Volkswagen Passat B6: Driver's Door Lock Issue and Battery Discharge

Hello, my problem with passat is that the key does not match the lock insert (but that's not what I mean now). And the central locking does not lock me when the "lock", the driver's door. In this condition I bought it. So I got to work. I took off the top door trim. I disconnected one ankle and a cord from it to disconnect it from the door. I took a break and not long ago when I wanted to open the driver's door they did not want to open. Even when unlocking the door by central. What do you think about it? What's the problem? I will add that my battery has also discharged. But I don't drive much lately.

I advise you to check the wiring harness at the threshold on the left side of the driver, there are often short circuits causing battery discharge, as well as interruptions in connections, moisture, patches, etc.

Yes, but why does the door close automatically

Edit. Good, it seems to me that the outer handle is not attached to the cable because it is loose and the door could not be opened from the outside only from the inside

Tomorrow I'm replacing the driver's door lock and main door handle. Maybe it will help. Meanwhile, I noticed a new problem. Does not remove the rear left door from the central one. Maybe the fault is actually the side of the wires. How does it work? Probably a voltmeter.

Normally, to check (at least) there are microswitches of the limit switches of all door locks, flaps, etc. This is done using the OBD2 tester, not any meter. You can at most check them yourself by looking at turning on / off the headliner light / boot lid by closing / opening the door / boot lid in turn. Each of the drives has a door control computer, the sign of which is simply a walking glass. As the power supply to the drive is lacking in the door nothing works except the speaker. You don't have to sweep everything so much.

Summarizes everything here.
In the driver's door I connected the new zip only to the ankle without fitting it;

The car closes all doors with the key
By using the key, the car does not open any doors
Using the central car closes all doors except the driver
Using the central car opens all the doors Being left rear opened 2 times out of 10

The same situation as without this lock

Direction indicators flash when interlocking and unlocking
All windows work (in the driver's door they worked before dismantling the door) only in the left rear ones it walks poorly but walks but you feel that something is wrong
As for the lights, they come on every time the door is opened except the flap
But the screen correctly shows the opening of all doors with the flap

I am really asking for help and I really need it because it matches my mother and me.
If necessary, I will buy this scanner only if it will help me for sure.

It is necessary to remove the insert and check the operation of the lock with a screwdriver. It is important that the vertical bolt in the corner of the glass goes loose.

Driver lock for replacement. The second door you take down, you measure the voltage with a 5W light bulb on the lock motor power when closing and opening. If it is a replacement, replace the second lock, if it is missing or the bulb only glows then check the cables in the door grommet and beyond.

You have a so-called grommet between the door and the body, there you have broken wires.

I took out the insert. By closing and opening the car with a screwdriver it closes and opens the entire car except the driver's lock which I just replaced for a replacement.
I don't think I need it because it looks like there is no signal to this lock, so something from an electrician.
Can I check it somehow, neon lamp like fuses? And can this fault be related to the lack of a fuse?

Ps. I will add that when I open the tailgate, there is no light on and there were two low fluid levels and ASP failure. But I think it has nothing to do with this castle so this repair is waiting in line

As from the central one, it means that the actuator has power supply. If you remove the insert and it goes both ways, it's probably obvious what is wrong. If he doesn't close the driver, he may have (or rather definitely has) an open door. You were supposed to look at the beam and what. There is no need to measure anything. In general, I am surprised that you still want to bother, eh ...