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Mounting Screw Switch to Old-Type Box: Touch Switches, Renovation, Installation, Adjusting

winuser2 21183 15
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  • #1 18042658
    winuser2
    Level 17  
    Posts: 377
    Help: 19
    Rate: 14
    So, on the occasion of the renovation, I decided to change the switches. These are touch switches that are installed to the box by screwing two screws on the side.
    Unfortunately, my boxes in the walls are of the old type, they do not have holes for screws, and all the switches were mounted on plates stretched to the sides.
    Question: how to install it in a civilized way without replacing the boxes? The renovation is finished, the walls are painted, the finishing coats are ready, etc. The block is made of a large slab ...
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  • #2 18042713
    bumble
    Level 40  
    Posts: 7189
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    If you gently remove the box and insert the appropriate one on the plaster in its place, it will not be visible from under the switch frame.
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  • #3 18042915
    osiniak75
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2075
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    Have you checked if the new touch switches will work. Because replacing cans may be the least of your problems.
  • #4 18042926
    zdzisiek1979
    Level 39  
    Posts: 5408
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    osiniak75 wrote:
    Have you checked if the new touch switches will work. Because replacing cans may be the least of your problems.


    I bet they won't work because they still need N. And here there will probably be a shortage in the can.
  • #5 18043072
    winuser2
    Level 17  
    Posts: 377
    Help: 19
    Rate: 14
    Two-wire installation with "zero" - no neutral.
    I will see if it is possible to replace the can, but it seems to me to be a breakneck solution in a large slab ...
  • #6 18043184
    beam_beer
    Level 23  
    Posts: 549
    Help: 49
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    You'll do it calmly. Not by force, gently. In half an hour, max an hour with one piece you can do it. Worse than what the colleagues above wrote ...
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  • #7 18043643
    Justyniunia
    Level 36  
    Posts: 4188
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    Some touches work normally in series on phase, don't need N.
  • #8 18043693
    zbich70
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17116
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    beam_beer wrote:
    You'll do it calmly. Not by force, gently. In half an hour, max an hour with one piece you can do it.
    No need to forge whole cans. All you need is a sharp knife and a decent glue - cut out the appropriate fragments in the rim of the old and new cans and paste the new ones with holes into the cutouts of the old one, even on thermo-glue. The switch, especially the touch switch, unlike the socket, is not loaded with a pull-out force.
  • #9 18043791
    winuser2
    Level 17  
    Posts: 377
    Help: 19
    Rate: 14
    Ok, I'll try the replacement option. The only thing that worries me a little is this big plate, after all, it's all very hard and difficult to work with.
    And what is the problem with missing N?
  • #10 18043822
    bumble
    Level 40  
    Posts: 7189
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    Please provide the type or picture of the back of your circuit breaker. After all, you have an old tin, why do you want to process reinforced concrete?

    Added after 46 [seconds]:

    How many wires are under this switch in the old box and what kind?
  • #11 18043833
    zbich70
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17116
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    winuser2 wrote:
    Ok, I'll try the replacement option. The only thing that worries me a little is this big plate, after all, it's all very hard and difficult to work with.
    But you don't have to forge concrete, you just have to "pick out" the can from the inside, first the plastic, then slightly forge the old gypsum to make some slack for mounting the new can.
    winuser2 wrote:
    And what is the problem with missing N?
    Such that there are touch switches/dimmers that work without N, but also those that need it. If you have the latter, and there is no N wire in the box - all your effort to replace the box is in vain, because you have to buy another one anyway. And then you can find those that have a traditional, strut mounting method and the box does not need to be replaced.

    It would be easier to advise if you posted photos of the box and the back of the switch.
  • #12 18044071
    winuser2
    Level 17  
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    These are the switches "B-LINE single 1GW touch switch".
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  • #15 18044365
    beam_beer
    Level 23  
    Posts: 549
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    Why "unfortunately". You have L and L1, so you don't need N according to the link you provided.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the installation of touch switches in old-type electrical boxes that lack screw holes. The user seeks a solution to install the switches without replacing the boxes, as renovation work has already been completed. Various suggestions are provided, including gently removing the old box and replacing it with a compatible one, using glue to attach new boxes with screw holes, and ensuring the touch switches are compatible with the existing wiring, particularly regarding the need for a neutral wire (N). The B-LINE single 1GW touch switch is identified as the model in question, which does not require a neutral wire for operation.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Mounting touch switches in old 'tin' boxes? Plan 30–60 minutes per box; "Not by force, gently." Adapt by gluing a new box insert instead of chiseling. [Elektroda, beam_beer, post #18043184]

Why it matters: For homeowners and renovators dealing with screwless old boxes or two‑wire circuits, this FAQ explains safe mounting options and no‑neutral compatibility.

Quick Facts

How do I mount a screw-fixed touch switch in an old box with no screw holes?

Adapt the old box instead of chiseling. Cut matching windows in the rims of the old and new boxes. Glue the new box with screw holes into the old one and align it flush. Touch switches are not loaded with pull‑out force, so a glued insert holds. "All you need is a sharp knife and a decent glue." How‑To: 1. Mark and cut rim slots on both boxes. 2. Test‑fit, apply hot‑melt or construction adhesive. 3. Press, align, and let it cure before mounting. [Elektroda, zbich70, post #18043693]

Do touch switches work without a neutral wire in a two‑wire installation?

Yes. Some touch switches operate in series on the phase and do not need a neutral. Pick a model designed for two‑wire circuits. [Elektroda, Justyniunia, post #18043643]

My circuit has no neutral. What happens if the switch requires N?

A neutral‑required model will not work in that box. Replacing or adapting the box won't solve it. Choose a switch that works without N instead. [Elektroda, zbich70, post #18043833]

Does the B‑LINE single 1GW touch switch require neutral?

No. The B‑LINE 1GW uses L and L1 terminals, so it does not require a neutral. Connect the feed to L and the load to L1. [Elektroda, beam_beer, post #18044365]

What do 1GW, 2GW, and 3GW mean on B‑LINE switches?

They denote the number of touch buttons (gangs). It’s a naming for button count, not wiring type. [Elektroda, bumble, post #18044402]

Can I avoid replacing the box by choosing a different mounting method?

Yes. Choose a switch with traditional strut (claw) mounting that grips the old screwless box. Then you can skip box replacement. [Elektroda, zbich70, post #18043833]

Do I need to chisel reinforced concrete in a large‑panel building to change the box?

No. With old 'tin' boxes you work inside the box. Adapt or swap the insert rather than processing reinforced concrete. [Elektroda, bumble, post #18043822]

How long should adapting or swapping one box take?

Plan for about 30–60 minutes per box. Work gently, not by force, to avoid wall damage and misalignment. [Elektroda, beam_beer, post #18043184]

What tools and materials should I use for retrofitting a new box?

Use a sharp knife and a decent adhesive; hot‑melt (thermo‑glue) works well. Touch switches aren’t subject to pull‑out forces, so adhesive fixing is acceptable. [Elektroda, zbich70, post #18043693]

How do I wire a no‑neutral touch switch?

Connect the live feed to L and the switched output to L1. Follow the device’s L and L1 labeling; there is no N terminal. [Elektroda, beam_beer, post #18044365]

Will a new box or adapter be visible under the switch frame?

If you gently replace the box on plaster within the opening, the edges remain hidden by the switch frame. [Elektroda, bumble, post #18042713]

What should I share to get accurate advice on my installation?

Post a photo of the box and the switch’s back. Include how many conductors are present and their types. [Elektroda, bumble, post #18043822]
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