Hot-Burning Solenoid Valve Coil on Additional Gas Cylinder: Solutions & Precautions

Hey. I connected an additional cylinder to the gas installation using tees and elbows.
There were no problems with refueling, both of them were full.
I connected the coil of the new cylinder in parallel with the coil of the old one BUT there were no + and - markings on the new one. The coil was hot, even burning (oddly enough, not always).
When the gas in the "original" cylinder ran out, the solenoid valve from the new one did not open and the car switched to petrol. At the moment, the coil is not heating up, it may have burned out. I have a few ideas:
-change the poles, plus and minus, check that the solenoid valve opens
-replace the coil and do nothing
-change coil and change poles immediately
I don't have any more ideas, the problem is rather not complicated, but I would rather not burn another coil.
Best regards.

Buddy, the plunger of the solenoid valve is stuck and therefore the coil heats up, it is probably damaged, replace the plunger and the coil should be ok. Regards ADAM.

The coil is damaged, there are no poles, the piston does not affect the heating - crap.
Check if it has power, coil current is about 1A, power is about 10-15W

Ok, I'm ordering a coil, I'll let you know how things are going.

The new coil has arrived, after putting it on, the effect is the same, it gets hot! I will try to replace the plus with the minus because nothing else comes to my mind that could be the cause of this state of affairs ...

Well, it's supposed to be warm can you read 10 to 15 watts? Take a 15W bulb and what? Will it be cold?

These are two questions, why does the coil in the first cylinder not heat up and why does the coil that heats up not open the solenoid valve?

New coil means working, if it is marked + - then polarity should be checked and properly connected. If it still doesn't work, unscrew the valve and see what's inside. If the coil does not pull the core, it has the right to heat up, or so hard, it's hard to say, but since the valve does not open, you have to unscrew it anyway.

DC coil

kwok wrote:

The coil, if it does not pull the core, has the right to heat up,

Another one will write such stupidity and warnings from top to bottom are sprinkled.
This is a technical forum.
The DC coil current is not influenced by the magnetic core.

It's just that the coil that heats up is different. Than the other one.

Stream consciousness ... I understand what you wrote but I still have no idea what could be the reason why the solenoid valve does not open.

Disassemble the valve and look at the core as the hen did? With this treatment, all the gas from the cylinder will escape, all PLN 80

And you hear the plunger ticking at all? Give pictures of both solenoid valves.
Measure the voltage on both at the same time.

The stream of consciousness surprised me with the simplicity of the question, I know how the solenoid works, but I did not know that the impact of the core is so clear. While the engine is running on gas, I take off the attached coil, put it on again and it is! No doubt the solenoid valve opens! The old coil turned out to be working! The voltage that comes to it to satisfy my curiosity is 12.8 VDC ..

Where then to look for the cause? The wires are connected correctly, there is no doubt about that.



For a better understanding of blurred photos, I will write, the cylinder lies on the cylinder, they are connected with each other with pins. In the photo on the left, the red coil is the one I suspected was out of order.

Provide each separate power supply and listen to the valve. The cold one is probably not opening because he got high. 1A of current for each coil.
15W must heat up, if someone does not understand it, he must change his hobby or profession.

Added after 3 [minutes]:

These coils don't have faders, so no + and - !!

I consider the topic of the hot coil closed, the more I do not understand why you come back to it.
The facts are that both solenoid valves open, the one in photo 2 is the case because the car works on gas, and the one in the first photo, as I wrote above ...

Art B, thanks for this remark, it was neither twisted nor unscrewed, I unscrewed as much as possible. I did not even take it into account because the cylinder was used in another car not so long ago and this valve was not touched by anyone. In some 350km (i.e. soon) I will let you know if that was the reason.

And I will answer your question.
It warms up and it will keep warm. The solution is a simple switch between the tanks. During the flow of gas, the valve housing is cooled as well as the coil. If no gas flows through it, it overheats.

Artur.B was right, the reason was that the manual valve was not fully open, a trivial matter, but it caused some trouble, thanks very much.