Using Jump Starter Powerbank 12000 for Audi A4 1.8T 2000 with Discharged Battery

Hello,

Recently, somewhere I saw jump starters (powerbanks) to start the car when the battery goes out (e.g. when you leave the car at the traffic lights overnight) and we have no way to start the car. The question is whether it will work, for example, for the Audi A4 1.8T 2000? And what do you recommend to buy, up to PLN 280. What to look for? Is such a Forever jump starter - Jump Starter Powerbank 12000 with parameters as below enough?


Product features:

-Capacity: 12,000mAh
-Car output: 12V / 200A
-Maximum instantaneous current: 400 A for 3 seconds
-Two USB outputs: 5V - 1A (max) and 5V - 2A (max) for charging mobile devices
- Working temperature: -20 to +60 degrees
-Lifetime: About 1000 Charging Cycles

Hi
These jump starters only fire up a 2l petrol engine.
I saw how the guys fired from it 1.4 and it seems to me that when the battery is very dead, it can be a problem with 2l.
This is my subjective feeling.

astabian wrote:

Recently, somewhere I saw jump starters (powerbanks) to start the car when the battery goes out (e.g. when you leave the car at the traffic lights overnight) and we have no way to start the car.

If you leave your car at traffic lights overnight, no jump starter will help you. It is better then to have a rectifier or decent jumper cables and a kind neighbor nearby. These "jampers" are only suitable for light starting, they are not able to take over the task of a discharged battery. Even more so if we are talking about a diesel engine - maybe still in summer it might be fine, but in winter (when most problems with starting engines occur)? Forget it.

It's just about starting, so that you can fire up and go somewhere where you can recharge the battery.

I found a different jump starter from Bass and they write in their store that it supports the emergency starting of cars with gasoline engines up to 3.5 liters and diesel engines up to 2.0 liters. It has the function of fast charging and slow discharging. The starting voltage is 12V. It is used for motorbikes, cars, motorboats, scooters, boats, etc.


Battery capacity: 10,000mAh
Service life: 1000 cycles
Starting current: 250-500A
Dimensions: 140mm x 80mm x 17mm
Working temperature: -20C to + 60C


Since they write about the fact that even up to 3.5l in gasoline, I think the 1.8 will start without any problems, but I don't know if it's true.

astabian wrote:

It's just about starting, so that you can fire up and go somewhere where you can recharge the battery.

And poco, after starting the engine, go somewhere to recharge the battery? When you manage to start, the battery will charge the alternator in the car.

astabian wrote:

Since they write about the fact that even up to 3.5l in gasoline, I think the 1.8 will start without any problems, but I don't know if it's true.

It may be true, but ... as they checked this device, e.g. in the summer, when the oil is not as thick as honey and the glow plugs do not heat up, it is really possible and a 3-liter diesel may be available for such an invention. But when you use it, for example now ... it can be hard.

By the way - the life of such a powerbank used for starting is a few engine starts.

astabian wrote:

140mm x 80mm x 17mm

After all, even the high-current 18650 will not get in there. Even if you could make a 3s2p packet, 10Ah would be impossible to obtain. Some kind of fool.

Recently, I saw a similar gadget in a German discount chain. They boast an inrush current of 400A from lithium-ion cells, and you also have two two-amp USB sockets !!!
It is not worth worrying about it, it is better to put it aside and buy a rectifier with a start-up function.
Because if the right battery is discharged in the cold, the jump starter will not discharge?

ORMO_PL wrote:

They boast an inrush current of 400A from lithium-ion cells

Some new generation cells have that much, but they are not cheap.

ORMO_PL wrote:

It's not worth worrying about it

I support.

ORMO_PL wrote:

better to put aside and buy a rectifier with a start function.

Well, a decent rectifier with a start-up costs over PLN 1000 and even using it in something more advanced than the VW Golf Mk2 carries the risk of damaging important electronic components in the car.

ORMO_PL wrote:

Well, because if the correct battery was discharged in the cold

The battery does not discharge in the cold - only the starting capacity drops.

I wanted to buy a normal starting device, which is even a compressor and a halogen lamp, but I know that after time it loses power very quickly, it discharges quickly and is up to ... that's why I looked at something else and noticed such boosters. But now I do not know what to buy to start the car if the battery is completely discharged and I will not have access to electricity and no one will be around. What's best to buy?

astabian wrote:

that over time this device loses power very quickly,

Because the battery self-discharges. You have to recharge it periodically. At room temperature, a good gel battery (and such are found in classic boosters) should be able to "boot up" for about 2-3 months. Unfortunately, the li-ion cells in these small primers also self-discharge. Slower, but they are subject to and need to be topped up periodically.

astabian wrote:

discharges quickly and is up to ...

A classic starter usually has a gel battery with a capacity of about 15 Ah. In these Li-ion boosters the battery is definitely well below 10 Ah. What will discharge faster? Secondly, it is not for nothing that cars use large blocks of lead with a capacity of several dozen Ah and a guaranteed starting current of several hundred Amps. Simply, no starter will allow you to start the car if the car's main battery is discharged to zero. Especially in a diesel engine, which has a high internal resistance to start. With a malfunctioning battery, or with a slight discharge, such a starter can do the job. In more severe cases ... IMHO forget it.

I don't know that now. Better to buy a normal starting device with a compressor and halogen for about PLN 300 or what do you recommend?

astabian wrote:

. Better to buy a normal starting device with a compressor and halogen for about 300 PLN

If you really care about the compressor and halogen lighting, you can get such a device.

astabian wrote:

do you recommend

I would simply spend the PLN 300 on some decent, small acid battery and starter cables. Such a "DIY" starter, but of much better quality.

The author of the thread wrote:

Quote:

And what do you recommend to buy, up to PLN 280.

Instead of all these starters, boosters, "starts", replace the battery with your BMW and enjoy the peace of mind :D

Simple solutions are the best.

Regards Maciek _M

As I DIY, I would do this: 10 li-ion cells connected in parallel. The charger is a simple module. A step up converter for the car. All in all, a 2s5p package could be built. Only this slightly complicates the loading process. It is important to connect our Power bank to the car for several minutes. At 14 V, the car's battery will catch enough time for the efficient engine to start.

J312B Black Decker 300A. It costs $ 35

The battery was bought new, it is one year old, from Bosh.

kortyleski wrote:

After all, even the high-current 18650 will not penetrate there. Even if you could make a 3s2p packet, 10Ah would be impossible to obtain. Some kind of fool.

18650 cells are not used there. In these jum starters there are Li-Pol high-current modeling cells, unfortunately most of them are shit / fakes, so a risky purchase. Noteworthy models can cost more than a regular battery. As for the amount of ampere, 100% is not as much as it says on the sticker, here you have the proof. Link
Here is a fairly strong model.



Personally, I advise against it because Li-Pol cells treated with too high discharge current like to ignite or explode. Personally, I would invest this money to check the installation (alternator, regulator, starter, wires) and track down and eliminate the energy "thief".

Xantix wrote:

ORMO_PL wrote:

They boast an inrush current of 400A from lithium-ion cells

Some new generation cells have that much, but they are not cheap.

ORMO_PL wrote:

It's not worth worrying about it

I support.

ORMO_PL wrote:

better to put aside and buy a rectifier with a start function.

Well, a decent rectifier with a start-up costs over PLN 1000 and even using it in something more advanced than the VW Golf Mk2 carries the risk of damaging important electronic components in the car.

ORMO_PL wrote:

Well, because if the correct battery was discharged in the cold

The battery does not discharge in the cold - only the starting capacity drops.

https://www.buduje.pl/bester-prostownik-z-rozruchem-herkules-300-b18092-1-187873/



I have one, I praise it very much.
I don't really know where your beliefs about external power damage come from.
In aviation, it is common to use combustion generators, which, after - of course - appropriate rectification of the output voltage, are connected directly to the rails supplying also complex avionics. I have been doing this for several years, and there has never been any damage, including starting the turbofan engine.
As for the other statements - fully consistent

ORMO_PL wrote:

I don't really know where your beliefs about external power damage come from.

Damage can occur in new cars where there is more electronics than mechanics. It all depends on the experience and caution when connecting the jumper cables. A small short circuit can cost us several thousand PLN.

Here is a pretty good movie about starters.



A good motorcycle battery should be enough to help start the car's engine in a crisis situation, if we have a two-wheeler, let's recharge the battery at home, it may be useful in the car in winter.

ORMO_PL wrote:

I don't really know where your beliefs about external power damage come from.

If you don't know, it means that you have no idea how the start-up rectifier works. :D

ORMO_PL wrote:

In aviation, it is common to use combustion generators, which, after - of course - appropriate rectification of the output voltage, are connected directly to the rails supplying also complex avionics. I have been doing this for several years, and there has never been any damage, including starting the turbofan engine.

What do you put gingerbread on the windmill? Analyze how the rectifier with the start-up function works and you will find out why its use is dangerous in new cars with a lot of sensitive electronics inside.

Ok thanks for the information, I decided that I would get a smaller but good battery + clamps that I already have and at most I will fire when something happens