Optimizing Immergas Victrix EXA 24 X1 ERP Stove Settings: CAR V2 Controller, Gas Efficiency

Hello, I have had an Immergas Victrix EXA 24 X 1 ERP stove since October, controlled by a CAR V2 controller. I have about 190m2 for heating. The house is about 30 years old: external walls are: (hollow brick (MAX), inside suprema, brick) insulated 15 years ago with 5 cm polystyrene. All windows replaced 4 years ago with plastic ones, the roof insulated with mineral wool 2 years ago. The house only radiators without underfloor heating. The question, of course, is how to optimally set the stove so that it burns as little gas as possible. Counting the month of December, maintaining the temperature in the rooms between 19.5C-20.5C, I have an average of 15m/day at the outside temperature. between average approx. 0st. I have already set the controller differently once with a 3.5 curve, then I tried with a smaller one, e.g. 1.5. I had the offset at 0, then I turned on AUTO ON and OFFSET was jumping (it was -14, 10, 2). temp. min of the furnace set at 30 degrees. High combustion all the time, once even at -10 degrees Celsius at night, the combustion turned out to be 19 m3 / day. I know that every house is different and different settings work well, but I am asking for advice on what other settings I can try to reduce fuel consumption.

The amount of gas burned is the effect of heat demand.
This demand depends on:

1. Heat losses (through walls, roof, floor, windows, doors and ventilation).
Rather, you won't change anything here quickly in the winter, and it brings the greatest savings. Go to Cieplowlasciwie.pl and calculate the heat demand of your home. Perhaps the demand is so high that nothing or little can be done about it.

2. The size of the heated building, the size of the heated area.
You can turn off the heating in unused rooms.

3. Expected temperature.
Each increase of the temperature in the house by 1'C results in approx. 5% increase in fuel consumption. You can try to convince your family that it is worth lowering the temperature in the rooms a bit.

4. The method of heat distribution.
If you have a super modern installation (read tubes thinner than a finger), the boiler starts to clock when heating, i.e. it often turns on and off during heating. This causes the boiler to operate with much lower efficiency. The higher the minimum power of the boiler, the greater the clock speed, and in the case of this boiler this power is not the smallest.
In this case, the best would be old, steel, thick pipes with a large amount of water in the system, i.e. a large volume and high heat accumulation.
Describe your installation and specify how much water is in it.
The size of the radiators is also important - the selection of their size to the supply and return parameters as well as the power demand. Write what kind of radiators they are, how big, what area of the room they heat.

5. Heating control method.
A compromise must be found here, because each type of control has pros and cons as well as certain requirements.
Weather control allows for the highest efficiency of gas combustion, but in the case of installations with a small load and low thermal accumulation and a boiler with a high minimum power, it causes the boiler to start clocking and start heating with low efficiency.
We know you have a weather regulator, and is there also a room regulator?
Are thermostatic valves fitted to the radiators?

6. Boiler parameter settings.


Without all this information, it will be difficult to advise what to do to make it more economical. But I warn you right away that do not count on big savings, because these mainly result from the energy demand of the house, i.e. from what is included in points: 1, 2 and 3
Point 4 can bring noticeable benefits, but it requires a lot of investment, which does not always make economic sense.
Point 5 gives a small saving in heating, but sometimes you can change something here at a small cost.
Things are different with point 6. Sometimes it gives big savings if the settings were totally messed up. But sometimes they don't bring any results.

Thanks Plumpi for the reply. I will try to add additional information. I got the following result on the website.

As for the installation, I have steel pipes, about 2 cm in diameter, water in the entire installation, probably about 250 l. I've heard a lot about unfavorable timing and here's the question of how to set the stove so that it clocks as little as possible? I have old aluminum radiators with thermostatic valves in the rooms:

, the area of the rooms that heat is on average one rib per 1m2.
I have a CAR V2 controller and an external probe connected to the furnace control.

If you haven't made any mistake in the data and the calculations of cielewlasciwie.pl are correct, they are not very optimistic.
41000 kWh is a lot of energy.
1 m3 of gas from the network is about 11 kWh of energy.
The boiler has an efficiency of 90-95% Let's assume an average of 93%
The cost of 1 m3 of gas is approx. PLN 2
Now let's count:
41000 / 93 * 100 = 44086 kWh
So much energy in the form of fuel must be supplied to obtain 41,000 kWh of usable energy with a boiler efficiency of 93%

44086 / 11 = approx. 4008 m3 of gas
At a price of PLN 2 for 1 m3, it gives us 4008 * PLN 2 = PLN 8016 for the heating season.
This is how much, according to your calculations, it will cost you to heat this house.

I'm afraid that you will get almost nothing with the settings, and you have to approach energy consumption in a different way. The first thing is better insulation of the house. Perhaps limiting the temperature in unused rooms, but also without exaggeration so as not to dampen them.

Thanks Plumpi for the answer, but I noticed errors in my calculations and in my post I inserted a new result from the website. Can you take a look again and tell me what it means? And one more question about radiators, do you think replacing them with newer (stronger) ones will help?

It's hard for me to comment on your results because I don't know your house.

Are you asking if the radiators are suitable?
What temperature of water in central heating did you use on the coldest days so that the house was warmed up?

Plumpi wrote:

It's hard for me to comment on your results because I don't know your house.

I wrote about my house in the first post, what else can I add to help in the analysis?

This year I started to burn with gas, before that I used coal in a 24kW furnace with a CO temperature of 40-50 degrees. and he managed. About 3.5 tonnes of coal came out. for the heating season, at home around 21st. Now, as for the temperature of the water in the central heating system, on the coldest days it was about 55 degrees. My stove now heats up once, then turns off and turns on again. How to set it so that it clocks as little as possible? I'm wondering whether to insulate the walls of the house with polystyrene, e.g. 5 cm, what savings can it bring?

If on the coldest days 55'C was enough for the power supply, there is no need to replace the radiators.
Good wall insulation is essential. 5 cm of polystyrene is definitely not enough. But it is even more important to insulate the highest ceiling or roof if you have an attic. Insulation of such a roof with 25-30 cm wool is now a standard.

In the analysis, what you enter in the following fields may help

As for the insulation of the building, I already have 5 cm and I wanted to add, for example: 5 cm (will the heat effect be much greater by adding 10 cm?). The attic is insulated with 25 cm mineral wool.
In the analysis of cielowlasciwie.pl, I provided:

The data you provided shows that the heating costs will amount to approx. PLN 5.5 thousand. PLN and this is already a very real amount for gas heating for such a house.
The daily consumption also coincides with these calculations.
Set the heating curve so that it is as low as possible and that the house is warmed up. If the boiler clocks too much, you need to raise the heating curve so that the boiler heats with a higher temperature. It is important that the return water temperature does not exceed 57'C, because then the boiler will stop working in condensation. The lower this temperature is, the higher the efficiency of the boiler, but let's not exaggerate, these are not huge savings. In the case of a radiator installation, you can save up to 10%.
If you had floorstanding, there would be more savings.
Certainly, better insulation of the building would be useful. External blinds can also reduce heat loss. Maybe insulation of the floors on the ground floor.
The only question is how long the investment will pay off.

Thanks for the answer. I will try to make the heating curve as low as possible and to keep the house warm. And what is the purpose of setting the OFFSET parameter or enabling the AutoA (self-adaptation) function? And what effect can the fan speed have on heating, for me, from what I've read, it is factory set to max 3 and you can often hear a gentle noise of water in the radiators. Does it make sense to reduce the speed in this furnace, e.g. to 2. Will the radiators heat better if the water flows slower?

Hello everyone interested in the subject of the stove, the Immergas Victrix Exa 24 boiler. Since I do not know anyone who has such a model, I decided to log in and look for support and your professional opinion.
I have not found anywhere how you set the parameters: S0, S1, S2, S3, S5, S6, t0, t1 ??? I would like my furnace not to clock, but to work non-stop at the lowest possible power, but despite a year of fun with the furnace, I fail. However, I managed to drastically reduce LPG consumption from 22 liters to 12 liters per day at the same temperature in the house, 20-22 degrees, depending on the room. The stove is for CO only. House 717 m3 of heated area, around 300 m2 on the floor.
For me, S0=900, S1=3500, S2=900, S3=900, S5=20, S6=40 t0=0, t1=84. There is also an option to modify the pump power, although I would prefer it to be electronic as it is now.
The manual states that its minimum power is 5.5 kW.
What else should I do to reduce the boiler power??? because I do not want to change the stove, because it is a proven and trouble-free model: it is a pity that its power does not start from 3kW as in the previous 2i series.

Hello, I also have an Immergas Victrix Exa 24 boiler. Please explain what the following settings mean and how they can be changed.

S0=900, S1=3500 ,S2=900, S3=900, S5=20, S6=40 t0=0, t1=84.

Good day. I am not a professional, nor do I professionally deal with heating or building systems. However, I love modern technologies used in the construction industry. So today you can have a very large HOUSE and incur operating costs as if too small So I will try to help, although I also need the support of a PROFESSIONAL
(When I was a young boy, I bought my first FIAT 126p car. It burned 6 liters of petrol with a capacity of 594 cm3 and at the same time my older friend bought a Passat 1.9 TDI, which burned 4.5 liters of diesel fuel and then diesel fuel was 2x cheaper than petrol: that's when I became inspired by technical innovations).
Immergas Victrix Exa is a modern drive unit with a maximum usable thermal efficiency of 107.8%: it has a modulated burner, an electronically modulated circulation pump and uses the phenomenon of condensation and WE must be able to take full advantage of it
Let's treat it as an experiment that can bring radical benefits
When the service technician connected the stove to me, he showed me how to change the service settings to adapt the boiler to my installation Another service technician also showed my cousin how to change the parameters of the boiler, but he has a 700 m2 HOUSE (guest house) and another Junkers Cerapur Comfort 28 kW stove, but you can follow him
The manual shows that our stove works most effectively when the supply temperature is 40°C and the return temperature is 30°C at 30% load. Under no circumstances must the outlet temperature exceed 50°C for the furnace to condense. Settings: point 3.8 electronic card programming page 28 of the manual. I suggest :
1. Temp. of water in the boiler 45°C is already hot, so we will also set the CO at the beginning. 2. Minimum power wu S0=900. 3.S1=3500. 4.S2=900. 5.S3=900. 6.S4 ignition power bz=2000. 7.S5=20. 8.S6=45 but ultimately we will decrease this parameter. 9.S7=0.bz 10.S8=0 and we need to change the parameter PO=1. (here we will look for the optimal setting). rest bz. Next, let's move on to the parameter t0=4 (here we will mainly look for very good settings). t1=84.
When you are ready, Mr. Mariusz, please let me know: I will help
PS.1. Before installing a new boiler/stove, it is mandatory to rinse the radiators, because they collect sludge, dirt, rust, etc. or to install new ones: especially when switching from an open to a closed installation
PS2. Nowadays, in new houses and for new installations, suitable liquids are used instead of water. They have inhibitors, anti-foams, anti-corrosion agents and better heat transfer
PS.3. In general, these stoves are intended for very large houses or houses where there is a large inertia, i.e. a lot of fluid - the factor in the system, i.e. like mine, because I have floor and master, because thick pipes and large radiators. In such houses, you cannot afford to cool down the liquid in the system, because the costs of reheating will be huge, and these are the most common causes of rapid gas consumption. With these settings, gas consumption can be reduced by at least 1/3. In addition, under no circumstances should it exceed 15m3/day if it works non-stop, i.e. max 450m3/month. Ultimately, with a very good setting of the stove, we should go below 10m3/day, i.e. about 300m3 per month.
Regards AG from Świnoujście.

Andy G. wrote:

Hello everyone interested in the subject of the stove, the Immergas Victrix Exa 24 boiler. Since I do not know anyone who has such a model, I decided to log in and look for support and your professional opinion.
I have not found anywhere how you set the parameters: S0, S1, S2, S3, S5, S6, t0, t1 ??? I would like my furnace not to clock, but to work non-stop at the lowest possible power, but despite a year of fun with the furnace, I fail. However, I managed to drastically reduce LPG consumption from 22 liters to 12 liters per day at the same temperature in the house, 20-22 degrees, depending on the room. The stove is for CO only. House 717 m3 of heated area, around 300 m2 on the floor.
For me, S0=900, S1=3500, S2=900, S3=900, S5=20, S6=40 t0=0, t1=84. There is also an option to modify the pump power, although I would prefer it to be electronic as it is now.
The manual states that its minimum power is 5.5 kW.
What else should I do to reduce the boiler power??? because I do not want to change the stove, because it is a proven and trouble-free model: it is a pity that its power does not start from 3kW as in the previous 2i series.

Hello
Change t0= 600 (or 10 min) if the furnace is clocking. With the parameters you have changed (S0, S2) you have already reduced the power to min (from 5.5 KW to approx. 3 KW - natural gas consumption approx. 0.33 m3/h). After these changes, the service technician should adjust the air-gas relationship.
Regards
Rysiek

Good morning, Mr. Rysiek. Thank you very much for your comment. You confirmed that it is impossible to reduce its power any more, that with the settings I gave, the stove works from 3kW and not from 5.5kW. (the manual states that its minimum power is 5.5kW) Apparently my house needs less energy than 3kW/h despite its large size. 3kWx24=72kWh/day. 5.5kWx24=132kWh/day.
I am not looking for gas savings, because I am already SUPER happy, but I am looking for technical solutions so that the stove does not run. (clocks : turns on and off which is bad). I can even decide to change the nozzle to a smaller one by the service technician, but I don't know if it will help (if it makes sense) or I will leave it as it is. In September I have a stove service, so until then I will discuss with my service technician or I will sell it and buy one whose power starts from 2kW because I use the "stove" only for central heating.

1. It is a pity that you did not read my post carefully, because I do not have natural gas and I use LPG (autogas) from the tank and not propane. LPG is 2.5 times more efficient than gz.
2. Thanks to the fact that I changed the factory values to my own, I use about 12 liters of LPG instead of 22 liters.
3. Please specify what settings you have on your EXA 24. and whether your stove clocks. ??? that's what I'll be referring to.
Greetings Andrzej.

Andy G. wrote:

Good morning, Mr. Rysiek. Thank you very much for your comment. You confirmed that it is impossible to reduce its power any more, that with the settings I gave, the stove works from 3kW and not from 5.5kW. (the manual states that its minimum power is 5.5kW) Apparently my house needs less energy than 3kW/h despite its large size. 3kWx24=72kWh/day. 5.5kWx24=132kWh/day.
I am not looking for gas savings, because I am already SUPER happy, but I am looking for technical solutions so that the stove does not run. (clocks : turns on and off which is bad). I can even decide to change the nozzle to a smaller one by the service technician, but I don't know if it will help (if it makes sense) or I will leave it as it is. In September I have a stove service, so until then I will discuss with my service technician or I will sell it and buy one whose power starts from 2kW because I use the "stove" only for central heating.

1. It is a pity that you did not read my post carefully, because I do not have natural gas and I use LPG (autogas) from the tank and not propane. LPG is 2.5 times more efficient than gz.
2. Thanks to the fact that I changed the factory values to my own, I use about 12 liters of LPG instead of 22 liters.
3. Please specify what settings you have on your EXA 24. and whether your stove clocks. ??? that's what I'll be referring to.
Greetings Andrzej.

I read it carefully, it doesn't matter the type of fuel (different nozzle diameters - pressure and flow rate), the power is the same.
Please pay attention to the parameter S2 - 900 and S3 - 900, S2 sets the "min. CH power", S3 "max. CH power" - what results from this setting?
Please read: https://forum.muratordom.pl/showthread.php?19...rgas-Victrix-X-2-v-2011-ubrania-opinie-porady
Regards
Rysiek

Thank you, Mr. Rick, for your reply I will educate myself systematically and was looking for very good solutions. It was you who confirmed that in this model (EXA24) you can achieve lower power (about 3kW) than the factory-set 5.5kW. Also, you were the only one on the forum who suggested the t0 parameter to me. (as well as "S" parameters).
It was also my service technician who showed me the way to adapt the stove to the installation. Thank you gentlemen for this
Maybe in a year or two they will build a natural gas thread in my estate I WILL RETURN And yes, I am SUPER happy that I managed to reduce LPG consumption from 22 liters to 12 liters for a house with 717 m3 of heated area. And I'm very happy that I don't have to smoke any eco... or pellets. :)

I was tempted by this model because that's what I was advised by PEOPLE who have been using Immergas for about 20 years, and the reliability, 5-year warranty and low price make Victrix a SUPER product
Greetings to all Immergas users and forum members Andrew :)

Ps. 1. Nevertheless, I noticed that NO ONE gives how his parameters are set? And what did he do to drastically reduce gas consumption? Would I be the first??? PRECURSOR ???
2. And what did HIS stove stop clocking?
Maybe someone will find my posts useful.
END I wish you all the best

Andy G. wrote:

1. It is a pity that you did not read my post carefully, because I do not have natural gas and I use LPG (autogas) from the tank and not propane. LPG is 2.5 times more efficient than gz.
2. Thanks to the fact that I changed the factory values to my own, I use about 12 liters of LPG instead of 22 liters.
3. Please specify what settings you have on your EXA 24. and whether your stove clocks. ??? that's what I'll be referring to.

What do you mean when you write that LPG is 2.5 times more efficient than natural gas?
We can talk about efficiency only in the context of costs and the amount of energy obtained.
The fact that in the volatile phase in the same volume, natural gas will have less calorific value, because it contains fewer carbon and hydrogen atoms that are subject to oxidation. However, the heating power and the minimum power are not determined by gas, but by air. Regardless of whether we use propane, LPG or natural gas, the amount of air does not change, and the calorific value of one gas over the other is compensated by a different diameter of the nozzle. This nozzle causes that a smaller volume of gas with a higher calorific value is fed into the combustion chamber.

You will not drastically reduce the minimum power and I advise against any combination with the gas unit, because it may end with the boiler exploding. Also, don't count on any service technician to persuade you to make such combinations, for which he will face serious consequences. Apart from the possibility of losing powers and authorizations, in the worst case scenario, it may end with a meeting with the prosecutor.

If the boiler has too high a minimum power and clocks strongly, you should think about increasing the accumulation capacity of the installation, e.g. by adding a buffer.
If the house has floor heating, you can artificially extend the clock cycles by adding room control and introducing daily lowering and raising the room temperature so that the floor heating has time to give up energy, and then need to be replenished for a longer period of time.

Following someone else's settings is pointless, because every house is different and the installation is different.

Yet another digression.
Why do you use LPG instead of propane for heating purposes?
After all, LPG is more expensive, because its price includes excise duty. All car fuels are subject to excise duty. On the other hand, fuels for heating purposes are exempt from excise duty.
In addition, propane-butane has a problem with outgassing, because butane evaporates at a temperature close to 0'C, and propane at -42'C. Therefore, in a free-standing tank, there will be a lot of problems with butane degassing. Only underground tanks allow the use of such a mixture.
LPG (a mixture of propane and butane) used in cars does not have this problem because the gas is supplied to the evaporator in the liquid phase and the evaporator is heated by the hot engine coolant.
In the case of free-standing tanks for heating purposes, the external temperature of the air determines the evaporation.

Good day. Mr. Plumpi, you are a "specialist", so please help Mr. Marioosz1 with the settings of the stove, because I am already delighted with the current parameter settings, because they brought measurable benefits than the factory settings. This is what ALL service technicians say: please adjust the parameters of the furnace/boiler to your own installation.
Please don't reply to my post because I don't want that

Moderated By piracik:

3.1.9. Don't be ironic or mean to the other side of the discussion. Please respect dissent and other opinions on the forum.
3.1.11. Don't post messages that add nothing to the discussion. They are misleading, dangerous or do not solve the user's problem.

As I wrote to my friend in private. Lowering the power below the manufacturer's recommended not allowed and dangerous!
I thought I made myself clear.
Due to dangerous advice, I close the topic and give my colleague the first warning.