Repair of the rear window heating paths

bati1986 66134 19
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  • #1
    Level 11  
    Does anyone know how to repair the glass heating paths? Are there any special preparations for creating new paths
  • #2
    Level 23  
    There is a special silver-based glue, the cost is about PLN 25.
  • #3
    Level 11  
    I tried it, but it cracked for a little bit, and it did not heat up, someone maybe a diagram of the paths connection
  • #4
    Level 29  
    Connection scheme of paths? Did I read it right?

    | _____________ |
    | _____________ |
    | _____________ |
    | _____________ |

    It's something like this ...
  • #5
    Level 35  
    Well, unless it's a Peugeot combi with a separate window. This is a masterpiece and the question about the diagram is in place. In addition to the heater, the rear wiper and an additional stop flicker on the dusty paths. The paths rot before the eyes.
  • #6
    Level 39  
    If the track glue is cracked, it means that you applied it incorrectly (e.g. you did not clean it, applied it too thickly, you turned on the electricity too quickly - application instructions!), Or you used the wrong glue (old, unmixed, Chinese crap, etc.). Good glue holds very well, I have used it many times for repairs and I had no such complaint.

    It is best to check the power supply to the heating paths with an ordinary light. The reason for the lack of heating may be, for example, a blown fuse or a damaged damper adapter.

  • #7
    Level 18  
    This is the way to go :) , I had silver-based glue {org Renault}, first you need to mix it well {this is the basis} then you know :) cover the tracks with adhesive tape on both sides, and apply the glue (I applied 3 layers with an interval of 3 hours, after each glue application I torn the tape off and glued it again during the next application, the point is that you will not apply glue perfectly to the width of the track and how you start to peel the tape once it dries, the glue layer starts to peel off the track and everything breaks down. The method described is extremely amateur :P , I honestly do not know how it is done professionally, but I will say yes .. out of 10 paths that the glass had, I had to do 8 and so far everything warms up as it should, also in more expensive cars {with glued glass} I see the sense of such a repair.

    I would like to add that the first connection to the electricity took place 24 hours after the last layer was applied.
  • #8
    Level 17  
    Today I bought Techicoll electrically conductive adhesive and did this:
    I taped over the broken tracks on both sides. A break in the path is about 3 cm
    I smeared it with glue and then spread it 3 times with glue only that I have such a problem that these paths still do not heat: / I broke the tape a moment ago and checked so it is just like other heaters and not ... when I smeared the paths, I turned on the heating of the glass for the test?
  • #9
    Level 12  
    Or maybe there is another break somewhere on this path?
  • #10
    Level 17  
    I checked very carefully and I did not find any other break anyway, it concerns 5 tracks. As the current was not so and there is no: / on the manufacturer's website I found information that the adhesive achieves conductivity after 8-24 hours, but it seems to me that it should conduct immediately?
  • #11
    Level 12  
    It should not and will not lead, because it has to dry. If you lack patience, they will do it to you in a glass replacement workshop and give you a guarantee.
  • #12
    Level 17  
    and today I turn on the heating and the glass heats only in the places of gluing: / what did I do wrong and how to improve it
  • #13
    Level 12  
    The whole thread heats up, only the glued place faster and harder. Wait and look.
  • #14
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    I also invested in such a glue, contrary to what everyone says in the instructions, it was written to turn on the heating, which will make the connection more durable and dry faster and that you can even dry it with a dryer. After an hour, the line did not work, but only the gluing point was warming up, I pressed this point with my finger, burned and the line started to heat up! I did the same on the other points and the effect was the same and still works today. It's probably not entirely professional and may not work for everyone, but I say how it was for me.
  • #15
    Level 14  
    I have another problem, I have a broken contact that was (factory) "glued" (soldered ??) to the glass, how to fix it? this conductive glue doesn't hold that tight (tried) ...
    oh, the car is a Micra K12
  • #16
    Level 12  
    They do this successfully in some windshield assembly plants.
  • #17
    Piotr Pajkert
    Level 32  
    For all these operations to be effective, the glass (or the damper with glass) must be removed. Additionally, clean the ends of the original track before applying conductive adhesive. I know it's a problem, but I suspect that's how the website does it. The end (connector) would be thinly glued with conductive glue and strengthened with glass glue. I have one in a tube. If someone wants, I will post a photo.
  • #18
    Level 12  
    I did it in Honda (3 tracks) and the best glue is Epox15, two-component when it dries, it is hard as original. I bought some conductive varnish, but it was "kiszka" and I gave it to the store. resistance - is silver based.
  • #19
    Level 11  
    Hello, does anyone have a detailed photo or a diagram of the distribution of the rear window heating paths in the Peugeot 308 SW after the lift - mainly vertical, because I wonder if all vertical paths should be connected. It looks as if these paths were never joined (at the very ends), the gaps are the same size, the ends are not torn, and you don't see that they are badly fused.