Hello I would like to ask how to effectively vent epoxy resin so that it is 100% free of air bubbles. I manage to get rid of 90% of the same method of mixing, heating the resin to about 40'C, and firing at the end with a burner. But the remaining 10% are really tiny bubbles often visible only in cold light. I tried to vacuum it, but I have problems with it. Temporarily as a vacuum container I wanted to use a jar with a valve, I used a milking machine CTA MILK GPV 200 to make a vacuum But it is not able to create the necessary vacuum because nothing happens, the pressure it produces is too weak? Which vacuum pump should I use? Will I buy enough for 300 PLN? In the future I would like to buy such a vacuum chamber / Chamber-VACUUM-4-2l-to-degassing resin / link I will add that I use epidian 652 resin.
One of the methods is the pressure chamber in which the casts become heavy. The pot has two advantages. You can use it as a vacuum chamber for pre-venting resins. And then after connecting to the compressor as a pressure chamber. Which will help get rid of small bubbles that were formed during potting the mold.
I advised myself by putting the drenched form into the fridge so a few st.C. There are no gas bubbles in well frozen champagne, and there was no resin in it. The time of binding at low temperature is very long but after 24 hours. you can already take it out.
There remains also the question of mixing the resin itself. First of all, it should not be "blown" at the mixing stage. I use for this purpose an agitator that does not protrude above the surface of the resin. In this case, the bladders are trace by the formation of the vortex during mixing.
Good morning, Mr. Pawel, 16146, could you give the name of this agent for venting the resin and on what portal you bought it too I am looking for something (I found a paraffin concealer but I do not know if it works) I play with EPIDIAN 652 resin and IDA hardener THANK YOU VERY
Welcome gentlemen. I know that the subject is from last year but it warms up because it is still visible in search engines. I use the vacuum chamber of my own production for degassing Epidian 652. First, I try to mix with the hardener (and possibly with the pigment) so that the resin does not aerate then "zilc" I close in the vacuum chamber for about 10 minutes, evacuating to a value of about 0.9 - -1 Atm. Then I slowly equalize the pressure and reduce the surface tension of the resin with a burner and again for about 3 minutes to -1 Atm. If the resin is not damp or old - these operations are 90% sufficient. Once at the auction I bought such a resin, which at the first negative pressure boiled like a beer poured into a beer mug at the end of the barrel and after repeatedly venting it was still bubbling - I did not buy anything from this master ...
As for the vacuum chamber - I use a thick garage made of stainless steel and sealed with a self-adhesive gasket for the window cover with fittings made of plexiglass 10 mm thick for fittings I have finished the vacuum gauge to see what happens to the air suction I use the compressor from the refrigerator, which at the same time in the "other side" (together with a regulator bottle with a pressure reducer and a separator / dehydrator kit I am using as a handy compressor for the airbrush and home work - the compressor itself is a different topic - but to flatter it, just enter the "DIY fridge" and then do it
There is also a method to bind binding resins in the pressure chamber and this is a very good method, but for me it has major disadvantages 1. Making a DIY pressure chamber is much more difficult than a vacum 2. Maintaining pressure in it (which is necessary for proper operation) is much more difficult than vacuum in vacum 3. The resin must be under constant pressure to fully bond - which takes a long time - see item 2.