[Solved] Fiat Ducato 2.3 130km Not Starting: No Errors, Good Sensor Readings, Fuel Smell - Weak Battery?

Hello everyone interested in the topic.
I have a Fiat as in the title. The car does not want to start even though the starter spins briskly and for a long time. Even after charging the battery for the next day, it will not start even though it "turns hard".
The computer shows no errors. The diagnostician said that the readings of the sensors are good and the pressure too.
Could this be due to a weak battery?
It doesn't work on cables either.
I smell fuel from the exhaust.
What could be the reason for not firing even though there is no frost?

anet870 wrote:

what could be the reason for not firing even though there is no frost?

Faulty injection system. From the filter to the injectors.

anet870 wrote:

The diagnostician said that the readings of the sensors are good and the pressure too.

Pressure of what?

anet870 wrote:

The diagnostician said that the readings of the sensors are good and the pressure too.

1- what are the revolutions of the starter motor when shooting?
2- what pressure does it build while spinning?

Specifics please.

Added after 1 [minutes]:

anet870 wrote:

The computer shows no errors. The diagnostician said that the readings of the sensors are good and the pressure too.

And what about the diagnosis?
What he said? That the problem is in???

Tomorrow the diagnostician will check again and I will post the results.
After several attempts to start with the help of another car (cables connected) and charging
fired. Then he stated that the indications are all good before and after firing and he does not know where the reason lies, he suggested that there is some protection or something with the fuel overflow if I am not mistaken.

to check the compression pressure.

I agree with the colleague above. I had a blown head gasket between the cylinders.

To check the pressure on the rail when the injector correction lights up

I bought a new battery and the car starts only not right away, it has to spin a few turns.
The old battery is charged and holds 12.6 V, so it's probably good.
Tomorrow I'm going to an authorized service center to see what's wrong, maybe they'll find something.
I bought the car a few days ago.

As my friend said above @opal67
Fuel pressure after ignition on, pressure when cranking, after firing and warming up injection correction.

Starting only after a few revolutions may also indicate problems with the shaft position sensor beam or the sensor itself. But then it usually throws out the check engine light after firing.

This morning at 0 degrees, it fired only the fourth time after a long shooting.
Once it fires up it drives normally.

If there are no errors, I bet on injections

In the Fiat service they wrote that interference in the controller, removed "deceived water sensor in the fuel filter", interference in the dpf and several other minor faults.
Until the mileage of 233,000 it was ok on the site and now, a year later, at 269,000 such miracles.

If the ECU was buried unprofessionally, you may not even know that you have a problem, because even the driver itself does not know that it has errors
Once I met such a piece, after picking the DPF, you could unfasten the sensor you wanted, the ECU did not record errors, did not crash the indicator. Parameters supposedly "seen" and were OK
But damn it was not possible to delete the oil service ...

Don't trust the mileage too much...
With 260,000 km, this car should not have any problems with the DPF.
Unless the injectors failed.
How thick they pour, expect even burnout of the pistons and overhaul of the engine ...

anet870 wrote:

The diagnostician said that the readings of the sensors are good and the pressure too.

Maybe I'll be laughed at right now, but take a friend to blind the EGR (for a test) and see how it will fire then.

Advice is not stupid, jammed EGR in the open position makes it difficult to start.
But after starting the car then it does not run well either.

Apart from the fact that when cutting the DPF, they probably also took care of the EGR
But let's wait what the author writes back.

Basically, I would return the car and demand a refund of the money and the costs incurred.
Usually deliberate concealment by the seller of the technical condition of the car.

Check if the fuel pump in the tank is working (pre-fuel pressure). The testers will not catch this error.

The gentlemen from the independent service said that the DPF was "cut", the controller was disassembled because it needs to be reprogrammed and something should be done with the error table.
They replaced the starter motor. Upon receipt from the service -1 degrees C, he fired.
I'll see how it goes after the weekend.
I will only add that it doesn't catch right away, it only has to spin a few times and it doesn't bother me.
The seller says that he will deliver the missing lumber or we will somehow solve it financially...

Candles okay? Compression OK? Timing OK?
The service probably didn't come up with the idea of putting an ECU from a normal, not searched car for a test? Without a normal ECU, diagnostics can be very problematic. I clung to this computer a bit, but that's because I saw such a spartolone car after the DPF OFF software. He just didn't know he had any mistakes.

You can also disconnect the crankshaft speed sensor and see if it still fires for the same time. Is it EURO5 or EURO5+? And year?

The driver was supposedly changed, they were supposed to start with it.
The driver on which I came has errors tz. after disconnecting the components at the engine.
spark plugs compression timing I haven't checked yet but I need it for a mechanical service.
I have to put winter tires on first because it's still on summer tires.

Now -8 degrees did not fire. It spins like crazy. Smell of fuel from the exhaust. the glow plug light stays on for a few seconds longer than the injection light (when the temperature is + they go out evenly).
???

Damage to the candles should be signaled by a message and a blinking candle light.
The control is, let's say, quite sensitive He can light it for any reason.
Break, short circuit, too low current, too high current, loose contact, rotten harness...

Throttle still comes to my mind, they like to jam.
It closes it to extinguish it, maybe it does not open properly in the morning? But again, it should throw out the check engine ...

Pressure of what?[/quote]
Pressure in the suction pipe 97 kPa
Rail pressure 37000-39000 varies.
The fuel pump to the filter feeds fuel strongly, the filter has been changed.

Added after 1 [minutes]:


1- what are the revolutions of the starter motor when shooting?
2- what pressure does it build while spinning?

Specifics please.

When filming, it shows 0 revolutions and when it fires, it's normal (indication on the diagnostic computer)

Added after 2 [minutes]:

You can see that the pressure escapes a little from the injection, small bubbles.
Finally the error showed up:
intermittent fault
P0089 Fuel Pressure Control Valve 1 Malfunction

Added after 4 [minutes]:

He couldn't fire himself. After using a small amount of autostart, it lit. After firing, it worked for several minutes to heat up.
After a few hours it lit up normally, I'll see tomorrow.

Candles in working order. After the transfer test, there were very large differences.

the differences are too big, especially according to the second one, up to 40% between the injections. maybe a leaky pipe. such an amount on the overflow on the rest of the injections, as you can see, should appear after longer shooting, e.g. 10 seconds,, earlier someone mentioned a link to the rotation sensor, rubs off and there may not be.

Now, after driving about 500 km since buying the car, it is impossible to drive normally. No power . The message "check engine" is displayed all the time.
The errors are:
After clearing the error pops up almost immediately.

erdaniel wrote:

maybe a leaky tube.

Everything looks tight and nothing leaks anywhere.

according to AD P2456 - dpf exhaust gas pressure sensor, electric circuit.

What is the pressure on the CR rail that the ECU sees?
There may be a problem with the CR pump or with the wiring, rarely with the sensor itself.
P2456 is a problem with the DPF differential pressure sensor.
Usually filter clogging.
The sensor could have died, the beams were wiped, the tubes from the sensor to the DPF were clogged.
The DPF is supposedly cut ... So he should not report it at all if the soft ECU is reworked correctly.

You have purchased an interesting car...
I would start with the regeneration of the injections, because they are in very bad condition looking at the transfers. And not one but all. At least submit them all for thorough verification. Because adjustments by what and transfers (although not as different as with you) are a bit relative. And the failed injections will sooner or later drive you into huge engine overhaul costs.
How long they are dead is unknown. But probably a long time. Hence the DPF cut because it was constantly clogged. If you give him a blowtorch while driving, you don't drag a black cloud behind you?
In the meantime, he carefully checked the bundles. ECU-engine (mainly abrasions in the tray on the engine), but also fuses-ECU to be sure. These are their sensitive points.
Then I would give the ECU to someone trusted who will convert the soft to DPF OFF correctly.
Unfortunately, a few zlotys will be ... Even more than a few.
You will do as you like...

And I wouldn't run on fuel for cutters... Maybe the camera is lying, maybe my monitor... But some kind of blue oil

part, the pressure will burn, check the wiring and pipes, if ok, it's a new sensor. Injections - if the overflow test is done correctly, you can see that 3 are released, anyway give the injections to be checked or repaired and that's it for now.