Samsung WF60F4E0N0W washing machine - The engine does not work - error 3E

Hello.
I am looking for a diagram for the Samsung WF60F4E0N0W washing machine. Yesterday she refused to obey and of course she is after the guarantee.

Symptoms:
1. During washing, she paused the washing twice (the symbols that flashed during washing stopped flashing on the display) - only pressing the start button again stimulated the washing machine to continue washing.
2. At one point, she suddenly drained the water and released error code 3E.

I turned on the diagnostic mode and it took a lot of water, and then as soon as the cycle (spinning the drum) was about to start, it immediately 'crashed' the 3E code. The same with the spin test.

I undressed the washing machine and started looking at the possible causes.
The engine looks fine. There are no signs of burning, etc.
There are a total of 8 wires in the connection block:
- 2 tachos
- 2 brushes
- 2 probably some sensor (thermal?)
- 2nd stator winding

There is a 'transition' between the brushes.
The tacho looks OK, i.e. there is a 'transition' and shows the tension while shooting.
There is a transition between the pins of the stator winding.
The thermal sensor (if it really is a sensor) also shows the transition.

I have accessed the driver board, but visually there are no damaged or blackened parts. Neither capacitor has swollen. If I tried very hard, I could see a slight color change around the 2QR2280Z chip and the LEDs nearby (marked with a red oval in the photo). However, this may be due to contamination and not to 'frying' of these items.

Since it was 1 in the morning, I didn't want to make noise anymore by testing whether the motor turns off without electronics. A diagram of the layout of this washing machine would be very useful - I would not be looking blindly. If anyone could share I'd be grateful.

Best regards,
Grzesiek

What you marked with the large oval is the converter IC. Its failure kills the device completely, and unstable operation causes anomalies in the module's operation. It may be this fault, but it doesn't have to be. What long brushes in the engine? The fact that they are there does not mean that they are functional.

So that would mean my only suspect turned out to be innocent. It might look somewhere in voltage stabilization? Maybe the driver does not get the voltage it should and goes crazy? The brushes are in good condition as shown in the pictures attached.
I connected the engine 'briefly' and it started - the voltage on the tacho showed about 20V (although I did not let the engine swing)

I am still wondering if the thermal protection on the stator is working properly - should it be closed at normal temperature (NC) or on the contrary (NO)? Currently I have a 'transition' on it, maybe I shouldn't.
Any other ideas?

It is normally intended to be compact. I'm running out of ideas.

Gentlemen (and ladies) ... maybe someone has a diagram of this washing machine and could share (?)

Check the wiring from the module to the motor, connections in the motor cube, and the stator winding for leakage.

The reason lies in the so-called "cold solders" on the rear of the executive board, unfortunately you have to cut the window in the plastic box of the base after removing the setting plate with the processor, gently remove the gel filler and solder most of the suspicious soldering points, especially on the motor relays. You do not feel up to the challenge, give it to some electronics specialist. I admit that the window cutout is quite a challenge because you can damage the delicate print and smd elements.

Gentlemen: village and machefi thank you for your suggestions.

Today I took out the entire panel with the controller again and connected it so that while the washing machine was working, I had access to the wires.

To measure what comes out or reaches the driver board.
I switched the washing machine to the diagnostic mode, wanting to check if I can first check if the voltage from the tacho reaches the controller.

And here is the first surprise: the washing machine started to work (that is, to spin the engine) in both the TST and SPN (spin) modes. I tried it several times and everything was OK (by the way, the tacho voltage reaches the controller). I was a bit stupid because I do not know what caused the change - but the joy of life of the washing machine did not last long, because after a few attempts she threw 3E again out of nowhere (sometimes right away, and sometimes it started spinning and after a while 3E) ...

And here is the second surprise - the motor housing can appear between 10 and 80V (depending on what the washing machine is doing at the moment). I discovered it a bit by accident. The voltage against the washing machine's casing, i.e. de facto PE conductor. The fact that the motor does not have direct contact with the washing machine housing (it is mounted on a plastic tank).

To be sure, I took out the engine again and after connecting it for a short time, it worked, but the housing is as above. tension.

Now the question: is it normal for a motor that is galvanically separated from a metal casing, so that there is voltage on its casing, or does it indicate some damage (suggested by wiesiekmisiek winding leakage); I will add that there is no transition between the brushes or the stator windings and the housing. It's just that I measured it with an ordinary multimeter, and for such measurements are some special devices used?

If this is normal then follow the advice machefi I will go towards cold solders. However, if it is abnormal, it means that I have nothing to rummage in the electronics because there is no problem there, only in a broken engine.

irvingus wrote:

Now the question: is it normal for a motor that is galvanically separated with a metal housing, so that there is voltage on its housing?

With an unearthed motor casing it is a normal phenomenon because the motor winding is a certain electric capacity in relation to the stator and thus the motor casing, and then between the metal parts of the motor and the PE conductor there will be a potential difference, measurable with the measuring instrument, and the neon lamp applied to the motor casing will glow. Cut a window in the plastic and look for cold solders. Good engine .

Thanks for the clarification machefi . All that's left for me is to take out the electronics, tear out the silicone and look at the other side of the PCB. I hope so quietly that you won't have to cut out (the windows). At first glance, the board is inserted into a plastic housing and is held on the latches (of course, everything is filled with silicone). It also has a wire connection to the second PCB on the display side. Well, I will try to look at it and see what it ends with.