[Solved] Samsung WF70F5E0W2W Drum Not Moving: Water Collection, Motor & Relay Issues, Brush Replacement

Hello

It starts to collect water, then the engine should start and continue to collect water, but the engine does not start. I checked the brushes, one was more worn, the other less, the one that was less worn was like blocked so I thought that after the case.

I put it together and everything worked for 3 washes, so I decided to replace the brushes, after changing the brushes one wash and again a problem. At the moment when the engine should start, you can hear the relay that it turns on, but the engine does not start.
After several attempts to run the program, everything started working again.
I decided to replace the relays in the driver because in Samsung I often have cases that the relay starts, but there is no contact.
However, I have a problem to match a replacement. Maybe someone will advise me something?

He successfully uses such relays:
https://www.tme.eu/pl/details/g4a-1a-e-12vdc/...azniki-elektromagn-mocy/omron/g4a-1a-e-12vdc/

Thanks ordered.
I don't know why I couldn't find any replacement, I wasn't looking very well.

Hello
Unfortunately, in this case it was not possible to revive the washing machine, still the engine does not spin.
Anyone have any idea?

Check that the brushes touch the commutator well and that the brushes slide in the brush holder. It happens that the brushes hang and therefore you can do only one wash. They move smoothly without any jams.

It falls off, the engine is checked and 100% functional, the brushes are new, the commutator is ground.

An efficient engine is a good check around the triac regulating the revs, there are also cold February.

Which triac is it?

Upload photos of the module because the network is of tragic quality.

h jaworski wrote:

check the area around the Triac regulating the speed well, there are cold February too.

This is exactly what you should do

młody2066 wrote:

Which triac is it?

How is the owner asking where is the triac? As usual on the largest heat sink next to the bridge and you need to get from the bottom of the PCB in a much larger area. So to eliminate very carefully all possible cold February (you need to carefully remove the gel from them with old tin)

Chupacabra wrote:

Upload photos of the module because the network is of tragic quality.

Well now I think you will see more ...

I'm not an electronics engineer and I don't know which one controls the motor.
I try to deal with simpler matters so as not to bother anyone ...
I spent too much time here and I would not want it to be wasted.
So which of the triacs should I check and how to check it?
Thank you for uploading photos.

młody2066 wrote:

I'm not an electronics engineer and I don't know which one controls the motor.

Forgive me, but like a home appliance serviceman (such a description can be found as Specialization: home appliances service ) asks where the engine triac is located? In addition, after I described it in my last post where one was located (what kind of opinion can you have about this fact)? I did not have to check it, and you have already written that you are not an electronics engineer, but how to check it (you know how many times it was written) ...

As I mentioned, I am dealing with simpler faults, I have never gripped triacs, simpler things I mean damaged power supplies, relays, capacitors, resistors.
I have never delved into this topic, you do not need to know everything, I give more difficult matters to an electronics engineer, but due to the gel on the driver, it is not gripped at all.
I admire my friend that you are versatile but all I need is what I know and I thought that this forum is to help.
I understand if I had electronics in my specialization, then your allusions to me would be justified.
And I'm sorry, I haven't read your previous post and it's only because of a lack of time.

You wrote that the washing machine spun the drum for several washes, then not again, then again. This will clean this disc of this gel, and solder it, if not the vast majority. All elements follow paths from the largest triac and even from both on heat sinks. Blast with air when you have a station. It's the simplest we can offer. Just don't overheat SMD components.

I sold out almost the entire plate, all gel-cleaned, a few suspicious capacitors that lacked capacity, I also replaced, relays also replaced.
Tomorrow, if possible, I will start the triac.

It did not give me peace and with warm air I began to solder the plate looking through the magnifying glass and I found a really small micro crack on one triac pipe. Literally almost invisible even under a magnifying glass.
The driver moved.