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Renault Scenic 1.6 16V - Immo indicator lamp flashes quickly, does not start.

Mikroprocesor 16551 16
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How can I fix a 1999 Renault Scenic 1.6 16V that flashes the immobilizer lamp and won’t start after a short stop, and can the immo mode be changed with DDT2000 or do I need Clip?

The quickest fix is to restore stable voltage first—check the battery, alternator/charging, and clean/secure the fuse holders and wiring, because this immobilizer fault is described as appearing after a voltage drop [#16964138][#16964801][#16970741] If you want to change immobilizer settings, the replies point to Renault Clip rather than a simple DDT2000 edit [#16964062][#16970778] One suggestion is to reprogram the keys using the PIN so the car stays original and the central locking continues to work normally [#16970741] Another suggestion is to switch immo 1 to immo 2 in the relevant tab with Clip; one post says the UCH can handle both types and that the 'type' refers to the transponder/controller mode [#16970778][#16974440] As a fallback, some users recommend immo off or an emulator, but they present that as a simpler trouble-free workaround rather than the original repair [#16964047][#16964353][#16968174]
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  • #1 16963898
    Mikroprocesor
    Level 12  
    Posts: 95
    Help: 2
    Rate: 7
    I warmly welcome. Recently, in my Scenic I have a rather typical problem for them. The car fired hard in the cold, after a short stop under the store, the immo indicator flashes quickly and the car does not start. I checked with a Delphi computer and showed an immo loop supply error and in the parameters I noticed such data: (keys: 2, type 1 unit: no, type 2 unit: yes). If he thinks well after changing the mode, everything should return to normal? Can this be done from the Ddt2000 level or do you need a clip for this? Is it worth playing or is it better to remove the immobilizer right away?

    The car is: Renault Scenic 1.6 16v Kaleido 1999 (transition model, radio key, clocks and electronics made of polypropylene).
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  • #2 16964047
    sadek1979
    Cars specialist
    Posts: 2534
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    Do immo off and after trouble. These are no longer "salable" cars.
  • #3 16964062
    Pawel wawa
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
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    Mikroprocesor wrote:
    Can this be done from the Ddt2000 level or do you need a clip for this?

    I don't know Ddt2000, you'll make a Clip. It spills when the power supply is low. A fallen battery, broken beam, etc.
  • #4 16964109
    Mikroprocesor
    Level 12  
    Posts: 95
    Help: 2
    Rate: 7
    Pawel wawa wrote:
    I don't know Ddt2000, you'll make a Clip. It spills when the power supply is low. A fallen battery, broken beam, etc.


    Is it worth rearranging? Is the risk of the malfunction recurring?
  • #5 16964138
    Pawel wawa
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
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    It is worth trying and keeping an eye on the condition of the battery, also clean and secure the fuse holders. The fault only occurs as a result of a voltage drop.
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  • #6 16964193
    Mikroprocesor
    Level 12  
    Posts: 95
    Help: 2
    Rate: 7
    Pawel wawa wrote:
    It is worth trying and keeping an eye on the condition of the battery, also clean and secure the fuse holders. The fault only occurs as a result of a voltage drop.


    The only electrician in my city who wants to take up the subject is only for immo excision. I changed the battery this year, but the voltage at standstill is 12.01, and after switching on the dipped headlights on the engine off it drops to 11.7 also probably is not in the best condition: / Thanks for the advice, I will consider buying a clip the more that in the future I want to buy lagune II :)
  • #7 16964353
    kris-644
    Level 21  
    Posts: 618
    Help: 39
    Rate: 74
    Do immo off and after trouble.
    Kris
  • #8 16964801
    sadek1979
    Cars specialist
    Posts: 2534
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    Dear friend, from the beginning you had to write that loading is lying. If your electrician says it's ok, then you and his alternator need to be changed. (the alternator can fix it). You will not disable imma with the clip. There is a switch off option but you will only turn off the red indicator (diode) on the meter.
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  • #9 16965341
    Mikroprocesor
    Level 12  
    Posts: 95
    Help: 2
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    Dear friend, charging is ok. Maybe I put the information in the previous post too weak, but I only paid attention to the resting voltage of the battery with the engine off (12.01V). :)

    I found in DDT2000 (I only have access to it now) and in the "VERLOG parameter saving" tab I found "type de transpondeur, wedge 0 block 1" - "type of transporder, 'wedge' 0 'block' 1". From this I am aware of two types of transpenders for them, one is TP19, which looks a bit like a wedge, and the other is TP21, which looks like a block. Is it possible that this value that changes in the UCH? Is it better to wait for access to CLIPA? Because at the moment I don't really want to pay quite a lot of money for a tow truck to a specialist: /
  • #10 16965430
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17695
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    Take the car to electronics and the case.
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  • #11 16968174
    sadek1979
    Cars specialist
    Posts: 2534
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    As soon as I wrote immo off and by topic. In addition, you can connect the central controller and peace of mind (and mine). Personally, I do it myself.
  • #12 16969924
    Mikroprocesor
    Level 12  
    Posts: 95
    Help: 2
    Rate: 7
    tomasz sadowski wrote:
    ... In addition, you can connect the central controller and peace of mind (and mine). Personally, I do it myself.


    What do you mean buddy? The central version with the radio remote control probably remains unchanged :)
  • #13 16970240
    kris-644
    Level 21  
    Posts: 618
    Help: 39
    Rate: 74
    The motor driver probably has a so-called gumiak. The klepaczka is the biggest medicine for this. For this additional switchboard, as Mr. Tomasz Sadowski said, and to eliminate the biggest error of this car ...
    Regards.
  • #14 16970741
    Jurek220
    Level 31  
    Posts: 1364
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    Rate: 251
    kris-644 wrote:
    The motor driver probably has a so-called gumiak. The klepaczka is the biggest medicine for this.


    In the 1.6 16v engine it's rather not "gumiak", at least I have never met.

    The best solution is to re-program the keys, only the pin you need, unless you do not have one, it will take a little more time to read it.
    And then the central works correctly and the most important thing is that it is in the originale.
    However, we must remember that it has already been mentioned that the battery must be operational because
    otherwise the fault will recur.
    Pozdr.
  • #15 16970778
    Pawel wawa
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
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    Sure, there is no Syrius 32 sitting there. It's probably enough to change from immo 1 to immo 2 in the boot lock tab, no codes needed. Of course, Clip. The second version, removing the immo from the driver, cutting off the line and turning off the control. You can also give EMU, then you don't have to pull the car to the service.
  • #16 16974040
    Mikroprocesor
    Level 12  
    Posts: 95
    Help: 2
    Rate: 7
    My electrician wants to remove immo + use an emulator. Is this a good solution and the most important thing - does the central locking work normally then? At the beginning I was more in favor of switching the immo mode, but I am afraid to repeat the entertainment, and sometimes I drive a car very far ;)

    I was thinking about one more option, namely this immo mode probably means nothing other than the two types of transponders in the keys. Would the problem not be solved by buying a raw "type 2" key and programming it in your computer? Does this mode of operation (immo 1, immo 2) mean anything else?
  • #17 16974440
    adam7009

    Level 41  
    Posts: 5609
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    Whether on emu or without having to program flash, without emu lower costs, only that most can not do it correctly and uploads the cash and then the circuses and x2 costs start.
    The immo type is the type in which the motor controller works, in this case type 2, UCH can handle 1 and 2.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a Renault Scenic 1.6 16V experiencing issues with the immobilizer (immo) indicator lamp flashing quickly, preventing the car from starting. The user reports an immo loop supply error detected via a Delphi computer, indicating potential problems with the battery or electrical supply. Various responses suggest checking the battery condition, ensuring proper voltage, and considering the use of a Clip diagnostic tool for reprogramming the immobilizer settings. Some participants recommend disabling the immobilizer entirely or using an emulator, while others emphasize the importance of maintaining a functional battery to prevent recurring issues. The conversation also touches on the types of transponders used in the keys and the implications of switching between immo modes.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Fast-flashing immo light on a 1999 Renault Scenic 1.6 16V is commonly fixed by switching between the 2 immobilizer types; expert tip: "change from immo 1 to immo 2" using Renault Clip. [Elektroda, Pawel wawa, post #16970778]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps Renault Scenic owners troubleshoot no-start immobilizer faults and decide between IMMO mode switch, key reprogramming, or IMMO OFF.

Quick Facts

Why does the immo light flash rapidly and the Scenic won’t start?

A voltage drop disrupts immobilizer authorization, leaving the LED flashing and the engine inhibited. Keep the battery healthy and clean fuse holders. As one expert puts it, “The fault only occurs as a result of a voltage drop.” Address power first, then attempt authorization again. [Elektroda, Pawel wawa, post #16964138]

Is it worth switching from IMMO 1 to IMMO 2 instead of removing the immobilizer?

Yes. Many fix the issue by switching the immobilizer mode with Renault Clip. This preserves OEM security and avoids ECU surgery. If power stability is restored, recurrence risk drops. Use the Clip’s boot lock tab to change IMMO mode. [Elektroda, Pawel wawa, post #16970778]

Can I handle this with DDT2000, or do I need Renault Clip?

Use Renault Clip. Contributors report completing the procedure with Clip; DDT2000 support is uncertain in this case. If low supply caused the fault, correct power issues first, then perform the Clip operation. [Elektroda, Pawel wawa, post #16964062]

How do I do a quick, at-home triage before towing?

  1. Measure battery at rest; charge or replace if low.
  2. Clean and secure fuse holders and connections.
  3. Retest start and authorization, then proceed to Clip changes if needed. These steps target the voltage-drop root cause. [Elektroda, Pawel wawa, post #16964138]

What battery readings point to trouble on this Scenic?

A reported case showed 12.01 V at rest and 11.7 V with dipped beams on, engine off. Such readings indicate weak reserve and can trigger immobilizer faults. Stabilize supply before reprogramming or mode changes. [Elektroda, Mikroprocesor, post #16964193]

Can Renault Clip disable the immobilizer completely?

No. Clip can switch modes or turn off the dash LED, but it does not perform a true IMMO OFF. IMMO OFF needs ECU programming or an emulator. Turning only the LED off does not restore start authorization. [Elektroda, sadek1979, post #16964801]

Will central locking still work if I reprogram the keys instead of IMMO OFF?

Yes. Reprogramming the keys with the proper PIN keeps the central locking functional and preserves the original configuration. This approach avoids bypassing factory security and retains convenience features. [Elektroda, Jurek220, post #16970741]

What’s the practical difference between IMMO 1 and IMMO 2 here?

They are ECU authorization modes; the engine controller operates in type 2 for this case, while the UCH can handle both 1 and 2. Selecting the matching mode restores correct handshake with the transponder. [Elektroda, adam7009, post #16974440]

What is an immobilizer emulator (EMU), and when would I use it?

An EMU is a small module that mimics valid immo authorization to the ECU. It’s used when you choose IMMO OFF or need a non-tow solution. With an EMU installed, you avoid pulling the car to the service for authorization. [Elektroda, Pawel wawa, post #16970778]

Does this 1.6 16V use the “gumiak” ECU, and does tapping it help?

No. Experienced members note the 1.6 16V doesn’t have the so‑called “gumiak,” so tapping tricks won’t apply. Focus on power integrity and correct authorization steps instead. [Elektroda, Jurek220, post #16970741]

If my alternator charges but the car still won’t authorize, what next?

Check resting voltage and load voltage. Weak batteries can pass charging checks yet sag under load, causing immo faults. Replace a weak battery and secure connections before reattempting authorization or Clip operations. [Elektroda, Pawel wawa, post #16964138]

Do I need a PIN code to switch IMMO mode with Clip?

No. Switching from IMMO 1 to IMMO 2 in the boot lock tab does not require PIN codes. Follow the Clip procedure carefully and confirm power stability during the session. [Elektroda, Pawel wawa, post #16970778]

Can an EMU help me avoid towing to a specialist?

Yes. With an emulator installed, you can bypass failed authorization and avoid towing for service-side pairing. This is useful when Clip access is not available on-site. [Elektroda, Pawel wawa, post #16970778]

Which ECU family is in the 1.6 16V Scenic—Syrius 32?

No. A contributor confirms Syrius 32 isn’t used here. Use the correct ECU assumptions when planning IMMO mode changes or ECU-side work. [Elektroda, Pawel wawa, post #16970778]

What tools are commonly mentioned for diagnosing this issue?

Renault Clip for IMMO mode changes, Delphi for code reads, and DDT2000 for parameter viewing. Owners often start with a scan to identify immo loop supply errors before deciding on Clip work or EMU. [Elektroda, Mikroprocesor, post #16963898]

Are transponder types relevant (wedge vs block)?

Yes. Owners discuss TP19 (“wedge”) and TP21 (“block”) and how UCH and ECU modes must align with the transponder type for successful authorization. Mismatches can prevent starts. [Elektroda, Mikroprocesor, post #16965341]
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