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Converting 18V Ni-Cd Charger for Use with 5Ah Li-Ion Battery: Feasibility and Process

dominik12171 12780 15
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  • #1 17223843
    dominik12171
    Level 7  
    Posts: 27
    Rate: 7
    Board Language: polish
    Hello everyone :)

    I have an 18V screwdriver powered by a Ni-Cd 1200 mAh battery.

    I got a battery, also 18 V only 5 Ah and Li-Ion.

    My question is, is it possible to convert my old charger to a new battery? I searched the forum and found several posts about the same conversion, but one says that it can be done without a problem, and in another that it is not possible. Besides, these are posts from 2015.

    Below he adds some pictures which I hope you will find helpful.

    Charger Pictures:



    Converting 18V Ni-Cd Charger for Use with 5Ah Li-Ion Battery: Feasibility and Process Converting 18V Ni-Cd Charger for Use with 5Ah Li-Ion Battery: Feasibility and Process




    Picture of the current Ni-Cd battery
    Converting 18V Ni-Cd Charger for Use with 5Ah Li-Ion Battery: Feasibility and Process


    Photos of the new battery

    Converting 18V Ni-Cd Charger for Use with 5Ah Li-Ion Battery: Feasibility and Process Converting 18V Ni-Cd Charger for Use with 5Ah Li-Ion Battery: Feasibility and Process

    Thanks a lot for any help.

    If it is not possible to remake my charger, maybe it is possible to make one, e.g. from a laptop charger, which also has a Li-Ion battery.


    I would like to add that I wanted to transfer the cells from this 5Ah battery to my old 1.2 Ah.


    Edit:

    The reason to change the battery is because my current battery is very poor. After full charge, it keeps about 5 minutes of continuous work and that's it. I think I know why it happened.
    I just checked what current goes from the charger straight to the battery and it is NOTE 38V.
    It's probably way too much. Does this mean the end of the charger?
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  • #2 17223975
    kalkomania
    Level 17  
    Posts: 467
    Help: 25
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    Board Language: polish
    Start with the charger ... can you use it (you don't need a special Li-Ion one) but you need to output about 21V
    The second important thing, open a new purchase, there you will have an electronics board on the cells, take a photo and give it, it's about pins and markings, This is a discharge protection module and maybe a balance, because it will ultimately decide whether you will need a specialized charger or I can just charge what you have.
    Yet there is another solution, but do it later, so don't be afraid of anything the solution will be found
  • #3 17223994
    dominik12171
    Level 7  
    Posts: 27
    Rate: 7
    Board Language: polish
    Thanks for the answer.

    I do not know about my charger, I do not see anything that could indicate its damage, and yet the current is 38v at the output.

    I throw in the photo, but this plate is all stuck and you can't really see anything.

    Converting 18V Ni-Cd Charger for Use with 5Ah Li-Ion Battery: Feasibility and Process

    Added after 7 [minutes]:

    kalkomania wrote:
    Start with the charger ... can you use it (you don't need a special Li-Ion one) but you need to output about 21V
    The second important thing, open a new purchase, there you will have an electronics board on the cells, take a photo and give it, it's about pins and markings, This is a discharge protection module and maybe a balance, because it will ultimately decide whether you will need a specialized charger or I can just charge what you have.
    Yet there is another solution, but do it later, so don't be afraid of anything the solution will be found



    As for the pin markings, please see the picture of the battery housing. There are various markings on the casing, but I don't know if that's what you mean.
  • #4 17224048
    kalkomania
    Level 17  
    Posts: 467
    Help: 25
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    Board Language: polish
    Try to gently remove this cover, we need to see the module.
    Unless someone from your colleagues unscrewed the battery and says about the pins.
    A lot of these pins. You can see that the links were probably balanced from the outside. Chargers.
    Big + and - this is the output. maybe it will also be possible to recharge after them
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  • #5 17224280
    dominik12171
    Level 7  
    Posts: 27
    Rate: 7
    Board Language: polish
    Unfortunately, after many attempts to remove this glue or whatever it is, it has not been possible to get rid of it. It was coming off piece by piece, but it did not break away from the plate itself, and I didn't want to try to do it with anything sharp.

    I feel like I will be left with one good battery I am unable to charge and damaged original battery and charger :)
  • #6 17224478
    kalkomania
    Level 17  
    Posts: 467
    Help: 25
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    Board Language: polish
    Calmly....
    Are you sure that the battery is good and it's not about the cells themselves, but about electronics ...? check the voltage on pins (+, -), Check the voltage on individual cells there are 5 x2.
    If the cells are good with charging, there is no problem, but in a moment ...
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  • #7 17224544
    dominik12171
    Level 7  
    Posts: 27
    Rate: 7
    Board Language: polish
    It may sound strange, but even the old battery (18v) has exactly the same voltage as the new one, 20.4 to be exact. All links are operational. I am just wondering why the old battery does not last even 5 minutes.

    The new battery is good, before I got it it was used and charged :) Withstands several hours in mixed operation mode.
  • #8 17224644
    kalkomania
    Level 17  
    Posts: 467
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    Board Language: polish
    Ni-Cd, if you charge it to full capacity, does it keep the voltage or dropping /// after a few / several hours?
    Check each cell separately, because there may be one or two weak ones, and they will blow your entire battery, and it may be that their end is close to no capacity and a flap, but it could be your charger blown out (38V is too much)
    Coming back to Li-Ion, everything is OK.
    Now the important thing is whether the battery electronics will allow you to charge through the pins (+, -), if so, then the matter is simple, you need to check it, discharge the battery a little, e.g. using a car bulb so that the voltage on the pins drops to say 19-20, then you need to have any power supply, even from a laptop, but on 21V 2-3A and try to charge through the same pins for several minutes and check whether it is charging or the module is not blocking you. Do you have any other power supply as long as it has 21V?
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  • #9 17224714
    dominik12171
    Level 7  
    Posts: 27
    Rate: 7
    Board Language: polish
    The old battery has not lost its voltage after a few hours, but after connecting it to the screwdriver and using it for about a minute without any resistance, the voltage is 18.9V.

    I only have a laptop charger, but it's 19V. I will look for something in a moment, although I doubt that I will be able to find something like this at home.

    Added after 5 [minutes]:

    I also noticed that during charging, the voltage at the charger output varies between 19.8-20.02V.
  • #10 17224763
    kalkomania
    Level 17  
    Posts: 467
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    20v is ok but on idle 38v something is wrong i would not trust her./
    My old Ni-Cd charger also uses 18V, idle voltage 24V when charging the battery goes down to 18-19V.
    If you have a power supply from a laptop and it is on 19V (but we're only talking about a charging attempt), then you need to discharge the battery below this voltage at least 1/2 V down.
    The point is that we must be sure that the battery module will allow us to charge the cells.
    If the result is positive, we will return to the issue of proper Li-Ion charging.
    Are you able to fit those 10 levs in the old housing or is it just going to come in 5?
  • #11 17224876
    _jta_
    Electronics specialist
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    This in the picture in # 3 is it a new Li-ion battery, an old charger, or something else?

    As for the battery, it should have some marking - maybe you can find a description on the manufacturer's website according to this?

    The Li-ion cell itself should be charged to a voltage not greater than that specified by the manufacturer - they can be different, usually from 4.1V to 4.2V, and you have to watch it very carefully - exceeding the specified voltage generally damages the cell, and sometimes what is Near. This cell may contain a circuit that protects it against inappropriate charging and discharging - with this circuit it tolerates a slightly higher voltage.

    The balancer ensures that the cells are charged evenly. It must be at the battery. If it is not there, the battery will probably not last long.
  • #12 17225092
    kalkomania
    Level 17  
    Posts: 467
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    Board Language: polish
    The plate in the battery is extremely small, I suspect that it is a normal charge / discharge protection. termiczne.balance is unlikely to be there.
    But going back to charging, there is C + on the first left pin. (charge)
    And 100% I would connect there (+) from charging, i.e. pins (C +, -)
  • #13 17225961
    dominik12171
    Level 7  
    Posts: 27
    Rate: 7
    Board Language: polish
    The picture shows a li-ion battery for which I need a charger.

    The model is bsl 1850, See you here
  • #14 17225992
    kalkomania
    Level 17  
    Posts: 467
    Help: 25
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    Board Language: polish
    Well, you can get the charger for 100 and you're in trouble
    Say, will these 10 cells go into the old housing?
  • #15 17226036
    dominik12171
    Level 7  
    Posts: 27
    Rate: 7
    Board Language: polish
    will not enter, but it is so cool that I have a hitachi screwdriver :) So the topic of reworking the battery is basically outdated. So the only thing left is to buy the original?
  • #16 17226931
    kalkomania
    Level 17  
    Posts: 467
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    Board Language: polish
    That's great. :D
    Because all this fun with DIY translation may not be bad, it will come out a bit cheaper, you will learn / learn something new, but will lose many hours of work.
    And so you have a complete set, buy a second battery and it will last you for years.
    Best regards.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the feasibility of converting an 18V Ni-Cd charger to charge a new 18V 5Ah Li-Ion battery. Users express concerns about the compatibility of the charger, noting that the output voltage of the charger is significantly higher than expected (38V). Suggestions include checking the battery's internal electronics for charge/discharge protection and ensuring the cells are functioning properly. It is emphasized that Li-Ion batteries require specific charging conditions, and users are advised to use a compatible power supply to avoid damaging the battery. Ultimately, the consensus leans towards purchasing a dedicated charger for the Li-Ion battery rather than attempting a DIY conversion, as it may save time and ensure safety.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: Use ~21V, 2–3A to test‑charge the 18V Li‑ion pack; "38V is too much" for a Ni‑Cd charger. If the pack’s electronics accepts +/– charging, you can adapt; if it blocks, use the OEM Li‑ion charger instead. [Elektroda, kalkomania, post #17224644]

Why it matters: This helps DIYers decide how to safely power a Hitachi/Hikoki 18V tool when upgrading from Ni‑Cd to Li‑ion.

Quick Facts

Can I use my 18V Ni-Cd charger to charge a 5Ah Li‑ion (Hitachi BSL1850)?

Only if the Li‑ion pack’s electronics allows charging through the +/– pins. Your Ni‑Cd unit showing 38V no‑load is unsafe. Use a regulated ~21V, 2–3A supply for testing instead. Otherwise, buy the correct Li‑ion charger. [Elektroda, kalkomania, post #17224644]

What charging voltage and current should I target for an 18V Li‑ion pack?

Charge each Li‑ion cell to 4.20V with CC/CV control. Multiply by the series cell count to get the pack’s end‑of‑charge voltage (5S → ~21.0V). Do not exceed the per‑cell limit. "Charge Li‑ion to 4.20V/cell with tight accuracy." [“BU-409: Charging Lithium-ion”]

How do I test if the BSL1850’s BMS allows charging via +/–?

  1. Discharge the pack to about 19–20V using a safe load.
  2. Apply a regulated 21V, 2–3A DC supply to +/– with correct polarity.
  3. Watch pack voltage and current; continue only if voltage rises and nothing heats. If current is blocked, the BMS rejects it. [Elektroda, kalkomania, post #17224644]

Where are the charging pins on a Hitachi BSL1850 battery?

The pack includes a small protection board. The first left pin is labeled C+ (charge positive). Use C+ and – for charging rather than generic contacts. This aligns with the pack’s intended charge path. [Elektroda, kalkomania, post #17225092]

My Ni‑Cd charger shows 38V no‑load. Is that safe for Li‑ion?

"38V is too much." That reading suggests a faulty or unsuitable charger. Do not connect it to a Li‑ion pack. Use a regulated ~21V source or the OEM Li‑ion charger instead. [Elektroda, kalkomania, post #17224644]

Why does my old 18V Ni‑Cd show 20.4V at rest but dies in minutes?

High internal resistance or one weak cell can collapse voltage under load. Check each cell individually; a single bad cell drags the entire pack. Replace failed cells or the pack. A blown charger may have worsened degradation. [Elektroda, kalkomania, post #17224478]

Can I transplant 5Ah Li‑ion cells into my old 1.2Ah Ni‑Cd housing?

It’s not practical. The 5Ah pack is larger and uses more cells, and it did not fit the old housing in this case. You also need a proper BMS and wiring. Use the Li‑ion pack with its compatible charger. [Elektroda, dominik12171, post #17226036]

Do I need cell balancing for this 5S tool battery?

The board in the shown pack looks like basic protection, not an active balancer. Without balancing, cell drift can increase over time. Use the intended charger or a system that honors the pack’s charge pins. [Elektroda, kalkomania, post #17225092]

What’s the simplest, safe solution to charge a Hitachi BSL1850?

Buy the OEM Hitachi/Hikoki charger for that pack. It’s plug‑and‑play and avoids pinout, BMS, and safety guesswork. The forum noted cost around 100, which is reasonable for reliability. [Elektroda, kalkomania, post #17225992]

Can I charge through the large + and – output terminals?

Possibly, if the pack’s electronics allows charge on those blades. Some packs accept charging there; others require C+. Verify with a brief, current‑limited test and monitor behavior closely. [Elektroda, kalkomania, post #17224048]

Can a 19V laptop charger work here?

It can for a quick test only. First discharge the pack below 19V, then apply 19V to see if the BMS accepts charge. Do not use this as a permanent charger. Use a proper regulated CC/CV tool charger. [Elektroda, kalkomania, post #17224763]

How do I know the BMS is blocking charging?

Apply correct polarity and voltage, then watch current and voltage. If current stays near zero and voltage does not rise, the module blocks charge. "Check whether it is charging or the module is not blocking you." [Elektroda, kalkomania, post #17224644]

Is ~24V open‑circuit normal for some Ni‑Cd chargers?

Yes, some show ~24V no‑load and drop to 18–19V when charging. That behavior can be normal. But 38V no‑load is abnormal and risky for Li‑ion. Verify before use. [Elektroda, kalkomania, post #17224763]

I can’t remove the potting/glue to see the board. What now?

Do not force it. You risk damaging the BMS or cells. If you cannot expose the board, use external pin testing or purchase the OEM charger to avoid damage. [Elektroda, dominik12171, post #17224280]

What happens if I exceed 4.20V per cell when charging Li‑ion?

Over‑voltage damages cells and can create safety risks. Stay within 4.20V per cell using accurate CC/CV control. End charge when current tapers near zero at the voltage limit. Never push beyond the specified cell maximum. [“BU-409: Charging Lithium-ion”]
Generated by the language model.
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