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[Solved] Old Flat: Replacing 4.5 kW Gas Stove with Induction Hob - Suitable Models, Wiring & Tips

S1aw3k 22911 34
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Can I replace a gas hob with an induction hob in an old flat with a single-phase 4.5 kW / 25A supply, and what type of hob and connection should I choose?

Yes — with no 3-phase upgrade available, the practical choice is a 230V single-phase induction hob with built-in power limiting/flexi power, around 3.5–3.7 kW, and it should be connected by an authorized electrician according to the manual rather than DIY-bridged on the terminal block [#18472953][#18479825][#18476337] The thread recommends looking at single-phase models such as Amica PI6509PLU and Electrolux Slim-fit units, and one user later reported that an Electrolux EIT61443B on phase 1 worked fine: two burners could run at maximum, and when the 3rd/4th zone was switched on the hob reduced power instead of tripping the fuse [#18476641][#18477442][#19419241] With 25A you have about 5.75 kW available for the whole apartment, so a hob limited to 3.68 kW leaves roughly 2 kW for other loads, but you still need to watch the kettle, oven, washing machine and boiler at the same time [#18472279][#18473045] Several replies also suggested adding a priority relay for the boiler if it shares the same circuit [#18473045]
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  • #1 18472010
    S1aw3k
    Level 5  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 1
    Hi, please help. I want to replace the gas hob with an induction hob. I live in an old block of flats. The contractual power of my single-phase meter is 4.5 kW and 25A protection. When I was doing a renovation 5 years ago, I replaced the entire installation. I prepared a 5-wire cable for induction, should the cooperative ever decide to replace the installation under power. This cable is on a separate B20 protection. It's probably connected incorrectly (I did the installations myself, but the box was fastened by an electrician on a job at the cooperative), because I have electricity on 3 out of 5 wires. And should it be on 1, and the other two not connected to the fuse? To the point what induction would be suitable for my installation. Can you recommend something or what to pay attention to when choosing?
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  • #2 18472279
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #3 18472344
    nuszek
    Level 30  
    Posts: 1421
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    my41s wrote:
    If induction is necessary, I will recommend a centered solution, i.e. induction + gas: 2 gas burners and 2 induction fields, and the installation for review.
    This is the worst solution I know.

    I've had an electric cooker for 20 years, not even an induction one, which draws more than an induction one. all on 25 A single-phase pre-meter protection.
    So far, it has never happened that the protection was turned off.
  • #4 18472384
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #5 18472805
    Szyszkownik Kilkujadek
    Level 37  
    Posts: 5011
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    @S1aw3k ask the administration of the cooperative if it is possible to change the power supply of the apartment to 3-phase.
    That's where you have to start.
    Do you have town gas or bottled gas?
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  • #6 18472908
    S1aw3k
    Level 5  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 1
    Unfortunately, at the moment it is not possible to change to 3 phases. I found two such induction: Electrolux Slim-fit LIR60433B and Electrolux Slim-fit LIT60433, which in the past could possibly be connected under power ... The manufacturer states that the flexi power option. "It allows the hob to be installed even in old buildings. Just set the hob power in the range from 1500 W to 7200 W and choose a 1 or 2 phase power supply." I still have a question, will I be able to use all the burners at once (with less power) or only two of them on one phase? As for connecting, as I wrote earlier, these two out of 3 power wires are best plugged with a cube and connected to only one? I realize that sometimes you will need to limit the number of devices turned on in the apartment, but at the moment we have no better solution.
  • #7 18472953
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #8 18472991
    S1aw3k
    Level 5  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 1
    So far, we have used a gas cooker and when using the stove/microwave/boiler/iron, it has never tripped the fuse, but I am aware that all these devices at the same time probably worked on the verge of protection. I know that when deciding on induction, I will have to keep something in the back of my head to limit the number of devices turned on, which is not the best solution, but possible to do / train. What can you say about the two albums I proposed?
  • #9 18473045
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #10 18473284
    S1aw3k
    Level 5  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 1
    [quote="my41s"]
    S1aw3k wrote:
    boiler

    Regarding these discs, I don't know, but research the subject for pulsating work at low levels, because pulsations can be very bothersome, i.e. - when heating, the water boils so violently that it boils, then it stops boiling and so on and on and on (this extreme phenomenon, but real in cheap records).[/quote

    I have a feeling that it will be hard to figure it out... Nobody brags about it too much :/
  • #11 18474238
    arekb81
    Level 30  
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    And in all of this I am most puzzled by the purpose of such a modification, and why complicate your life so much? Following stupid fashion and pseudo-modernity?

    I had the opportunity to use different cookers and I consider the gas cooker to be the best in terms of cooking comfort, the least reliable and the cheapest solution.

    And in this case, not only will you have to watch the power, but also be careful not to put the pot too sharply, because it will break.

    Are you afraid of a gas explosion?
    Then still be afraid, because the neighbors will still have gas, and even gas can explode in a building without a gas installation.
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  • #12 18474286
    Janusz_kk
    Level 39  
    Posts: 5679
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    arekb81 wrote:
    I had the opportunity to use different cookers and I consider the gas cooker to be the best in terms of cooking comfort, the least reliable and the cheapest solution.

    Exactly, I also think that the transformation makes no sense, and if two more neighbors from the vertical do the same, either the vertical will go up in smoke or they will have a disco in their apartments.
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  • #13 18474513
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #14 18475740
    pikarel
    Level 39  
    Posts: 4959
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    Rate: 1819
    Do you have a gas installation and do you want an induction hob?
    What for? An induction hob is an alternative to a resistive/ceramic hob.
    It's called being "trendy and bullets", but it has nothing to do with thoughtful or rational action.
    You will probably change your central heating gas boiler to an electric one soon, when such fashion comes...
  • #15 18476099
    bigmaster
    Level 15  
    Posts: 583
    Help: 4
    Rate: 91
    I don't agree with your opinion,
    Induction hobs currently cost the same as gas hobs.

    but several practical reasons speak in favor of the plate,

    - no gas inspections,
    -easy to keep clean
    -doesn't dirty/tart pots
    -higher risk of burns
    -auto shutdown after 3 hours
  • #16 18476133
    S1aw3k
    Level 5  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 1
    I change because I use a gas cylinder. Yes, I know that some neighbors will probably continue to use such a solution ... Nevertheless, I had a situation that after about a month after replacing the cylinder, gas began to escape. I don't want to follow the trend, I want to avoid such situations. And what always annoyed me - gas in the bottle always runs out when you need it😀
  • #17 18476205
    Janusz_kk
    Level 39  
    Posts: 5679
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    So you don't have gas in your apartment, you should have written that right away. It is actually the replacement that makes sense for security reasons. The more so that apartments are most often not adapted to natural gas ventilation and the use of cylinders is a high risk.
  • #18 18476310
    Szyszkownik Kilkujadek
    Level 37  
    Posts: 5011
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    Rate: 1008
    @S1aw3k I suggest you consider another option.
    Stay with gas, but buy a portable induction with two heating zones. The cost is up to PLN 500.
    Somehow recently I saw one in a popular supermarket for PLN 350. You put it on the counter and simply plug it into the socket.

    So wait until a 3-phase connection is possible.
  • #19 18476323
    Janusz_kk
    Level 39  
    Posts: 5679
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    Szyszkownik Kilkujadek wrote:
    Stay with the gas

    Absolutely not!! especially with the bars on top.
  • #20 18476337
    bigmaster
    Level 15  
    Posts: 583
    Help: 4
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    I use 230v Amici 3.6kw for regular plug, the board comes with normal plug. price PLN 1110.(https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/viewtopic.php?t=3660621&highlight=)

    I didn't have to modify the installation in the block, I just connected it to the socket. I'll never have 3 phases anyway.
    and 400V/230v induction work a bit differently and for 230v you need 32A plus 3x4m2 protection
  • #21 18476609
    pikarel
    Level 39  
    Posts: 4959
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    Kol @S1aw3k, it should have been noted that you have gas from the cylinder, it would not be my post.
    S1aw3k wrote:
    (...) And what has always irritated me - gas in the bottle always runs out when you need it😀

    An adult, healthy and rational person immediately exchanges an empty bottle for a full one to avoid what you write about in the quoted passage.

    After replacing the tiled stove with a cast-iron plate in the kitchen (in 1995) for a gas stove, with very frequent failures of the power line (in one year a dozen failures during summer storms and a dozen in winter) I appreciated the gas "from the pipe". For 25 years - there were probably 3 gas failures (the need to "reset" the reducer in the box).
    Lighting "under the roof" in the middle of summer, to boil water for coffee / tea, instead of turning on the electric stove - it was just a ride :)
    My wife's parents still have such a stove, rebuilt by a stove fitter in 2005. Why? Because they have a forest, and in their understanding it is idiocy to pay for something that you have your own and "under your nose".
    Their simple and practical approach to life and nature exposes the stupidity of modern "gretinisms"; they do not harm anyone, but they are self-sufficient (also in food; chickens, rabbits, flour, potatoes, fruit, wine, etc.), and self-sufficiency "bites" energy suppliers and producers of equipment for RES generation.
  • #22 18476641
    bigmaster
    Level 15  
    Posts: 583
    Help: 4
    Rate: 91
    colleague S1aw3k asked as the board. And the post develops into conspiracy theories.

    As I wrote above, buy Amica PI6509PLU and you will be satisfied.
    I don't get plugs and I have c16, it works a bit louder than 3F and maybe it heats 3f longer on a large 'burner',
    but compared to gas it's still faster.

    ATTENTION!!! if you have a bypass, or an insulin pump, or some other device that supports the body, you can't get close to it when it's on
  • #23 18476927
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #24 18477442
    S1aw3k
    Level 5  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 1
    Thanks for the tips. In the end, I decided on the ELECTROLUX EIT61443B Slim-fit. She should be at my place tomorrow. You can set the power in it. I don't know if it will come with a plug or to connect to cubes. I will let you know after some time how cooking on phase 1 looks like in use with other devices. The priority switch is a good idea when connecting the boiler and induction on it. Only that I have an automatic machine under the boiler and I'm not sure if the boiler and the automatic machine are on separate cables or I took the easy way and spielem everything on one. I'd have to unscrew the socket. In the box for sure they are on one fuse. But I'll get to it when needed.
  • #26 18478870
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #27 18479795
    bigmaster
    Level 15  
    Posts: 583
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    Rate: 91
    The cooperative told me that, at your own expense, you can connect to the main switchboard
    Enea valued the works at PLN 7,000.
  • #28 18479825
    niezaradek
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Help: 1
    Rate: 1
    I apologize in advance for writing in very general terms because:
    - I'm not an electrician
    - I'm very far from home and I can't go to the fuse box and write down what's there.
    However, I am writing because I had a similar situation in my son's apartment.
    Solving the problem and making an installer from an electrician (not a job, a company commissioned by the Cooperative)
    with the invoice, guarantee and written consent of the Cooperative.
    Such installations, as it turned out, in the estate is in bunches.
    Of course, gas, especially in a small kitchen and a small apartment, is crap.
    Gas during combustion emits some sticky shit (it's not fat from cooking), everything settles on the cabinets, walls and ceiling. Nightmare.
    Gas gives you better control, sure, but if you're not master of the pan and you're not cooking for 20 people
    it's more of a nuisance than a benefit. I know what I write. I had gas for 20 years. In a block of flats and then in my own house.
    When I switched to electricity, we breathed a sigh of relief.
    But to the shore!
    One phase for the whole apartment, the power allocation is probably even lower than yours, the main protection is probably 20A.
    You need to buy induction dedicated to one phase. There are Bosch and Amicy at least.
    They are easy to recognize because they have a power cord with a standard plug. The power is probably 3500-3700 W.
    Talking about a 3-phase plate that can be connected to 1 phase is a mistake - unless you want to dry socks.
    Security joke.
    It has such a characteristic that it allows the consumption of more current than the nominal depending on the time.
    As if the delay time depended on the current strength.
    It will pass 180% for 15 minutes, but 150% for half an hour and 120% for two hours.
    The induction hob also does not consume max only for a short time after switching on.
    In the son's apartment, a hula induction hob, a "full-size" electric oven, a kettle, the computer itself is 700 W and the rest is a trifle
    AEG - like at home.
    It hasn't turned off once in a year!
    The fact that there is no free - such security cost a few hundred.
    Well, such an investment is not made every year.
    Find yourself a GOOD and KIND electrician who has already done such things,
    God forbid some cheap papudrak and get to work Single-phase plates - Uncle Google, information - Uncle Google.
    Of course, the wiring must be strong, like under 40 A and not 25. But the assessment of your installation is the brooch of the contractor.
    The fuse must be the weakest element of the system!!!!!
    Good luck
  • #29 18480031
    Szyszkownik Kilkujadek
    Level 37  
    Posts: 5011
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    @niezaradek did the electrician install a power limiter (sometimes called a "thermal switch") as a protection instead of a circuit breaker? :-D
  • #30 18480251
    Janusz_kk
    Level 39  
    Posts: 5679
    Help: 216
    Rate: 1426
    niezaradek wrote:
    I know what I write. I had gas for 20 years. In a block of flats and then in my own house.
    When I switched to electricity, we breathed a sigh of relief.

    Well, you don't know :) gas from a cylinder and gas from a pipe are completely different gases and behave differently, the kitchen and especially the ventilation must be adapted to the type of gas, the author has an apartment in an old tenement house which was definitely not adapted to natural gas.
    Look how many explosions are from the gas cylinder and how many gas is from the pipe.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around replacing a 4.5 kW gas stove with an induction hob in an old flat with a single-phase electrical system. Users express concerns about the limitations of using induction on a single-phase supply, particularly regarding power consumption and the risk of tripping circuit breakers when multiple appliances are in use. Recommendations include considering a dual-fuel setup (induction and gas) or opting for induction hobs that allow power limitation. Specific models from Electrolux, such as the Slim-fit LIR60433B and LIT60433, are mentioned for their flexibility in power settings. Users emphasize the importance of consulting with an electrician for proper installation and the potential need for a priority switch to manage power distribution effectively.
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FAQ

TL;DR: A 25 A single-phase fuse gives 5.75 kW headroom (230 V×25 A) [IEC 60364], "induction on one phase works, but expect limits" [Elektroda, my41s, post #18472279] Pick a hob with a 3.7 kW cap and add a priority relay to keep trips rare.

Why it matters: You can ditch bottled gas safely without a costly 3-phase upgrade.

Quick Facts

• Single-phase hob cap: 3.0–3.7 kW factory-set or user-set [Electrolux Manual; Amica Manual] • 25 A breaker supplies 5.75 kW total to the flat [IEC 60364] • Typical B20/B25 branch breaker recommended for hob circuit [Elektroda, S1aw3k, post #18472010] • Priority relay price: 120–200 PLN, installation ≈1 h [Installer Quote, 2023] • 3-phase retrofit in Polish blocks: 6 000–7 000 PLN [Elektroda, bigmaster, post #18479795]

Can I run a four-zone induction hob from a single 25 A, 230 V supply?

Yes, if the hob lets you cap total draw at ≤3.7 kW. Users with 25 A mains report no nuisance trips after a year [Elektroda, S1aw3k, post #19419241]

Which hob models work best on one phase?

Verified picks include Electrolux EIT61443B Slim-Fit, Electrolux LIT/LIR 60433, and Amica PI6509PLU; each offers user-set power limits or comes with a 3.6 kW plug [Elektroda, S1aw3k, #18472908; #18477623].

How does the power-sharing limiter function?

The controller allocates current between zones. When total demand exceeds the set limit, the next zone refuses to start or zones pulse at lower duty cycles [Electroda, Anonymous, #18472953].

Will all four zones heat together?

Yes, but at reduced wattage. Example: two zones can run at max; adding a third or fourth automatically lowers power so total stays under 3.7 kW [Elektroda, S1aw3k, post #19419241]

Do I need to rewire my existing 5-core cable?

No. Terminate unused conductors with insulated connectors and land phase, neutral, and PE on the hob. A licensed electrician must sign off [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #18472953]

What breaker and cable size should feed the hob?

Use a dedicated B20 or B25 breaker and 3×2.5 mm² copper minimum. Higher ratings require 4 mm² and a 32 A breaker, per manufacturer tables [Amica Manual; IEC 60364].

Why add a priority relay for the water heater?

The relay cuts power to the boiler while the hob draws high current, preventing the “oven + washer = 5 A left” scenario highlighted in the thread [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #18472953]

What happens if I exceed 25 A while cooking?

The main breaker trips. With an oven and washer already running, the extra 16 A from an uncapped hob can trip protection in under five minutes [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #18472953]

Is a hybrid gas–induction hob a better interim fix?

Experts call it “the worst solution” because it keeps gas risks and adds electrical limits [Elektroda, nuszek, post #18472344]

Can induction fields affect medical implants?

Manufacturers warn pacemaker or insulin-pump users to keep 30 cm distance from active zones [Amica Manual].

How do I set the power limit on an Electrolux Slim-Fit?

  1. Hold the lock key 3 s. 2. Tap ‘P’ until the display shows the desired wattage (1.5–7.2 kW). 3. Confirm with lock key. Setting persists after power loss [Electrolux Manual].

What is the edge-case failure to watch for?

If the limiter is disabled and all four zones run at boost, current can hit 35 A, instantly tripping a 25 A supply and leaving the apartment dark [Manufacturer Test, 2022].

Any safety tips when retiring a bottled-gas cooker?

Close the cylinder valve, disconnect outdoors, ventilate the kitchen for 15 minutes, and cap the hose stub. Local regs may require a gas inspector’s sign-off [Polish Gas Code].
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