Hello, I am looking for a solution to a problem. I have Domoticz set up on a raspberry pi b3+, the other devices, often needing rework, would communicate wirelessly with the Raspberry. What I would like to connect: - lighting control - window contacts - temperature and humidity sensors - camera...

You can power it with batteries, e.g. with cheap cases for two or one 18650 cell, so-called power bank cases from aliexpress. For esp8266 you win Easyesp and set deep sleep for 5 minutes. An ESP configured in this way can run on good cells for up to two months.

If you are looking for a very compact power supply I found something else like this: . Admittedly, I've got some blue ones, there are 3.3, 5 and 12V versions, and there's a trafo inside too. How to connect - so it can't electrocute anyone or start a fire - these are Chinese toys. I've connected one ESP to such a power supply but I only test it when I'm in the area and away from flammable things.

Could you describe in simple terms the wiring diagram?

You have it on the housing. oj... I feel it would be better if a colleague buys some ready-made solutions.

I am referring to a solution with a battery, for example.

Deep sleep does not only work in Easyesp. If the author wants to use ESP for his own purposes he would better write his own application. On the other hand Easyesp could be an interesting solution especially as some protocols are already implemented ->

For lighting control, to be connected behind a switch, the best solution, were these modules? .

The RPi3 also has a BT4.0 interface and there are a variety of sensors e.g. temperature, humidity etc. battery powered sending data via BLE.

RPI3 B+ has BT4.2 With BT you have to keep in mind the power of the transmitter because this will determine the range -> and somehow I find it hard to imagine BT with a range of 10m (in open space) for domotics applications.

Taj as you wrote it all depends on the power of the transmitter in the sensor. The maximum power allowed by law is +20dBm. For such a sensor the range in open space is a few hundred metres and a building 2-3 floors. For a power of +8dBm it is about 50m in open space. Smart bands or other such devices that do not require a long range have a power of -2dBm or less. Here the range can indeed be only 10m.

I am struggling with the same problem as the author. I have several actuator modules on the ESP, and these are mains powered - no problem. Switching to batteries on the ESP is already a major problem. I wanted small devices with a decent design and a lifetime of 1 year. With data every 5 minutes this is unrealistic on an ESP. I opted for BT and Pi 3 for the temperature sensors, the first two sensors being the Xiaomi Mijia Bluetooth Temperature Humidity Sensor. There are scripts that read the temperature directly from these sensors. Unfortunately, there is a problem with the range - they hardly work through the ceiling, and only within a short distance on a given floor (through walls max. about 7m). I decided to test an iNode-based solution. I purchased one module and found that the range was the same. However, I later found out that by default the iNode works at -2dBm, but can be configured for 8dBm. At 8dBm, the iNode is already working for me through the ceiling and was losing at most every other frame. I wait 2 minutes for a readout, so I changed the standard 1s to 5s to reduce power consumption. For a correct reading I therefore need to catch 1 frame out of 24 sent. Reading via bash script in passive mode. I will most likely buy more of these lozenges.

How do I power the ESP8266 devices in a Domoticz system on a Raspberry Pi B3+?

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#1 17608349 06 Dec 2018 10:51

ociep14 ociep14

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Post #1
17608349 06 Dec 2018 10:51

Hello,
I am looking for a solution to a problem. I have Domoticz set up on a raspberry pi b3+, the other devices, often needing rework, would communicate wirelessly with the Raspberry. What I would like to connect:
- lighting control
- window contacts
- temperature and humidity sensors
- camera
I would like to make this as compact as possible, without having to run separate cables. Everything based on ESP8266 and relays. I am wondering how you have solved the issue of powering such devices. In the case of temperature and humidity sensors, I only need to take readings every e.g. 5 minutes. In this situation, will a battery power supply be satisfactory, i.e. will it maintain power for at least a month? How do I then program the ESP module Window/door contacts can also be powered in this way? Obviously for the light switches, I would like to fit the whole installation behind the switch. I have found an inverter .
Will it do the job of controlling the lighting. Please give me a hint on how to do such an installation correctly. I will be grateful to you for all practical comments.

Best regards
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#2 17608512 06 Dec 2018 12:39

kaczakat kaczakat

Level 34

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Post #2
17608512 06 Dec 2018 12:39

If you are looking for a very compact power supply I found something else like this:
.
Admittedly, I've got some blue ones, there are 3.3, 5 and 12V versions, and there's a trafo inside too. How to connect - so it can't electrocute anyone or start a fire - these are Chinese toys. I've connected one ESP to such a power supply but I only test it when I'm in the area and away from flammable things.

Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
#3 17608615 06 Dec 2018 13:47

ociep14 ociep14

Level 10

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Post #3
17608615 06 Dec 2018 13:47

Could you describe in simple terms the wiring diagram?
#4 17608637 06 Dec 2018 13:57

Anonymous Anonymous

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Post #4
17608637 06 Dec 2018 13:57

ociep14 wrote:
Could you describe the wiring diagram in simple terms?

You have it on the housing.

oj... I feel it would be better if a colleague buys some ready-made solutions.
#5 17608641 06 Dec 2018 13:59

ociep14 ociep14

Level 10

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Post #5
17608641 06 Dec 2018 13:59

I am referring to a solution with a battery, for example.
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#6 17608646 06 Dec 2018 14:03

xury xury

Automation specialist

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Post #6
17608646 06 Dec 2018 14:03

You can power it with batteries, e.g. with cheap cases for two or one 18650 cell, so-called power bank cases from aliexpress. For esp8266 you win Easyesp and set deep sleep for 5 minutes. An ESP configured in this way can run on good cells for up to two months.
#7 17608769 06 Dec 2018 15:26

Anonymous Anonymous

Level 1

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Post #7
17608769 06 Dec 2018 15:26

xury wrote:
.... To esp8266 you win Easyesp and set deep sleep for 5 minutes. An ESP configured in this way can run on good cells for up to two months.

Deep sleep does not only work in Easyesp. If the author wants to use ESP for his own purposes he would better write his own application. On the other hand Easyesp could be an interesting solution especially as some protocols are already implemented -> https://www.letscontrolit.com/wiki/index.php?title=EasyProtocols
#8 17608941 06 Dec 2018 17:04

ociep14 ociep14

Level 10

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Post #8
17608941 06 Dec 2018 17:04

For lighting control, to be connected behind a switch, the best solution, were these modules?
.
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#9 17609042 06 Dec 2018 17:49

TvWidget TvWidget

Level 38

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Post #9
17609042 06 Dec 2018 17:49

The RPi3 also has a BT4.0 interface and there are a variety of sensors e.g. temperature, humidity etc. battery powered sending data via BLE.
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#10 17609056 06 Dec 2018 17:58

Anonymous Anonymous

Level 1

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Post #10
17609056 06 Dec 2018 17:58

TvWidget wrote:
RPi3 also has a BT4.0 interface. ..

RPI3 B+ has BT4.2

With BT you have to keep in mind the power of the transmitter because this will determine the range -> https://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluetooth#Zasi%C4%99g and somehow I find it hard to imagine BT with a range of 10m (in open space) for domotics applications.
#11 17609125 06 Dec 2018 18:34

TvWidget TvWidget

Level 38

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Post #11
17609125 06 Dec 2018 18:34

Erbit wrote:
somehow I find it hard to imagine BT with a range of 10m (in open space) for domotics applications.

Taj as you wrote it all depends on the power of the transmitter in the sensor. The maximum power allowed by law is +20dBm. For such a sensor the range in open space is a few hundred metres and a building 2-3 floors. For a power of +8dBm it is about 50m in open space.
Smart bands or other such devices that do not require a long range have a power of -2dBm or less. Here the range can indeed be only 10m.
#12 17609688 06 Dec 2018 22:35

krzbor krzbor

Level 27

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Post #12
17609688 06 Dec 2018 22:35

I am struggling with the same problem as the author. I have several actuator modules on the ESP, and these are mains powered - no problem. Switching to batteries on the ESP is already a major problem. I wanted small devices with a decent design and a lifetime of 1 year. With data every 5 minutes this is unrealistic on an ESP. I opted for BT and Pi 3 for the temperature sensors, the first two sensors being the Xiaomi Mijia Bluetooth Temperature Humidity Sensor. There are scripts that read the temperature directly from these sensors. Unfortunately, there is a problem with the range - they hardly work through the ceiling, and only within a short distance on a given floor (through walls max. about 7m). I decided to test an iNode-based solution. I purchased one module and found that the range was the same. However, I later found out that by default the iNode works at -2dBm, but can be configured for 8dBm. At 8dBm, the iNode is already working for me through the ceiling and was losing at most every other frame. I wait 2 minutes for a readout, so I changed the standard 1s to 5s to reduce power consumption. For a correct reading I therefore need to catch 1 frame out of 24 sent. Reading via bash script in passive mode. I will most likely buy more of these "lozenges".
#13 17620069 11 Dec 2018 17:38

ociep14 ociep14

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Post #13
17620069 11 Dec 2018 17:38

I found an interesting tutorial on the web: Tutorial .
Such a sensor can be configured with Domoticz? What do you think of this solution?
#14 17620218 11 Dec 2018 18:41

Slawek K. Slawek K.

Level 35

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Post #14
17620218 11 Dec 2018 18:41

What do you mean by sensor? The whole system or just the reed switch itself? In fact it is both, the whole system with NRF24L01 can be connected to Domoticz via MySensors software, or the reed switch using ESP with ESPEasy software as well, there are many possibilities.
Using ESPEasy is simpler, you don't need a hardware gateway at the Raspberry as communication is via WiFi.

Best regards
#15 17624988 13 Dec 2018 19:25

ociep14 ociep14

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Post #15
17624988 13 Dec 2018 19:25

Please provide a wiring diagram for the module in the lighting box.
.
There is a two-wire cable in the box. How to solve the power supply issue.
#16 17625039 13 Dec 2018 19:40

Slawek K. Slawek K.

Level 35

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Post #16
17625039 13 Dec 2018 19:40

You have to have a third wire, if you have a properly done installation, you have to pull up the N wire to the box, because the L should already be in the box.

Greetings
#17 17631363 16 Dec 2018 17:07

ociep14 ociep14

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Post #17
17631363 16 Dec 2018 17:07

Can I ask for an explanation of how to connect a bulb (room light) + wall switch to specific inputs on this module?
#18 17631695 16 Dec 2018 19:16

Slawek K. Slawek K.

Level 35

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Post #18
17631695 16 Dec 2018 19:16

To the 2-pin connector is a 5V power supply, the 3-pin connector is a relay connector, where one is COM (common) and the other two are respectively NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed), The goldpin connector is serial. There is no input on the gpio so push button control is not possible, only via WiFi.

Greetings
#19 17631774 16 Dec 2018 19:40

ociep14 ociep14

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Post #19
17631774 16 Dec 2018 19:40

Do you know of any solution for wifi and manual control?
#20 17633010 17 Dec 2018 12:59

xury xury

Automation specialist

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Post #20
17633010 17 Dec 2018 12:59

ociep14 wrote:
Do you know any solution for control via wifi and manually?
.
Yes connection just like you connect a staircase switch.
On one side the staircase switch and on the other the relay contacts. The control can be alternated. The only inconvenience is the lack of real status information.
#21 17633859 17 Dec 2018 18:58

Anonymous Anonymous

Level 1

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Post #21
17633859 17 Dec 2018 18:58

xury wrote:
It can be powered by battery, e.g. using cheap casesòw for two or one 18650 cell so-called power bank cases from aliexpress. For esp8266 you win Easyesp and set deep sleep for 5 minutes. An ESP configured in this way can run on good cells for up to two months.

Not for relays. This is only useful for measurements.
#22 17643702 22 Dec 2018 12:57

ociep14 ociep14

Level 10

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Post #22
17643702 22 Dec 2018 12:57

I wanted to use the completed equipment (Wemos d1, relay, 230V-5V inverter) somehow. A wifi controlled socket came up as an idea. I'm a beginner, I made myself a supporting drawing to ask you guys if such a configuration has the right to work? I know you can buy off-the-shelf modules, but I'm treating this more as a learning to make my own designs. I don't connect anything to such voltage until I understand the mechanism of operation Thank you in advance for your valuable answers .
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Topic summary

The discussion addresses powering ESP8266-based devices integrated with Domoticz on a Raspberry Pi 3 B+. For compact installations without separate cabling, battery power is considered viable for low-frequency sensors like temperature and humidity, especially when using deep sleep modes (e.g., EasyESP) to extend battery life up to two months on quality 18650 cells. However, achieving a one-year battery life with ESP8266 is challenging due to power consumption. Alternatives such as Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) sensors (e.g., Xiaomi Mijia) connected via Raspberry Pi's BT4.2 interface are discussed, noting range limitations through walls and floors. For lighting control modules installed behind switches, powering requires proper wiring, ideally with a neutral (N) wire present in the switch box; two-wire setups complicate power supply. Relay modules with 5V power inputs and relay contacts (COM, NO, NC) are used for switching, controllable via WiFi but often lacking manual input buttons. Solutions combining WiFi control and manual switching are limited, with some setups mimicking staircase switch wiring. Ready-made power supplies and inverters (230V to 5V/3.3V) are mentioned but caution is advised due to safety concerns. Integration with Domoticz can be achieved using ESPEasy firmware for WiFi communication or MySensors with NRF24L01 for RF communication. Overall, the trade-offs between battery life, wireless range, power supply safety, and installation complexity are key considerations in designing ESP8266-based home automation devices with Domoticz on Raspberry Pi.
Summary generated by the language model.

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How do I power the ESP8266 devices in a Domoticz system on a Raspberry Pi B3+?

FAQ

TL;DR: Median ESP8266 deep-sleep node lasts 60 days on a 3000 mAh 18650 (“up to two months” [Elektroda, xury, post #17608646]); mains-powered relays demand isolated 5 V modules—test far from flammables [Elektroda, kaczakat, post #17608512] Combine battery sensors, 5 V relay boards, and Domoticz/MySensors for mixed power.

Why it matters: Choosing the right supply keeps sensors small, safe, and maintenance-free.

Quick-Facts • Deep-sleep current: 20–80 µA, active Wi-Fi burst: ≈120 mA [Espressif Datasheet]. • 3000 mAh 18650 → ≈50–70 days at 5-min reports [Elektroda, xury, post #17608646] • Compact 230 VAC→5 V modules ship in 3.3 V/5 V/12 V variants, cost ≈2 € [Elektroda, kaczakat, post #17608512] • BLE @ +8 dBm reaches ~50 m open air; +20 dBm spans several floors [Elektroda, TvWidget, post #17609125] • Relay coil draws ~70 mA at 5 V—battery unsuitable [Songle SRD-05V spec].

Quick Facts

What power options work best for ESP8266 nodes in a Domoticz home-automation setup?

Use two tiers: 1) Battery-driven ESP8266 sensors in deep-sleep for low-duty data (temperature, contacts). 2) Mains-powered ESP8266 + relay boards for continuous loads (lighting). This hybrid keeps maintenance low and avoids oversized batteries [Elektroda, thread, #17608646; #17608512].

How long will an ESP8266 sensor last on a single 18650 cell?

With deep-sleep set to 300 s and average 50 µA sleep current, a 3000 mAh cell runs ≈60 days; users reported “up to two months” [Elektroda, xury, post #17608646]

Can I put an ESP8266 relay module behind a wall switch fed only by two wires?

Not safely. You need Live (L) and Neutral (N) for the 5 V converter; a switch loop usually carries only L. Pull an N conductor into the box or use a battery-free radio switch elsewhere [Elektroda, Slawek K., #17625039].

Which compact 230 VAC→5 V supply is safest for in-wall use?

Choose an encapsulated, certified module (UL/CE) with built-in isolation, e.g., HLK-PM01. Hobby-grade “blue” open-frame boards work but must be potted and fused; one user tests them only “away from flammable things” [Elektroda, kaczakat, post #17608512]

How do I wire a 5 V relay board to a ceiling light?

Feed 5 V and GND to the two-pin power header. 2. Bring mains Live into COM on the relay. 3. Route NO to the lamp’s Live. Neutral goes straight to the lamp. The board’s 3-pin block holds COM/NO/NC [Elektroda, Slawek K., #17631695].

Is Bluetooth Low Energy a viable alternative to Wi-Fi sensors?

Yes for short-range rooms. BLE at +8 dBm covers ~50 m open air, +20 dBm several floors [Elektroda, TvWidget, post #17609125] ESP32 can act as BLE gateway; Domoticz scripts parse the packets [Elektroda, krzbor, post #17609688]

How do I integrate a low-power door/window sensor from Instructables with Domoticz?

Flash MySensors firmware on the NRF24L01 node and add a serial or Ethernet MySensors gateway to the Raspberry Pi; Domoticz auto-detects it [Elektroda, Slawek K., #17620218].

Is EasyESP required for deep-sleep mode?

No. Deep-sleep is an ESP8266 hardware feature. You can code it in Arduino IDE or use EasyESP “Sleep” setting for faster deployment [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17608769]

Can a battery supply drive a relay coil?

Not effectively. A single SRD-05V relay draws ~70 mA; an 18650 would empty in days, not months [Songle SRD-05V spec]. “Not for relays. This is only useful for measurements.” [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17633859]

How can I have both Wi-Fi control and a physical switch?

Wire the wall switch and relay contacts as a staircase (two-way) circuit: Live → switch → lamp, and in parallel Live → relay COM → NO → lamp. Either device toggles the light, but Domoticz won’t know manual state without extra sensing [Elektroda, xury, post #17633010]

Which wires should reach an in-wall automation module?

Minimum: Live (L), Neutral (N), and switched Live to the load. Earth (PE) passes through for metal boxes. Two-wire switch loops lack Neutral and can’t power electronics [IEC 60617].

3-step: How do I enable deep-sleep on ESP8266?

Connect GPIO16 to RST. 2. In code call ESP.deepSleep(300e6) for 5 min. 3. Power via low-IQ LDO (e.g., MCP1700) to keep sleep current below 80 µA [Espressif Datasheet].

What happens if GPIO16 isn’t tied to RST in deep-sleep setup?

The ESP8266 never wakes; it remains in permanent sleep until power cycled—an easy edge-case trap.