NIVONA Caferomatica 830 Coffee Machine: Damaged Display Repair, AliExpress Replacement

It should - the question is whether it is functional

źle, usuń!

Vielen Dank an alle.
Ich habe hier viel Wissen gelernt. Es ist einfach, das Ersatz-OLED von Nivona bei Google zu finden. Ich habe viele Lösungen gefunden, um mein 830-Gerät zu reparieren, aber die Lösung, PCB+OLED selbst zu kaufen, ist es offensichtlich auch viel Ärger.
Endlich habe ich einen Händler aus Ali gefunden.
Es handelt sich um ein originales 2,42-Zoll SSD1303 OLED. Ich habe es direkt verlötet und es hat normal funktioniert. Das Display ist sehr schön.
Abgesehen von der gelben Farbe ist alles andere in Ordnung. Natürlich habe ich dem Händler nicht vorab mitgeteilt, welche Farbe ich haben möchte.
Hier ist die URL: https://aliexpress.com/item/3256806256163326.html?

I have 2000 of these displays in stock. I'm willing to show off 100 pieces for 800 euros.
Display dark, still partially visible, but dark, tested, checked.
LG

@dicofema
Is the topic still relevant? Which display model is this? priv: imdudek(_at_)op.pl

>>19211441
Dear friends, I assembled the board according to your gerber files (1st version large board without cutouts), the image is still reversed. I assembled 2 boards and everything is the same on both boards. I checked everything, changed all the components and put new ones (except 4078bm, I have one). IC3 seems to be not working, if you remove it nothing changes, voltage on VDD and GND is 2.7-2.9V, OLED SSD1305z is white, what could be the problem?

Added after 1 [hour] 3 [minutes]:

I managed to start the display correctly, the problem is insufficient voltage, IC3 starts with at least 3V power supply, for me the maximum voltage between VDD and GND is 2.9V (or 2.7V). I took the voltage from the 3rd VBAT pin 5 V and stabilized it to 3.3 V, I applied this voltage to the 2nd VDD pin (+3.3 V), the board started and works properly.

I wrote about this once when designing a small board - apparently you have systems that do not work stably with such a power supply. On my small board there is an option to install a stabilizer giving 3V3 with VBAT and switch it with jumpers.

Hello
I will buy an image reversal board. Contact me on priw.

Does anyone else have a disc to resell?

Привіт всім. Підкажіть, а які самементи потрібно встановлювати на плати? Бажано обох версій. Мене цікавлять в основному конденсатори. Не зовсім розумію, якого розміру та номіналу повинні бути (те що обидва 16 Вольт побачив, а скільки саме ємність, то не розумію в значеннях. 4.7 µF і 100 nF, вірно?) Сьогодні пробував випаяти плату, на якій дисплей закріплений, і пошкодив її. Тепер буду замовляти і плати для повного монтажу. Ніби з усім розібрався, крім конденсаторів і їх розмірів. А, і ще я пошкодив (розплавив) перемички, на яких ця плата була розпаяна (розчіску). Там потрібно шукати якогось особливого розміру? Дякую всім за відповідь.

Hello everyone. Tell me, what exactly are the elements to be mounted on the boards? Preferably both versions. I am mainly interested in capacitors. I don't quite understand what their size and nominal value should be (I've seen both 16 V, but I don't understand the values. 4.7 µF and 100 nF, right?) Today I tried to desolder the board where the display is mounted and damaged it. I will now order and pay for the whole installation. It seemed to have figured out everything except the capacitors and their sizes. Oh, and I also damaged (melted) the jumpers that this board was soldered to. Do you need to look for any special size there? Thank you all for your replies.

Hello. I ordered and received printed circuit boards. I ordered both the large and small versions because I didn't know which would be better for me. I decided to solder on the large board. I placed everything (all components are completely new, I didn't use the old one as a donor), unsoldered it and the display doesn't work. Maybe it would be convenient to check if I placed everything correctly? Very grateful.

P.S. I still have large and small boards left, just in case.
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OK I'm in Vietnam and my display is going dark, Nivona 691, Display For NIVONA Caferomatica is it the PCB or just the display? Do anybody who has made a replacement want to make a deal and send it to me?

Experts on the subject and the logic of the converter for ssd1305, please identify the ICs, where is which one located, because I have already made a mistake;)

Hello,
I have assembled a large board to J4rek's design - the inverter circuit that powers the display works - there is 12.2 volts and the display works, however the logic that gives the signal to reverse the mirrored image does not work (or malfunctions) - the display works, the image is unfortunately a mirror image of how it would have been connected on the original board which included the SSD1303.
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Has anyone had a similar problem and how did they solve it?
Also, on this occasion, many thanks to the main mentors of the topic.
AMIGOS and J4rek - great job in working out the replacement for this express!

Remember everyone, this is actually @satanistik's project and we others have only given it some shape. It is only thanks to him that the development of the theme and the final solutions came about.

Thank you for the correction.
Quite a few pages already have this topic and in reading I apparently misrepresented. .
I thought @satanistik was promoting a solution on programmed memory, while @amigos and @j4rek supported an option on gates (minimalist version, extended version with inverter placed on TPS to replace original board under display).

Added after 2 [hours] 28 [minutes]: .

>>21624908 .
Problem solved.
.
I fitted the MCP1700T-330E/TT stabiliser as provided in the miniature version developed by @j4rek.
I soldered it 2 legs directly to capacitor C9, on which is the V BAT voltage from pin 3, and its output 3.3V kynar to capacitor C1.
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At the same time, in order not to change the VDD voltage for the SSD1305 display applied to pins 11,12 and 13 of the display, I cut the path leading to these pins, and wired a voltage directly from pin 2 of the baseboard to these pins, and soldered pin 2 to disconnect the 2.7V voltage from the baseboard from the 3.3V voltage from the additional stabiliser. As I already had the display glued to the board, I could not cut the path running from pin 2 on the other side of the laminate below the display.
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Hello
I will try to upload a new version of the large PCB in the near future, so that it includes this 3.3 V stabiliser to power the logic as on the small PCB. As you can see, depending on which chip/part you end up with, some people's logic works on VDD 2.7-2.9 V and others don't.

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Here is the latest revision of the "NIVONA SSD1305 ADAPTER" PCB (V1r3) - a 3.3V stabiliser (U5) has been added to supply the logic (there is also an option to supply from Vdd voltage). If a stabiliser is used, solder points 2+3 on jumper J1. On the logic output signals (D0 and WR) I added series resistors (R5, R6) 1 kΩ.

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Attached are the gerber files for ordering the pcb.

Thank you on behalf of future assemblers, I already have the boards soldered and have done a rework to supply 3.3 V to the logic circuits and the display still has a 2.7 V VDD supply from the express base board (2nd pin).
Cut the path between the via and capacitor C4 (you can see it faintly in the photo, as I combined the capacitors and soldered C1 to the same solder field where C4 was (they are now together)).
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I cut the path at the second via, leaving the connection of the via to the display pins (VDD from the baseboard of the express), and disconnecting C2.
In addition, I scraped the mask off the path going to the display and the ground field (it's on both sides, so it doesn't matter which side) and soldered a 10 µF capacitor (I just had one) into these 2 new solder fields to stabilise the VDD voltage of the display (the original board also had a capacitor at VDD for the SSD1303).
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The final step was to connect C2 - C4 - the 3.3V output of the stabiliser with a kynar.
I used the MCP1700T3302E/TT, which I soldered 'surface mounted' to capacitor C9, where the VBAT voltage (5 V) is.
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Cool to see that the project is living its own life. The solution on the memory seems older - it may have appeared in a topic on eevblog where it concerned an Agilent meter. Except that it wasn't public, my idea on gates was developed independently and colleague @amigos helped refine it. Anyway it counts that someone found it useful. The circuits for the 2.7V version have to be CMOS.

Super that there are such people and such a place .
Displays replaced - me and a friend have a working express again!
As I have made and run both versions of the boards that @j4rek so beautifully details, I confirm @amigos opinion - the small boards are much simpler to assemble and work without any problems.
Gentlemen, you have created a Big Three whose work and results I admire while enjoying a delicious coffee.
By the way, if anyone would need it, I have some tiles - you can contact me privately.

Welcome,

I am additionally posting the pcb panel files for ordering both board versions in one order. The boards can be separated from each other (detachable).
The newer V2r2 version of the small board (SSD1305 NIVONA V2r2) contains additional series resistors (1kΩ) on the D0 and WR signals.

Regards

Praise from the moderator Felini:

We appreciate your perseverance, commitment, and support. Users from other countries have also benefited from the solutions presented.

Hi,
first of all, many thanks to all those who contribute to this forum for the purpose of finding a replacement solution for a defective Nivona display, my respect to the developers of the various circuit options and creators of the circuit boards or the free files for ordering from a circuit board manufacturer!

However, I have the problem with ordering from jlcpcb that I can't see the board layout in the viewer after uploading the Gerber file for any of the versions stored here!
The message File successfully uploaded appears, but apparently jlcpcb does not recognise the file correctly because the board dimensions are missing in the product details, for example
etc. and therefore I can't transfer anything to the shopping basket, is there any data missing in the Gerber files?

Has anyone already had this experience, it can't actually be that this phenomenon occurs with all Gerber files uploaded to jlcpcb from this forum, but only the last version of the previous post (#471) from @j4rek "PCB files for ordering both PCB versions in one order" would be important for me.
I also don't know now that the Gerber file Panel_Nivona_V1.zip created by @j4rek contains two different PCBs, shouldn't 2 designs be displayed in the subsequent project details under "PCB specifications > Different design_"?
I have tested this on different PCs with different browsers, always the same error!


I'm a bit of a layman here as this is my first order and the very first project I've ever done involving customised circuits with subsequent production and sourcing of PCBs.

Oh yes, I have not found the value of the resistor R4 (on the TPS 61045) from the large circuit board from @amigos or @j4rek in any of the posts here in the forum, this is only labelled DNP in the circuit diagram, have I overlooked something here?

Greetings from Germany (Bavaria)
Karl

Hi, the resistor R4 is optional and is not to be fitted. Please try to order the pcb from the file in the attachment - jlc is doing some problems lately and detecting different designs in the order, for which it wants more $.

It should look like this after ordering (pcb to be cut and broken off):

Hi j4rek,
does not work with this file either, same problem.

Added after 22 [minutes]:

So, now it works, I registered with JLCBC once, now it works!
Apparently JLCBC does not fully accept Gerber files without an account.


j4rek, sorry for the time spent and thanks for the effort.

>>21805331 >>21805331 Hi @j4rek, thanks for the great file you created and provided. I wanted to ask if the connection for (SSD1305 Nivona V2r2) that you described in the PDF file is correctly understood for assembly. Should I connect everything as in the picture (which you created a few years ago in 3D)? I'll upload your picture. Or should I cut off the pins between uP BOARD (original board) and X1 PB14s (Vr2r)?
Best regards from Germany


Cześć @j4rek, bardzo dziękuję za wspaniały plik, który stworzyłeś i udostępniłeś. Chciałem zapytać, czy połączenie dla (SSD1305 Nivona V2r2), które opisałeś w pliku PDF, jest poprawne do złożenia. Czy powinienem, jak na zdjęciu (które wcześniej stworzyłeś w 3D kilka lat temu), wszystko podłączać? Zdjęcie z tobą załaduję. A może powinienem odciąć piny między uP BOARD (oryginalna płyyta) a X1 PB14s (Vr2r)?

Pozdrawiam serdecznie z Niemiec

Please connect as in this old photo, all pins from the original board must go into the X1 pads of the adapter (SSD1305 Nivona V2r2). The LCD board must get pins 5 and 7 from the adapter board.

Thanks for the quick reply j4rek.
I have assembled the board and then mounted the display in the centre. Now I have a new problem:
As soon as I connect the display, all LEDs of the display light up permanently (all segments are active).
Can you please check whether I have done the wiring correctly or where the problem might lie?


Dziękuję za szybką odpowiedź.
Zmontowałem płytkę, a następnie w środku zamontowałem wyświetlacz. Teraz mam nowy problem:
Gdy podłączam wyświetlacz, wszystkie diody LED na wyświetlaczu świecą się na stałe (wszystkie segmenty są aktywne).
Czy mógłby Pan sprawdzić, czy zrobiłem okablowanie prawidłowo, czy gdzie może leżeć problem?