Error Code 27 in Immergas NIKE STAR 23kW Stove: Circulation Issue, Overheating & Filling Valve

Hello everyone,

I have a problem with the IMMERGAS Nike Star 23 kW stove. The furnace has been operating for several years and there were no problems with it before.
Starting the current heating season, I filled the installation with water to indicate 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge of the furnace. I turned on the gas supply and turned on the power. I set the temperature to 60 degrees. The stove starts, the candle on the display lights up and then you can hear the gurgling of water in the pipes in the stove. The temperature on the display rises rapidly and at about 76 degrees disconnects everything, the display turns orange and error code 27 appears.
After reading the description of this error, it seems to me that the circulation in the furnace is air. The question is whether I recognized it correctly and how to get out of this situation. And one more question at the bottom of the stove is the black installation filling valve. At this point, when I have the right pressure on the pressure gauge, should it be closed or open? There is an arrow to the right on this valve - does it indicate the direction of the valve opening or closing?

Thanks in advance for all your tips and help. I greet arthur

Check the filter under the boiler, it is probably dirty

Filter under the boiler? can i ask for more information. There are no additional filters outside the furnace, or should I look for it inside the furnace?

Take a picture, put it on the forum and ask questions, we don't know what "there" you have installed.
Draining water from the boiler and installation is not a very good idea, especially in such a few years.

Check that the pump rotates, unscrew the silver screw and check that the impeller shaft rotates.

The axis of the impeller did not rotate and the pump heated up very quickly. I unscrewed the silver screw and after a few stronger movements with a screwdriver, I moved the rotor. Now it spins nicely and the furnace has started to work. Thank you very much for help

I also did that, the pump hung up - I unscrewed the gold screw located on the pump's jumper, I moved the impeller with a small screwdriver and it started - PLN 150 forward

I had the same problem yesterday. He was right in my case.

However, I will also share my experience. After reading the info on the forum, I took off the housing, found a silver screw, turned the pump in accordance with the arrow on it, but it did nothing. I called the service first remotely tried to help me. The serviceman asked me to also turn the pump, but in 2 directions a few turns (it was light). He also recommended checking the voltage on the pump - to do this, you need to unscrew one screw on the right side of the pump in black plastic and connect the meter, turn on the central heating and it should show a voltage of ~ 220V. Strange because my meter did not show anything, so the serviceman said that the relay must have failed and the entire board needs to be replaced - PLN 720 gross with the service of Sunday arrival in Łosoł. So he came with a new plate, but first he touched the stove, turned on the heating and ... the stove started working normally. He unscrewed the filter that Zybie is talking about and it was covered in black goo. He said that probably when I turned the pump in 2 directions, the muck could move and the water could flow (although I am surprised that when I checked the voltage on the pump, it was not there). If you want to clean the filter itself, remember to put a bowl under it for water that will start to leak. This can be stopped with a valve under the filter. Generally, 3 liters of water fell before the servicemen turned off the valve. After cleaning, he put the filter back in, pumped up the pressure with a pump to 1.9 bar (in the tank on the right at the top), added water to the installation at 1.2 bar and said that he should romp, and for now he is hula. For cleaning, checking pressures, etc., he collected PLN 150 on Sunday, so the world and people. I recommend it especially since he wanted to help over the phone first - a free service. I think it's not forbidden on the forum - the Warsaw company is called Nestor tel 0604 478 532. It is on the Immergas website as a service.
Hello, I hope my experience helps someone. Especially if it will be like me, which is -17stC at night yesterday.

Companies ,
with which our DEAR CUSTOMER is satisfied, should be praised .
Small people should be excluded from the market knowledge whose aim is to extort and not to help.
best regards

The biggest mistake of Immergas users is to completely disconnect the boiler from the power supply when the heating season is over. Then the pump stagnation protection function is inactive.

So "by the way" so that it wasn't that I was rummaging at the request of the serviceman in the oven. I have some "skiles" that allow me to do this, but keep in mind that everyone plays on their own account.

As for the pump outside the heating period, the fact may stop because, as the serviceman said, the medium that "lubricates" there is - water. Which confirms the above information to grind the pump from time to time also outside the heating period. Fortunately - although unaware of this fact - even in the summer I used to turn on the heating for at least one radiator in the bathroom to have a warm towel after a shower .

Regards.

Most newer boilers have an anti-stall function programmed into the pump. Once a day they move it for several dozen seconds. It is enough to leave the plug in contact for the summer.

best regards

Dear forum users, I have another question. I noticed that from the safety valve (marked in the photo) water drips slightly. 1 drop for about 15 seconds. but it flies. I took off the housing, I see that there is a red knob next to the valve, but as if it wasn't a valve, so I don't know if it can be moved. As a serviceman, he drained some water from the system through a valve unscrewed behind this valve, so the pressure on the pressure gauge dropped (code 10 appeared). He unhooked the pressure gauge and it turned out that the unfastened one shows 0.5 bar, which is his 0 bar. So by adding water, he made a pressure of about 1.7 bar.

Today, when the furnace was running, the pressure increased to 3 bar on the manometer (so in practice it should be 2.5 bar). Now as in the picture I have 2 bars (I drained some water) but still dripping. Can I do something about this valve or do you think it needs to be replaced?

How about the air in the vessel?

I understand that it is the compensating vessel on the right side. On Sunday, when the serviceman was there, he increased the pressure with a pump, so I assume that everything is OK there. Can I test it empirically?

I will add that when I reduced the temp from 70 (I had to warm up a bit more after the failure) to 65, the dripping is with the frequency of a drop every 30 seconds. Better not to touch the valve itself?

You can check with a tire pressure gauge when you drain the water from the boiler. I guess the serviceman drained the water when he was pressing the pressure?

He drained it from 5-6 liters, pumped up the pressure with the pump and added water. In general, the pressure is now 2 bar on the pressure gauge and the dripping frequency has decreased to such an extent that I will spare myself my own interference for now, but thanks for the answer. In the meantime, I installed a tybox 117 thermostat, a cheap and sensational solution. I recommend it because you can do it yourself.

Hello.
I also have a problem with error "27" being displayed
Except that in my case, the problem, in my opinion, lies with the electronics.
At the outset, I would like to add that there was a service technician who inspected the boiler, cleaned it, adjusted it, etc.
He didn't say much about error 27. He suggested replacing the motherboard or pump.
What are the symptoms.
The boiler is controlled by the Immergas DRC room regulator.
When the boiler receives a signal from the regulator that the temperature in the room is too low and the central heating water should be turned on, a strange situation occurs.
Yes, the boiler turns on, but not in the mode of playing CO water, only heating utility water.
This means that the water tap symbol lights up on the boiler display. THE PUMP DOES NOT TURN ON, the gas lights up. Within a dozen or so seconds, the water temperature reaches a very high value, which causes the gas to be turned off and error 27 displayed. The whole operation is repeated every now and then. Of course, when during this heating I turn on the water in the tap, the situation is theoretically under control, because the boiler is in the mode of heating utility water.
My question is. Does the CRD controller give different signals to the boiler regarding the type of heating?
That is, can it send a domestic water heating signal to the boiler instead of central heating?
I think not. I connected the CRD regulator to the boiler about 3 years ago and everything worked fine. I just don't remember if the polarity of the connected wires is important for this regulator?
I don't think so.
Maybe colleagues have some knowledge and idea about the problem I described?
I'm betting it's a motherboard failure, but I could be wrong.

Edit.
I measured everything in the boiler and the external control of the regulator does not matter here. The main culprit is probably the fluxostat
Perhaps it is he who for some reason closes the electric circuit, regardless of whether the wu is "unscrewed" or not?
Has anyone had such a case that the fluxostat closes the circuit by itself, thus turning on the domestic water heating cycle itself?

Approx.
It's been a few days.
I bought a new fluxostat and replaced it. This new one is slightly different from the old one, but the most important dimensions fit.
After replacement, the boiler works properly. I hope I've fixed it already.

The new Nike and Eolo boilers have bithermic exchangers. In summer, when DHW is drawn. after the end of its consumption, the pump is switched on for a few seconds in order to discharge heat to the installation. So if the boiler is working in the summer, the pump will not be blocked. Unless someone is leaving for half a year and the boiler is completely turned off from the power supply, then yes. After all, there is the anti-blocking function of the pump.