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Passat b5fl 1.9 tdi avf: Difficulty Starting After Prolonged Inactivity Despite Fuel Changes

bocian21aa 16425 12
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  • #1 16875787
    bocian21aa
    Level 7  
    Hello, I have a problem with firing after a long break, e.g. after a night or after 10 hours at work. Generally, I had problems before, but I changed the filter and replaced all the fuel lugs plus bands and the problem resolved for some time. For several weeks he would fire normally a few days later, I had to take a few or several seconds to get it wrong. I will add that it was for a small amount of fuel and after refueling it began to smoke normally for less than a week until today when I had to shoot it in the morning for so long that it was almost dead. He lit only a cake from the arrow, even on almost uncharged battery and everything was already ok. After 10 hours at work again the problem lit without a cake but barely. I will add that I now have 3/4 tank somewhere in the tank.

    I thought that it could be the fault of the pump in the tank that once works, so when I returned home I listened and always turned on for about 2-3 seconds. So I pulled out the heater and drained off as much fuel as possible, i.e. to the filter and at the first attempts to switch on the ignition with 5 or 7 times in the filter nothing came and the pump was heard.

    I started to rummage before the filter after the filter into the bottle and in my opinion the pressure is not too big as the amount of fuel fed each time the ignition is switched on. But after a few attempts, I made everything and then the first time I completed the filter until the fuel was thrown out through the hole from the heater. The pressure on the eye was also different but I noticed that after connecting directly to the pump under the trunk as if the pressure was higher. Is it possible that the pump is run up and does not make the right pressure?

    I do not want to buy shelves in the dark tomorrow I will have a pressure gauge and check the pressure, I just wanted to know what exactly should be the pressure at the filter because one is writing with 0.5 bar, the other with about 1 bar and I don't know. And how much fuel should be more or less such a pump with one ignition on

    At the end I will add that, except for this firing, nothing more is wrong with it, as it fires, I can immediately put it out and fires from the arrow, it accelerates well, and everything is ok, only the first firing after a stop. This morning, for example, lit almost well I had to turn maybe 2-3 seconds
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  • #2 16877029
    Staszek49
    Level 35  
    Buddy, look at the pump supply, maybe the connectors (pins) are tarnished. Check what voltage is actually reaching this pump. Maybe you have a leak in the connection of the fuel hoses, but it's best to remove the pump and assess its efficiency. There is no dirt in the fuel tank and the filter is not "killed". You say something is wrong with fueling the engine, so maybe it goes back to the tank and you should think about a check valve, for example.
  • #3 16877199
    bocian21aa
    Level 7  
    I changed the pump in Baku today with a different one and it makes definitely better pressure than mine. We'll see how it will be now but it will be the fastest tomorrow as it stands overnight. I have a non-return valve just before the fuel filter. I just wonder what controls the length of the pump because it works somewhere max 3 seconds and it seems to me that it doesn't work any longer. And I don't know if her work is controlled by ECU or just some time relay. I used to have a bmw e46 2.0 diesel and it pumped there a lot longer on a cold one than on a warm one but here pump-injection and there was a regular pump here can also be like this but maybe someone will tell me for sure. Because at this time it does not inflate too much, from what I read it has a capacity of 80 l / h, that is, it pumps about 60 ml for 3 seconds, which is not too much, so I wonder if it should be that it works so short.
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  • #4 16877348
    Pawel wawa
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    He works long enough. They have all B5's there, it is controlled by the engine ECU. There are no timers.
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  • #5 16877368
    bocian21aa
    Level 7  
    Well, we'll see if now how better pressure does it will fire. If not, I will only have a vacum pump in the head to check and if it will be ok, I have no ideas
  • #6 16882885
    bocian21aa
    Level 7  
    Well, maybe it's better, but today I had to turn it on for a few seconds yesterday morning it was ok and in the afternoon after 3 hours of parking it did not smoke, somehow it had to turn for 3-4 seconds until it got it. I don't know now. Strange that one day is ok and the other day is not. Maybe someone has an idea what could be the reason? Rather unlikely that vacum once worked and not once, or that the fuel once backed up and once not ..
  • #7 16882918
    zaczo
    Level 11  
    I also have 1.9 tdi and similarly - a powerful battery, it turns, but it does not start immediately. Candles. Yes, always in winter for 7 years. This is probably such a malfunction of this engine, I have the impression as if the fuel was not feeding enough.
  • #8 16882928
    bocian21aa
    Level 7  
    And sometimes you smoke well and sometimes bad or always bad?
  • #9 16882935
    zaczo
    Level 11  
    The shorter the stop, the faster it smokes. Somehow I did not notice that it was better once and worse. I refueled at various stations and fuel also has no effect. I changed the oil to 5W, but I also don't remember any significant difference, and after a few months the oil began to decrease, so I returned to 10 W.

    Added after 2 [minutes]:

    I start - left on the clutch, right brake and some gas. It seems to help - after a long break. After a short hour, two smokes immediately and without it.

    Added after 6 [minutes]:

    Oh, and wait for the candles to warm up, i.e. how the candle indicator goes out. Some people write to wait for the candles to "pop" - as if it is always longer than the indicator is lit. I don't see the difference anyway.
  • #10 16882961
    bocian21aa
    Level 7  
    I always wait until the relay from the candles breaks, sometimes even gives ignition. And for me it is just like a few days before, even a week or two smokes well half a turn of the engine literally and then one day, two, five different is the problem and again good. The temperature is rather irrelevant because now in the morning more or less always the same from -1 to +4
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  • #11 16883080
    zaczo
    Level 11  
    Well, so I do not have checkered. For example, it seems to me that it burns best after one candle warming immediately after the indicator light goes out. Let me know how I progress.
  • #12 16883188
    bocian21aa
    Level 7  
    After work, before firing, I remove the heater from the filter and see if it will be full. But the valve just before the filter also the pump would have to have a leak and remove fuel from the filter or the filter itself but was installed a new one about 3 weeks ago. And yes, I have no ideas where to look and what else I can check
  • #13 16886018
    bocian21aa
    Level 7  
    Well, nothing helped further the lottery once smokes from the arrow once after a few seconds and sometimes you can spin until the battery falls and does not catch only the pitch lights. After firing, everything is still ok and then burns to touch.
    I don't have ideas anymore .. The filter is full yesterday I checked the candles again and whether the electricity came and everything ok. I ran out of ideas if it was always because I stop, I still understand it, but for example in the morning today without a problem after 9 hours of parking fires from the arrow and after work after 11 hours after a few minutes of mending did not fire from the cake

    The problem was finally solved, it turned out that the vacum liquid gently from under the lid from below and it was enough to get aerated. I exchanged for a Bosch golf 5 from 2008 and I have been smoking for a week without any problems, I think it will be ok.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a Volkswagen Passat B5FL 1.9 TDI AVF experiencing difficulty starting after prolonged inactivity, despite recent fuel system maintenance including filter and fuel line replacements. The user reports intermittent starting issues, with the engine sometimes requiring several seconds of cranking before firing. Suggestions include checking the fuel pump's efficiency, inspecting connectors for tarnishing, and ensuring there are no leaks in the fuel system. The user replaced the fuel pump, which improved pressure, but starting issues persisted. Other users shared similar experiences, attributing the problem to potential fuel delivery issues, glow plug performance, and the behavior of the engine control unit (ECU) in managing the fuel pump operation. Ultimately, the user resolved the issue by replacing a vacuum component that was causing air to enter the fuel system, leading to consistent starting performance.
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FAQ

TL;DR: If your Passat B5 FL 1.9 TDI AVF is hard to start after sitting, check for an air leak at the vacuum pump cover; one owner confirmed a fix and logged 1 week of flawless starts after replacing it—“The problem was finally solved.” [Elektroda, bocian21aa, post #16886018]

Why it matters: This targets the most likely culprit fast, saving time and parts for owners asking “how do I fix cold-start issues after parking?” It’s for VW B5.5 1.9 TDI AVF drivers chasing intermittent long-crank starts.

Quick Facts

What’s the most common thread-proven cause of long cranking after the car sits?

An air leak at the vacuum pump cover. It lets the fuel system aerate during long stands. Replacing the pump (Bosch Golf 5 unit) resolved intermittent long cranks, with a full week of clean starts reported. Inspect for seepage under the pump cover and replace the unit or gasket if leaking. [Elektroda, bocian21aa, post #16886018]

How long should the in-tank pump run at key-on, and who controls it?

On the B5, the pump primes briefly at key-on and that duration is ECU-controlled. There’s no separate time relay involved. As one expert notes, “He works long enough… It is controlled by the engine ECU. There are no timers.” [Elektroda, Pawel wawa, post #16877348]

What fuel flow should I expect during priming?

A reported spec is about 80 L/h. That equals roughly 60–65 ml during a 3‑second prime cycle. Small volume per cycle is normal; multiple key-on cycles can help purge air after service. If flow looks far lower, check the pickup, lines, and filter head for restrictions. [Elektroda, bocian21aa, post #16877199]

Could electrical issues at the in-tank pump cause intermittent starts?

Yes. Tarnished connectors or voltage drop at the pump can reduce delivery and extend cranking. Verify supply voltage and inspect pins. If wiring is fine, bench-check the pump’s efficiency and examine for tank debris. Add a check valve only after confirming the root cause. [Elektroda, Staszek49, post #16877029]

Does a check (non-return) valve before the filter help?

A check valve can reduce drain-back, but it won’t mask air leaks. Use it only after verifying hoses, fittings, and the vacuum pump are tight and dry. If the system still drains, find and fix the leak rather than stacking valves. [Elektroda, Staszek49, post #16877029]

How do I quickly test for overnight air ingress or drain-back?

  1. Before first start, pull the filter’s thermostatic tee/heater and verify the filter is brim-full.
  2. If low, key-on a few times, observe refill behavior, and watch for bubbles in the supply line.
  3. Track back from filter to tank; any drop indicates upstream leakage or siphoning. Use clear hose temporarily for visibility. [Elektroda, bocian21aa, post #16883188]

I replaced the in-tank pump but the issue persists. What next?

Inspect the vacuum pump on the cylinder head for seepage at the cover. A minor leak can aerate the fuel path and cause long cranks after parking. Replacing the pump cured the issue in this case and kept starts instant for a week. [Elektroda, bocian21aa, post #16886018]

Do glow plugs or ambient temperature explain the random behavior?

Glow time helps cold starts, but inconsistent long cranks pointed here to fuel aeration, not plugs. One owner saw little difference waiting longer after the indicator. Short stops started quickly, long stands were slower, suggesting fuel system hold-up, not heaters. [Elektroda, zaczo, post #16882935]

Is slow starting in winter normal for the 1.9 TDI?

Some owners report longer cranking in winter despite strong batteries. However, random good/bad starts after similar temperatures indicate a fault, not normal. Chase fuel hold-up and air leaks first, then confirm glow operation. [Elektroda, zaczo, post #16882918]

What if it cranks until the battery is flat and still won’t fire?

That edge case appeared before the fix. It pointed to significant aeration or loss of prime rather than weak glow plugs. After sealing the vacuum pump issue, starts returned to instant. Address leaks before stressing the starter and battery. [Elektroda, bocian21aa, post #16886018]

How much fuel does the pump move per key-on cycle?

Using the reported 80 L/h figure, expect roughly 60–65 ml in about 3 seconds. That small shot is enough for priming but may not refill a drained filter in one go. Cycle the key several times after filter changes to purge air. [Elektroda, bocian21aa, post #16877199]

Does fuel level in the tank influence the symptom?

Low fuel aggravated starting for one owner, but refueling only helped briefly. The lasting fix came from eliminating a vacuum pump leak, not from fuel level changes. Don’t rely on keeping the tank fuller to mask an underlying fault. [Elektroda, bocian21aa, post #16875787]

Should I suspect the filter or thermostatic tee if it’s new?

A new, full filter ruled out restriction here, yet the problem persisted. That directs attention upstream and to the vacuum pump cover. Always confirm the filter is full before first start, then hunt for leaks if cranking remains long. [Elektroda, bocian21aa, post #16886018]

What is a vacuum pump on PD (unit‑injector) TDIs, and how can it affect starts?

It’s a cam-driven pump that supplies vacuum for brakes and actuators. A cover seep can admit air, upsetting fuel hold-up and causing long cranks after parking. Replacing the leaking unit restored instant starts in this case. [Elektroda, bocian21aa, post #16886018]
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