what keeps cause my Hydraulic Solenoid to keep burning up ?

I'm controlling a AC solenoid from a PLC and the solenoid keeps burning up after 12 hours of operation, and it'll pop my 15 amp breaker. It won't short the relay or blow the fuse from the output though. I have checked the voltage going to the solenoid and current during operation and nothing unusual shows. I get 120 to coil and it pulls in about .5 Amps. I believe its neutral because it only pops the breaker and doesn't blow the fuses? Could someone help me?

Alex, very difficult to comment without more info.  Do you have the solenoid model or a link to a datasheet?120V at 0.5 A is 60VA.  A good bit of that is probably resistive and hence heat-generating.  So your solenoid will generate quite a bit of heat.  Maybe it is intended for a low duty cycle (10-25 % and you are using it for more than that?  The other possible explanation is that you have spikes of voltage across the solenoid winding, possible during switching, which is generating high voltages which may cause an arc between turns and eventually shorted turns, which will burn out any AC coil fairly quickly.Not sure if any of those will be the cause, but worth thinking about.  If you have any more data let us know.

Yes i do sorry about that it's a rexroth r978915241 I have it wired it as described. Based on what you said what could i do like add resister between hot and neutral to help with some of that heat?

its rexroth 978915241.What can do to handle the excessive current just put a resistor between hot and neutral.

The copper wires of hydraulic solenoid coil must use the specified grade insulating varnish, if not, the solenoid coils may burn out because of defective insulation.keep a look at it GHDsports.

Hi Alex-No- a resistor between hot and neutral won't help.  If you were to install a resistor it would go in SERIES with the hot lead.Before you do that, let's dig a little deeper. I tried to look up the specs using the part number you provided, but I haven't found anything that may be helpful.Are you just replacing the coil or the whole valve?  Can you send a picture of any nameplate info?   When you replace the coil does it work normally up until it fails?If the armature of the valve is stuck so it cannot move it will cause the coil to draw too much current.  Could that be a possibility?-Rick