Toyota Yaris 1 (benz.1.0) - Starter does not turn (ignites at pride)

Hello. I have a problem with Toyota Yaris 1 with 1.0 petrol engine. After stopping the car and turning off the running engine, the attempt to start again failed. Details of the operating symptoms in this condition are as follows: after turning the key in the ignition, the lights come on, the electromagnet in the starter is not clicked, the starter does not turn, the engine does not start. I will add that when you try to start, the lights do not even "dim" for a moment, which would mean that the impulse of current consumption from the battery by the main circuit of the starter is not present. The car was able to ignite "pride", thanks to which it was possible to reach the destination.
I suspect damage to: the solenoid circuit fuse (if there is such protection) or the relay in this circuit (if present) or the solenoid in the starter or the power supply cable of this solenoid.
The question is, in this model, the starter solenoid circuit has protection and possibly a relay? Common sense should be like that. Unfortunately, I do not know this car enough, hence I do not know exactly which elements are in the fuse box (as I guess the box is in the engine compartment). I want to check these elements before making a decision about going to the workshop, because it can be restored to the vehicle at a low cost. Thank you in advance for all suggestions.

Hello, check the fuse and the relay are in the engine compartment.

Clutch pedal depressed during start-up?
Is the clutch pedal sensor OK?
Anything diagnosed - though a "light bulb", there is a control voltage on the starter solenoid?

I suspect the ignition block or the relay.

Hello. Check the fuse first and then the relay.

Hello. Thank you for your quick response colleagues. I haven't diagnosed anything yet. The description I made was based on the story of a car user who has so much in common with the automotive industry that he drives this car and has nothing to do with electrical engineering or electronics. I'll do the tests and see what the result will be.

Check briefly if it's spinning. That's where starters fall. Without any symptom. And when you press the clutch listen to the knock of the relay?

I just did the first tests. Unfortunately, outside, when it was raining, so I didn't delve too much. In the fuse box - the fuse is OK (like the others). When turning the key in the ignition (when the clutch is depressed), there is no click of the relay or the electromagnet from the starter, although the display of the speedometer goes out (but this is probably how it normally is; the other lights do not go out). The voltage meter does not show a temporary decrease in voltage on the battery. The system of relays and fuses is slightly different from the one given in the diagram above. Many fuse and relay sockets are empty (the car is poorly equipped). For example, in the place indicated as the ST Relay (stater) relay, there is a relay with a different lead arrangement. Rather, it resembles the circuit shown for the two relays below. This relay (and only him) has an orange housing, while the others are gray. I took it out of the socket and had two "knife" slides wider, which I think is the relay coil leads and three more "knife" narrower, which indicates the COM-NO-NC terminals. The ohmmeter shows no value on the coil terminals. Was the whipped coil in the relay? I did not try to start the starter "briefly" because of the rain. Someone from my colleagues suggested a possible fault in the ignition socket. Of course this is also possible. Nevertheless, it seems that we are dealing rather with a break in duty. It remains to look for the starter relay and do the test "briefly". Where can you buy such a relay cheap? If the weather conditions improve, I will go back to testing. For now, I'm waiting for the weather to improve. Thank you for your interest in the topic so far.

As the display goes out, the ignition switch works and the clutch relay also. As I remember, I am not mistaken.

Check the incandescent bulb for power to the starter solenoid during startup. You will know whether it is a starter or not.

The thinner legs of the relay are usually a coil and it is not surprising that the thicker ohmmeter shows nothing.
If the relay opens the ignition-starter circuit, then one thick leg should show current after turning the ignition switch to start. Pass the cable plus to the other leg and if there is a slight sparking then the brushes have run out and if it turns off the ignition or switch on the clutch.

I think it's the ignition's fault. I had a similar problem but I left a pile of cash with electricians, which they exchanged, which even changed the battery. For me the problem was in the ignition switch but I was also immo. In general, a few staws went down the drain and the cost of the last repair is PLN 60. I also advise you to visit an electrician by calling ?

wisz wrote:

....

And what turned out? I have the same

widmo82 wrote:

And what turned out? I have the same

So take out the relay, ignition key and paperclip where there were thick pins from the relay. If the starter is good, it should spin.

widmo82 wrote:

wisz wrote:

....

And what turned out? I have the same

And what do you think is the same for you. Because one symptom is different damage. What and in what order you should check the above. If you don't feel up to it, give it to someone. Although you can always deny yourself and trade for a club. They start with the battery and ending with the starter. Along the way, of course, a few things.