[Solved] Mondeo MK4 2.0 DURATEC - Power failure in the starter relay control circuit

Hello - I have a Mondeo mk4 2008 2.0 Duratec with a POWER / START button

Everything was ok, I got on, fired, drove 60 km, and could not start. No response to pressing the start button. The lights do not dim. The computer did not throw any errors. When pressing POWER, only the two relays are clicking, one audible from the trunk part and the other in the front, but not the R1 from the starter but probably the R2 of the engine control unit. I tried 30 times until the starter caught the car and started. after a few km I went out and again there was no reaction to the start. I connected cables to another car and fired from the arrow - I thought the AKU to be replaced - I bought a new premium Ca / Ca class I put in the car and still no reaction the car does not turn

I found the reason in part but I need further professional help. Starter like new brushes and new coil. Checked cables: main from the starter to the battery - functional, and controlling from the small screw of the starter coil also to the battery itself passing through the relay (main circuit) and 40A fuse. Installation to OK.

FAULT AGAINST ME .... bad ground connection to the relay or incomplete connection (short-circuiting, e.g., wiping or tarnishing) of the plus lead with voltage drop to the relay. I don't have a schematic, I don't know where the control circuit wires come from, where the engine controller is mounted ....

I checked that the relay circuit switching on the relay is not working. As if I turn the ignition on, on the small pins of the control circuit in the relay socket appears "weak" 12V, but after inserting the relay does not start it. The car does not start ... I connect the battery under the rectifier for an hour I enter the car and start from the first. I will go 10km and you will not react to START again. Loading battery OK. Further to the ignition switch, the cables have not been checked

Does anyone know from which module or computer the signal goes to the relay after the ignition switch and where is it located ?? And how to lift / remove the box with fuses and relays to see which wire goes to which relay?

leoleoleoleo wrote:

Like when I turn the ignition on, on the small pins of the control circuit in the relay socket appears "weak" 12V, but after inserting the relay does not start it

Buddy, check if there is mass or 12V, and it is important.
Secondly, short the pins in the relay socket and see if it fires every time.

Thirdly, insert 2 wires into the socket together with the relay and measure if the signal voltage does not disappear after inserting the relay.

I tried to measure with a meter and I have unclear results ... I will try tomorrow with a light bulb. According to this scheme, can the photo be read where it should be correctly connected plus and where minus - 1 or 2 because in my opinion indifferent.

from what I previously measured the samum meter (but I will confirm and measure it again tomorrow) on pin 5 I have all the time +12, on pin 3 I have a minus (in the sense when the plus cable of the meter I touched to + on the AKU and the second to 3 I had 12V ... very strange because in my opinion it should also be + after switching on the control circuit unless the meter catches a false mass), on pin 1 I have a permanent minus and on pin 2 there is nothing and here should probably appear +12 after pressing POWER

I will confirm it tomorrow, but it looks 95%

And as for the connection of pins 3 and 5, it is probably safer to remove the relay housing and manually connect with the stick the jumper and see if it will fire but at 100% it will fire

After switching on the ignition on pin 1 should be +12 and for 2 the mass from the controller

And you don't have the U1900 error in the meter?

There are no errors. There is one that cannot be deleted but applies to the GPS antenna. For 3 days I have a VIAKEN STN1170 connector because I thought that it would help me solve the problem but unfortunately there were a few errors but they don't appear after deleting. I wrote them down as a precaution, but they did not apply to startup

I have no information on where the control circuit wires, i.e. 1 and 2, go to the relay. I also do not know how to remove / lift the fuse box feed to suspect the wires and their connection in the sockets. For this, maybe it was enough to clean the mass of the relay wire, maybe it would solve the problem, but I don't know which wire it is, and too many of them come out of the box to guess.

=== ACM DTC B119F: 11-2F ===
Code: B119F - GPS antenna

Additional fault symptoms:
- Short circuit to ground

Status:
- DTC present at the time the command was issued
- The fault indicator is off in the DTC

The weight to the relay goes from the engine control unit. You can check the driver plugins for patina.
You did not write if you connected a light bulb with the relay and checked whether it is sure the control or the relay is faulty.

Just my mistake with using only the meter. The second measurement with a meter so quickly before work shows a constant plus on pin 3 and the control circuit after switching on the ignition does not show anything on any of pins 1 and 2. Tomorrow I will make a light bulb for testing and try to borrow an endoscopic camera to see the color of the wire in the fuse box as I still can't get it and look for it in the driver plug and I will ask purely theoretically because I haven't looked yet. .. Where is the engine driver I remember that somewhere in some version mondeo was behind the left front wheel arch in the bumper but in mk4 I haven't seen it yet and I wasn't looking and it can be hard to find how many stuffed modules there are

I have a new relay and I connect another interchangeably and also the same

I was surprised that the weight goes from the controller

Is there a plus for the control circuit or also from the controller or from another module, relay or straight from the ignition?

I have a support question because I took a vacation to look for a problem in the car. If I unplug the battery, can I disconnect and clean everything in the sense of a plug-in sensor driver modules, etc. so as not to delete / reset anything? Mainly I mean the fuse box under the hood, plugs with wires and I would like to remove and clean the plugs from the engine control unit.

I would like to lift the part marked with a yellow frame but I unlock the locks around and the element will not move ...

Ok the end of the farce, let the electrician take care of it.

After the relay is turned on manually, the car fires without problem on pin 2 by measuring the meter, a swinging current of +11.6 appears, +10 then disconnected the ignition automatically during the measurement, switching the ignition on again and measuring on pin 2 appeared +3 and disconnected. Measuring the weight, they also turned the ignition off automatically. Measuring the voltage between pins 1 and 2 I have 0 V. But at the beginning after a long stop I got into the car and started the car 10 times and turned it off without problems, then the next time the relay contacts stopped switching.

I still lack the information on where the + is coming from the relay because I do not have any pattern

Added after 5 [hours] 5 [minutes]:

Well, so far I stand in place ... weights all improved but the control circuit is still not functional. Slowly, I give up the only thing I would see plugs of the engine driver, but also that the driver may be all right if he gives weight to the relay because I lose the plus + on the relay. For information, the controller is in a closed white box under the wheel arch on the washer reservoir. Anyone have a diagram where the relay goes from +?

I have already exhausted the possibilities and the car is still grounded ...
Today I got into the ECU, I purged and interrupted the CONTACT with plugs and sockets, I got under the relay board, I checked the cables and everything was fine

what I did in addition to the above was:

I checked the cables from the battery to the main screw of the starter and the wire to the solenoid through the fuse to the relay. I replaced the battery for a new one, cleaned the masses on the frame and the box-frame connection, checked the clutch sensor, checked the POWER button, connected the VIAKEN and read the errors - no errors, I checked all fuses and relays by pulling and connecting to another power source, I also cleaned the clamps find the RFA module responsible for FORD POWER but I could not.

What else could I do before I lead to the site .....

Mondeo still grounded. I deduced that the plus on the pin 1 of the relay disappears, i.e. the one after the ignition switch from connector 15 whatever it means (30 solid plus, 15 after
ignition). I don't know how the wires run physically and how to get to the ignition harness. There are two more cubes along the way on the diagram. How I want to measure
voltage at pin 1 connecting the meter between relay contact 1 and ground when the ignition is on, I have 0.02V and when I press the button on the connected in this way
multimeter, it immediately disconnects my ignition (relay removed).
I found in the net a little helpful diagram but I do not know yet physically where the wires from pin 1 to the ignition switch

Is the problem resolved? Because I have the same situation.

I also have the same problem, but with the 2.0 tdci engine. It is a pity that the author of the topic did not share the solution to the problem ...

Hello, I have the same problem, the driver does not give weight to the yellow cable on the starter relay, as I gave additional mass, the starter was spinning with the fordpower button, I am not sure if the driver fell down. If someone had a problem, please do the trick.

banan4277 wrote:

Hello, I have the same problem, the driver does not give weight to the yellow cable on the starter relay, as I gave additional mass, the starter was spinning with the fordpower button, I am not sure if the driver fell down. If someone had a problem, please do the trick.

That's right! The problem with me was the lack of weight on the starter relay. Checking if the relay is not difficult because next to it there are several the same and they can be replaced, and the problem was caught with the meter when trying to start the car. At the moment I have a loose weight from the relay to the ground of the battery.

Amidal wrote:

The problem with me was the lack of weight on the starter relay

This mass you are talking about is a complicated cable. It goes straight from the computer and the computer to give mass for this yellow cable, many conditions must be met.

For me, unfortunately, I gave up and gave to an electromechanic - he kept the car a month even had to download the specification typically from my car from the service to find the reasons. He came and repaired but did not want to say what he had contributed. From what I marked on the plastic cables, etc., where he looked it was definitely behind the passenger side rug and exchanged one relay under the hood. In other places my "selections" remained intact.

elo mondeo 1.8 tdci the same problem
solution ; ignition switch
located under the steering wheel opposite the ignition
remove the cover and the cube will be gray
60 PLN and registration fee.