[Solved] VW Passat B5FL 1.6 - It goes out while driving, then turns and does not start

Volkswagen Passat B5FL sedan
Born in 2002
1.6 74kW engine

Hello.
The problem has been around for 3 months, no spec could locate the problem so I brainstorm on the forum.
The car has a problem with starting after a standstill (from 30 minutes to 1.5 hours, variously). When I return to the car after this time, the starter is spinning but the engine does not surprise. After withdrawing the key or several attempts, or after waiting a few minutes, it fires up and continues.
It also happens that it goes out while driving (also only after 30 minutes to 1.5 hours) - I'm driving, gas in the floor, and suddenly the car behaves as if I did not press the gas pedal at all. The revs drop as if I let the car run (and it is also on gear) to zero, the car goes out and I stand. Then I try to fire again and the situation is similar - I do not want to fire, or it will fire after withdrawing the key or waiting a few minutes, there is no rule, it happens differently.
The problem only happens when driving or trying to start AFTER STANDSTILL FROM 30 MIN TO 1.5H, WHEN I TRY TO GO OR START AT ENGINE TEMPERATURE OK, 60-70 ST ON CLOCKS. When it is very cold or very warm, there is no problem.

What was replaced?
1) Crankshaft position sensor - first on DELPHI, then on the original BOSCH - no improvement.
2) Fuel filter.
3) Fuel pump cartridge.
4) Air filter
5) Relays that seemed suspicious (electrician replaced).
6) 2 relays at the computer (I do not know what, unfortunately)

I am asking for help because there is really no support from anyone, everyone is spreading their hands. Some still suggest an immobilizer or a coil, or some kind of cable that doesn't connect.
What else to check, what could be the cause?
I'm counting on help, the car goes out in 4 months.

Best regards!

I'll be guessing: the ignition cube.
You have to take measurements as it turns and does not fire.

I also had an ignition switch and immo. Replacing the bcb ignition coils 1 .6 16v.
Check neglected combed exhaust system if there is no leakage between the manifold and the muffler.
For me it helped, the mechnik kescze calibrated me by the way, now some riders
It is worth taking care of these motors because they do 400kkm and ride and this novelty is eee ....
Diagnostics will come in handy.
Surely the ignitions on the cylinders are falling out of what you write.
And how does EVP and Egr look at Cb,

Thank you for your response.
UPDATE: today I discovered that when I do not want to start, the fuel pump does not turn on when turning the ignition key. You cannot hear her, it only starts when the engine is spinning and refuses to start. When I wait a few minutes and turn on the ignition again, the pump sounds and fires from the arrow. What could it be?

Check the pump relay. If it does not fire, if you give a bridge, it will fire instead of a relay.

It is possible that Immo cuts off the ignition, that is, giving fuel.
Gauge, weak battery etc.
Poor contact on the ignition switch should be so you turn the key and turn on the pump and the rest of the electrics from the spine when the motor stops buzzing, it is ready to work if the contactor is blocked, it is characteristic to tick.
Turn the buzzer to the ignition position and let it sit for 10 seconds.
And so a few times until you hear how the pump motor works.
Then turn the ignition on when it fires, it will burn.
When you fire up, do not press the acceleration lever because the throttle must set itself automatically. If you move, it can misinterpret fuel and air doses.
As soon as it fires, check the condition of the ignition coils.
See if the vacuum hose between the brake servo and throttle valves is tightly connected.
Before starting, unscrew the plug from the oil in the engine for a while then close it tightly. And only then fire up.

If it does nothing, then diagnostics and what shows what errors.

Today I have time, I will try to check the car.
kindlar - am I able to do it myself, being a layman in the subject of electrics? If so, I would ask for some tips on how to do it, and if not, I will try to find someone I know.

The two thick contacts in the relay are the contacts from the pump. When you connect them with a cable, the pump should respond.

I understand. I'll try later and let you know what's going on. Do I have to do the whole thing when the car won't start or at any time?

When it goes off to see if it's a pump relay.

When it refuses to start, I make a quick shot with the key and I hear both the fuel pump working and the click of the pump relay. So it looks like these aren't the things that are causing the stall and firing problem. Today, during one drive, it went out 3 times, usually when accelerating on a three or four. It goes out, as I said, not right away, but I just lose the ability to pedal the gas, the car does not react to it at all, I wave it as I want and nothing, the speed slowly drops to 0 and that's it.

-check the operation of the fuel pump
-check that the ignition does not fall out
-check the throttles: wrong vacuum, wrong control
Overall, what are the errors on the obd?

Check that the second key is the same symptom when firing.

ZERO errors. Thread. The second key is the same, it doesn't matter if you replace the key.

- servo pump tubing and throttle
- coils and candles
- Lambda probe
-and maybe the map was raining
Delete errors when you start and turn off whatever appears?
Eventually he could bash the ECU. If there is no error.
You can check them one by one and wait for exchanges.
Fuel lines or injectors could also get stuffed.

Errors zero, erase, fire up, drive, absolutely nothing appears. Suspect ECU, most parts replaced or checked. I am replacing the coil because I have a new one in stock, and I will be watching. If not, you must hit the ECU.

I don't want to bother you, but the problem was finally solved after six months. The culprit of all the confusion was probably the camshaft position sensor and the cable touching the collector.