FAQ
TL;DR: Yaris 1.0 no‑crank with 0 clicks and "there is no click of the relay" points to a starter‑control fault, not a flat battery. Check the fuse/relay, clutch switch, ignition switch, and whether the solenoid gets power with a test light. [Elektroda, wisz, post #17523783]
Why it matters: This FAQ helps Toyota Yaris Mk1 1.0 petrol owners and DIYers quickly isolate no‑crank/no‑click faults without guesswork.
Quick Facts
- Symptom pattern: bright dash, 0 clicks, no voltage dip suggests an open control circuit, not high current draw. [Elektroda, wisz, post #17523783]
- The Yaris clutch interlock must see the pedal pressed; a failed clutch switch blocks cranking. [Elektroda, CameR, post #17522508]
- Starter fuse/relay sit in the engine‑bay box; check the fuse first, then the relay. [Elektroda, badyl666, post #17522562]
- Quick check: with key ON, bridge the relay’s two thick pins; if the starter spins, the control side is faulty. [Elektroda, Wawrzyniec, post #20025376]
- Healthy 12 V battery reads ~12.6–12.8 V at rest; ~12.2 V or lower risks unreliable cranking. [*BU-903: How to Measure State-of-charge*]
What are the most likely causes of a Yaris 1.0 that won’t crank but lights work?
Focus on the starter control path. Check the battery condition, starter fuse, starter relay, clutch start switch, ignition switch, wiring to the solenoid, and the starter/solenoid assembly. These are the standard items in Toyota’s starting system diagnostic tree for the Mk1 Yaris. Prioritize simple checks first, then test for control voltage at the solenoid. [Toyota Yaris (P1) Repair Manual – Starting System]
How do I check if the solenoid gets a control signal during start?
Use a 12 V test light. Clip to ground and probe the solenoid control terminal while an assistant turns the key to START. The lamp should light during crank. If it does not, the fault is in fuses, relay, ignition switch, clutch switch, or wiring. “Check the incandescent bulb for power to the starter solenoid during startup.” [Elektroda, mod22, post #17523808]
Where is the starter relay/fuse on the Yaris Mk1 1.0?
They are in the engine‑compartment fuse/relay box. The cover diagram identifies the ST (starter) relay position and related fuse. Verify against the lid map because trim levels can leave sockets empty. Inspect the fuse, then swap‑test or meter the relay before chasing wiring. [Elektroda, badyl666, post #17522562]
Dash lights don’t dim and I hear no click. What does that indicate?
That pattern signals no high‑current draw and no solenoid engagement. It points to an open in the control circuit, such as a failed relay, ignition switch, clutch switch, or broken solenoid feed. The thread reports bright cluster, 0 clicks, and no voltage dip under START. [Elektroda, wisz, post #17523783]
Do I need to press the clutch to start a Yaris 1.0?
Yes. The clutch interlock must read the pedal depressed before the ECU allows the START request. A failed or misadjusted clutch pedal switch prevents cranking. Check that the pedal is fully pressed and confirm the switch operation if no crank occurs. [Elektroda, CameR, post #17522508]
How do I safely bridge the starter relay to test the starter?
- Key ON, transmission in neutral, parking brake set.
- Remove the starter relay and identify the two thick power terminals.
- Momentarily bridge those two thick terminals with a fused jumper; the starter should spin if it is healthy. [Elektroda, Wawrzyniec, post #20025376]
Could the ignition switch be the problem on this Yaris?
Yes. Intermittent or failed ignition switch contacts can block the START signal. One owner chased the issue and ultimately fixed it at the ignition switch, spending about PLN 60. Immobilizer issues can compound symptoms, so have a competent auto electrician evaluate if basics pass. [Elektroda, tomek2875, post #17524016]
How can I test the suspected starter relay with a multimeter?
Identify the coil on the thinner pins and measure for continuity. An open reading indicates a failed coil. Apply 12 V to the coil and confirm the contact closes between COM and NO on the thicker pins. One thick terminal should get power in START. [Elektroda, abart64, post #17523822]
Relay clicks but the starter still won’t crank—what next?
If the relay actuates, bridge the relay’s power terminals. Slight sparking with no crank suggests worn starter brushes or a failed starter. If bridging cranks the engine, the control side is fine; look at clutch switch or ignition switch logic instead. [Elektroda, abart64, post #17523822]
Instrument display blanks during START yet no crank—what does that imply?
That behavior suggests the ignition switch and clutch relay are functioning, but the fault is downstream. Suspect the starter relay output, solenoid feed, or the starter itself. Continue by verifying control voltage at the solenoid and performing a relay bridge test. [Elektroda, kkknc, post #17523806]
What battery voltage should I see before and during cranking?
At rest, a healthy 12 V battery reads about 12.6–12.8 V. During cranking, avoid drops near or below 10 V. Low voltage reduces solenoid pull‑in force and can mimic control faults. Recharge or replace a weak battery before deeper diagnostics. [BU-903: How to Measure State-of-charge]
I have the same issue—what order should I check things in?
Follow a quick triage: verify battery health first, then check the starter fuse and relay. Confirm clutch switch operation, test for solenoid control power with a lamp, and bridge the relay. If those pass, inspect the starter/solenoid assembly. “They start with the battery and ending with the starter.” [Elektroda, kkknc, post #20025755]
