Diagnosing SANICO OH15-9G + T Electric Oil Heater: Unrecognized Failure and Partial Heating Issues

Hello, I have a problem with the radiator above.
The heater has not been used for a long time due to an unrecognized failure, I decided to start it up today and check what is wrong with it. After checking all the wires with a test tube, I did not find that there was any problem because the energy supply to the heater, but then the ready lamp did not light, however, when I turned it into the so-called "plumb", so that the fuse guarding whether the heater did not turn over, it turned off its activity, the lamp magically lit up unknown why.
I decided to connect it and check if it will work normally. I figured after a few minutes the heater started to sizzle like a fryer and that bothered me. Another fact that worried me is that the radiator heats up at the bottom only so that it burns when you touch it.
Would anyone have an idea what the reason for the fault is? And what is happening to him anyway?

And would it be possible to install a time trial or so that it would not be active?

It would be useful to check the thermostat if it is not damaged sometimes (you can see it in the third photo) and if there is enough oil in the radiator. As for the time trial, how would you like it to work?

Hmm, how to check if the thermostat is working and if there is the right amount of oil?
As for the time trial, I want to disconnect it completely from the system in the middle, would it be possible? I want to sweep it because it is damaged, there are no two teeth as in the picture and after 24 hours it stops and does not move and you have to twist + it is quite loud and it annoys

The thermostat would have to check with a meter if it has a passage, the oil level will be visible because you unscrew the heater or plug, it should be so much that it does not fill only the last rib when the heater is set with the heater and the plug up, give a photo of this time trial from the back, I'll tell you how to skip it. If you can, show what you meant when you wrote about the sensor that controls the correct positioning of the radiator.

The timer can be bridged, I did it at home because of its rather loud ticking.

You have to give one clear picture of the connections.

Hello.
First of all, you need to have at least a simple meter (ohmmeter, voltmeter), because after years of operation, devices of this type often become carbonated on the contacts, or even slightly deform (contacts inside the switches), which deteriorates the connections. This applies to cubes, connectors, switch, thermostat, etc. To quickly exclude a thermostat failure, connect the ohmmeter leads to its contacts, the meter should show full conductivity, i.e. "0" ohm, otherwise, no connection, check if one of the contacts are not deformed or missing. If it shows any resistance (up to several / ten ohms), the contacts should be gently cleaned with fine sandpaper (grain thickness not greater than 600), spray some liquid, e.g. wd40. If you find that the conductivity is good, with the ohmmeter connected and the thermostat set to minimum, heat the thermostat with a hair dryer until it breaks down, this should be done when the thermostat is in working order. If it doesn't, it is damaged. I had a trivial fault, the switch, and one of its ends, due to heat, "pulled out" over time - it slipped out of the housing about a millimeter, which was the result of the lack of short-circuiting the contacts inside. Sometimes it clicked, but the contact was uncertain, it ranged from a few to a few dozen ohms, unfortunately with such a connection there is no question of the efficient operation of the device. I was tempted to disassemble this switch (because it is old, it would be difficult to find an equivalent without some modification, it is about 30 years old), I returned it to the "factory" condition, cleaned the contacts, and it is nice. attitude to the minimum almost burns the hand.
Best regards.

staszkiewicz wrote:

Would anyone have an idea what the reason for the fault is? And what is happening to him anyway?

Nothing like that, just all the oil has leaked out somewhere. Since the heating element has turned on, all the electrical circuit in the heater is there efficient . Recommendation - top up oil to full condition. Transformer oil can be used.
so @biauy what is this elaborate for?

Not necessarily Krzysiu. I had an identical case. Heater spiral shorted to the housing, at least installation with zeroing. The current closed in the circuit phase - a piece of a spiral - housing - pin in the socket - zero. To make it happier, the thermostat did not turn off because he wanted to break the zero which the stove was no longer using. It sizzled too. Replacing the heater solved the problem.