FAQ
TL;DR: For Galaxy J5 2017 AMOLED removal, heat about 90°C for up to 10 minutes; "separate with a thin rigid film" and IPA. This FAQ covers temps, tools, solvents, and failure signs to avoid cracks. [Elektroda, zjo, post #17401178]
Why it matters: For DIYers and repair techs pulling a J5 2017/J530 display, this reduces breakage, cost, and rework.
Quick Facts
- Baseline method: ~90°C on a separator, wick IPA, use a thin rigid film; panel often frees in ≤10 minutes. [Elektroda, zjo, post #17401178]
- Heat-gun alternative: 100–120°C, low airflow; panel off in about 8–10 minutes; disconnect the battery promptly. [Elektroda, seba694637, post #17459588]
- Solvent safety: Small amounts OK on AMOLED; avoid on IPS/LCD (e.g., Sony M4/M5) to prevent discoloration. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17401156]
- Entry tools: Start with a 0.1 mm flexible metal pick, then switch to plastic cards and a suction cup. [Elektroda, Allx84, post #17463219]
- Preheat guidance: More than 3–5 minutes around 80°C before prying improves separation. [Elektroda, geryon, post #17417303]
What separator temperature and time work best for the Galaxy J5 2017 AMOLED?
Set the separator around 90°C. Wick isopropyl alcohol (IPA) into the gap and slide a thin, rigid plastic film. “I give 90° on the separator,” one pro notes. With good technique, separation typically completes within about 10 minutes. Keep motions gentle and flat to the plane. [Elektroda, zjo, post #17401178]
Are 2–3 minutes on the separator enough before prying?
No. Let it heat longer than 3–5 minutes at about 80°C. Create a small entry at the bottom with a thin card and add minimal solvent. Use a suction cup and micro-motions to reduce stress. Rewet as needed and proceed slowly. [Elektroda, geryon, post #17417303]
Where should I start prying, and why?
Create initial gaps at the sides, then work from the bottom edge. On many Samsung models, you can also push from the hole under the battery. These AMOLED assemblies are usually bonded mainly at the edges. This path reduces flex on the display stack. [Elektroda, zjo, post #17401178]
What tools and thickness should I use to get under the display safely?
Begin with a flexible 0.1 mm metal opener to break the seal at the frame. Switch to plastic card-style picks underneath the AMOLED. Use packing tape to secure glass for a suction cup. Add small amounts of OCA separator fluid through each gap. [Elektroda, Allx84, post #17463219]
Can I use a heat gun instead of a separator? What settings?
Yes, if you control heat and airflow. Use a quality heat gun at 100–120°C with low airflow. Heat until the assembly feels too hot to touch. Add a little IPA and remove in about 8–10 minutes. Disconnect the battery quickly afterward. [Elektroda, seba694637, post #17459588]
Why do some techs avoid heat guns for this?
Heat guns are harder to control, and AMOLEDs are delicate. Uneven heating increases damage risk. If you already own a heater/separator, use it instead. “The heat gun is too difficult to control” for this precision task. [Elektroda, zjo, post #17433542]
Is IPA or adhesive remover safe on this AMOLED? What should I avoid?
Use small amounts only on AMOLED. Avoid wicking solvents into IPS/LCD units like Sony M4/M5. Solvent can infiltrate LCD layers and cause permanent discoloration. Apply sparingly and keep it away from backlight films. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17401156]
Which solvent do pros use for this job?
Many use isopropyl alcohol (IPA). Some also use dedicated adhesive remover like 8333. Apply the solvent at the gap and work with a plastic card. This reduces stress and helps the adhesive release smoothly. [Elektroda, rafallos5, post #17398007]
How do I stop the panel cracking when I slide under the display?
Insert a thick business card under the display to distribute force. Heat the separator to about 100°C first. The card acts as a safety buffer while you advance plastic picks. Keep movements shallow and parallel to the plane. [Elektroda, jusek00, post #17357654]
What visual warning tells me I’m about to damage an AMOLED while prying?
Watch for a shade change in the AMOLED near your tool. That indicates a critical stress point. Back off, reheat, and change angle. For IPS, avoid scratching or wetting the backlight, which will show in images. [Elektroda, xebo, post #17461213]
Quick 3-step: How do I separate the J5 2017 display cleanly?
- Heat on a heater ~85°C for about 10 minutes; tape the glass for suction.
- Open sides with a 0.1 mm metal pick, then the bottom. Inject tiny OCA separator amounts at each gap.
- Reheat intermittently. Slide plastic cards under the panel and lift with a suction cup. If the top is cracked near electronics, slide downward instead. [Elektroda, Allx84, post #17463219]
Should I reheat during the process?
Yes. Cycle the assembly back to the heater as you gain depth. Warm adhesive releases more cleanly, reducing force and risk. Add small amounts of separator fluid as you progress. Keep lift shallow and controlled. [Elektroda, Allx84, post #17463219]
How do I handle cracks near the top electronics area?
Do not lift upward through the flex area if the top is cracked. Instead, slide the assembly downward to protect the electronics. Maintain heat and use plastic picks with minimal solvent. Keep tension low with a suction cup. [Elektroda, Allx84, post #17463219]
Tips for LCDs that aren’t fully glued (e.g., Sony Z1/Z3, P8 Lite)?
They are usually not bonded across the full surface. Minimize glass tilt while cutting adhesive. Slightly deflect the edge and insert a thin, stiff plastic strip. Avoid stiff bank cards, which can snag and crack panels. [Elektroda, zjo, post #17460699]
What’s a simple starting technique if I have only basic tools?
Heat the sides and start with the thinnest pick you have. Once it releases slightly, slide in a plastic plate. Work slowly around the perimeter. This creates entry paths with minimal stress. [Elektroda, KRY5PIN, post #17353284]
Do I need to disconnect the battery during this process?
Yes, after you free the set, disconnect the battery promptly. A heat-gun workflow targets 100–120°C with low airflow and quick disassembly. This helps avoid powered-line stress. Then proceed with the rest of the removal. [Elektroda, seba694637, post #17459588]