Partially Cold Radiators in Top Floor Apartment: Addressing Low Heat in Danfoss Everis Thermostats

I have this problem: I live in a block of flats (low block, top floor) and next season some of the radiators in the apartment do not fully heat up - a few hot ribs, the ones closest to the bundles, the rest is summer or even cold. In addition, the radiators are warmer upstairs than downstairs (downstairs, barely lukewarm!)

The radiators have manual air vents, nothing is air-tight, all radiators are thermostatically controlled (mainly Danfoss Everis).

The problem mainly concerns two radiators, but one heats better and the other heats much worse.

From the administration's point of view, the case is as follows: in their opinion, my apartment is quite far from the junction, and the SPEC pump on the junction is not able to provide heat to my apartment.

Let us also add that the plumbing in the building is crying out to heaven for vengeance, the radiators are set anyhow, people dismantle the radiators, put others in their place, without looking at their power, and install thermostatic valves without any regulation. Free American and no control.

I have been doing various tests recently - I took off the thermo heads to eliminate the suspicion of a thermostat malfunction. After removing the heads, no difference. I have the setting on the coldest radiator on a scale of 1-7, with the second radiator it is worse when it comes to regulation and reading (older Danfoss), so I don't know.

Oh, and let's add that the weakest, coldest radiator has a riser shared with its neighbor. Ie. he has a riser in his house, two branches stick out of it, one for him and the other, through the wall - to my semi-cold radiator.

What can you do in such a situation? The administration claims that this is a SPEC problem, because the pump in the node is theirs, and adm. it is not able to force them to mount a stronger one, because they are supposedly cheeky and say they will not do it. SPEC, on the other hand, does not want to talk to me, because it says that their client is a cooperative and that they have a problem somewhere on the risers.

I propose to the administration various things: putting small pumps on the weakest risers that would push the water up, walking on the floors and regulating the radiators to people so that they do not steal all the heat ... Unfortunately, they are immune to my advice and the effect is that I have two semi-cold heaters at the start of winter.

Could someone advise me what could be the cause of the problem and how to remedy it, what to persuade the administration to do?

Just one piece of advice at the moment: take your neighbors in your heating riser while the mpec is heating and ask them to turn off the heaters for an hour. You must be open to full power supply and return. First you have to check whether it is warming up at this time, if so, you know, the crises pictured below. but there is also a hope that during this hour the flow will be so big and fast that it will blow through your installations and then it can even roar ... it is so timely .... Let you know what and how it went. we will advise.
greetings

Hello!
The administration is there to provide you with warmth !!! Their duty is to deal with the topic, they charge you for it. You do not care if the pump is not enough, it may not be at all. I got nervous. I used to work in a cooperative and it was our duty .Write magazines nothing on your face, scare your TV. Hands drop when you read about treating a client who pays.

Gucio: You are absolutely right, but the administration is completely overwhelming me. Nothing helps. They are completely bulletproof. They say one thing, do something else (or don't), they don't solve the problem, they mislead me. The case was close to the president of the cooperative, who also deceived me. I have no strength for them, my hands are falling down, for two years (!) They have failed to do anything about it. Their only patent was to remove my thermo valve and insert the ball, because apparently the ball has a larger opening ... I tell you, you can cut yourself.

For now, they have figured out that they will change the setting on the radiators of the neighbor with whom I share the riser (apparently he has a huge radiator). But, of course, it is known that it is a long way from an idea to industry, and nothing can be done right away ... Once I force them to actually turn off the neighbor's valve, I will let you know what effects it brought.

radoslav: thanks for the advice, it makes sense to me. But I will follow Gucio's advice and I will try to convince the administration to do so ... I will let you know how the action proceeded.

If the first sections of the heater (those on the branch side) heat up and the others do not, it means AIR. If there is no airflow, this symptom is a bit strange. When it is accompanied by a situation when the radiators are warm (barely) at the very top and already half cold, it means that the water flow is very weak (the heating medium cools down immediately after it enters the radiator). It may be a silted orifice, maybe the radiators on the lower floors are initially set to "full" and, as a result, heat is not supplied to the upper storeys well (and the last floor hardly heats up), and it may also be the case that the inlet valve has been screwed on (thus heat goes up badly). More than once this is the cause. In the block where I live, they wanted to save heat by heating the staircases, so that more heat would go to the apartments (the apartments are usually overheated - especially in spring it is hot), vertical valves for staircases were screwed. The effect is that the heating of staircases works only up to the 2nd floor (9-story building), because it has been turned off so that the heating medium cannot flow higher. So it is worth checking if the lift valves are not screwed on (on the supply).

Zbigniew: the radiators have manual air vents. I unscrew them regularly, lukewarm water is running ... nothing hisses.

As I wrote, no one has control over how the installation is set up. and it is known that by default thermo valves have a setting of max. If the plumber does not adjust it (and he does not do it, because I remember how they put in my place, they did not even check how it is set), then everything works as he wants.

What punished me so badly with the inept administration ... I must have been a very bad person in a previous incarnation.

Thanks ferris. But as Zbyszek said, there may be a muddy ruff and a thousand other things. administration administration. do what I wrote above no matter how the case with the administration is going. Increasing the flow velocity should partially flush your radiators, and the muck will flow down to the filter (desludger) and there the appropriate services will be able to handle it. And let the rest go on its own way.
greetings

you can still chase the water through the radiators or increase the orifices on the thermostats.
We chase the water off in such a way that we turn off the valves (supply and return), then release the pressure with the air vent to zero, when we do, unscrew the entire vent and place the bowl after these treatments, slowly unscrew the return valve, drain the water until the heat will fly non-stop, then turn off the return and turn on the power, drain the water until it is hot all the time. In this way, we improve the passage of the pipes and vent the installation and the radiator. A bit tiring, but the effect is visible and noticeable.
The orifices on the thermostats may have too little passage, some lint and we have a problem.
orifices are screwed into the radiators, to select them, we remove or unscrew from the thermostat supply valve and there is an orifice with a protruding pin or ball left, the first move we make is take something hard and press the pin a few times with vigorous movements, maybe we will have a bit of luck if we wait a little and the radiators start working as they should, the matter is settled, if not, then we go further, the next thing we do is check the number on which the orifice is set (numbers with a scale are around the pin or ball) by adjusting the key, we can increase or decrease it ( usually increase), wait a bit if that doesn't help, then we move on.
We have collapsed orifices. In this case, close the valves, return and power, release the pressure through the vent and unscrew the orifice at the radiator, after unscrewing it, gently clean the orifice itself, i.e. the tiny passages and the socket in which it sits. These methods are for those who have valves on the supply and return from the bottom, and if the supply is straight-through, that is, side, then we have to regulate the orifice.
And between us, the administration is like d..a from s .... but they prefer to throw off clients with stupid innovative ideas
I personally had such a case in a block on the 10th floor. An elderly couple lived there, they put them thermostatic valves with orifices on No. 2, they had winter at home, as in Siberia, the administration explained it on the 10th floor and that the new technology must spread. All it took was three flaps and everything started to spin as it should be

I have only one question.
Is it warm in the house?
How many degrees?

At present, the situation looks like this: we managed to persuade adm. for choking the radiator at the neighbor with whom I share the riser. It helped, the semi-cold radiator has moved and is somehow warm. I also talked to the plumbers who were delighted with the idea presented here to turn off the radiators for a moment in the entire vertical and blow out the installation at my place They didn't figure it out themselves ...

Thank you again for your help and advice, the winter is mild, so it's not bad at the moment, and thanks to you I have knowledge of what to offer to the managers and plumbers, so in case of further problems with cold radiators it may be easier. everything is warm for now.

As for the temperature: I have a lot of uninsulated gable walls in my apartment, so whenever there is a problem with CO, I feel it immediately. At the moment, the temperature is not bad, in the coldest room, between 20.5 and 21.5, which is a decent result. Well, winter has not started yet, and in frosts, the gable walls are like open freezers - it blows with frost ...