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External LED Lamp Problem: Blinks, Flashes - Diode, Capacitors, Transistors Inspected

sebaele22 38349 16
Best answers

Why does an LED lamp flash every few seconds when powered from mains, and where should I start diagnosing it?

The most likely cause is a faulty LED driver/inverter, especially the electrolytic capacitor near R6 or the output capacitors, rather than the LED diode itself [#16857041][#18320508][#18320455] Measure the driver under load, because an unloaded supply can show normal voltage but still pulse or shut down when connected to the lamp [#18321783] If you want to troubleshoot it, check the voltage behind the bridge rectifier, test the capacitance of the electrolytics, inspect resistors, and replace suspect diode/transistor parts [#16857171] The capacitors do not need to be visibly bulged to be bad; they can lose capacitance or leak and cause this exact flashing behavior [#16857041] If the supply is stable with a resistor load but not with the LED module, the fault is in the lamp circuit; if it still pulses, the driver itself is bad [#18321783]
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  • #1 16856784
    sebaele22
    Level 30  
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    Hello, the problem with the lamp. When connected to the network, the flashing lamp flashes. Looking through the electronics I did not come across anything, capacitors un-boiled, diode transistors working.
    Could it be the fault of the diode itself? I'm sending pictures.

    External LED Lamp Problem: Blinks, Flashes - Diode, Capacitors, Transistors Inspected

    External LED Lamp Problem: Blinks, Flashes - Diode, Capacitors, Transistors Inspected

    External LED Lamp Problem: Blinks, Flashes - Diode, Capacitors, Transistors Inspected

    greetings
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  • #2 16857031
    madamsz1
    Level 42  
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    You can always check how you have something to hook it to, but usually this behavior can be from the converter that gives you the output, and after a while limits. Did you measure the led voltage?
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  • #3 16857041
    zdzichra
    Level 32  
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    This is probably the fault of the inverter. The Chinese will sell and act for a short time. The electrolytic capacitors are not bulged, they do not have capacitance, the same applies to other capacitors. The transistors and diodes on the meter may seem functional but only a substitute for another will give you real response. I have many LED lamps that fell in a similar way. I have cut down the converters, adapted to 12 or 24V voltage and serve as basement lighting or car work.
  • #4 16857118
    sebaele22
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    Well, I do not have anything to connect the same LEDs :-( .
    As for the voltage, I measured them after disconnecting the diode and the voltage was within 60V step.
  • #5 16857171
    zdzichra
    Level 32  
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    It was necessary to measure with the diode also to jump only in smaller amplitude. The driver is dead. If you buy a new inverter or you can convert it to eg 12V and you will have to work on the car or to use eg on the plot.
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  • #6 16857502
    sebaele22
    Level 30  
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    With the diode also the voltage jumps, but by a larger amount of V.
    I would like to fix it without changing anything, only where to start?
  • #7 16857542
    zdzichra
    Level 32  
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    From the purchase of a new inverter. If you want to play with yourself, first measure the voltage behind the bridge or over 300V, check the capacity of the capacitors, check the resistors, replace diode transistors. It is uncertain that the transformer has no inter-turn short-circuit and here is winter cruel unless that you will scroll.
  • #8 16857716
    sebaele22
    Level 30  
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    Hmmm I do not know what to do anymore :-(
  • #9 16857741
    zdzichra
    Level 32  
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    Check the voltage and capacity at least the more easily available because the surface element require a lot of patience and accuracy. Check what you can check reliably and 100% later only the thought of surrendering :D
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  • #10 16871149
    lemu
    Level 19  
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    With what frequency the diode is flashing - 25 Hz, or slower?
  • #11 16871577
    sebaele22
    Level 30  
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    Every 2 seconds something like that :-)
  • #12 18320418
    paul0
    Level 15  
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    Such flashing can also be caused by damage to the diode itself or the connections.
    The diode and the parts of the housing heat up, stresses cause a break in the circuit in the damaged place, e.g. crack, defective solder, it cools down, the circuit closes again and the cycle repeats itself.

    I have encountered this type of damage many times, even in brand LED luminaires.
    Often the cause is a design flaw - the cooling capacity is too low. Sometimes you can see damage - if it is a luminaire with many diodes connected in series (the power supply is a current source, with a certain voltage range on the load, which is known by the fact that the power supply has the current and voltage range on the load), you can see that one diode is damaged - it has a different color or there is a different color at some point. If the power supply has a large voltage range on the load, you can reduce the power of the luminaire by removing and bridging some of the diodes, which will reduce the amount of light but also the thermal power, which will lower the temperature and extend the life of the luminaire.

    There are a series of luminaires with different powers, which have the same power supply, Philips 50W and 70W led luminaires (I do not remember the type, they are from the same series) have the same power supply, and they differ in the number of diodes in series, modules with diodes in the whole series are the same, there are more modules connected in series in the luminaires of higher power. In these luminaires there was a problem with the bridges between the modules - they were of some very difficult solder alloy, so that even in the factory they had a problem soldering it, when I replaced all the bridges for copper.
  • #13 18320455
    750kV
    Level 33  
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    After all, the author of the topic wrote:
    sebaele22 wrote:

    As for tension, I measured them after disconnecting the diode and the voltage was in the 60V range.

    So what do these effects have to damage the diode structure, stress, or connections in the LED module itself ..?

    Try to change the electrolytic capacitors at the inverter output (photo 2 right side). When the voltage increases, one of them can overload the system (short circuit, leakage), which the current limiter "sees" as the rated diode current.
  • #14 18320508
    teskot
    Rest in Peace
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    90% is the fault of the electrolytic capacitor with the R6 resistor visible in the first picture.
  • #15 18320697
    sebaele22
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    I will exchange it out of curiosity if I find one :-)
  • #16 18320912
    teskot
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    It may be different, with a capacity equal to or greater, and the same voltage of 25V or more.
  • #17 18321783
    paul0
    Level 15  
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    If it is a power supply, measurements should be made with the power supply loaded, so that the voltage on the load is within the range specified on the power supply plate. The power supply without load, as well as with a short circuit at the output will behave unusually, different power supplies react differently to such a state.
    These power supplies that I dealt with in the event of a short circuit would turn off, and when the voltage on the load was too high, some of them would turn off, and some would have the effect of pulsing - the power supply was supplying current, detecting too high voltage on the load, ceasing to supply current after a certain time ( this time was different for different types of power supplies, range 1 ... 5s) the cycle was repeated.

    To check if the PSU is to blame or the diode, it was necessary to load the power supply with a resistor, so that the voltage across the resistor was within the voltage range on the load given on the plate of the given power supply. If the voltage on the load connected in this way was stable - the reason was the diode circuit. If not - the reason was the power supply, which was then replaced with a new one (in these fittings the power supply was unreparable - electronics flooded with chemically hardened resin)

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a malfunctioning external LED lamp that exhibits flashing behavior when connected to a power source. The user has inspected various components, including capacitors, diodes, and transistors, without finding visible damage. Responses suggest that the issue may stem from the inverter or the electrolytic capacitors, which could be failing despite appearing intact. Recommendations include measuring voltages across components, replacing suspected faulty capacitors, and considering the inverter's output characteristics. The importance of testing under load conditions is emphasized to accurately diagnose the problem. Additionally, potential design flaws in the LED module are noted as contributing factors to the malfunction.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Fast LED blinking is usually a bad driver cap; one post estimates “90% is the fault of the electrolytic capacitor.” Replace/load‑test before swapping LEDs. [Elektroda, teskot, post #18320508]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps DIYers diagnose and fix outdoor LED floodlights that blink, flash, or pulse without replacing the whole lamp.

Quick Facts

Why does my LED floodlight blink every two seconds?

That rhythm matches a driver going into protection, then recovering. Many constant‑current supplies pulse every 1–5 seconds when the LED load voltage drifts outside the allowed range. Load‑testing confirms this behavior and separates driver faults from LED faults. [Elektroda, paul0, post #18321783]

How can I tell if the driver or the LED module is bad?

Load the driver with a suitable resistor so the output sits within its rated voltage window. If the voltage stays stable, suspect the LED string or joints. If it still pulses or shuts down, the driver is faulty. “Measurements should be made with the power supply loaded.” [Elektroda, paul0, post #18321783]

What voltage should I see after the bridge rectifier?

Measure the high‑voltage DC bus across the main electrolytic after the bridge. Expect over 300 V DC on 230 V mains. If it is low or heavily rippled, check the bridge and bulk capacitor before anything else. [Elektroda, zdzichra, post #16857542]

Should I measure the driver with the LEDs disconnected?

Avoid no‑load measurements for diagnosis. Many LED drivers behave abnormally when open‑circuit, including pulsing or shutdown. Always test under a realistic load within the driver’s voltage range to get meaningful readings. [Elektroda, paul0, post #18321783]

Which parts fail most often in these blinking lamps?

Electrolytic capacitors are the primary culprits. One experienced repairer reports “90% is the fault of the electrolytic capacitor,” often near a series resistor (e.g., labeled R6). Replace suspect caps first. [Elektroda, teskot, post #18320508]

How do I load‑test the LED driver safely? (3 steps)

  1. Calculate a power resistor so the driver’s current creates a voltage inside its rated range.
  2. Connect the resistor and power on briefly; observe if output stabilizes.
  3. If stable, inspect LEDs/solder; if pulsing or tripping, service the driver. [Elektroda, paul0, post #18321783]

Can damaged LEDs or bad solder cause slow flashing?

Yes. Heat can open micro‑cracks or weak joints, breaking the series string. Cooling restores contact, creating a blink cycle. Look for discolored chips or odd color points along the series chain indicating a failing LED or bridge. [Elektroda, paul0, post #18320418]

Voltage jumps with LEDs connected and disconnected—what does that mean?

A jumping output under load and no‑load points to a failing driver. The control loop cycles because it cannot regulate current. In brief: “The driver is dead.” Replace or repair the supply. [Elektroda, zdzichra, post #16857171]

What should I replace first on a pulsing driver output?

Swap the electrolytic capacitors at the driver output. A leaky or shorting cap can fool the limiter into thinking LED current is nominal, causing shutdown and cycling. Use quality replacements. [Elektroda, 750kV, post #18320455]

What capacitor specs are safe when substituting?

Match or increase capacitance, and use equal or higher voltage rating. A 25 V or greater rating was advised for the small electrolytic near the resistor in this design. [Elektroda, teskot, post #18320912]

What is an LED driver (sometimes called an inverter) in these lamps?

It is a constant‑current power supply with an allowed output voltage range. It regulates LED current; if voltage exceeds or drops below the window, it shuts down or pulses to protect itself and the LEDs. [Elektroda, paul0, post #18321783]

Can I convert a failed mains LED floodlight to 12 V or 24 V use?

Yes. Some users remove the failed driver and run the LED string from a suitable 12 V or 24 V supply. This can repurpose the lamp for vehicles or outbuildings when original electronics are unreliable. [Elektroda, zdzichra, post #16857041]

What if the transformer has an inter‑turn short?

A shorted transformer causes erratic operation and overheating. Repair is difficult without rewinding equipment. In that case, replacing the driver module is the practical fix. [Elektroda, zdzichra, post #16857542]
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