Hello, I have a question how to attach such boards, I add an attachment. It's about a plank partition wall, just how best to fix them. Thank you for your help

It depends on what conditions. As from scratch, for example, at the bottom for two carpentry pins, and at the top, from the top, to the suspended ceiling frame.

But it is exactly when I put the pegs in, I will not fit the board unless there are 10cm gaps from the top and bottom Added after 5 [hours] 25 [minutes]: Can anyone help?

There are no miracles, that's why @ Tommy82 clearly indicated that like from scratch, i.e. there is no ceiling and you can operate the board. However, in the conditions existing as in the picture, it is not possible to simply make an invisible fastening. Unless you use some pins on the springs, e.g. magnetically retractable. But a skin for a layette does not pay off.

It is not possible from the top, it needs directly from the floor to the ceiling, more I meant maybe there are some mounting pins that are first attached to the floor and ceiling and then the boards are put on them

Place two 30x30mm or 40x40mm stainless steel angles on the floor. The angles will be fixed to the floor and between the angles you will insert the boards. You can fix the boards by drilling holes in the angles and using stainless steel countersunk screws made of stainless steel. .

I don't mean some angles at the top and bottom, I know how to do it, it's about the same effect as in the photo.

The photo shows as if there was a small gap between the plank and the floor next to the floor. Perhaps it is mounted on supports (I do not know, I do not remember the name of such fastening) which are attached to the bottom of the boards and then tweak these supports with a key so that the board rests against the ceiling and stands steadily. As you can see in the photo, there is enough space between the floor and the board to insert the spinning key. (I used a fragment of the photo contained in the topic)

Exactly, I also associate something like this with such a support mount and I am looking only for how to track it: p maybe someone had something to do with something like that.

The perfect place for any dirt to accumulate. It looks nice only in the photo, but you will curse it with your life, I mean someone who decides to do something like that ..

It can look nice in the photo and in reality, for example, mounted with a jig. If you make a nice cap, you can hardly see it.

Board Partition Wall: Best Techniques to Attach Boards (Plank Wall)

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#1 18165396 13 Sep 2019 00:25

169kondi 169kondi

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Post #1
18165396 13 Sep 2019 00:25

Hello, I have a question how to attach such boards, I add an attachment. It's about a plank partition wall, just how best to fix them. Thank you for your help
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#2 18165428 13 Sep 2019 01:33

Tommy82 Tommy82

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Post #2
18165428 13 Sep 2019 01:33

It depends on what conditions.
As from scratch, for example, at the bottom for two carpentry pins, and at the top, from the top, to the suspended ceiling frame.
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#3 18165665 13 Sep 2019 15:34

169kondi 169kondi

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Post #3
18165665 13 Sep 2019 15:34

But it is exactly when I put the pegs in, I will not fit the board unless there are 10cm gaps from the top and bottom

Added after 5 [hours] 25 [minutes]:

Can anyone help?
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#4 18166302 13 Sep 2019 17:39

retrofood retrofood

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Post #4
18166302 13 Sep 2019 17:39

169kondi wrote:
But it is exactly when I put the pegs in, I will not fit the board unless there are 10cm gaps from the top and bottom

There are no miracles, that's why @ Tommy82 clearly indicated that "like from scratch", i.e. there is no ceiling and you can operate the board. However, in the conditions existing as in the picture, it is not possible to simply make an invisible fastening. Unless you use some pins on the springs, e.g. magnetically retractable. But a skin for a layette does not pay off.
#5 18166330 13 Sep 2019 18:06

169kondi 169kondi

Level 4

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Post #5
18166330 13 Sep 2019 18:06

It is not possible from the top, it needs directly from the floor to the ceiling, more I meant maybe there are some mounting pins that are first attached to the floor and ceiling and then the boards are put on them
#6 18166612 13 Sep 2019 21:02

kierbedz4 kierbedz4

Level 36

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Post #6
18166612 13 Sep 2019 21:02

Place two 30x30mm or 40x40mm stainless steel angles on the floor. The angles will be fixed to the floor and between the angles you will insert the boards. You can fix the boards by drilling holes in the angles and using stainless steel countersunk screws made of stainless steel. .
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#7 18167146 14 Sep 2019 09:48

169kondi 169kondi

Level 4

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Post #7
18167146 14 Sep 2019 09:48

I don't mean some angles at the top and bottom, I know how to do it, it's about the same effect as in the photo.
#8 18167307 14 Sep 2019 11:56

wojtek1234321 wojtek1234321

Level 36

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Post #8
18167307 14 Sep 2019 11:56

The photo shows as if there was a small gap between the plank and the floor next to the floor. Perhaps it is mounted on supports (I do not know, I do not remember the name of such fastening) which are attached to the bottom of the boards and then "tweak" these "supports" with a key so that the board rests against the ceiling and stands steadily. As you can see in the photo, there is enough space between the floor and the board to insert the "spinning" key.

(I used a fragment of the photo contained in the topic)
#9 18167389 14 Sep 2019 13:09

169kondi 169kondi

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Post #9
18167389 14 Sep 2019 13:09

Exactly, I also associate something like this with such a support mount and I am looking only for how to track it: p maybe someone had something to do with something like that.
#10 18169024 15 Sep 2019 15:43

retrofood retrofood

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Post #10
18169024 15 Sep 2019 15:43

wojtek1234321 wrote:
The photo shows as if there was a small gap between the plank and the floor next to the floor.
The perfect place for any dirt to accumulate. It looks nice only in the photo, but you will curse it with your life, I mean someone who decides to do something like that ..
#11 18169178 15 Sep 2019 17:17

ladamaniac ladamaniac

Level 40

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Post #11
18169178 15 Sep 2019 17:17

It can look nice in the photo and in reality, for example, mounted with a jig. If you make a nice cap, you can hardly see it.
#12 18194973 30 Sep 2019 20:51

169kondi 169kondi

Level 4

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Post #12
18194973 30 Sep 2019 20:51

Anyone else have any ideas, maybe some pegs or something similar
#13 18200428 03 Oct 2019 21:38

retrofood retrofood

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Post #13
18200428 03 Oct 2019 21:38

169kondi wrote:
Anyone else has any ideas, maybe some pegs or something similar

You can use the dowels, but at the cost of creating an irremovable gap. There are no miracles.
#14 18200546 03 Oct 2019 22:17

zworys zworys

Level 39

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Post #14
18200546 03 Oct 2019 22:17

The same effect as in the photo is given by properly matched plastic pads similar to those used in furniture, but then these boards have to be wedged from above. These are not typical boards, because "clean" wood works and ordinary boards, depending on the humidity, would loosen or bend with the same degree of wedging.
These profiles are so thick that you can easily fit a plastic pin with a matching foot inside and wedge it on the other side (the less visible one), then masking the hole for the wedge.
#15 18200598 03 Oct 2019 22:41

wojtek1234321 wojtek1234321

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Post #15
18200598 03 Oct 2019 22:41

Here's a good assembly idea:

ladamaniac wrote:
mounted circle with a jig

The same method can be used when mounting vertical boards to the floor (and to the ceiling using appropriate screws / dowels).

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=monta%C5%BC+kreg+jig
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around techniques for attaching boards in a plank partition wall setup. Users suggest various methods, including using carpentry pins, stainless steel angles, and supports that allow for adjustments. Some participants mention the challenges of achieving a clean look without visible fastenings, while others highlight the potential for dirt accumulation in gaps. Suggestions include using plastic pads for wedging boards and employing dowels, though these may create gaps. A video link is provided for further assembly guidance.
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FAQ

TL;DR: For a clean plank partition, use 2 stainless L‑angles (30×30–40×40 mm) with countersunk screws; "Place two 30x30mm or 40x40mm stainless steel angles" to secure boards. [Elektroda, kierbedz4, post #18166612]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps DIYers and pros choose secure, low‑visibility ways to mount vertical boards floor‑to‑ceiling without guesswork.

Quick Facts

True invisible fixing with a finished ceiling isn’t feasible; expect visible or serviceable fasteners. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #18166302]
Practical spec: two stainless L‑angles, 30×30–40×40 mm, plus stainless countersunk screws. [Elektroda, kierbedz4, post #18166612]
Pocket‑hole jigs (e.g., Kreg) hide screws; fasten boards to floor/ceiling anchors. [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #18200598]
Adjustable wedges/support feet can press boards into the ceiling; mask the wedge hole afterward. [Elektroda, zworys, post #18200546]
Tilt‑in installs with pre‑set pegs may need about 10 cm clearance. [Elektroda, 169kondi, post #18165665]

What’s the best way to attach plank boards floor-to-ceiling without removing the ceiling?

With a finished ceiling, a truly invisible fixing isn’t feasible. "It is not possible to simply make an invisible fastening." Specialized spring or magnetic pins exist but are costly and impractical for most builds. Choose discreet hardware or plan access if you need hidden fasteners. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #18166302]

What simple, sturdy hardware should I use for a clean look?

Use two stainless L‑angles, 30×30 or 40×40 mm. Fix them to floor and ceiling, drill the angles, then use stainless countersunk screws to secure the boards. This gives a rigid track while keeping fixings low‑profile behind the boards. [Elektroda, kierbedz4, post #18166612]

How do adjustable supports under the boards work?

Attach supports beneath the boards, then “tweak” them with a key until each board presses against the ceiling. Leave a small floor gap to insert the key and adjust. This method keeps the faces clean while providing upward pressure. [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #18167307]

How do I hide or finish the wedge/support hardware?

Use thick profiles so a plastic pin and matching foot fit inside. Wedge from the less visible side. Then mask the hole used for the wedge with a plug or cap for a near‑invisible finish. [Elektroda, zworys, post #18200546]

Is a small floor gap a problem in daily use?

Yes. A visible gap looks great in photos, but it becomes a dirt trap and a cleaning headache. "It looks nice only in the photo." If you still need access, plan removable trim. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #18169024]

Can I pre-install dowels/pegs and then slide the boards in?

You can, but you’ll create a gap you cannot remove later. That tradeoff is the cost of using dowels with a finished ceiling. Consider other methods if you want a tight floor junction. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #18200428]

How do I hide screws using a pocket-hole jig (like Kreg)?

Use a pocket‑hole jig to place hidden screws on the back. 1. Drill pocket holes on the board’s rear edges. 2. Position the board and drive screws into anchors or framing. 3. Cap pocket holes with matching plugs for a clean face. [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #18200598]

Will solid wood movement loosen a wedged installation?

Yes. Solid wood expands and contracts with humidity. "Clean wood works" and ordinary boards can loosen or bend under the same wedging force. Use stable profiles or plan adjustable tension. [Elektroda, zworys, post #18200546]

How much clearance do I need to tilt boards past pre-set pegs?

Plan for about 10 cm clearance to tilt boards in if pegs are pre‑installed. With less space, you may not fit the board past the pegs without forcing a gap. [Elektroda, 169kondi, post #18165665]

How did the photo achieve such a seamless look?

It can look great in real life when mounted with a jig. Add neat caps so fasteners are barely visible on the face. "If you make a nice cap, you can hardly see it." [Elektroda, ladamaniac, post #18169178]

How do I install using L-angles in three quick steps?

Fix two stainless L‑angles (30×30–40×40 mm) to floor and ceiling. 2. Pre‑drill angle holes and board edges. 3. Use stainless countersunk screws to fasten boards through the angles, then cover as desired. [Elektroda, kierbedz4, post #18166612]

Can I attach the top directly to a suspended ceiling frame?

Yes. Fix the bottom with carpentry pins, then anchor the top into the suspended ceiling frame. This approach works well when starting from scratch with access above. [Elektroda, Tommy82, post #18165428]

What screw type should I choose to avoid rust or staining?

Use stainless steel countersunk screws with stainless angles. They resist corrosion and sit flush for a clean finish along the profiles. This pairing keeps the installation durable and discrete. [Elektroda, kierbedz4, post #18166612]

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