VW Touran '07 1.9 TDI BLS 105K - Prophylaxis for the 1.9 TDI BLS engine at 2

Good morning,
As the course is approaching as in the subject and the spectrum of driving a large number of kilometers, I would like to do something on my touranku.
There will be a timing with a water pump, pump injector seals, camshaft bearings and crankshafts.
In this regard, he has several questions:

1. Should something else be added to the list?
2. How much do we turn back the screw on the pumps for this engine model (180 or 225)?
3. At what moment and how many degrees are we tightening the new pump mounting screws?
12Nm and 270 degrees or 14Nm and 90 degrees
The opinions are divided and in total I have my doubts and I would not like to repair the thread.
It is interesting that almost identical M6 screws for pumps with two screws are screwed with a torque of 3Nm then 90 degrees and then 180 degrees (together 270) and for a pump with one screw the manufacturer recommends 12Nm and 270 degrees. The screw is practically the same, the material of the head also and the force different, maybe that's why the threads fall ...?
4. Should the tensioner pin be moved in this model when replacing the timing gear or if it sits firmly and does not move?

Thank you in advance for your answers and comments.

1.BLS, checking the turbocharger for clearances and whether the variable works without jams.
2. I backed 180 and it's ok. The tasks are divided. New screws are known, plus it is worth pulling out the pumps and changing the seals. New valve cover gasket (10Nm we turn diagonally)
3. I have been tightening the pump mounts for 12 years with a torque of 12 Nm 2x90 degrees, I have never had a problem. When tightening 270 degrees, I pulled out the thread once, and after another pump jumped after 10km.
4. Of course, all the pins need to be replaced, from the tensioner and the guide roller, that's why they are included. The old ones, as a result of stresses and forces, can twist or break and this is only 5 minutes of additional work.

Thank you DrDrug.
I will look at turbo as far as my knowledge allows. I am also careful when tightening the pushups, because as you can see there is something to do.
As for the pins, the decision was made - exchange. However, here I have a few questions.
The fact that we screw on the blue loctite is beyond question, but what? It would be more convenient on 248 (17Nm) because it is stick and application more convenient but I see that most people work on 243 (26Nm). This is one thing, the same thing is screwing.
The tensioner pin is glue-free by factory, so we put on loctite and screw in 15Nm (factory), then apply the tensioner and turn 20Nm + 45 degrees. If we turn the nut on the tensioner, then we will not move the pin and thus weaken the loctite bindings, or will the glue set enough to make 15Nm + 17Nm and ensure the stability of the pin?
As for the guide roller pin, here is already the glue applied so as I read in foreign-language forums, we screw in as far as possible without resistance and tighten with a 20Nm nut. I like this on average, but I can't find the tightening moment for the stud itself. Is it given somewhere?