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[Solved] Moisture Issue under Floor & Socket Smell - Help with Door Frame, Skirting Boards & Damp Walls

Raiz3n 16323 14
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  • #1 17779812
    Raiz3n
    Level 11  
    Hi! For some time my pink girl has been complaining that it stinks from the socket (no associations :P ) due to the fact that my sense of smell is not the best, I thought that the smells from the neighbors get through a crack and that's it. Unfortunately, some time ago my door frame came out, I did not splash the foam with water after assembly and I thought that the foam only swelled now. Yesterday I decided to remove the skirting boards in the bedroom and this view appeared:
    Moisture Issue under Floor & Socket Smell - Help with Door Frame, Skirting Boards & Damp Walls
    on the other side of the kitchen door I also took off:
    Moisture Issue under Floor & Socket Smell - Help with Door Frame, Skirting Boards & Damp Walls
    I started to dismantle the wall next to the door frame, the kg plates were coming off almost by themselves:
    Moisture Issue under Floor & Socket Smell - Help with Door Frame, Skirting Boards & Damp Walls Moisture Issue under Floor & Socket Smell - Help with Door Frame, Skirting Boards & Damp Walls
    it turned out that the spout was soaked in water and it was possible to pick at it with a screwdriver:
    Moisture Issue under Floor & Socket Smell - Help with Door Frame, Skirting Boards & Damp Walls
    I picked out what I could and it fell off by itself and started to dry with a farel, I scraped to the brown sand, at the moment I have it a little dry, but when I dig my fingers in this hole on the sides I still feel wet sand, which is starching as much as possible and I pull it with a vacuum cleaner, it looks like this :
    Moisture Issue under Floor & Socket Smell - Help with Door Frame, Skirting Boards & Damp Walls Moisture Issue under Floor & Socket Smell - Help with Door Frame, Skirting Boards & Damp Walls
    From the bottom you can feel hard concrete that does not crumble. I have no idea what to do next, the bedroom was renovated a year ago and when I put the door in there was no moisture there, everything was even dry. Due to the fact that the building is from the 60-70s, I have no idea if there are any pipes in the floor or if it was insulated in any way from the bottom. I removed the fungus from under the slats mechanically, the walls do not seem to get wet, but when I broke off a piece of the board kg, I saw that there are black dots on the other side of the board (the wall is silenced with rock wool / frame / kg plates), in the kitchen the plates are glued to the cakes and also I can see the dots on the glued side, do I have to replace it or will this fungus die by itself after removing the moisture? I am broken, can anyone advise me something?
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  • #2 17779820
    Rezystor240
    Level 42  
    Raiz3n wrote:
    I am devastated, can someone advise me something?


    What is this building?
    Which floor would come in handy.
  • #3 17779837
    Raiz3n
    Level 11  
    Once it was an office building, these rooms have been converted into living quarters. My plans are that this room was a production room and a wall separated it from the office where the neighbor now has a kitchen. It is a ground floor building without a basement.
  • #4 17779856
    Rezystor240
    Level 42  
    Raiz3n wrote:
    It is a ground floor building without a basement.


    I would do this:

    He tore off the entire floor, dried it, sprinkled it with a fungus preparation. Even when it's not there to protect it.
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  • #5 17779863
    wacek.wacek
    Level 29  
    I feel sorry for you because such a leak is difficult to detect. If metal pipes then look with the detector where they are flying and look. Such a charm of metal installations.
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  • #6 17779896
    Rezystor240
    Level 42  
    wacek.wacek wrote:
    If metal pipes then look with the detector where they are flying and look.


    Do you think there is no reinforcement in the floor?
    He would never find such a method.
  • #7 17779904
    Raiz3n
    Level 11  
    Well, I thought about the same, because I would have borrowed the detector. Ripping the entire floor off will be a huge problem. The panels are laid on tiles that I couldn't break as if they were being welded heh. I will wait until Mon and go to the administrator, maybe he has plans on how the pipes were laid, or maybe the neighbor has some shots in this area, gentlemen, is there a chance that the foundation slab is cracked and the ground cover is going? I live in helium and sometimes the ground is breaking at 50 cm
  • #8 17779910
    Rezystor240
    Level 42  
    Raiz3n wrote:
    Gentlemen, is there a chance that the foundation slab is cracked and the ground is working? I live in helium and sometimes the ground is already breaking at 50 cm


    Do you have wells somewhere nearby?
    How high is the water table?
  • #9 17779913
    wacek.wacek
    Level 29  
    Metal pipes are not likely to go through the floors
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  • #10 17779918
    Raiz3n
    Level 11  
    There is probably no well in helium, unless it is about can, heh. I had the pleasure of working replacing the plumbing around this building, when I haven't lived here yet, so I'm writing about 50cm. Everywhere you had to kill pins and pump the groundwater.
  • #11 17780006
    mosmati88
    Level 23  
    In this case, a thermal imaging camera can also help. If it is really a fault in the hydraulic system.
  • #12 17780082
    klamocik
    Level 36  
    Look for the nearest external wall, dig a well, then you will see, I dug a cellar on one wall in the whole house, I keep apples in such a microclimate until new ones.
  • #13 17793925
    Raiz3n
    Level 11  
    Well, gentlemen, after talking to a neighbor, it turned out that a few months ago (2-3) the hose under the sink broke, the water ran for a long time, they wiped what was and they forgot about the problem. Unfortunately, this problem fell on my head because this water probably spilled under the floor and in my case the plasterboard caught it. The floor consists of two spouts between which there is about 5 cm of sand, so all moisture sits in the sand. Fortunately, I didn't have to continue to tear the floor, so I hope I won't be taking the panels and tiles apart. Currently, it is a place with a heater and I wait until all the moisture comes out. I also reported the damage to the insurance company and the manager.
  • #14 17793944
    Rezystor240
    Level 42  
    Raiz3n wrote:
    Currently, it is a place with a heater and I wait for all the moisture to come out.


    You will not get rid of this moisture quickly.
    Unfortunately, it takes time.
  • #15 17793953
    Raiz3n
    Level 11  
    Well, I suspect, for now I will replace these fungus plates and leave this hole for the moisture to come out.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a moisture issue under the floor and a foul smell emanating from a socket in a converted office building. The user discovered dampness and damage to the skirting boards and wall after removing them. Responses suggest various diagnostic approaches, including using a thermal imaging camera to detect leaks and checking for metal pipes. The user later learned that a neighbor's broken hose had caused water to seep under the floor, leading to moisture accumulation in the sand layer beneath the flooring. The user plans to replace damaged materials and allow moisture to evaporate while waiting for insurance assistance.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 24–48 hours is enough for mold to start; "Mold can grow within 24–48 hours." If your socket smells and skirting is damp, use thermal plus moisture meters, dry aggressively, and replace moldy drywall. This FAQ helps flat owners fix underfloor leaks and damp walls. [CDC, 2024]

Why it matters: Fast, correct action prevents electrical hazards, structural damage, and expensive, recurring mold.

Quick Facts

  • Mold growth window: 24–48 hours after materials get wet; act immediately. [CDC, 2024]
  • Keep indoor relative humidity below 60% (ideally 30–50%) during drying. [EPA, 2023]
  • Thermal cameras show evaporative cooling patterns; they don't “see” water—confirm with a moisture meter. [FLIR, 2022]
  • IICRC S500: remove unsalvageable porous materials, control humidity/airflow, and monitor to a dry standard before rebuild. [IICRC, 2021]
  • Case detail: this floor has ~5 cm sand between screeds, which traps water and slows drying. [Elektroda, Raiz3n, post #17793925]

Why does my socket smell and the skirting board feel damp?

Hidden water migrated under the floor and into wall cavities. Here, a neighbor’s burst sink hose released water months earlier. It spread beneath tiles into a 5 cm sand layer between screeds. Sand and gypsum held moisture, causing odors near the outlet. Replace moldy materials and start controlled drying. [Elektroda, Raiz3n, post #17793925]

Do I need to replace plasterboard with black spots, or will it clear once dry?

Replace moldy drywall. The EPA advises discarding porous materials with visible mold, then drying and cleaning remaining surfaces. “The key to mold control is moisture control.” Wear PPE, isolate the area, and bag debris. Dry the framing and reach RH below 60% before closing. Verify with a moisture meter. [EPA, 2023]

How long will it take to dry a sand layer trapped between screeds?

Expect extended drying because sand retains moisture. Use dehumidifiers with directed airflow and heat to increase evaporation. Monitor moisture in adjacent materials and compare to unaffected areas to set a dry goal. Do not close cavities until readings stabilize at or below baseline. [IICRC, 2021]

Can a thermal camera find leaks under tiles without ripping the floor?

Yes, it can reveal cold patterns from evaporation or hot supply lines. Run hot water to increase temperature contrast, then scan with a FLIR or Testo camera. Confirm suspected areas using a pin or pinless moisture meter. Thermal shows anomalies, not water itself. [FLIR, 2022]

Could this be a cracked foundation or rising groundwater instead of a plumbing leak?

In this case, the source is known: a neighbor’s sink hose failed and water migrated under the floor. Check groundwater only if no plumbing source turns up or symptoms track rain. Here, focus on drying and remediation, plus insurance documentation. [Elektroda, Raiz3n, post #17793925]

What drying setup works best: heater, fans, or dehumidifier?

Use dehumidification plus controlled airflow. Heat speeds evaporation, but only helps if you remove moisture from the air. Close the room, run an LGR dehumidifier, and direct air movers across wet surfaces. Avoid unvented combustion heaters. Track RH and material moisture daily. [IICRC, 2021]

Should I just spray a fungicide and leave the floor?

No. Sprays do not fix hidden moisture or remove mold embedded in porous materials. Remove and discard contaminated drywall or insulation. Clean and dry remaining surfaces thoroughly. EPA emphasizes addressing moisture first and avoiding sealing in mold. [EPA, 2023]

How do I monitor drying progress so I know when to rebuild?

Set a dry standard by measuring identical, unaffected materials. Log daily with a pin-type moisture meter on framing and drywall. Use RH and temperature readings to calculate conditions. Rebuild only when readings meet or beat the established dry standard. [IICRC, 2021]

How do I safely replace moldy plasterboard?

  1. Isolate area, wear PPE, cut 30–50 mm beyond visible mold, and bag debris immediately.
  2. HEPA-vacuum, clean with detergent, and dry framing to the dry standard; keep RH below 60%.
  3. Reinstall drywall once dry, then prime with a vapor-permeable primer and repaint. [EPA, 2023]

Is a smelly socket dangerous—should I turn off power?

Yes. Turn off the breaker and have an electrician inspect and replace any water-damaged outlets and wiring. “Water-damaged electrical equipment should be replaced.” Do not re-energize until inspected. Moisture and corrosion can cause arcing and fire. [ESFI, 2023]

Will a metal detector find metal pipes if there’s rebar in the slab?

Rebar can mask or confuse basic detectors and reduce detection depth. Use a wall/floor scanner designed for rebar and pipes, or GPR, to map reinforcement first. Then rescan for pipes. Confirm suspected runs before intrusive work. [Bosch, 2022]

Do I need to rip out the entire floor to fix this?

Not always. Localize with thermal imaging and moisture mapping first. If moisture is widespread or trapped under impermeable finishes, partial removal may be necessary. One forum recommendation was full floor removal followed by drying and antifungal treatment. [Elektroda, Rezystor240, post #17779856]

What happens if I leave moisture trapped under tiles or panels?

Expect recurring odors, mold growth, and delamination or adhesive failure. Hidden moisture also drives “secondary damage” to adjacent materials. Do not close cavities until materials meet the dry standard and RH is controlled. [IICRC, 2021]

How should I document for insurance or neighbor liability?

Photograph all damages, keep moisture and RH logs, and save invoices. Notify the building manager and your insurer promptly and mitigate further damage. Provide the identified source (e.g., neighbor’s failed hose) and access notes. [III, 2024]
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