Megane II 2004 - Rear boot lock and rear washer does not work.

Hello,

car as in the HB version.
I checked:
- the flap opening button (functional)
- the lock itself works for a short time, the switch that is in it, signaling its opening, is also functional.
-grommet with wires, trunk lid, functional.
- a cube inside the trunk, 6 pins like needles, no moisture.

UCH is controlled by the tailgate? Is there any other relay out there?

Rear washer:
- new engine.
- works on the windshield.
- interestingly, the current appears (checked by the indicator), but when it switches to the rear washer, the meter shows that the polarity has reversed, i.e. it is correct, but the intensity is no longer there, the indicator does not light up, the motor does not work.
- the rear wiper itself works.

What to check? The handle itself is probably functional, since the current polarity changes.
I understand the relay soldered in UCH?

Thanks for any advice / diagram of this car.

best regards

Frost160 wrote:

The handle itself is probably functional, since the current polarity changes.

Frost160 wrote:

the meter shows that the polarity has reversed, i.e. correct, but the intensity is no longer there, the indicator light is off, the motor is not working.

What is the moral of it? - the contacts in the combined switch are burned and hence it does not work, no electronics controls the sprinkler, the power supply flies stiffly from the right handle.

Frost160 wrote:

UCH is controlled by the tailgate?

Got a card flap opening? Did you shorten the opening button cables?

Thanks for the answer.

In that case, I will check the lever (are you sure that it is stiffly powered from the lever?).
I thought she just gave the signal to the UCH and the motor drive was from it. It's also strange because the front washer is used much more than the rear and the rear one is burned out.

It has 3 buttons in the card and that extra button in the Reno logo, so I guess so. The markings are so scratched on the card that you can't see.

Added after 8 [hours] 10 [minutes]:

On the tester, the parameters confirm what I checked manually:
- the opening button works
-cassette lock shows closed / open-
- the driver (UCH) shows after pressing the opening button on the flap that it sends an impulse to the lock / bolt to open it. However, nothing happens.

Current does not come to the lock cassette. There must be a relay in the UCH itself?


As for this washer, it can also be seen in the parameters each time I turn the spray handle that the controller sees it. So I do not think that there would be electricity through the coin itself, only probably from the driver / relay.

Frost160 wrote:

So I do not think that there would be electricity through the coin itself, only probably from the driver / relay.

If you say so, let's do it.

Let's leave this washer and the price of the new handle (PLN 650, all integrated) for the owner makes this repair unprofitable.

The lock is controlled by the UCH?

I will answer myself, it is driven; D

Nobody will tell you anything, gentlemen?

On one of the hatch lock motor pins there should be still 12V (pin 2 ankles), on one of the hatch opening button cables there should be still mass, by pressing the button you give the mass to the second motor cable (pin 1), causing it to work. There should be a mass on the lock pins 3 and 4 on the open door lock. Check what I wrote.

I checked today there is no 12v on pin 2 that is to be from UCH, I came to the R2 ankle at the left column and there is no electricity there either.
The mass on the button is, the switch in the lock works, I pass the mass to the UCH again (on 4 it comes from the button and gives it on 3 as it locks)? To see that the closed flap (here it is ok because in the parameters it shows a closed / open lock)

Frost160 wrote:

I checked today there is no 12v on pin 2 that is to be from UCH, I came to the R2 ankle at the left column and there is no electricity there either.

Then check the installation to the UCH itself, how ok is the power output from the UCH released. A small hint, this power is present only when the central one is open, after closing the car with a card, the power is lost, it appears only after opening the car with a card or after pressing the trunk opening button on the card.

Power output, that is, the plug and the pins coming out of the ear in it, yes?

The cable and the plug to the ears are checked, working properly.

I opened my ear, here's what I found:


Burnout almost perfectly over the power pin you wrote about.

Can it be fixed? Is it only a replacement for a stimulant and an immo spacer?

Added after 17 [hours] 36 [minutes]:

Is there someone on the electrode who repairs such modules? I wrote to Pawel-Wawa but he didn't even write back, I don't think he is anymore.

Hello
I will connect to the topic. I have exactly the same case. For me, someone also fixed the problem with the cottage industry by connecting + from a location other than UCH, but also active only after opening the central one. I put everything back to factory condition, everything worked as it should for about a week and the entertainment was repeated My UCH looks similar, maybe it is not as burned as my friend's. Maybe someone would be able to define what this element is?

Maybe it's just a bridge like the one above and a piece of wire will do

Well, my topic is solved. If someone ever needed it, there is a resistor installed in the place that burns out. Unfortunately, I found divergent information about its value. One source gave about 100 ?, the other 0 ?. The element that I had had a value of 95 ?, but due to the fact that it was burned out, it is difficult to speak of any accuracy. Eventually I found something like this:



An ordinary 0? "jumper" is mounted here So I put in the right resistor and everything works as it should. The hatch opens every time. The only problem I encountered was the chafing path on one side of the resistor, but somehow I managed to solder it. Finally, I poured tile varnish to make everything stick.

Below are the parameters of the resistor I installed:

Resistance - 0R
Housing - 1206
Tolerance - 5%
Power - 250mW

Did you have the exact same spot burned out?

Yes, but not as much as yours. In my case, the tracks were still completely detached. The resistor, on the other hand, was burned out and there was no chance to read its value.
By the way, I don't know why there is information about two resistor values. Maybe it depends on the date of production of the UCH. I have it from the beginning, i.e. 2002.