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 11
    Board Language: polish
    Well, I can add a correction to my previous post. After 100km, the check crashed again. Computer removal of the second probe helped. Check is gone amen. This is done by downloading the current program to the computer, deleting the second probe and uploading the entire program back to the car. Such a thing works when the second probe is only diagnostic, like mine. In some cars, it is not only for diagnosis from what I learned and then it may not be so easy.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the P0420 error code, indicating a catalyst system efficiency issue in a Skoda Octavia 1.6 MPI. Users suggest that the problem may stem from a faulty catalytic converter or an improperly functioning probe emulator. Recommendations include checking the catalytic converter's condition, considering the installation of a high-quality catalyst, and using an electronic probe emulator instead of cheaper alternatives. Users also discuss the importance of exhaust gas analysis to diagnose the issue accurately and the potential impact of fuel injectors and intake system leaks on the error. The conversation highlights the varying costs of catalysts and the necessity of ensuring proper installation and functionality of components to resolve the error.
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FAQ

TL;DR: P0420 on 1.6 MPI often traces to a tired or missing cat; some fixes last briefly—“After 100km, the check crashed again.” Diagnose cat/O2s, verify exhaust leaks, then choose OEM‑quality cat or a proper software/electronic workaround. [Elektroda, user1442536, post #18939019] Why it matters: This FAQ helps Skoda/VAG owners stop the check‑engine loop and avoid wasting money on ineffective parts.

Quick Facts

What does code P0420 mean on Skoda/VW 1.6 MPI?

P0420 signals the catalyst’s efficiency is below threshold on Bank 1. On these engines it often points to a worn or empty substrate, or incorrect O2 spacer/emulator setup. Start by reading both O2 sensors, checking for exhaust leaks before the rear sensor, and confirming closed‑loop operation when warm. [Elektroda, grala1, post #16840880]

How can I confirm if my catalytic converter is empty or ineffective?

Use an exhaust‑gas analyzer and look for high CO and elevated HC at idle and fast idle. Visual clues like welds around the cat can indicate prior gutting. If readings are poor, replace the cat, clear codes, drive 30–40 km, and recheck. [Elektroda, przemek25l, post #16841435]

Is a 500 PLN aftermarket catalyst worth installing?

No. Experienced members report 200–500 PLN catalysts underperform or fail early. A unit that actually works comes in near 900–1000 PLN for this application. “A better catalyst that starts running costs under 1000 zlotys.” [Elektroda, przemek25l, post #16841295]

Used OEM vs. cheap new aftermarket—what should I choose?

Avoid rock‑bottom units. Low‑cost cats often contain minimal precious metals. Logical cost math suggests corners are cut if a recycler, housing, labor, and retail all fit into 250–500 PLN. Choose proven‑quality parts or reputable refurb units. [Elektroda, grala1, post #16841207]

Can an O2 spacer/emulator really clear P0420?

Mechanical spacers can work only if the orifice is sized correctly. Too large a hole lets the code return; resizing fixed one long‑term case. Electronic emulators can help but may be a temporary band‑aid. [Elektroda, Anon1997, post #18938894]

What’s better: mechanical spacer or electronic emulator?

An electronic emulator installed for ~PLN 300 cleared the light initially on a 1.6 MPI with a worn cat. Mechanical tubes from marketplaces often fail. Note: durability varies and underlying cat issues remain. [Elektroda, user1442536, post #18804973]

Why did my P0420 disappear after highway driving but return later?

Sustained highway heat can temporarily improve catalyst oxidation, delaying the fault. After normal mixed driving, efficiency tests fail again and P0420 returns. One owner saw the light back after 100 km. [Elektroda, user1442536, post #18939019]

Can I solve this by deleting the second O2 sensor in software?

One owner disabled the rear O2 in the ECU and the light stayed off. This only works when the rear sensor is strictly diagnostic. Some cars use it for control, so deletion won’t be viable. [Elektroda, user1442536, post #18939019]

What is “closed loop,” and why does it matter here?

Closed loop means the ECU uses O2 feedback to adjust fueling. If it isn’t in closed loop when warm, readings mislead. On some 1.6 MPI engines, closed loop after restart can take minutes, affecting analyzer results. [Elektroda, przemek25l, post #16842636]

How do intake or exhaust leaks trigger P0420?

Unmetered air at the intake skews fuel trims rich or lean. Exhaust leaks before the rear O2 admit air, fooling the ECU’s efficiency test. Seal the system from the head to the second probe before judging the cat. [Elektroda, przemek25l, post #16842636]

How do I use an analyzer to verify catalyst fix? (3 steps)

  1. Test before repairs; print results for CO, HC at idle and 2500–3000 rpm.
  2. Replace the catalyst and drive 30–40 km to light it off.
  3. Re‑test and compare; improved CO/HC confirms restored conversion. [Elektroda, przemek25l, post #16841435]

Could the rear O2 heater cause a false P0420?

Yes. A worn heater with higher resistance can degrade readings. One case measured 7.6 Ω and set P0420. Replacing with a 7.0 Ω heater resolved it. “The second probe can have a higher resistance of the heater.” [Elektroda, andrzej163, post #17960335]

My scan shows catalyst temperature −32 and rear O2 at 0.3–0.4 V when cold—normal?

Those values were observed alongside intermittent P0420 in the thread. Such readings point you to inspect the rear sensor circuit and heater, then repeat tests warm. Address fueling and leaks first. [Elektroda, lenad, post #17039471]

Why can’t I adapt the throttle, and could injectors be involved?

A member cleaned the throttle, checked intake tightness, and changed plugs but couldn’t adapt. Mixed plug colors suggest uneven fueling. Inspect injectors, wiring, and air leaks again before catalyst judgment. [Elektroda, lenad, post #16853131]

How do I quickly check the rear O2 heater with a multimeter? (3 steps)

  1. Unplug the rear O2; locate the two heater pins.
  2. Measure resistance across heater pins at room temperature.
  3. Compare to known‑good value; around 7.0 Ω worked where 7.6 Ω set P0420. [Elektroda, andrzej163, post #17960335]

What’s the best long‑term fix for recurring P0420 on 1.6 MPI?

Fix mixture issues and leaks, then fit a quality catalyst near the 900–1000 PLN mark. Verify with before/after gas analysis. Temporary emulators or spacers can fail over time. [Elektroda, przemek25l, post #16841386]
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