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[Solved] Samsung WF70F5E0W2W Drum Not Moving: Water Collection, Motor & Relay Issues, Brush Replacement

młody2066 22836 15
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  • #1 17170987
    młody2066
    Level 20  
    Posts: 578
    Help: 34
    Rate: 393
    Hello

    It starts to collect water, then the engine should start and continue to collect water, but the engine does not start. I checked the brushes, one was more worn, the other less, the one that was less worn was like blocked so I thought that after the case.

    I put it together and everything worked for 3 washes, so I decided to replace the brushes, after changing the brushes one wash and again a problem. At the moment when the engine should start, you can hear the relay that it turns on, but the engine does not start.
    After several attempts to run the program, everything started working again.
    I decided to replace the relays in the driver because in Samsung I often have cases that the relay starts, but there is no contact.
    However, I have a problem to match a replacement. Maybe someone will advise me something?
    Samsung WF70F5E0W2W Drum Not Moving: Water Collection, Motor & Relay Issues, Brush Replacement
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  • #3 17172145
    młody2066
    Level 20  
    Posts: 578
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    Thanks ordered.
    I don't know why I couldn't find any replacement, I wasn't looking very well.
  • #4 17177819
    młody2066
    Level 20  
    Posts: 578
    Help: 34
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    Hello
    Unfortunately, in this case it was not possible to revive the washing machine, still the engine does not spin.
    Anyone have any idea?
  • #5 17182219
    Gobro
    Level 31  
    Posts: 1055
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    Check that the brushes touch the commutator well and that the brushes slide in the brush holder. It happens that the brushes hang and therefore you can do only one wash. They move smoothly without any jams.
  • #6 17182258
    młody2066
    Level 20  
    Posts: 578
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    Rate: 393
    It falls off, the engine is checked and 100% functional, the brushes are new, the commutator is ground.
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  • #7 17185550
    h jaworski
    Home appliances specialist  
    Posts: 4786
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    An efficient engine is a good check around the triac regulating the revs, there are also cold February.
  • #8 17185555
    młody2066
    Level 20  
    Posts: 578
    Help: 34
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    Which triac is it?
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  • #9 17185671
    Chupacabra
    Level 33  
    Posts: 1682
    Help: 247
    Rate: 865
    Upload photos of the module because the network is of tragic quality.
  • #10 17185845
    TONI_2003
    Moderator  
    Posts: 15320
    Help: 2187
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    h jaworski wrote:
    check the area around the Triac regulating the speed well, there are cold February too.
    This is exactly what you should do :D
    młody2066 wrote:
    Which triac is it?
    How is the owner asking where is the triac? As usual on the largest heat sink next to the bridge and you need to get from the bottom of the PCB in a much larger area. So to eliminate very carefully all possible cold February (you need to carefully remove the gel from them with old tin) :idea:
    Chupacabra wrote:
    Upload photos of the module because the network is of tragic quality.
    Well now I think you will see more ...
    Samsung WF70F5E0W2W Drum Not Moving: Water Collection, Motor & Relay Issues, Brush Replacement Samsung WF70F5E0W2W Drum Not Moving: Water Collection, Motor & Relay Issues, Brush Replacement
  • #11 17186142
    młody2066
    Level 20  
    Posts: 578
    Help: 34
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    I'm not an electronics engineer and I don't know which one controls the motor.
    I try to deal with simpler matters so as not to bother anyone ...
    I spent too much time here and I would not want it to be wasted.
    So which of the triacs should I check and how to check it?
    Thank you for uploading photos.
  • #12 17186305
    TONI_2003
    Moderator  
    Posts: 15320
    Help: 2187
    Rate: 3798
    młody2066 wrote:
    I'm not an electronics engineer and I don't know which one controls the motor.
    Forgive me, but like a home appliance serviceman (such a description can be found as Specialization: home appliances service ) asks where the engine triac is located? In addition, after I described it in my last post where one was located (what kind of opinion can you have about this fact)? I did not have to check it, and you have already written that you are not an electronics engineer, but how to check it (you know how many times it was written) ...
  • #13 17186365
    młody2066
    Level 20  
    Posts: 578
    Help: 34
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    As I mentioned, I am dealing with simpler faults, I have never gripped triacs, simpler things I mean damaged power supplies, relays, capacitors, resistors.
    I have never delved into this topic, you do not need to know everything, I give more difficult matters to an electronics engineer, but due to the gel on the driver, it is not gripped at all.
    I admire my friend that you are versatile but all I need is what I know and I thought that this forum is to help.
    I understand if I had electronics in my specialization, then your allusions to me would be justified.
    And I'm sorry, I haven't read your previous post and it's only because of a lack of time.
  • Helpful post
    #14 17186634
    Chupacabra
    Level 33  
    Posts: 1682
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    You wrote that the washing machine spun the drum for several washes, then not again, then again. This will clean this disc of this gel, and solder it, if not the vast majority. All elements follow paths from the largest triac and even from both on heat sinks. Blast with air when you have a station. It's the simplest we can offer. Just don't overheat SMD components.
  • #15 17186648
    młody2066
    Level 20  
    Posts: 578
    Help: 34
    Rate: 393
    I sold out almost the entire plate, all gel-cleaned, a few suspicious capacitors that lacked capacity, I also replaced, relays also replaced.
    Tomorrow, if possible, I will start the triac.
  • #16 17201374
    młody2066
    Level 20  
    Posts: 578
    Help: 34
    Rate: 393
    It did not give me peace and with warm air I began to solder the plate looking through the magnifying glass and I found a really small micro crack on one triac pipe. Literally almost invisible even under a magnifying glass.
    The driver moved.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a Samsung WF70F5E0W2W washing machine experiencing issues with the drum not moving and water collection. The user initially replaced worn motor brushes, which temporarily resolved the issue for a few washes. However, the problem recurred, with the motor failing to start despite the relay activating. Suggestions included checking the brushes' contact with the commutator, inspecting the triac regulating the motor speed, and cleaning the circuit board to remove gel buildup. The user eventually discovered a micro crack on a triac, which was repaired, leading to the restoration of functionality.
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FAQ

TL;DR: If your Samsung WF70F5E0W2W fills but won’t spin, 1 micro‑crack on a motor triac lead can stop it; "I found a micro crack on one triac pipe." Reflowing that joint restored operation. This FAQ helps DIYers and techs fix no‑spin after water intake. [Elektroda, młody2066, post #17201374] Why it matters: Targeting the triac area avoids unnecessary motor or board replacements and restores spin reliably.

Quick Facts

Why does my Samsung WF70F5E0W2W fill with water but the drum won’t move?

The control board opens the water valve, you hear a relay click, but the motor never starts. This pattern points to a fault in the motor drive path. It may work again after several attempts, then fail. Brush replacement can provide only brief relief. Relay swapping alone may not cure it. Document these symptoms before opening the module. [Elektroda, młody2066, post #17170987]

Which relay model has worked as a replacement on this board?

Members report success with the Omron G4A‑1A‑E‑12VDC power relay. Match coil voltage, contact form, and pinout before ordering. Inspect soldering around the relay after installation. [Elektroda, hobbysta92, post #17171813]

Where is the motor triac located on the Samsung module?

It’s mounted on the largest heatsink next to the rectifier bridge. "As usual on the largest heat sink next to the bridge." Remove the silicone gel to expose solder joints. Rework a wider area on the bottom side. [Elektroda, TONI_2003, post #17185845]

How do I check and fix cold solder joints around the triac?

  1. Remove the gel from the triac and nearby power parts to fully expose joints.
  2. Inspect under magnification and reflow suspect joints with a hot‑air station or iron.
  3. Clean residues, then test. "Just don’t overheat SMD components." Keep heat focused and brief. [Elektroda, Chupacabra, post #17186634]

Could new brushes still be the problem?

Yes. Brushes can hang in the holders and lose contact, even when new. That can deliver one good wash, then a failure. Ensure each brush slides freely and touches the commutator. Lightly chamfer if needed, and re‑seat. "They move smoothly without any jams." [Elektroda, Gobro, post #17182219]

I already replaced relays and weak capacitors. What finally fixed it?

A hairline crack on one motor triac lead caused intermittent no‑spin. The fix was warm‑air reflow of that joint under magnification. The repair restored the controller’s operation immediately. Use a magnifier to spot such micro‑fractures. [Elektroda, młody2066, post #17201374]

My washer ran 3 cycles, then failed again. What does that indicate?

That stop‑start pattern signals an intermittent contact in the motor drive path. In the thread, it worked for three washes and later after retries. Focus on connections and solder joints rather than replacing the motor again. Reproduce the fault, then inspect under magnification. [Elektroda, młody2066, post #17170987]

Which area should I re-solder if the motor triac is suspect?

Rework the triac, its pads, and the surrounding copper from the PCB’s bottom side. Extend reflow to power traces, the bridge area, and nearby connectors. First, carefully remove the gel to reach all joints. Eliminate every cold joint you find in that region. [Elektroda, TONI_2003, post #17185845]

Can hot‑air rework fix this without removing the entire board?

Yes. One successful repair used warm air with the board accessible, plus magnification to spot a cracked triac lead. Short, controlled heat pulses prevent collateral damage. After reflow, the controller resumed normal operation. Verify by running a rinse/spin cycle. [Elektroda, młody2066, post #17201374]

What controls the motor speed on this model?

The motor speed is regulated by a triac on the control module. Faults here, including cold solder joints, can stop the drum. Check and reflow that area if the motor itself tests good. [Elektroda, h jaworski, post #17185550]

Is replacing relays alone sufficient when the relay clicks but there’s no spin?

Not always. In the thread, relay replacement did not restore motor rotation. The underlying fault was elsewhere on the board. Prioritize solder integrity around power semiconductors and connectors. Only confirm relays after ruling out cold joints. [Elektroda, młody2066, post #17177819]

How do I spot hairline cracks that are almost invisible?

Work under a strong light with a magnifier and gently probe each lead. Cracks can be nearly invisible unless the joint flexes. Target the triac legs and other heat‑stressed parts. Reflow any suspect joint, then retest. [Elektroda, młody2066, post #17201374]

Should I upload module photos when asking for help?

Yes. Clear, high‑resolution photos of both sides help experts locate the triac and problem areas. Blurry images slow diagnosis. Share wide shots and close‑ups of the heatsink region and power components. [Elektroda, Chupacabra, post #17185671]
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