Floor heating. Regulators? Thermostat? Outdoor temperature sensor?

Hello experts, I am asking for help and advice.
From the beginning, I will add that I am green in the subject.
A house from a developer and unfortunately I have to control everything and look at my hands.
Floor heating is about to start. House about 130 m2. downstairs, an open kitchen with a living room, a toilet and a vestibule, upstairs 3 rooms, a bathroom and a "corridor" - all heated by floor heating.
I read on other sites and still don't know, so I'm asking here. To the point - I want to control the temperature in each room, I understand that there must be separate zones and a thermoregulator on the head or something like that and a thermostat or a control unit in each room?
Does it make sense? Can it happen? Should I also buy an external temperature sensor for this? I made a plan in my head that there would be a separate control everywhere, the de dietrich mcr3 plus 24t boiler, for this I would buy 1 controller from de dietrich AD 289 for the salon, and for the rest something cheaper like "Altech Programmable weekly temperature controller IRYD 2 code ALTH-995716".
Is it mass? Please help.

The basis for adjusting the floorboard is the weather adjustment. Room/room regulators/controllers only as an add-on.
Underfloor heating is a complicated installation that requires a project made by someone who knows about it. Do you have such a project? Without a project, you can have a lot of problems.
This complication is that underfloor heating must be well balanced and the underfloor pipe has a high flow resistance. As a result, the fields of floor tiles must be divided and selected in such a way that the length of pipes in all fields is similar. At the same time, temperature differences in individual rooms should be taken into account (bedrooms are slightly smaller, and bathrooms are higher than in the living room or so-called living rooms), the type and thickness of screeds, what the floor is to be covered with (tiles, parquets, panels, etc.), the type of pipe used glazing size. The size of the heating fields, the length of the pipes in the fields and the density of the underfloor heating depends on this, taking into account the edge zones where the arrangement of pipes is denser (at the windows, at external doors, balcony doors and external walls).

Otherwise, there will be a big problem with balancing the entire installation, especially if someone plans to power this installation with a pump from a gas boiler. The pump in this boiler has at least two times too low capacity. The pump with modulated efficiency, depending on the current boiler power (such as in the MCR boiler), is not suitable for direct supply of floor heating. A non-modulating pump should be installed next to the floor, because its efficiency depends only on the flow resistance, and these are almost constant and depend on the size and number of fields and the length of the pipes.
In order for such floor tiles to work properly, a boiler with a more efficient pump should be used or a hydraulic clutch + pump should be used.
Of course, the floor heating on this built-in pump will start, but you will have too much temperature difference between the supply and return. This drastically reduces the heating power of the half and it may turn out that it will not be possible to achieve the set temperature in the house in severe frosts or you will have to set a high heating temperature on the boiler, e.g. 60-70'C, which in turn is not healthy for floor tiles, because there will be large temperature differences and high stresses, but also it will not be healthy for the household, because the floor will be too warm in places and cold in places. Additional room/room control will only worsen this situation, because it will only increase the temperature fluctuations and force you to increase the supply temperature.

Therefore, the construction of each floor should be preceded by the design and calculations of the house's energy demand, flows and temperatures.
In a well-calculated underfloor heating system and a well-chosen pump, the temperature difference between the supply and return should not be greater than 10'C, and ideally it should not be greater than 5-7'C.
Making a floor skirt "by eye" is a big lottery.

Ask the contractor if he has such calculations and let him provide them to you.

Kudos to Plumpi
A good lecture. Everyone who opens a post about underfloor heating here should read it.
Start with a floor heating adjustable according to the heating curve. If you find that you need to control a specific temperature in specific rooms, you can always add such a wireless or wired control - only at the stage of construction work, distribute cables from each room to the OP distribution box and a signal and power cable from the boiler room to each distributor. After that, you'll be able to do almost anything.

Is this zoning okay?

I'm totally green on these things.
We bought an apartment from the secondary market which has underfloor heating throughout the apartment. It is a new block and the heating is municipal. I know superficially that there is one general box and so far the heating has been turned off and on there. The previous owners ran cables to each room to make zones. However, they have not installed thermostats and cables hang from the walls. What should I connect to it?? And who connects it? I thought it was an electrician (because it's a cable) but an electrician friend says it's a job for a plumber. My husband was planning to buy something like this:
https://allegro.pl/oferta/tech-r-9s-plus-czar...utm_medium=LikeButton&utm_source=Facebook
Is this supposed to be it?

Not enough information.
Unfortunately, you have to look for someone who will come to the place and see what has already been done and what wires are routed. You can also install wireless control if the cable infrastructure does not allow.

In the first place, I would go to the websites of the manufacturers of such a control, e.g.:
Salus
Tech Drivers
Danfoss Link / Ally
Euroster
Auraton
other...
And on their website he looked for contractors - sometimes they are plumbers, and sometimes electricians.
You can also contact their technical department.