Heater Return Valves: Hexagon Socket Adjustment, Unscrew Valve, Improve Radiator Flow

Hello
I have a problem, or rather a query, I have valves on the return shown in the photo:

To the point, I marked the thread on which the cover cap comes in green, the key can be put on red, and the hexagon socket in blue and turned to the right or left. My question is, if I put the key on what I have marked in red, can I completely unscrew the inside of this valve and plug it with a screw-on plug (marked in green)?
I have the impression that the flow is poor, the radiators' pits are cold, the Allen adjustment probably does not work, I don't really have the patience for it anymore ... I just want to improve the flow. I messed up a bit with what I wrote, but I hope it is understandable.
Thanks in advance for any answers. Sorry if I posted my question in the wrong section. greetings

Hello, since the return valve is open to full and there is still poor circulation, maybe it is to blame for the supply valve, or some dirt clogged the supply valve and you have poor circulation. What is the installation? What is the source of heat?

You can do that

Open the return valve to the max. I suspect that the limited flow is influenced by the installation made of PP, not the return valve.

bake for everything 14KW. circulation pump 25/40 1 speed Installation of the PP pipe.
Maybe it is to blame for covering, or also for dust, although I'm only interested in whether I can wring out this interior, blind it and whether it will work. I already have enough of these valves, I would like to change all of them to ball valves because you can get crazy. By the way, at what point is the return valve open to full?

(as I burn in the stove, i.e. I start, I have, for example, 60 C at the exit, and the return may be 25 ... so something wrong with these returns, and after 15 minutes the return gets warm, but the supply temperature drops to 40 ... So it heats up quickly, flows worse, and cools down. And I would like a sensible circulation, on the furnace 60 return 50. Therefore, to my empty peasant mind, if I blow these inserts in the sense of the content of this return valve, the flow should be higher ????. The closed circuit installation (previously there was gas heating) worked well and the open circuit has problems.

masiej2 wrote:

(as I burn in the stove, i.e. I start, I have, for example, 60 C at the exit, and the return may be 25 ... so something wrong with these returns, and after 15 minutes the return gets warm, but the supply temperature drops to 40 ... So it heats up quickly, flows less well, and cools down.

The temperature drops because the pump is turned on, and since it does not heat up (there is a large heat consumption), the stove is too weak.
Enter the heating surface of the building, number and size (power) of radiators.

the pump is running all the time. It is not the fault of a poor stove or heaters.
I mean the flow itself. It takes too long, it is too weak, and I just want to increase it. Not to raise the pump to 2nd or 3rd gear, but to stay in 1st gear, but to increase the flow.

Higher flow means that your stove will cool down even faster. But if you insist so, then since unscrewing the flanges at full does not give you anything, then, as the previous speakers wrote, you have clogged somewhere or too small diameter of the pipes, or too weak a pump.
So:

Duduś74 wrote:

Enter the heating surface of the building, number and size (power) of radiators.

heating area about 95 m2. 3 heaters 120cm v22, 3 heaters 180cm v22, and 2 small ladders in the bathrooms.

14kW of boiler power is the "excess" power for this living area. Surely the cause of bad heating is poor flow. What are the radiator supply valves? If it is modern (with a thermostatic head), you can change the setting after removing the head. It may also be that the closure is OK, but the thermostatic head choked the flow because it sensed that the room has reached the set temperature (reducing the flow causes the radiator to become cool at the bottom, although generally more heat is needed from the legs than from the back) ). This may be the case sometimes, especially with oversized radiators. You need to check whether turning the thermostatic head to a higher temperature in the room will result in better heating at the bottom. If not, it is to blame (the thermostatic valve could also get fouled up) or too small cross-sections of the pipes.

Check the supply and return on all radiators to see if there are any big differences and how this will change when you turn the pump on at higher speed.

My radiators are mainly set to N or 7 (this is on the radiator supply) and on the return this "super" valve I do not know how to set, left or right? (hence the idea to twist the entire cartridge out, if anything is possible, in my opinion yes). The pump is on the return.
If you set the pump to 2nd or 3rd speed, the highest radiator, i.e. the ladder in the bathroom, stops heating, while the pipe that goes to the vessel starts to heat less in the middle.
so the supply heaters are warming up nicely, although the returns are cold. So, I repeat my "hello" question, can I unscrew the inside of these return valves and plug them? will this increase my expected flow so that the returns are also warm ??

Probably like all valves, by turning it to the left - we open, and right - we close. If it is a ball it is possible to make a turn by 90 *, if it is a regular one it is possible to make a few turns. The inside of the valve can be removed and plugged with a plug, but for this operation you need to drain the water from the system.

Thank you very much for the answer regarding the removal of the inside of the valve.
Now the question is, will removing it and blinding it increase the flow ??

Probably not much. Rather, I suppose some muck is blocking the drain somewhere and a rinsing could be done. And by the way, don't you hear "trickling" somewhere?

You can unscrew the middle from the valve and screw the cap (of course with the gasket) and the flow may increase a bit. But the rule is, if the stove is "boiling," and the radiators do not heat up or heat up poorly, you have problems with heat reception, i.e. radiators too small, pipes diameter too small, choked radiators, pipes, etc.
And if you can't reach the temperature on the stove, it means that the stove power is low.
If it is an all-purpose stove, take into account that the power and efficiency of the stove are given for a specific type of fuel. For the most part (I omit wood gasification boilers) power and efficiency are given for hard coal. What does this mean in practice, while burning everyone, the power of such a furnace drops from the alleged 80 percent to about 50%, and later comes as a surprise: the furnace is OK, and it heats poorly.

I don't hear any strange noises. What is better to leave or wring out?
I don't know anymore ...

The drain valve is for when it is necessary to dismantle the radiator, close both valves, put the cuvette under the radiator and take it off. We go with him outside the house and rinse.

Take a picture of this pump in the boiler room as it is installed. Check the filter is clean. If you can (you have shut-off valves), unscrew the 4 Allen screws and check that the impeller is not killed, something or melted and that it turns when the pump is turned on. Check the differential valve if the ball has not hung up after turning on the pump you should hear the ball hit.

Hello
1 The return radiator valve is correct and absolutely should not be replaced
ball valve - ball valve, designed for installation, e.g. hot utility water,
2 Return radiator valve, by unscrewing the hexagonal socket to the left, we open the max
100% nut - do not remove the insert
3 Poor flow on all radiators could indicate clogged filter in front
pump co
4 if the boiler does not reach the temperature, - too low boiler power, low calorific value
fuel.
5

Quote:

To the point, I marked the thread on which the cover cap comes in green, you can put the key on in red, and the hex key on the blue and turn it to the right or left

Who do you expect advice from - a person whom you need to explain what the return valve looks like?

Now my advice:
Open all return valves and check the filter in front of the CH pump, watch the temperature on all radiators.
Take a photo or draw a central heating pump connection diagram, write whether the system is old or new, write how many square meters you heat, and what is the thermal insulation of the building.
You write that increasing the pump speed limits the flow - this must be some error in the installation.

das160 wrote:

Now my advice:
Open all return valves and check the filter in front of the CH pump, watch the temperature on all radiators.
Take a photo or draw a central heating pump connection diagram, write whether the system is old or new, write how many square meters you heat, and what is the thermal insulation of the building.
You write that increasing the pump speed limits the flow - this must be some error in the installation.

Also check if you have a check valve in front of the pump?

If you have this check valve to transfer behind the pump.

I cleaned the filter, it's okay. The case looks like this, I am burning in the stove, I have 60 degrees on it. return around 25st. After 15 minutes, the return is around 45-50, but the temperature in the furnace also drops to 45-50.
My point is to make the flow better ...

Correct reaction. The conclusion is, the water must have a closed circuit somewhere in front of the radiators. There is no need to do without a drawing of the installation.

Exactly. Draw us.

If the supply and return temperatures are similar and the radiators are only slightly warm, does most of the water return in a shorter way?

Hello

Quote:

The case looks like this, I am burning in the stove, I have 60 degrees on it. return around 25st. After 15 minutes, the return is around 45-50, but the temperature in the furnace also drops to 45-50.
My point is to make the flow better ...

1 A greater flow takes energy from the boiler to the radiators, where the energy is transferred to the room, and cold water returns - most often it is a difference of about 20 oC, e.g. 70/50
2 In your case, the boiler has too low power, since the temperature drops from 60 to 45 after the radiators are energized - and no greater flow will do anything here, because the temperature has dropped on the boiler, where to get the energy to power the radiators if there is no heat in the boiler?
3 You have some mistake, but without photos or a detailed sketch, I will not help you,
4 Write whether the system is old or new, write how many square meters you heat, and what is the thermal insulation of the building, how many radiators you have - these are important data
5 If you have automatic head radiator valves, unscrew the heads and check that the needle is not seized and that it returns to the open position.
6 If you had a problem with the flow, the temperature in the boiler would increase - no energy consumption,
7 Your problem is elsewhere, so please describe your installation.

Unfortunately, I will not do the drawing, because the installation is 10 years old, I have no idea how the pipes go, etc. There is no sense in digging that far.
So what, set all of them to the highest flow, i.e. N, the lower valves on the hex key to the maximum left, and this will be the highest flow. I just mean that the radiators should be all warm, top and bottom.

Quote:

So what, set all of them to the highest flow, i.e. N, the lower valves on the hex key to the maximum left, and this will be the highest flow. I just mean that the radiators should be all warm, top and bottom.

This will be the greatest flow, assuming the control valves are operational, of course.
However, as you wrote yourself, the temperature in the boiler drops to 45oC, where will you get the energy to heat the radiators?
The flow distributes the energy to all radiators, but it has to take it from the boiler and the boiler is cold for you.

Hmm, I will throw something more than 1 piece of wood into the cauldron ?
well, what if they are not operational? so if I unscrew the interior from the return valves, the flow should improve, right ??

You have denied this increase in flow. The boiler, as colleagues write, has an allowance that the temperature drops for a while, it is probably normal, because the boiler returns cold from the system. Aren't you trying to smoke all day with that one piece of wood? Do you have any knowledge of how this boiler heated in previous seasons?