Flashing GU10 leds - what is the reason?

Hello and welcome,
I am struggling with the problem of LED blinking. It seems to me that they are of poor quality, the seller otherwise thinks that my problem is the only one. All leds run on DC voltage, so a weak AC / DC converter might be the problem?

For testing, I turned off other circuits in the house, leaving only the light and still the same. I measured the voltage while blinking and it was stable. You can see everything in the recording in the attachment.

Installation in the house is new, 1.5m2 light. The connection to the building is new, only an old switchgear can be found on the staircase, but it is certainly in copper, but since the voltage does not jump, everything is OK?
Maybe a little stupid question, but does the frequency of the current have any effect on the receivers like LEDs? I measured with my multimeter but I do not know if the measurement is sufficient - the result is 0.04 kHz and it does not jump. I do not know if another device nearby (read: neighbor) can cause the LED blinking problem.

I would like to add that it does not always blink and there are different degrees of intensity. Usually, turning the power off and on helps, but the effect is short-lived.

Thanks in advance!

Take one out and measure the supply voltage because there is rather a transformer, power supply and it looks like something is wrong with it. If you have an electronic transformer, the LEDs may not load it too lightly.

These are 230V LEDs, do you want me to take one LED apart and check what voltage the LEDs receive?
I will add that these are LEDs 8W - 750lm

These LEDs are all with one switch you have similar GU10 LEDs installed somewhere in your home one could try to swap places.

pakus wrote:

These are 230V LEDs, do you want me to take one LED apart and check what voltage the LEDs receive?
I will add that these are LEDs 8W - 750lm

... and here's the problem. I have already written about it many times. I have not met any cheap LED> 5W that shone steadily. The problem with these light sources is the too high temperature to which it heats up. Inside, it prevails well over 100 ° C, which causes the converter to overheat and the effect of flickering appears.

The sources should be returned to the store, replaced with ~ 5W GU10 450-500lm, which is more than enough, as it is the halogen equivalent of 50W.

LEDs are on different switches / circuits. They blink everywhere, most often in the living room and hall, however it happens in bathrooms, kitchens and rooms.
I have all the leds from one seller, except for two colored ones - 1W, I have no idea if they are blinking, I will try to observe.

I already wrote to the seller about replacing it with a weaker one under the warranty, but his approach to the matter is that "he sells several hundred a day and no complaints", but I did not order disco-style LEDs

1. Try to add an electrolytic capacitor at the output, eg 10uF.
2. Check if you have backlit switches somewhere.
3.gu10, mr and similar with small fittings, do not buy more than 2-3W
4. You want more light, mount a full-size e27 with small LED clusters and good heat dissipation.

zlotowinfo wrote:

4. If you want more light, install full-size e27 bulbs, with small LED clusters and good heat dissipation.

The problem is that there is no such thing.

I don't complain, I don't get rain for a long time

zlotowinfo wrote:

I don't complain, I don't get rain for a long time

I mean, this is a full blown E27 bulb?

What to give a capacitor at the output? At the switch?
I have one illuminated but it is a separate circuit for the LED hose in the hall. yes they are ordinary legrands.

Yesterday they were blinking all over the house, it seems to me that when I turned off the light in the living room, they stopped, I have to make sure. Maybe one faulty one causes "confusion" in the whole house?

However, if the tension does not jump, what is happening? Does frequency have any effect on light?

pakus wrote:

What to give a capacitor at the output?

1. At the inverter output directly in front of the LEDs

2. Disconnect all backlights and check if it still is

3. Turn on all the switches, unscrew all the LEDs and screw in until something starts flashing, remember that the switch is unipolar, maybe something is going to be neutral

It just so happens that I want to advertise LEDs, so disassembling and modifying them is not an option, I would have to modify 50 pieces, because that's how much I have :)

The backlight is "turned off" by the turned on the switch, because the LED hose is not yet installed - do I have to unplug the diode?

You say that something can sow on neutral, the only question is what and how to catch it?
In the living room, the LEDs blink after 15 minutes of lighting, so as they wrote above, maybe after this time the inverter overheats and the entire installation goes crazy?

I recommend keeping a large margin of advice from a colleague zlotowinfo . No modifications will do anything here. These light sources are overheating and that's it ...

pakus wrote:

The backlight is "turned off" by the turned on the switch, because the LED hose is not yet installed - do I have to unplug the diode?

I was talking about the backlight of the switch. But for testing, it's best to unplug whatever you can.

I recently had an interesting case, there was a few bellows lit up. An additional LED from another manufacturer came to it and it started blinking first. Disconnecting the new one resulted in proper lighting. I let it blink for a long time and the first - quite good quality - exploded, after examination: a capacitor.

pakus wrote:

In the living room, the LEDs blink after 15 minutes of lighting, so as they wrote above, maybe after this time the inverter overheats and the entire installation goes crazy?

I did not notice that you wrote earlier that it blinks after time, then in fact it may be the fault of the temperature.
Maybe explain more precisely what and after what time it blinks, or / where in the ceiling / lampshade above the leds there is an empty space allowing the heat to dissipate.


A word of advice, never buy GU10 LEDs, their housings are too small, the heat has nowhere to go and they usually don't have any heat dissipation holes.

Well, yes, the LEDs blink practically everywhere after about 15 minutes of lighting, so I bet the LEDs would overheat, in each ceiling there is about 10 cm of space for heat dissipation, because these are double-level cross frames.

The longer the candle, the more disco it becomes. To be sure, I bought an OSRAM 3W bulb, everything was blinking except for it. I was about to send the leds for warranty ... but after inserting another led, now LEXMAN company, it turned out that everything stopped blinking on one fuse - 4h test, after removing the LEXMAN a clean disco ... reconnecting the LEXMAN again "heals" LEDs ...

Now the question is what do I have to add to the circuit to get rid of the flickering, maybe a capacitor or maybe some more complex "circuit", I would not like to break the LEDs to compare the construction.

Do you have any suggestions?

1. One fuse or one phase?
2. Does any of the blinkers in any (target) place blink after removing all of them?
3. Have you disconnected all backlight switches, and test all devices for a while on "one fuse".

1. One fuse, I have a single-phase power supply in my apartment.
2. I changed the blinkers, because practically only 4 did not blink in the shelf above the TV and I turned a good one from there, it also blinked, I have as many as 50 LEd. I suspect that some of them are defective and cause all others to blink, strange that other / more expensive ones do not blink
3. Lighting is separate on the fuse, divided into 2 zones in the apartment.
There is no backlight

I dismantled the leds and throw their construction
1. Leaders that cause problems


2. The version that does not flash with defective LEDs


3. Led that solves the problem called a healer
It is strange because there is not much on the power side, and yet it "filters out disturbances"


Compare all three versions


Do you have any suggestions on what "layout" to build?

Let me remind you, abbreviating, after you did not answer:
Have you disconnected ... for a while, for a test, all devices on "one fuse".

I wrote that I have the light on two circuits / fuses, so everything except the light is on a different circuit, I even turned everything off and no changes.
They seem to overheat, the only question is why one of the LEDs eliminates the problem ...
As for a layman like me, it is incomprehensible ...

Hello
It looks as if these cheap harmonic LEDs are spreading you, the led which is stable and the "healer" led has a choke inserted on the power side. You have practically nothing in cheap leds, and the inverter is probably the cheapest one, hence the problem with stability after the temperature rises.
The question is, if the lighting is on, does it sometimes disturb your TV reception? Maybe there is a problem with some other RTV equipment?
In E27 bulbs with a power of about 10W, the Chinese completely gave up converters, there is only a straight bridge, sometimes a capacitor + LEDs connected in series to the DC voltage value.

But everything is in their construction.
Version 1 consists of 13 LEDs connected in series under a 230V rectified circuit with a current limiting circuit. The system probably overheats and starts working at the frequency that can be seen by the blinking. The lack of a filter on the input means that it spreads this frequency to the network.
Version 2 is a classic of China, rectified by the Gretz circuit, the mains voltage limited by a capacitor and sent directly to the diodes. The circuit is unfortunately terribly unstable and the change in value, especially the capacitance, causes them to change the supply voltage of the diodes. And with low power consumption, the voltage reaches the mains voltage, which effectively churns the diodes. Here the diodes are not defective, but the power supply system.

Version 3 converter with transformer. So from 230 V AC we do 310 V dc, then we put it on the integrated circuit. It has a keying transistor that powers the primary winding of the transformer. There is a capacitor diode on the secondary winding. This version is supposed to be not too much, but really the most.

There is no problem on any equipment, the TV sounds clean, the same goes for home theater, laptop and other equipment.

So there is a frequency change in the circuit? Should an ordinary electronic meter be able to catch it? I measured the frequency but in a different circuit and it was stable 50hz, now I don't remember whether I measured it during a disco or not.

Now the question is, is it possible to "heal" these LEDs without any structural changes in the bulb itself, e.g. adding a choke / filter to one circuit?

Is it extremely pointless to send the goods back for a complaint? The seller says he sells millions of pieces and this is the first such problem ...

I would not have any "healing", I would only send it back to the seller. If he is reluctant, do not use the guarantee, but refer to the non-compliance of the goods with the contract. Remind that, according to the regulations, he has to prove that they are operational (and not you that they are faulty). Warn that if there is a meeting in court, you will show a movie, preferably one in which there are shitty stars in the main role and the others shine without blinking next to them. When he sells "millions" of these LED books, let him sell them to someone else and after the trouble.

Measuring the mains frequency (50Hz) does not make sense, because the LED lamps alone have no effect on it, and any possible deviation does not matter for their operation.

The miraculous "healings" you describe are the most mysterious of all, on the verge of undermining the credibility of your research accounts. Harmonics? Maybe they do, but how would that affect flickering, and especially how would others filter it? The most important thing, however, is that from the practical point of view, where does the conviction that this "miraculous healing" will last?

Get rid of them and get something decent.

In my opinion, only version 3 leds are remarkable. I would call the rest payday loans.

And I propose to replace the LEDs with some others, e.g. cheap Chinese and check back then, I had such cases that replacing expensive branded LED sources with the cheapest Chinese ones solved the problem, my cousin's 5 years pass and nothing happens, and before that, every 5 or so 10 minutes, the LED was on for a moment despite the circuit being turned off ... I think the reason was a small voltage induced in the wires, which was enough for the LED to light up once in a while ...
The most common cause of LED flickering, however, is the backlight in the lighting connector, the solution then is to install an appropriate resistor in the connector, but from what I read quickly here, it does not appear ...