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NIVONA Caferomatica 830 Coffee Machine: Damaged Display Repair, AliExpress Replacement

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  • #451 20837133
    111lisu
    Level 16  
    It should - the question is whether it is functional
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  • #453 20918809
    SSnua
    Level 1  
    Vielen Dank an alle.
    Ich habe hier viel Wissen gelernt. Es ist einfach, das Ersatz-OLED von Nivona bei Google zu finden. Ich habe viele Lösungen gefunden, um mein 830-Gerät zu reparieren, aber die Lösung, PCB+OLED selbst zu kaufen, ist es offensichtlich auch viel Ärger.
    Endlich habe ich einen Händler aus Ali gefunden.
    Es handelt sich um ein originales 2,42-Zoll SSD1303 OLED. Ich habe es direkt verlötet und es hat normal funktioniert. Das Display ist sehr schön.
    Abgesehen von der gelben Farbe ist alles andere in Ordnung. Natürlich habe ich dem Händler nicht vorab mitgeteilt, welche Farbe ich haben möchte.
    Hier ist die URL: https://aliexpress.com/item/3256806256163326.html?
  • #454 20953957
    dicofema
    Level 6  

    I have 2000 of these displays in stock. I'm willing to show off 100 pieces for 800 euros.
    Display dark, still partially visible, but dark, tested, checked.
    LG
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  • #455 20990786
    imdudek
    Level 13  

    @dicofema
    Is the topic still relevant? Which display model is this? priv: imdudek(_at_)op.pl
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  • #456 20995794
    plotnikov1995dima
    Level 1  
    >>19211441
    Dear friends, I assembled the board according to your gerber files (1st version large board without cutouts), the image is still reversed. I assembled 2 boards and everything is the same on both boards. I checked everything, changed all the components and put new ones (except 4078bm, I have one). IC3 seems to be not working, if you remove it nothing changes, voltage on VDD and GND is 2.7-2.9V, OLED SSD1305z is white, what could be the problem?

    Added after 1 [hour] 3 [minutes]:

    I managed to start the display correctly, the problem is insufficient voltage, IC3 starts with at least 3V power supply, for me the maximum voltage between VDD and GND is 2.9V (or 2.7V). I took the voltage from the 3rd VBAT pin 5 V and stabilized it to 3.3 V, I applied this voltage to the 2nd VDD pin (+3.3 V), the board started and works properly.
  • #457 21002288
    j4rek
    Level 19  
    I wrote about this once when designing a small board - apparently you have systems that do not work stably with such a power supply. On my small board there is an option to install a stabilizer giving 3V3 with VBAT and switch it with jumpers.
  • #458 21305976
    thomas__1
    Level 23  
    Hello
    I will buy an image reversal board. Contact me on priw.
  • #459 21308872
    zielonkaadam3
    Level 1  
    Does anyone else have a disc to resell?
  • #460 21395582
    b0979639147
    Level 2  
    Привіт всім. Підкажіть, а які самементи потрібно встановлювати на плати? Бажано обох версій. Мене цікавлять в основному конденсатори. Не зовсім розумію, якого розміру та номіналу повинні бути (те що обидва 16 Вольт побачив, а скільки саме ємність, то не розумію в значеннях. 4.7 µF і 100 nF, вірно?) Сьогодні пробував випаяти плату, на якій дисплей закріплений, і пошкодив її. Тепер буду замовляти і плати для повного монтажу. Ніби з усім розібрався, крім конденсаторів і їх розмірів. А, і ще я пошкодив (розплавив) перемички, на яких ця плата була розпаяна (розчіску). Там потрібно шукати якогось особливого розміру? Дякую всім за відповідь.

    Hello everyone. Tell me, what exactly are the elements to be mounted on the boards? Preferably both versions. I am mainly interested in capacitors. I don't quite understand what their size and nominal value should be (I've seen both 16 V, but I don't understand the values. 4.7 µF and 100 nF, right?) Today I tried to desolder the board where the display is mounted and damaged it. I will now order and pay for the whole installation. It seemed to have figured out everything except the capacitors and their sizes. Oh, and I also damaged (melted) the jumpers that this board was soldered to. Do you need to look for any special size there? Thank you all for your replies.
  • #461 21442869
    b0979639147
    Level 2  
    Hello. I ordered and received printed circuit boards. I ordered both the large and small versions because I didn't know which would be better for me. I decided to solder on the large board. I placed everything (all components are completely new, I didn't use the old one as a donor), unsoldered it and the display doesn't work. Maybe it would be convenient to check if I placed everything correctly? Very grateful.

    P.S. I still have large and small boards left, just in case.
    Close-up of a printed circuit board with electronic components. .
    Green printed circuit board with various electronic components.
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  • #462 21473378
    jasperowaale
    Level 1  
    OK I'm in Vietnam and my display is going dark, Nivona 691, Display For NIVONA Caferomatica is it the PCB or just the display? Do anybody who has made a replacement want to make a deal and send it to me?
  • #463 21581720
    minio
    Level 12  
    Experts on the subject and the logic of the converter for ssd1305, please identify the ICs, where is which one located, because I have already made a mistake;)

    NIVONA Caferomatica 830 Coffee Machine: Damaged Display Repair, AliExpress Replacement
  • #464 21624908
    zeto
    Level 12  
    Hello,
    I have assembled a large board to J4rek's design - the inverter circuit that powers the display works - there is 12.2 volts and the display works, however the logic that gives the signal to reverse the mirrored image does not work (or malfunctions) - the display works, the image is unfortunately a mirror image of how it would have been connected on the original board which included the SSD1303.
    PCB labeled NIVONA SSD1305 ADAPTER V1r2 with display connector and electronic components .
    OLED display showing mirrored image and hourglass icon mounted on PCB .
    Has anyone had a similar problem and how did they solve it?
    Also, on this occasion, many thanks to the main mentors of the topic.
    AMIGOS and J4rek - great job in working out the replacement for this express!
  • #465 21624935
    amigos
    Level 16  
    Remember everyone, this is actually @satanistik's project and we others have only given it some shape. It is only thanks to him that the development of the theme and the final solutions came about.
  • #466 21624954
    zeto
    Level 12  
    Thank you for the correction.
    Quite a few pages already have this topic and in reading I apparently misrepresented. :( .
    I thought @satanistik was promoting a solution on programmed memory, while @amigos and @j4rek supported an option on gates (minimalist version, extended version with inverter placed on TPS to replace original board under display).

    Added after 2 [hours] 28 [minutes]: .

    >>21624908 .
    Problem solved.
    Close-up of OLED screen with System nagrzewa się text and hourglass icon .
    I fitted the MCP1700T-330E/TT stabiliser as provided in the miniature version developed by @j4rek.
    I soldered it 2 legs directly to capacitor C9, on which is the V BAT voltage from pin 3, and its output 3.3V kynar to capacitor C1.
    Close-up of PCB with red wire soldered to capacitor C1 .
    Close-up of MCP1700T voltage regulator soldered to C9 capacitor on PCB. .
    At the same time, in order not to change the VDD voltage for the SSD1305 display applied to pins 11,12 and 13 of the display, I cut the path leading to these pins, and wired a voltage directly from pin 2 of the baseboard to these pins, and soldered pin 2 to disconnect the 2.7V voltage from the baseboard from the 3.3V voltage from the additional stabiliser. As I already had the display glued to the board, I could not cut the path running from pin 2 on the other side of the laminate below the display.
    Close-up of SSD1305 screen soldered to green PCB with red wire visible. .
    Close-up of PCB with red wire soldered near DISPLAY label .
  • #467 21626127
    j4rek
    Level 19  
    Hello
    I will try to upload a new version of the large PCB in the near future, so that it includes this 3.3 V stabiliser to power the logic as on the small PCB. As you can see, depending on which chip/part you end up with, some people's logic works on VDD 2.7-2.9 V and others don't.

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Here is the latest revision of the "NIVONA SSD1305 ADAPTER" PCB (V1r3) - a 3.3V stabiliser (U5) has been added to supply the logic (there is also an option to supply from Vdd voltage). If a stabiliser is used, solder points 2+3 on jumper J1. On the logic output signals (D0 and WR) I added series resistors (R5, R6) 1 kΩ.

    View of a PCB labeled NIVONA SSD1305 ADAPTER V1r3 with components and display connector .

    Attached are the gerber files for ordering the pcb.
    Attachments:
  • #468 21627043
    zeto
    Level 12  
    Thank you on behalf of future assemblers, I already have the boards soldered and have done a rework to supply 3.3 V to the logic circuits and the display still has a 2.7 V VDD supply from the express base board (2nd pin).
    Cut the path between the via and capacitor C4 (you can see it faintly in the photo, as I combined the capacitors and soldered C1 to the same solder field where C4 was (they are now together)).
    Close-up of PCB with modified soldering around capacitors C4 and C1 .
    I cut the path at the second via, leaving the connection of the via to the display pins (VDD from the baseboard of the express), and disconnecting C2.
    In addition, I scraped the mask off the path going to the display and the ground field (it's on both sides, so it doesn't matter which side) and soldered a 10 µF capacitor (I just had one) into these 2 new solder fields to stabilise the VDD voltage of the display (the original board also had a capacitor at VDD for the SSD1303).
    Close-up of a PCB with components U2, U3 and modified capacitor C2 with kynar wire .
    The final step was to connect C2 - C4 - the 3.3V output of the stabiliser with a kynar.
    I used the MCP1700T3302E/TT, which I soldered 'surface mounted' to capacitor C9, where the VBAT voltage (5 V) is.
    Modified PCB with kynar wires and relocated capacitors .
    Close-up of PCB with capacitors C9, C10, C11 and MCP1700 with red wire soldered .
  • #469 21630283
    satanistik
    Level 27  
    Cool to see that the project is living its own life. The solution on the memory seems older - it may have appeared in a topic on eevblog where it concerned an Agilent meter. Except that it wasn't public, my idea on gates was developed independently and colleague @amigos helped refine it. Anyway it counts that someone found it useful. The circuits for the 2.7V version have to be CMOS.
  • #470 21630964
    zeto
    Level 12  
    Super that there are such people and such a place :) .
    Displays replaced - me and a friend have a working express again!
    As I have made and run both versions of the boards that @j4rek so beautifully details, I confirm @amigos opinion - the small boards are much simpler to assemble and work without any problems.
    Gentlemen, you have created a Big Three whose work and results I admire while enjoying a delicious coffee.
    By the way, if anyone would need it, I have some tiles - you can contact me privately.
  • #471 21634562
    j4rek
    Level 19  
    Welcome,

    I am additionally posting the pcb panel files for ordering both board versions in one order. The boards can be separated from each other (detachable).
    The newer V2r2 version of the small board (SSD1305 NIVONA V2r2) contains additional series resistors (1kΩ) on the D0 and WR signals.

    Regards

    2D view of NIVONA SSD1305 adapter PCB with two connected versions via perforation .

    Praise from the moderator Felini:

    My compliments for your perseverance, commitment and help. Users from other countries have also benefited from the solutions provided

    .
    Attachments:
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Topic summary

The discussion addresses the issue of a damaged OLED display in the NIVONA Caferomatica 830 coffee machine, with the original replacement cost around PLN 900-1000. Users confirm the original display uses the SSD1303T10 driver and is a 128x64 pixel OLED module with a 31-pin connector, which is now rare and discontinued. Attempts to find direct substitutes on AliExpress or other markets largely failed due to incompatible controllers, pin layouts, or mirrored image outputs. Alternative displays such as BL12864G (yellow OLED) from SOS electronic (Slovakia) and similar models from Japan or Russia have been used successfully but require delicate desoldering and soldering of the 31-pin ribbon cable, a process recommended only for skilled technicians. Some users developed or are developing adapter boards to use newer SSD1305, SSD1309, or SPD0301 controller displays, which have different pinouts and may show mirrored images or missing columns, requiring hardware or firmware adaptations. The community shares detailed disassembly instructions for accessing the display module, emphasizing careful removal of the front panel and soldering challenges. Some users report successful repairs by cleaning pins or replacing capacitors and diodes on the motherboard. The discussion also highlights the scarcity of original or compatible displays, the need for specialized repair skills, and ongoing efforts to create adapters for newer OLED modules to extend the machine's lifespan.
Summary generated by the language model.
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