Creating Transparent Plastic Duplicates: Mold Making, Materials & Steps for Replication

Hello, I wanted to make a few duplicates of the plastic shown in the picture below.
The plastic is red, it is translucent.
I want to make the same plastic, only that it is transparent.
Where to start? What to make a form of and how to make duplicates?
I read a few topics but they were of a different type and they didn't help me.

Hi. In amateur conditions, it is not possible to make molds and make injections. The granules are injected heated and under high pressure. The molds are made by specialized companies and are very expensive. Profitability only with very large amounts of injection. There are small manual injection machines with a heater and a manual lever a hot mass is pressed in, e.g. a LED holder, but the mold must be in two parts to remove the element and e.g. the mold for such a holder is 15mm thick.

Is there any possibility of making it out of transparent material? Maybe bend the plexiglass? Although I have tried once and it is very difficult to fit such a shape. Is there a transparent agent that spreads evenly? Or is it possible to make one form, pour a filler into it and press the other inner form down so that this substance spills out to the sides?

For simple shapes, you can make a plaster mold, for more complex ones (within reason, of course), sanitary silicone. The silicone mold stays for quite a long time (several days), but it is flexible and much more durable. You can use a synthetic resin as casting material, e.g. two-component distal glue or the like. If you use transparent glue, you can color it with powdered pigments, the cast will be dull.

Hello. One side of the mold can be made of a special resin. You pour a resin on your slides which, when it solidifies, is like rubber, you remove it, or if you want to fill in the missing form, or add it if something is missing. you smear the pattern with a special wax you paint it with a special gelcoat you put pieces of mat on the gelcoat which you soak with resin and after drying you have a hoof you do the same with the hoof and you have a form.You do the same with the other side and you have complete form. you will pour the resin and this way you can make a cast resin. Only there is always a problem with air bubbles. I worked in a factory where it was done so I know what problems they had.

There is one method that is widely used by aviation modellers, although I am afraid that it will be difficult to perform this method due to the mounting hooks. Take a plexiglass plate and heat it in oil to the soft temperature, you can see it because it becomes like jelly. after the procedure, you put it in a plaster or plywood mold and squeeze it. It cools down very quickly, but in the mold it must remain for about 1 hour.

A solution of plexiglas in methylene chloride can be prepared.
Clean - dries to form a clear block of plexiglass again.
Maybe if you made a half-mold - only the outer side in silicone rubber and "add" layers to the appropriate thickness, something would come out.
Of course, the solution must be colored.
WARNING - methylene chloride is toxic, vapors heavier than air, harmful if swallowed and inhaled, irritating to the skin.

Maybe I'll give you a hint that I saw them make glass panes of plexiglass. I only know that 150 ° C and 30 minutes after this treatment, you have a moment to adjust, but it fits like paper on a mold. Quick and painless. Try it, maybe it will work out.

maybe this friend will lead me
http://www.silikony.pl/
http://www.kauposil.com/index.htm
http://www.monolith-icon.eu/sklep/index.php?cat_id=123
http://www.plastikowe.pl/technika/porady/odlewanie- res
http://www.modelarstwo.net/index.php?tyt=40
http://www.archiwum.gildia.pl/teksty/vasyl_dyah/warsztat/materialy
Young technician
http://www.mt.com.pl/?id=12&ar=wsp
Video tutorials:
http://www.hobbycast.net/
http://www.hobbycast.net/video.htm
http://www.freemansupply.com/video.htm

It is also worth visiting Mr. Ships on the Allegro website

Hello
How would I have a friend, foundry modeling http://modelarstwo-hd.pl it is wlkp. near Śrem will not be useful

Hello

I will connect to the topic. I'm going to make a clamp like in the photo and I'm thinking about the choice of ingredients. For the mold casting I wanted to use this silicone http://allegro.pl/najlepszy-silikon-do-form-1kg-twardszy-i1274650704. html
There is something better
The second and most important thing is the material for the clamp, what do you suggest
It must be plastic enough not to crack when crimped on the tubes and hard enough to hold on to them.
Thanks in advance for all the tips

Hello
The above topics are probably no longer relevant, but my answer may be helpful to others - looking for similar solutions.
In our company / PLASTKOM /, which makes injection molds and plastic details, we encounter problems that usually concern prototypes.
In the case when the number of details is a few pieces and there is no financial means to make even a trial injection mold / from several hundred to several thousand zlotys / the cheapest solution is the replacement technology:
a) making a detail from a plastic block by machining - with this method I would make the above "clamp";
b) gravity casting of chemically hardened plastics (polyester resin, epoxy resin, or types of technical silicones), provided that their properties and the obtained accuracy of the product are adequate to the expectations;
c) execution of the detail using the 3D printing method, the cost of which is close to the development of a trial form;
d) if the shape of the product allows it / coating - e.g. lampshade casing /, you can try to make a varnished plaster or wooden mold and use the technology of vacuum forming / sheet / or a combination thereof.
The detail placed in the first thread post is rather difficult to make with a substitute technology / transparency and non-unfolding surfaces /. The only sensible solution seems to be trying to form it with the vacuum method and then stick /? / Some elements.
And, for using the word "plastic" I was once thrown out of class, with the comment that plastic is used by engineers, not engineers

Today I found something that interested me (American Restoration episode 28). Making the mold and the cast of the indicator, unfortunately in the program they only said "plastic" so I have no idea what type it is, but as you can see it can be done in "home conditions".


The mold is two-piece, first they made the outer form (securing the inside with clay), then they made the inner casting. Unfortunately, the process is not described in detail, I wonder what the surfaces of the outer form in the place of contact with the inner form? You can also see the protrusions in the outer mold (for precise assembly of both parts of the mold.

The biggest mystery is what they poured into the form?

Hello.
We cut off unnecessary discussions, in amateur conditions the project is not feasible.
I propose to close the topic in order not to lower the level of the forum. The attached photos show that the elements were made in professional forms. Something like this cannot be done in the forms proposed by forum members participating in the discussion. I suggest removing posts that do not add anything to the topic.
Greetings.

Somehow I do not see these "professional forms", at the beginning the plastic is pressed into the clay, in addition, these protrusions are reflected in it, which serve to harmonize the two parts of the mold, there are no specialized tools. The only question is the padding used.

Ryszard49 wrote:

Hello.
We cut off unnecessary discussions, in amateur conditions the project is not feasible.
I propose to close the topic in order not to lower the level of the forum. The attached photos show that the elements were made in professional forms. Something like this cannot be done in the forms proposed by forum members participating in the discussion. I suggest removing posts that do not add anything to the topic.
Greetings.

Friend Ryszard!
I propose to lower the oracle a little DD
The method shown in the photos was made by my six-year-old son DD.
Could the six-year-old be a better specialist than all those taking part in the discussion?
The method is as old as molding is!
Having a detail, we make a form / matrix + stamp / of e.g. silicone; and then pour the complex set with colored chemosetting resin / see a few posts above /. Not only was it shown that it could use a vibrating table, and many other details
Summarizing: it can be done, but don't expect fireworks

Ryszard49 wrote:

... I propose to close the topic in order not to lower the forum level ...

You say, and you have. I close the topic.