FAQ
TL;DR: For a clean plank partition, use 2 stainless L‑angles (30×30–40×40 mm) with countersunk screws; "Place two 30x30mm or 40x40mm stainless steel angles" to secure boards. [Elektroda, kierbedz4, post #18166612]
Why it matters: This FAQ helps DIYers and pros choose secure, low‑visibility ways to mount vertical boards floor‑to‑ceiling without guesswork.
Quick Facts
- True invisible fixing with a finished ceiling isn’t feasible; expect visible or serviceable fasteners. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #18166302]
- Practical spec: two stainless L‑angles, 30×30–40×40 mm, plus stainless countersunk screws. [Elektroda, kierbedz4, post #18166612]
- Pocket‑hole jigs (e.g., Kreg) hide screws; fasten boards to floor/ceiling anchors. [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #18200598]
- Adjustable wedges/support feet can press boards into the ceiling; mask the wedge hole afterward. [Elektroda, zworys, post #18200546]
- Tilt‑in installs with pre‑set pegs may need about 10 cm clearance. [Elektroda, 169kondi, post #18165665]
What’s the best way to attach plank boards floor-to-ceiling without removing the ceiling?
With a finished ceiling, a truly invisible fixing isn’t feasible. "It is not possible to simply make an invisible fastening." Specialized spring or magnetic pins exist but are costly and impractical for most builds. Choose discreet hardware or plan access if you need hidden fasteners. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #18166302]
What simple, sturdy hardware should I use for a clean look?
Use two stainless L‑angles, 30×30 or 40×40 mm. Fix them to floor and ceiling, drill the angles, then use stainless countersunk screws to secure the boards. This gives a rigid track while keeping fixings low‑profile behind the boards. [Elektroda, kierbedz4, post #18166612]
How do adjustable supports under the boards work?
Attach supports beneath the boards, then “tweak” them with a key until each board presses against the ceiling. Leave a small floor gap to insert the key and adjust. This method keeps the faces clean while providing upward pressure. [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #18167307]
How do I hide or finish the wedge/support hardware?
Use thick profiles so a plastic pin and matching foot fit inside. Wedge from the less visible side. Then mask the hole used for the wedge with a plug or cap for a near‑invisible finish. [Elektroda, zworys, post #18200546]
Is a small floor gap a problem in daily use?
Yes. A visible gap looks great in photos, but it becomes a dirt trap and a cleaning headache. "It looks nice only in the photo." If you still need access, plan removable trim. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #18169024]
Can I pre-install dowels/pegs and then slide the boards in?
You can, but you’ll create a gap you cannot remove later. That tradeoff is the cost of using dowels with a finished ceiling. Consider other methods if you want a tight floor junction. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #18200428]
How do I hide screws using a pocket-hole jig (like Kreg)?
Use a pocket‑hole jig to place hidden screws on the back. 1. Drill pocket holes on the board’s rear edges. 2. Position the board and drive screws into anchors or framing. 3. Cap pocket holes with matching plugs for a clean face. [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #18200598]
Will solid wood movement loosen a wedged installation?
Yes. Solid wood expands and contracts with humidity. "Clean wood works" and ordinary boards can loosen or bend under the same wedging force. Use stable profiles or plan adjustable tension. [Elektroda, zworys, post #18200546]
How much clearance do I need to tilt boards past pre-set pegs?
Plan for about 10 cm clearance to tilt boards in if pegs are pre‑installed. With less space, you may not fit the board past the pegs without forcing a gap. [Elektroda, 169kondi, post #18165665]
How did the photo achieve such a seamless look?
It can look great in real life when mounted with a jig. Add neat caps so fasteners are barely visible on the face. "If you make a nice cap, you can hardly see it." [Elektroda, ladamaniac, post #18169178]
How do I install using L-angles in three quick steps?
- Fix two stainless L‑angles (30×30–40×40 mm) to floor and ceiling. 2. Pre‑drill angle holes and board edges. 3. Use stainless countersunk screws to fasten boards through the angles, then cover as desired. [Elektroda, kierbedz4, post #18166612]
Can I attach the top directly to a suspended ceiling frame?
Yes. Fix the bottom with carpentry pins, then anchor the top into the suspended ceiling frame. This approach works well when starting from scratch with access above. [Elektroda, Tommy82, post #18165428]
What screw type should I choose to avoid rust or staining?
Use stainless steel countersunk screws with stainless angles. They resist corrosion and sit flush for a clean finish along the profiles. This pairing keeps the installation durable and discrete. [Elektroda, kierbedz4, post #18166612]
