logo elektroda
logo elektroda
X
logo elektroda
Advanced Search
logo elektroda

[Solved] Restoring Old Tenement House Floor: OSB Boards, Joists, and Leveling Tips for DIY Renovation

BelethBeny 29220 13
ADVERTISEMENT
Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
Report a violation of the law
| New topic
  • #1 17198442
    BelethBeny
    Level 11  
    Hello

    If this forum is not, please delete this section immediately. ;-) I apologize for the problem.

    I would need to advise on the equation of "arranging" OSB floors, my mother has a flat with old boards on the floor, I don't want to play renovation, etc. because they are already too damaged. I was advised to fix the boards on them and in such a way make a "new" floor on which boards, tiles, etc. would eventually go.


    A question for you, do you make joists? Do you just screw these boards on old boards? (But then what about the level?) Any advice ?? All help will be welcomed, I want to somehow unburden my mother financially, I'm not a total moron when it comes to "repairs".
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #2 17198479
    helazbyś
    Level 17  
    I will step under the topic. In my apartment, the old floor creaks. How do I fix it? Will placing e.g. OSB on it silence it? Place the boards directly on the boards or give a sponge?
  • Helpful post
    #3 17198512
    zimny8
    Level 33  
    BelethBeny wrote:
    I was advised to fix the boards on them and in such a way make a "new" floor on which boards, tiles, etc. would eventually go.

    If evenly, you can immediately put the panels on the sponge, apart from the OSB.
  • #4 17198550
    rys57
    Moderator  
    BelethBeny wrote:
    All help will be welcomed, I want to somehow unburden my mother financially, I'm not a total moron when it comes to "repairs"

    Technical support may not be but think about it. I saw the floor made of boards in an old tenement house, the boards were renovated in an amateur style. From the owner's account: the top layer was ground solidly, the cavities were filled with ready-made fillers adapted to the type of wood and the current color, for this varnish (at that time they were chemically cured). The result - something beautiful and unique.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #5 17198569
    keseszel
    Level 26  
    Boards better, but require more renovation work.
    It's easy - a sponge and a Swedish floor, a gap between the walls and skirting boards, you probably know.
    Check the level - you may have to cut the door.
  • #6 17198576
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
    It depends on what level differences are on the boards.
  • #7 17198860
    saskia
    Level 39  
    helazbyś wrote:
    I will step under the topic. In my apartment, the old floor creaks. How do I fix it? Will placing e.g. OSB on it silence it? Place the boards directly on the boards or give a sponge?

    The boards themselves will not sound anything, squeaking is rubbing boards against each other and with nails that are loose.
    The basis for avoiding squeaking is to hammer nails at an angle of less than 60 °, or use screws.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #8 17198883
    BelethBeny
    Level 11  
    In general, I was in favor of leaving the old boards on top, unfortunately, but in places they are in a condition that is not suitable for it, I will finish them off to prevent creaking, which is not really the case.

    As of today, it will look like today I'm going to tear down one of the partition walls, there will be one large room 3.30m, I would align with OSB boards, I will put the wall again and hey with the rest.

    zimny8 wrote:
    If evenly, you can immediately put the panels on the sponge, apart from the OSB.
    - will nothing happen? The floor is gentle with places.


    Slabs are a cost, if you can avoid it, gladly .... if I am today after demolition, I will add a photo, it may somehow help, a tenement house from 1880.
  • Helpful post
    #9 17198899
    keseszel
    Level 26  
    A sponge alone may not be enough. You need to measure the level - board, string and waserwaga. Otherwise, you will get a curvature that will irritate in the future.
    I say this from personal experience. The small curvature I left at "the cost" later turned out to be a nightmare.
    Driving nails at an angle or screwdrivers - I would also consider.
    I write based on my own experience, you will do as you think.
    In general, I assume that such patches are more time consuming than putting something back on.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #10 17198925
    saskia
    Level 39  
    BelethBeny wrote:
    In general, I was in favor of leaving the old boards on top, unfortunately, but in places they are in a condition that is not suitable for it, I will finish them off to prevent creaking, which is not really the case.

    Today's look, it will look like today I'm going to tear down one of the partition walls, there will be one large room 3.30m, I would level the OSB boards, I will put the wall again and hey with the rest.

    zimny8 wrote:
    If evenly, you can immediately put the panels on the sponge, apart from the OSB.
    - will nothing happen? The floor is gentle with places.


    Slabs are a cost, if you can avoid it willingly .... if I am today after demolition I will add a photo, maybe it will help, tenement house in 1880.


    Old boards cleaned with a wire brush or other hard look nice, and the resulting grooves on the jars filled with varnish or resin to make it easier to wash or sweep.
  • Helpful post
    #11 17199200
    zimny8
    Level 33  
    What does it mean that the floor works a bit? I understand that it is nailed on joists, so the boards only bend. Check the spacing between joists, you'll learn by the rows of nails.
    If it is more than 0.8m, it would have to be reinforced, if not the same position of the panels, although they seem thin, should be enough, because even such already distribute the weight.
  • #12 17199407
    BelethBeny
    Level 11  
    zimny8 wrote:
    What does it mean that the floor works a bit? I understand that it is nailed on joists, so the boards only bend. Check the spacing between joists, you'll learn by the rows of nails.
    If it is more than 0.8m, it would have to be reinforced, if not the same position of the panels, although they seem thin, should be enough, because even such already distribute the weight.


    In places it moves in places of nails driven in. Nailed on joists but nailed probably in 1880 and so to this day, the previous owner did nothing completely Restoring Old Tenement House Floor: OSB Boards, Joists, and Leveling Tips for DIY Renovation Restoring Old Tenement House Floor: OSB Boards, Joists, and Leveling Tips for DIY Renovation Restoring Old Tenement House Floor: OSB Boards, Joists, and Leveling Tips for DIY Renovation Restoring Old Tenement House Floor: OSB Boards, Joists, and Leveling Tips for DIY Renovation .

    that's how it looks today
  • #13 17199611
    DecoDominik
    Level 14  
    Hello.

    There are special screws for refurbishing such a floor.

    Restoring Old Tenement House Floor: OSB Boards, Joists, and Leveling Tips for DIY Renovation




    Added after 6 [minutes]:

    A nice program.


  • #14 17204844
    BelethBeny
    Level 11  
    It stays with OSB, I unscrew the current floor in those most "movable" places, where it bends, I drill holes and fill them with low-pressure foam. At this soundproofing sponge, although I am still thinking about it and OSB boards screwed with long thick screws. You can keep your fingers crossed :-P

    Thank you for any advice ;-) !!!
| New topic
Report a violation of the law

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around restoring old tenement house floors using OSB (Oriented Strand Board) and addressing issues related to creaking and leveling. Users share experiences and advice on whether to place OSB directly over existing damaged boards or to use joists for better support. Recommendations include using screws instead of nails to minimize squeaking, ensuring proper leveling with tools like a string and level, and considering the condition of the existing boards before proceeding. Some participants suggest reinforcing the floor by filling gaps with low-pressure foam and using specialized screws for refurbishing. The importance of measuring joist spacing and addressing any significant level differences is emphasized to avoid future complications.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: Fix squeaks first: drive nails at less than 60° or "use screws"; then level and add OSB or just underlay depending on flatness. This DIY FAQ helps restore old tenement plank floors, decide on joists vs. OSB, and avoid noise or height issues. [Elektroda, saskia, post #17198860]

Why it matters: A stable, level base prevents creaks, cracked tiles, and costly do-overs for budget DIY renovations.

Quick Facts

  • Typical structural OSB for flooring: OSB/3 in 18 mm thickness; density ≈ 600–700 kg/m³ for load-bearing use. [EGGER OSB 3 Technical Data Sheet]
  • Fastener schedule: 150 mm at panel edges and 300 mm in the field; leave ~3 mm expansion gap between OSB panels. [APA Engineered Wood Construction Guide]
  • Floating laminate: leave approx. 10 mm expansion gap at walls and fixed objects; correct subfloor issues before install. [Pergo Laminate Installation Essentials Guide]
  • Acoustic underlay: premium products reduce impact sound by up to 19 dB ΔLw; they do not cure structural squeaks. [Quick-Step Silent Walk Underlay]
  • Tile over wood: meet L/360 (ceramic) or L/720 (stone) deflection and use a decoupling membrane such as DITRA. [Schluter DITRA Installation Handbook]

How do I stop a creaky old plank floor before laying panels?

Fix squeaks before adding layers. Squeaks come from boards rubbing and loose nails. Drive nails at under 60°, or replace them with screws into joists. Add screws wherever a board crosses a joist. Set heads slightly below flush to remove friction points. “The basis for avoiding squeaking is to hammer nails at an angle of less than 60°, or use screws.” [Elektroda, saskia, post #17198860]

Should I lay OSB over the old boards or just underlay and panels?

If the floor is flat and solid, you can lay panels on an underlay without OSB. If it’s uneven or springy, add OSB to stiffen and level first. As one expert put it, “If evenly, you can immediately put the panels on the sponge.” [Elektroda, zimny8, post #17198512]

Do I need new joists, or can I screw OSB to existing boards?

Usually you can screw OSB through the boards into existing joists. Find joists by the nail rows. If joist spacing exceeds about 0.8 m, reinforce before sheathing. Otherwise, OSB helps distribute loads across the floor. [Elektroda, zimny8, post #17199200]

How do I level a wavy plank floor with OSB (3 steps)?

  1. Refasten loose planks to joists to eliminate movement.
  2. Plane high spots and use shims or tapered strips at low joists to create a plane.
  3. Lay OSB/3, leave ~3 mm panel gaps, and fasten 150 mm on edges and 300 mm in the field. [APA Engineered Wood Construction Guide]

What OSB thickness should I use over old boards?

Use structural OSB/3. Typical refurbishment thickness is 18 mm, which balances stiffness and added height. Approximate mass is 11–12 kg/m² for 18 mm, useful when planning handling and load. Ensure panels are conditioned and dry before fastening. [EGGER OSB 3 Technical Data Sheet]

Will an acoustic underlay stop creaks and noise?

Underlay reduces impact noise and smooths minor texture. It does not fix structural squeaks or bounce. Fix loose boards and flatten the subfloor first, then install underlay and flooring with proper expansion gaps. [Pergo Laminate Installation Essentials Guide]

Can I tile over OSB or planks in a tenement?

Yes, with prep. Meet deflection L/360 (ceramic) or L/720 (stone). Install a decoupling membrane such as Schluter-DITRA over OSB, then tile with the specified thin-set. Without proper stiffness and decoupling, expect cracked grout or tile. [Schluter DITRA Installation Handbook]

Is injecting low-expansion foam under boards a good idea?

No. Canned foams are not load-bearing and can expand, lifting boards or creating humps. Manufacturers state these products are for gap-filling and insulation, not structural support. Use mechanical fastening and shimming instead. [Great Stuff Pro Gaps & Cracks Technical Data Sheet]

How do I find joists under old planks?

Look for rows of nail heads; they typically mark where planks meet joists. Probe beside nails to confirm. Use these lines to place screws when refastening boards or fixing OSB. [Elektroda, zimny8, post #17199200]

What screw pattern and type should I use for OSB over planks?

Use wood or flooring screws long enough to penetrate joists. Fasten panels every 150 mm along edges and 300 mm in the field. Leave ~3 mm gaps between panels and avoid overdriving heads. [APA Engineered Wood Construction Guide]

Do I need an expansion gap at walls with floating floors?

Yes. Leave about a 10 mm gap around the perimeter and fixed objects. Maintain flatness and fix subfloor issues first. Cover the gap with skirting or trim after installation. [Pergo Laminate Installation Essentials Guide]

Will adding OSB raise my floor and force me to cut doors?

OSB adds height, and the finished floor may bind at doors. Check clearances before installing. “Check the level – you may have to cut the door.” Plan transitions at thresholds to avoid trip edges. [Elektroda, keseszel, post #17198569]

Is refinishing the original boards worth it instead of covering them?

Yes, if the boards are sound. Sand the surface, fill cavities with wood filler matched to species and color, and apply a durable varnish. Results can be unique and beautiful when done carefully. [Elektroda, rys57, post #17198550]

My floor “works a bit.” Is that normal, and what should I do?

Old plank floors can flex between joists. Identify joist spacing via nail rows. If spans are excessive (~0.8 m), add support. Otherwise, refasten boards and add panels to distribute weight and reduce deflection. [Elektroda, zimny8, post #17199200]
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT