Central Heating Water Temp Issues in Block of Flats: CO Meters, 52°C vs 80°C Input, 25°C Return

Can anyone tell me why this is happening ... I live in a block of flats, I have CO meters in my box. The meter shows that the CO water input is at 52 degrees, while the neighboring pipe has a temperature of 80 degrees. The neighbor, on the other hand, has 52 degrees on the return and I have 25. The heaters are turned on and the apartment is still underheated ...

The neighbor is fed from the same riser?

Is that the same building? Probably the whole building is supplied from one heat exchanger (sometimes long, multi-cage blocks have 2 CO connections). This is weird at all. Certainly these 80 degrees is too much (maybe if it were 20 or even 25 degrees below zero, the 80 degrees on the power supply would be appropriate). 25 on return - this is much less than body temperature. I see something that either cold water is getting somewhere and mixed with the heating one (hence the lower temperature), or the flow is so low there that the water cools down immediately (probably the pipe is in a cold place). In any case, something is wrong with the installation. Once in a building I encountered such a problem that in some rooms the flow was so low (silted branches) that the radiators did not heat up at normal parameters, and when the exchanger was overregulated and the supply was given at about 80 degrees, they started to heat up like Satan and to boil.

Roksa17 wrote:

The neighbor, on the other hand, has 52 degrees on his return

If the neighbor (because you are connected to one riser?) Turns off the heater, what is the temperature at your place?

Rezystor240 wrote:

Roksa17 wrote:

The neighbor, on the other hand, has 52 degrees on his return

If the neighbor (because you are connected to one riser?) Turns off the heater, what is the temperature at your place?

I'll turn it off today and check it, but it was actually the last one and I was then 82 degrees, when it started, the temperature dropped to 52 ...

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My counter is number 104 ...

Low flow in your part and high flow in his. Valves with red knobs are used to regulate the flow. It's best to ask the building administrator to send someone who knows and will adjust. Shooting just one / two can disrupt the rest and then the fun with the neighbors begins. It may also be that your radiators are overly choked.

Roksa17 wrote:

it was really the last one and I was 82 degrees then, when it started, the temperature dropped to 52 ...

As for me, you are giving some abstract data.
What 82 degrees of heating water ?? Under such conditions, the radiators would be hot and could burn you if you touch them.
You may be reading some other data and mistaking it for flow and return temperatures in degrees Celsius.

In general, it looks like your neighbor uses more water than you do, that is, has a higher temperature. Your water flow may be limited or the regulation of the block system is so messed up that there is not enough water for your apartment. If each of the neighbors regulates the flows on their own, then there can be circuses of this type.

No matter how the flow is choked, the flow temperature should be the same.
The return temperature depends on the flow. But on such a short section of the supply, cooling down by 30 * C is almost impossible.

Take a picture a little higher as it is on the power supply. Although there are probably no miracles there.
Check that the cable from the heat meter goes to your tube. Maybe they are swapped?
Check if the feed tube 104 is in fact yours.

Now there was a nice option ... Me, the neighbor on both sides of the central heating temperature. Supply the same, return too ... Only his apartment on our floor had 50 on the power supply and 20 on the return ......

piracik wrote:

No matter how the flow is choked, the flow temperature should be the same.

My experience shows that the flow is important for the supply temperature, because if I did not have the right casing, the farthest radiator was noticeably cooler than those closest to the boiler through which more water was overflowing than it should have been. In other words, the farthest radiator received too little hot water and at the power input to the radiator, the plate was noticeably cooler at the valve insert, despite the fact that the radiator was open to the maximum. Only after proper blocking, the farthest radiator started to heat much more effectively.
Only with me there is no constant supply of boiler water to the heaters at a constant temperature, because the boiler is timing, so the conditions are a bit different.

piracik wrote:

But on such a short section of the supply, cooling down by 30 * C is almost impossible.

In this context, reducing the temperature to such a range seems virtually impossible, and the reported boiler water temperatures of 82 degrees are virtually unrealistic at temperatures above zero.

However, in the context of the general underheating of the apartment, it is most often due to improper water flows through a specific part of the installation, because the radiators in other rooms or the neighbor consume too much water, more than the real demand of these radiators.
Although you should consider why the neighbor unscrewed the flows at home too much, he probably noticed the problems with heating himself, he started to regulate himself, which improved himself and hurt his neighbors. Maybe it is the result of a poorly designed installation.

That is why I prefer my own installation, because if necessary, I myself decide what and how to do it and I am not dependent on the good or bad will of my neighbor. If I screw up something myself, I can only blame myself, but with such joint installations, you can blame a neighbor who can completely ignore us, and without the good will of all neighbors, there may be a problem with finding a common solution, because often, where there are 6 cooks there nothing to eat

BUCKS wrote:

My experience shows that the flow has a bearing on the leaving water temperature

The longer the installation, the greater the influence of the flow.
Me from the text @ Roksa17 I concluded that he is measuring the supply temperature on the heat meter, i.e. right behind the common collector. The sensor there is 20cm from a common point. A temperature difference in the flow is practically impossible. Not to that extent.

I did the test, and ... I turned the radiators to the maximum, I have 7 of them in my apartment. It was going on for over an hour. They were hot, you couldn't even touch them. The indications on the sensonic meter were as follows: current flow 0.696 cubic meters per hour, current power 5.934 kW, supply temperature 72, return temperature 65. Then I turned the valves on the radiators to three, i.e. 20 degrees in the apartment and the parameters were as follows: 0.332, power 2.745, temperature 71 on the supply and 64 on the return. Then I started to turn the Herza valve under the counter, but I have no idea which way the flow increases and which it decreases. When the valve was twisting, I thought that the flow would be larger and I got the following parameters: the temperature dropped to 66 degrees, the power to 2.745 ... Advise me how to set this trash so that it would be economical and warm. I don't know if higher flow with less temperature loss is good or bad?