FAQ
TL;DR: For Magnifica S ECAM 22.110 descaling that won't reset, check the tank magnet and under‑tank sensor; PLN 150 typical tank+sensor cost; "Damage to this sensor means that the machine does not see the lack of water." [Elektroda, sigwa18, post #18074948]
Why it matters: It guides DeLonghi Magnifica S ECAM 22.110 owners who ask “how do I fix the flashing descaling light?” to a safe, proven fix.
Quick Facts
- The level sensor sits under the tank and is a reed switch or two‑wire Hall sensor reading a float magnet. [Elektroda, sigwa18, post #18074948]
- The descaling program ends only after the machine detects the tank is empty; failed sensing blocks completion. [Elektroda, sigwa18, post #18074948]
- Typical replacement cost for tank plus sensor is approx. PLN 150; some add a small neodymium magnet to the float. [Elektroda, sigwa18, post #18074948]
- Magnets weaken with age; one fix was replacing the reservoir with its non‑detachable magnet. [Elektroda, raduch85, post #20048489]
- If a new tank doesn’t help, replace the water sensor; this resolved ECAM 22.110.W descaling lock. [Elektroda, not_engineer, post #20925805]
How do I fix the flashing descaling light on a DeLonghi Magnifica S ECAM 22.110?
Most cases trace to the tank magnet or the under‑tank water sensor. Do a quick triage:
- Remove the tank and confirm the float magnet drops when empty.
- Hold a small neodymium magnet under the tank area; see if the machine detects “no water.”
- If detection works externally, replace the reservoir (weak magnet). If not, replace the sensor.
This stops the descaling loop because the machine can finally detect “empty” and exit the cycle. [Elektroda, sigwa18, post #18074948]
Where is the water‑level sensor located, and what type is it?
It sits inside the machine, directly under the water tank. DeLonghi uses a reed switch or a two‑wire Hall sensor there. The sensor detects a magnet embedded in the tank’s float when the float drops. That change signals the control board that the tank has run empty. [Elektroda, sigwa18, post #18074948]
Why won’t the descaling cycle finish even after I follow the manual?
The cycle ends only after the control board detects the tank has gone to zero. A failed sensor or a weak tank magnet prevents that “empty” signal. The machine then keeps circulating solution and never exits descaling. Fix the sensing path and the indicator clears immediately after the final stage. [Elektroda, sigwa18, post #18074948]
How can I test the tank magnet and sensor without disassembly?
Remove the tank and apply a separate magnet to the sensor spot under the tank. If the machine reacts, but it ignores the tank’s own magnet, your reservoir magnet is weak. A meter test can also show the sensor switching when a magnet is applied directly. Replace the tank if its magnet is underpowered. [Elektroda, raduch85, post #18560363]
Can the reservoir’s magnet weaken over time?
Yes. “Neodymium magnets also lose strength with age.” If the sensor triggers with a separate magnet but not with your tank, the tank magnet has likely weakened. Replacing the reservoir is the durable fix. [Elektroda, sigwa18, post #20048466]
Is the tank magnet replaceable, or do I need a whole new reservoir?
Users report the magnet is a non‑detachable element of the reservoir. Replacing the entire tank restored proper sensing and let descaling finish. If your sensor responds to an external magnet, a new reservoir is the right part. [Elektroda, raduch85, post #20048489]
I replaced the tank and it still won’t finish descaling—what next?
Replace the water sensor under the tank. One owner’s meter showed a “working” sensor, but it didn’t give a precise enough signal. After installing a new sensor, the descaling program completed and the light cleared. [Elektroda, not_engineer, post #20925805]
What’s the difference between the water‑level sensor and the tank‑present switch?
The tank‑present switch only confirms the tank is inserted. The water‑level sensor detects when the tank is empty via the float magnet. Forum experts stress the frequent failure is the level sensor, not the tank‑present limit switch. [Elektroda, sigwa18, post #18073262]
Can a failed sensor really let the machine brew with no water?
Yes. If the level sensor is faulty, the machine won’t detect an empty tank. It may continue attempting to brew or circulate fluid, risking pump stress. Fix the sensor path to restore safe operation. [Elektroda, sigwa18, post #18074948]
What does “item 47” refer to in some parts diagrams?
It refers to the reservoir assembly. If your diagnosis points to a weak magnet or physical tank issue, replace the reservoir (item 47). That resolved several cases. [Elektroda, ssss, post #20049353]
Could low water during descaling cause the blinking light to continue?
Ensure you added enough water or solution at the start. The first phase should dispense in portions, then the machine expects the tank to run empty. If the machine doesn’t show “no water,” revisit sensing and refill properly. [Elektroda, Misiek85, post #18111647]
How much does the fix cost, and is DIY realistic?
Typical cost for a tank plus sensor is about PLN 150. Many owners swap the reservoir or the sensor with basic tools. Some even add a small neodymium magnet to the float as a quick check. Replace worn parts for a reliable, lasting result. [Elektroda, sigwa18, post #18074948]
Do these tips apply to ECAM 22.110.W as well as .SB?
Yes. A user with an ECAM 22.110.W replaced the water sensor and the machine completed descaling. The sensing architecture is the same around the tank and sensor. [Elektroda, not_engineer, post #20925805]
Is there a temporary workaround to finish descaling before parts arrive?
You can strengthen the float’s magnetic field by adding a small neodymium magnet to the float’s bottom. This may let the machine detect “empty” and complete descaling. Treat it as a diagnostic or short‑term workaround until you replace the weak part. [Elektroda, sigwa18, post #18074948]