1.8T Golf 4: Identifying & Fixing Leaky Intake Issues, Finding Expert Mechanics & Alternatives

Hello,
such a question is it a standard that there is a problem with the service of 1.8 turbo engines?
It means that I have the impression that for many mechanics the VAG group is only 1.9 tdi.

According to the logs, I have a leak in the inlet, I have been to three sites and in one they say that it must be specialized equipment with a compressor for measuring pressure and they do not have it, in the second that the car is going beautifully, what do I want?
in the third, it was suggested that I should replace the candles, of course, after the replacement, the problem did not disappear.

You can clearly hear the whistle when choking the car from the bottom and it goes above 3500 rpm only, although one mechanic suggested that there is a bar on the turbo and not the steering wheel, so there is a turbo hole, but the logs show that it gets up late.
How am I supposed to approach the subject now? Only ASO remains in such problems?
Well, because the car goes as much, but the computer shows that the required value of, for example, air is not equal to the actual value obtained.
Now suppose there is a hole in the intake, how to fix it? You can't move without connecting the compressor?
Could the limited response to gas also be related to a leaky intake in this engine?
The damn problem is to have such a car repaired and pick it up in 2-3 days and pay it, they will take care of it at all.
Maybe because the car is almost 20 years old.
I am talking about the Golf IV 1.8 turbo from 99.

I would start with whether the flow meter gives a true value and the boost pressure sensor. The second thing is boost pressure without the right value, you won't get the flow. As for the hole in the intake, I would still watch the EGR or sometimes nothing escapes / gets there. In these engines there is often a problem with the chain between the rollers (its life is about 200,000 km) as it is loose croaking and badly affects the engine operation. Especially if you have an engine without phase shifting because the error will not appear.

Start by looking at the pneumothorax to see if it is tight and the DV valve is not letting go

In this engine, unfortunately, I do not have sensor maps, would you have to plug in somewhere I don't know? arrival and then measure.
The flow meter is theoretically ok, and the timing, i.e. this chain is the predecessor changed.
And if sometimes damaged DV does not release the air pressure as in these powerful turbo-gasoline? Here is the whistle of acceleration, but that I have to check.

And in addition to the intake, for example, a wastegate turbine? Is it possible to somehow adjust it yourself?
Or maybe this barbell is standing? Because with me it looks like this:


Maybe spray WD-40 on the whole pear? Is it nonsense?

In my opinion, there are two problems - a leaky inlet + a hanging turbo wastegate valve.
Well, unless the N75 also works badly.

It's just that the car, for example, in second gear up to 3,000, does not go sharp, and after switching to 3rd gear, it suddenly weakens, for example in 5th gear at 3,000 it does not go at all, like naturally aspirated.

Check manually that the bar is moving.

I checked the barbell and it moves, but it is rather light, minimal.
I don't know if it's supposed to be like that? should she walk smoothly and strongly?

If I take the key, I don't know, is it probably 10? flat - then I can pull the bar a bit, will it all go apart and the turbine or the engine will crash?
Due to the different pressure etc?
Obviously not drastically somehow, one turn the bottom and top nut.

You will not find plugs on the turbo valve and the one on the collector and 2 bars. The most common statistic is the turbo and ic connector or a hose

Ok, but do you need a special repair kit for testing the air inlet tightness?
Will it be done somehow by itself from some cans?

For example, I met something like this: (but I don't know where to get it)



and will you immediately hear the escaping air from this pressure or is it worth spraying something else then? e.g. with louis water?

End caps from the toilet, drill pipe and valve from the rim

Ok, without pumping nothing will happen?
For example, pissing a poster and then it puffs and the revolutions start to rise where the crack is?
Although it is with pressure probably the most effective and reliable method.

Think ..... you have pressure in the system, a hose burst that opens outwards as it swells from pressure, where's the poster ?? It is enough to think analytically how it works. 2 end caps, 2 bands, 1 valve and a compressor up to 2 bar. Even one for tires. And a cigarette to smoke the surroundings

Gentlemen, a little change of topic, tightness checked, i.e. me and the site because I did not feel confident Theoretically it's ok, everything is tight.
Maybe the turbo is talking - this type is like that?

What else affects the power? I'm wondering about the wastegate barbell, maybe something wrongly adjusted and too weak?

Or n75? but if the problem with this valve would not be communicated as an error on the computer?

Did you not replace the silencer? In my Skoda 1.9 TDI after replacing the muffler, I noticed a whistle like someone put a whistle in the exhaust.
Initially, I did not know what it was about and did not expect that it could be the fault of the muffler that I recently replaced. I checked all the pipes, disassembled and cleaned the entire turbo, checked turbo geometry, a flawless pear, ETC - in a word, everything as it should be. One day my father-in-law asked him to gasp a little, because the sound seemed to come from the engine compartment. I found by accident that the sound actually comes out of the muffler. I complained to the mechanic in Poland, I complained about the format and it turns out that it is the fault of the silencer, as if the air was collapsing somewhere and I only remembered that I had exchanged it not long ago; P
Only you have this error in the computer and it is puzzling, but following this path, this sensor must somehow detect it, so if he detects an error, either he is hit or somewhere in its vicinity or before - honestly I do not know how he measures it

For me, it is rather the fault of the turbine, because it is supposedly its sound, but in turn there is a lot of dynamic air flow logs for over 200 horses, so this serial equipment will not be able to do it, even if someone fumbled in the controller, also something wrong.

For days now I will be combining with checking the intake tightness according to the instructions from andrzej20001, I found a pipe plug for WC fi 50 pipes in a construction shop and I will try to plug it into the intake hose and blow.
The rest according to the logs is ok also maybe the turbo is whistling slightly from the bottom under load but the intake must be specifically checked.
I did not change the muffler, besides, it cannot be heard at idle, but under load, when the whole thing works and starts blowing.

I wish you good hunting I had the pleasure of the turbo, I was able to unscrew a friend's U and check under the mechanic's magnifying glass what he knows about it. All in all, it was clean and looked new, almost hehe. Show off what you found next

How is the flow high and the pressure low and there is no power. It either lies (but usually lowers) or, more likely, the air escapes before it goes to the cylinders, i.e. a hole between the turbo and the head. The Turbo overpressure under load and then blows a hole.

The whistle at the turbine is a natural thing. With a reduced diameter a bit air-gas flows at supersonic or close to velocity. Check what model of the turbine is given there. See jaie in the datasheet has parameters. How the pressure at the inlet and outlet looks like. If possible, an ordinary pressure gauge is enough to check the overpressure. Clamp into the part of the air duct behind the outlet and you will read your pressure. On the manonometer you will calculate the value of the dynamic pressure.
The SIMPLE method they taught in a mechanical school.

Ok gentlemen, now such a question - I mentioned some of the hoses that were sweaty, but I want to check everything under pressure, will I be able to do it at the petrol station using an automatic electronic compressor?


Or maybe it's better to buy one for PLN 20 for 12V?

Well, because I have to pump the air, and the electronic ones probably sense the pressure and if nothing is, they become stupid?

How to do it? unless the help of some vulcanization worker Well, unfortunately, I do not have such a specific compressor, only a foot pump, but nothing will do it there.


And as for the turbo, it is the usual K03, specifically 06a 145 704 k, boost about 0.5-0.6 bar.
It should blow so much.