Peugeot 307 1.6 16V 2003 - central does not close the right front door

Hello all. I am asking you specialists for help in solving the problem which I noticed 2 days ago in my car (it is a 5 door Peugeot). The problem concerns the factory central lock of the right front door that does not close either with the key or the button on the dashboard just next to the button from the hazard lights, or also by turning the key in the door handle from the driver.
After pressing the key or button on the board all doors except the mentioned ones close, while after opening the door with the handle, the central door opens all other locks. During the central activation, the characteristic operation of closing and opening the locks can be heard in all doors, while these works cannot be heard. I noticed that during the central closing on the button on the board the red diode pulsates all the time, which was certainly not before. Today, I removed the lock from the door for inspection, but rather it is not demountable, so maybe it is possible to check the lock itself on a separate power supply if the mechanism is working at all to exclude its failure and go on to further searches. 6 pins come out of the cube in the castle, maybe applying voltage to one of the pins will start a motor there.
Maybe someone from colleagues will help or guide what to do with this trick where to check the tension or make other measurements on the connecting cube. Maybe some diagram that will help me orient myself where and where the cables are going and whether the fault lies in the mechanism or in the installation.
Thank you in advance ..

Wires not broken in the door-body grommet?

Cables are functional, not broken or not cut.

So this door can't be closed at all? I don't know if this car is similar to meganki in this respect, because I had a similar case with the right passenger door. For me, you could only close the door with the key in the door lock. It turned out that the actuator was not in contact with the electric motor.

Exactly Yes ... the door cannot be locked centrally, be it with the key or with the button on the board, even turning the key in the handle in the driver's door. The lock does not react. However, when the central door is closed centrally, when the passenger door is opened, the central door opens all the locks.

Added after 52 [minutes]:



The situation is as follows. After dismantling the zipper, I unfastened the ankle feeding the zipper and made measurements with the meter on the pins of the zipper.
-cable 1- blue -2686
-cable 2-yellow-green-MC 627
-cable 3-gray-620B
- 5 ivory cord - 6211B
When closing the lock mechanism manually, the resistance between 3-5 is 53 ohms.
By opening the lock mechanism, the resistance between 3-5 increases to 178 ohms.
(According to the diagram, it is probably a motor.)
However, between 1-2 with an open castle, the resistance is 2.60 ohms,
And with the castle closed, the resistance is "0" ohms.

Then the control with the 24V 4W bulb (this is what it is) I took measurements on the cube supplying the lock if there are signals for position 3-5 and so:
1-mass from the car body and pin indicator light 5 (central locking) the bulb lights up and goes out after a while.
2-open central-bulb does not respond.
3-mass from the car body and pin control 3 (I open the central one) the bulb lights up and goes out after a while.
4-close central-bulb does not respond.
From this it follows that the signal comes in when closing and opening, alternating, so the motor probably turns once to the other way (I think), which results from the diagram.
Now I have decided to check the dismantled lock on a regular 12V 400mA antenna power supply (I know it is too weak, but for a test I checked the reaction)
And so - connecting the wires under pins 3-5 and vice versa 5-3 you can clearly hear that something reacts and definitely buzzing with a characteristic twisting, while after swapping the wires you can hear clicking and humming.
I am not sure if it can be connected to battery power to achieve higher current, so I ask your opinion colleagues and further instructions.

marker1975 wrote:

Exactly Yes ... the door cannot be locked centrally, be it with the key or with the button on the board, even turning the key in the handle in the driver's door. The lock does not react. However, when the central door is closed centrally, when the passenger door is opened, the central door opens all the locks.

So as in my megance.
The attached schematic diagram and photo of the plug shows that pins 3 and 5 in the plug, this is the motor power supply. I would check if the motor reacts to these pins each time (2-3 sec.). By changing the polarity, the lock is closed or opened.
It didn't work for me every time. As the passenger lock was closed, it was opened from the remote control, whether the door from the inside, or the driver's door key, all the doors opened, but you could only close the passenger door with the key.
This was because when the door was opened, the motor in the actuator housing was positioned so that inside the actuator (there is only the motor and the worm gear) at the power supply contact the motor was interrupted. It was enough to slightly open (bend) the pins in the housing of the motor itself, insert it into the housing of the actuator and everything began to work properly. It can be similar here as well.

I checked all the fuses and they are OK, and if one fell, there would not be a signal on the engine, everything is OK from this side. As for the structure of the zipper I am not able to undress it to reveal the entrails because I suspect that the covers are welded and this does not allow dismantling. I will check the engine itself, giving the voltage from the battery because as I mentioned from the antenna power supply you can hear a clear response to voltage. However, after putting on the cube there is no reaction and yet the + signal appears alternately because the light bulb is clearly on. Well, you still need to experiment so that you can exclude something in search of a fault.

Added after 18 [minutes]:

I just checked the engine by connecting it to the cigarette lighter socket and the reaction is one way it sounds like it would work and closes a latch and in the other you hear a characteristic loud click as if it would unlock the latch. I repeated this several times in turns and I think the motor works because it works differently when closing and opening. Also, the reason lies in something else. I will check the pins in the ankle, maybe they are tarnished and the contact is not correct.

marker1975 wrote:

I repeated this several times in turns and I think the motor works because it works differently when closing and opening.

I do not know this car, so it is difficult for me to judge, but it would puzzle me, because in my megance and corolla the sound when closing and opening is similar, so after the very sound I would not be able to say whether the locks were closed or opened.
It was the same when checking the operation of the actuator. The sound he made when closing and opening was the same - the momentary engine work ended with a tap, and visually the piston ended or retracted with the eyelet. However, another sound was again I gave the voltage with the same polarization, i.e. as if I was repeating the action I had previously done, then the engine was not heard but the knock, visually nothing changed.
In the context of what I wrote, check the sound of other working locks when closing and opening and compare it with the one that doesn't work.

There is no piston in my castle, only the engine itself and probably the cochlear system. Giving + on pin 3 is clicking as if the release of the lock and the lock opens. However, on pin 5 you can hear the motor working, which causes the lock to close and, as a result, the door cannot be opened with the handle. Everything is built-in and glued together, the attempt to dismantle the entire lock would end up suspecting spilling of parts and the inability to fold. But these are just my insights.
The sum of the summary of the work of central locks is different and I based on the measurements and tests on this particular mechanism clearly state that the whole lock is good and is already working fine. It turned out that either pins in the ankle or pins in the castle did not have good contact because after thorough cleansing of both the ankle the mechanism came back to life. Perhaps it helped to a large extent WD40 after a delicate droplet on each contact, plus accurate pruning of the pin and the 3-5 responsible for the engine slightly bent and the mechanism spoke. Also, the cause was in poor contact. I also suspected that the contacts on the ground are not conductive, therefore I also measured the meter with 3-5 wires continuity with the ground but the meter did not show any resistance, which means that everything is fine.
Finishing describing the cause, thank you very much for your interest in the topic, thanks a lot for your help.
The topic can be closed.

I'm glad the castle works, but

marker1975 wrote:

Giving + on pin 3 is clicking as if the release of the lock and the lock opens. However, on pin 5 you can hear the motor working, which causes the lock to close and, as a result, the door cannot be opened with the handle.

just for clarity. The diagram shows that the engine has responded (reacted), it is necessary to simultaneously (temporarily) give voltage to pins 3 and 5: e.g. "-" on 3, and "+" on 5 - maybe lock lock or vice versa - then unlocking the lock. Then the sounds should be similar - that's how it is with me.
Changing the polarity of the voltage given on pins 3 and 5 unlocks or locks the lock. Applying voltage to only one of these pins should not cause any reaction, because the motor circuit is always open.

I apologize for the vagueness of my posts. Exactly like my colleague, you wrote about giving voltage to pin 3-5.
Shortening the statements that I should not do, I wrote only about the plus, because it is obvious that the motor works, you need "+ and -". The change of polarization changed the direction of rotation. For the inaccuracy of the written form, I am very sorry and as for the sounds of the mechanism, as I have already written + on pin 3 minus on pin 5, click and unlock, say pawls a + on pin for 5 and - for 3 motor work and locking the lock. Although in this state of affairs the sound is no longer relevant because the central one works and all the locks work well together.

Hello
I will refresh the topic because I have a similar problem.
With the remote control I can close and open three doors from passengers. But from the driver does not react, only the key.
After looking under the upholstery, I can see the cut cables.

Here above in the post it was written that the voltage should reach pin 3-5. I feel like new cables pulled to pin 5-6.
But I made a switch and connected it to a 3-5 pin and zero reaction.
The same voltage comes from new and old cables after pressing the lock or unlock. The voltage is 8-9V and decreases, i.e. by impulse, per second.
I suspect that the lock for exchange .. so much that I would like to be sure and would like to check it but I could not disconnect the cube. Will I find any instructions for removing the zipper and unfastening the ankle?

Thank you in advance.

shuzzly wrote:

With the remote control I can close and open three doors from passengers. But from the driver does not react, only the key.
After looking under the upholstery, I can see the cut cables. Peugeot 307 1.6 16V 2003 - central does not close the right front door

shuzzly wrote:

I suspect that the lock will be replaced .. so much that I would like to be sure

I do not know this car, but I will write what I would do in this situation to check it.
I would check how the voltage behaves (what it is or how it changes) on individual pins (wires) when closing and opening, in locks that work. If I have difficulty accessing the pins in the plug, I would pierce the cable with a pin. And I would compare with the behavior of this voltage on the corresponding cut off wires in the driver's lock. If the behavior were the same then one would expect that something is wrong in the driver's lock, but on the other hand why this combination with these hooked bypasses, what their role would be. I suppose maybe this is information from this lock (driver) to the other locks about whether it is closed or open. In my corolla, by turning the key in the driver's door, I close or open the other doors and the trunk. I did not check if it is the opposite way, whether, e.g. by opening or closing the trunk with the key, I open or close all other remaining locks.