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[Solved] Mercedes w220 - Airmatic does not leave no errors, it is impossible to calibrate

viper1989 31608 19
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Why does a Mercedes W220 Airmatic show out-of-range level sensors, refuse to lower on command, and fail calibration even though the compressor builds pressure and no fault codes appear?

If the system clicks but will not lower, the root cause can be an intermittent wiring fault to the Airmatic valve block/controller, and in this case fixing broken conductors on pins 14 and 44 finally cleared the errors and restored normal operation [#17419643] Before that, the likely checks were corrosion in the Airmatic controller plug and pins [#17172583][#17172711], and whether the valve block above the compressor was actually venting pressure when commanded [#17173247] Since both front and rear would not drop, the pressure relief/release valve in the compressor or the valve block itself was also considered, along with the control wire, plug, and harness [#17187988][#17189093] Replacing the valve strip/module did not solve it, which pointed away from the valve assembly itself and toward the wiring problem [#17185692][#17419643]
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  • #1 17172283
    viper1989
    Level 10  
    Posts: 208
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    Hello
    W220.175
    s500 rear axle stands like a goat and the front as it should be, cannot be calibrated because it shows that leveling sensors are out of range. According to SD they should be between 2.0-3.0v. I have:
    left front 1.48v.
    right front 3.41v (although both wheels are at the same level 41mm)
    and rear axle 0.48v.
    the compressor blows well 14.4 bar, sealed system but does not want to lower and does not operate the lowering command, although when commanding you can hear the ticking of valve opening but nothing happens.
    can anyone know the reason? greetings
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  • #2 17172583
    fructon
    Level 33  
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    If it doesn't respond to commands from sd, take a look if there is no greenery in the airmatic controller.
  • #3 17172711
    viper1989
    Level 10  
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    clean on pins, plug also.
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    • Mercedes w220 - Airmatic does not leave no errors, it is impossible to calibrate 20180417_132932.jpg (1.04 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
    • Mercedes w220 - Airmatic does not leave no errors, it is impossible to calibrate 20180417_132948.jpg (1.35 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #4 17173247
    fructon
    Level 33  
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    It is possible that something is wrong with the valve assembly above the compressor, since you can hear their work during control from sd, you can check if they physically release pressure from the system.
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  • #5 17173926
    viper1989
    Level 10  
    Posts: 208
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    I think so too, but I haven't picked up there yet, I see it is next to the wheel, so maybe it's drunk or muddy. Above me, demolition of the bumper, etc. When giving the command for each wheel lowering, you can hear the scuffing but nothing more happens ... once I managed to do calibration by throwing 200kg of weight into the boot with level sensors obtained values between 2-3v but of course it was calibrated to wrong parameters and not quite it was also satisfying but no longer stood like a "goat". In total, I risked damage to the bellows ...
  • #6 17174028
    mario 77
    Level 23  
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    Any mistakes thrown out? It is possible that the rear wheel valves in the valve block on the compressor are not tight and still holds pressure on the rear shock absorbers but
    viper1989 wrote:
    it was calibrated on the wrong parameters and it wasn't quite satisfying but it didn't stand like a "goat"

    It did not stand like a "goat" because you loaded the trunk or changed after this calibration (no load already)
    viper1989 wrote:
    Above me, bumper dismantling, etc.

    Just remove the wheel arch.
  • #7 17174171
    viper1989
    Level 10  
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    changed, he sat down enough and as normal it looked, but I began to test the compressor and valves and later I raised it again with the risk that it would not go down and, however, did not go down. Earlier I did the valve assembly in Gls 450 and the symptoms were different, it did not get up at all and it came through the wheel arch. No errors, the only one for now is that the calibration failed.
    As far as the valve assembly can be cleaned, do you need a second one?
  • #8 17176888
    viper1989
    Level 10  
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    I got to the slat and it looks more or less like that.
    It seems to me that something could fall asleep and does not let out a breath. Today I have raised my front and he has not left too. What do you think? errors still only from calibration.
    Attachments:
    • Mercedes w220 - Airmatic does not leave no errors, it is impossible to calibrate 20180419_124202.jpg (3.97 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #9 17176967
    daw2
    Level 18  
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    The lath fell down. Once I was given this, I was converting a strip into individual valves. It's always easier and cheaper to change one wheel instead of a set.
  • #10 17176973
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
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    If the valve clicks and the bellows does not leave, the conclusion logically comes to itself
  • #11 17176982
    daw2
    Level 18  
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    These valves just get blurred so they don't even click
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  • #12 17177085
    viper1989
    Level 10  
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    Do you have any photo or patent for converting these valves to single ones? normally for some 6 tecalans? greetings
  • #13 17185692
    viper1989
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    edit:
    Gentlemen, I replaced the valve strip for a second and it is the same raises the suspension but does not respond to lowering at all, in the strip ticks and does not go down ...
    Could he sell me a babola for PLN 450?
  • #14 17187988
    mario 77
    Level 23  
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    You wrote that when you give commands you can hear the valves but it doesn't leave. Is the same with the front? If it does not leave either the back or the front then the problem may be the pressure relief valve in the compressor. You can still try to unscrew the pipe from the valve block (the one that is not in line with the rest of the pipes) and try to lower. Generally, if it stands too high, it should be a height sensor, a bleed valve or a valve bar.
  • #15 17188596
    viper1989
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    https://www.justanswer.com/mercedes/2ujr8-2001-s500-rear-suspension-high-soon.html
    I found something like this, before there was such an error before cleaning up the driver errors.
    I bet on 99% that it is a bleed valve in the compressor. It cleans up, exchanges? there is some repair kit in the link but in Mercedes is not available ...
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  • #16 17189093
    mario 77
    Level 23  
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    There is nothing to bet, you just have to check. The basic thing is whether the valve works. You can give him power and control the ground and you will hear if he walks. You can also unscrew the cable I wrote to you above. The reason can also be a bundle or pins in the plug. It should then crash "reliefe valve" or "release valve" error, but check it anyway.
  • #17 17206325
    viper1989
    Level 10  
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    welcome back
    the valve removed looks as it looks but works. The spring solenoid hides nicely every time. Do you know what the tension should be in the tie that leads to it? for me when the engine is on it shows nothing or the jumps are on 9.0v
    bundle or kaput module?
    Attachments:
    • Mercedes w220 - Airmatic does not leave no errors, it is impossible to calibrate 20180506_131452.jpg (3.71 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #18 17216272
    viper1989
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    any suggestions?
  • #19 17216564
    nicram1941
    Level 18  
    Posts: 232
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    If you have a part number, you can check on the net how much volt I need (in 24v trucks and around 0.2A), I bet it must be 12V and around 0.4A. Check the harness with the bulb and output directly from the controller. I always leave the driver at the end ...
  • #20 17419643
    viper1989
    Level 10  
    Posts: 208
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    Gentlemen ...
    I replaced the valve strip, module also.
    but all this was not needed.
    Valve functional for a short time, works, I put on a clogged compressor inside. Everything makes no sense.
    The one who wrote that the strip would save shame ... Only the biggest cost went through it.
    I did the test in SD and the valve did not respond.
    according to the diagram, the connection with airmatic to the valve is pins 14 and 44.
    checked the passage with a multimeter, it was at times.
    I corrected the bundle in individual breaks and the matter was resolved. The car got zero errors.
    Best regards and thank you
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around issues with the Airmatic suspension system in a Mercedes W220 S500, specifically regarding calibration failures and abnormal height levels. The user reports that the rear axle is excessively high while the front is at the correct level, with voltage readings from the leveling sensors indicating they are out of range. Various suggestions are made, including checking for corrosion in the Airmatic controller, inspecting the valve assembly for pressure release issues, and ensuring the proper functioning of the compressor and valves. The user attempts calibration with added weight but only achieves temporary improvement. Ultimately, after replacing the valve strip and module, the problem is traced to a clogged compressor, which was resolved by correcting wiring issues, leading to zero errors in the system.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 0 errors after repairing the relief‑valve harness on pins 14/44—"The car got zero errors." If your W220 raises but won’t lower with no codes, check wiring from the Airmatic module to the compressor valve first. [Elektroda, viper1989, post #17419643]

Why it matters: It helps W220 owners fix "won’t lower" Airmatic issues without wasting money on unnecessary parts.

Quick Facts

Why does my Mercedes W220 Airmatic raise but won’t lower, with no errors?

If both front and rear ignore SD lowering, suspect the compressor relief (bleed) valve or the valve block. Check height sensor signals next. "Generally, if it stands too high, it should be a height sensor, a bleed valve or a valve bar." [Elektroda, mario 77, post #17187988]

How do I test the compressor relief (bleed) valve on a W220?

Power the solenoid directly to confirm it actuates. "You can give him power and control the ground." For a flow check, loosen the pipe on the valve block that isn’t in line with the others, then command a lower in SD and see if it vents. [Elektroda, mario 77, post #17189093]

What are normal Airmatic height sensor voltages on the W220?

Star Diagnosis targets about 2.0–3.0 V per sensor. The case showed 1.48 V and 0.48 V on two sensors, which blocked calibration. Bring each sensor into range before attempting calibration. [Elektroda, viper1989, post #17172283]

Can a valve block click and still not lower the car?

Yes. Clicking only proves the coil energizes, not that air flows. If it clicks and the bellows won’t drop, suspect a stuck spool or blocked vent path in the block or compressor relief valve. [Elektroda, andrzej20001, post #17176973]

Do failed Airmatic valves always click when actuated?

No. "These valves just get blurred so they don't even click." Silence can indicate a seized spool or an open‑circuit coil. Replace or rebuild as needed. [Elektroda, daw2, post #17176982]

Where is the W220 Airmatic valve block and how do I access it?

It’s accessible through the wheel‑arch area. Remove the wheel‑arch liner to reach it. "Just remove the wheel arch." Bumper removal is unnecessary for service. [Elektroda, mario 77, post #17174028]

My valve block was replaced, but it still won’t lower. What next?

Stop chasing parts. In this case, replacing the valve block and module changed nothing. Focus on the compressor relief valve and wiring continuity to it from the Airmatic control module. [Elektroda, viper1989, post #17185692]

How do I check for wiring faults to the relief valve?

Measure continuity from the Airmatic module to the valve while flexing the harness. "According to the diagram, the connection… is pins 14 and 44." Repair broken sections; this resolved the issue and cleared all errors in the case. [Elektroda, viper1989, post #17419643]

Quick 3‑step: how do I diagnose a W220 that won’t lower?

  1. Command lowering with SD and listen if front and rear valves actuate.
  2. Loosen the non‑inline pipe on the valve block and try to lower.
  3. If still high, suspect the height sensor, bleed (relief) valve, or valve block. [Elektroda, mario 77, post #17187988]

Does a strong compressor guarantee the car will lower?

No. One case showed ~14.4 bar compressor pressure and still no lowering. Lowering requires the vent path to open via the relief/bleed control, independent of stored pressure. [Elektroda, viper1989, post #17172283]

Is adding weight to the trunk a safe way to force calibration?

Avoid it. The owner added about 200 kg to bring sensor voltages into range, but calibration stored wrong parameters and risked the bellows. Fix signals and venting first, then calibrate. [Elektroda, viper1989, post #17173926]

I measure 0–9 V at the relief‑valve connector. What does that suggest?

Intermittent or low voltage at the valve points to a harness or control issue. Investigate the loom and connector integrity before condemning the module or compressor. [Elektroda, viper1989, post #17206325]

Should I check the Airmatic control module for corrosion?

Yes. Inspect the controller and plug for corrosion (“greenery”). Clean contacts and verify the connector seals before deeper parts replacement. Corrosion can block control signals. [Elektroda, fructon, post #17172583]

What tools should I use to test the harness and valve control?

Use a test lamp/bulb to load‑test the harness and check output directly at the controller. Typical relief valves are 12 V solenoids; confirm supply and ground under command before blaming the module. "I always leave the driver at the end." [Elektroda, nicram1941, post #17216564]
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