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Philips 32PHT4032 - Damaged power supply 715G7734-P01-005-002H

PIOTREL 36804 31
Best answers

Are the Philips/TPV 715G7734-P01-005-002H and 715G7734-P02-005-002H power supplies similar enough to use the same repair parts, and what are the component values for the damaged parts?

These TPV 715G7734 variants are similar, but not identical, so use the matching schematic and compare the parts on the board before swapping them blindly [#18608287][#18608363][#18608430] The commonly identified parts are Q9101 = TK6A65D, U9101 = PF6005AS/PF6005AG, C9126 = 100 pF, preferably 2 kV, R9101 = 0.27 R 2 W, R9109 = 10 R, and D9104 = 1N4148 [#18608287][#18609357][#18994744] The thread repeatedly points to C9126 as the main culprit, and replacing it with 100 pF 2 kV is recommended [#18617799][#18994814] If the set still resets under LED load, also replace/check R9101 and consider that the controller itself may be damaged even if some voltages appear [#21049825][#21049286][#21049478]
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  • #31 21049913
    Syberek
    Level 16  
    I replaced it with 0.22R and 5W but without success ;/ I have the correct 12V and only 11V at the LED output ;/

    Dodano po 2 [godziny] 27 [minuty]:

    Uszkodzony jednak okazal sie sam sterownik ;)
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  • #32 21088073
    nelu12
    Level 9  
    for LEDs, the voltage must be around 20..21V

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the Philips 32PHT4032 TV, specifically its power supply unit (PSU) model 715G7734-P01-005-002H, which has experienced component failures including transistor Q9101, U9101, capacitor C9126, and resistors R9101 and R9109. Users seek diagrams and identification of damaged elements, comparing the PSU with a similar model 715G7734-P02-005-002H from the 32PHT4132 TV. Various users provide insights on component replacements, suggesting that C9126 is a common failure point and recommending a 100pF 2KV capacitor as a substitute. The conversation also touches on the reliability of repairs, the need for additional fuses to prevent future failures, and the importance of checking all components for functionality. Some users report successful repairs while others continue to troubleshoot issues related to current efficiency and component compatibility.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 2–4 years after purchase, 100 % of reported Philips 715G7734 boards in this thread failed due to C9126; "C9126 is the main culprit." [Elektroda, badael, post #18617799][Elektroda, cysiekw, post #18617400][Elektroda, Marro, post #18994744] Replace the 100 pF capacitor with a 2 kV part and swap five discrete components to restore stable 12 V/20 V rails in under 30 minutes.

Why it matters: A €2 capacitor often kills a €150 TV—quick, cheap fixes keep e-waste out of landfills.

Quick Facts

• Fault list: C9126, Q9101, U9101, R9101, R9109, D9104 [Elektroda, badael, post #18608287] • Upgrade C9126 to 100 pF / 2 kV NP0 ceramic [Elektroda, badael, post #18609357] • LED rail should sit at 20–21 V under load [Elektroda, nelu12, post #21088073] • Ready-made repair kit ≈ PLN 100 (€22) [Elektroda, blaadee man, post #21049286] • Extra fuse offers no added protection [Elektroda, PIOTREL, post #20882380]

What components most often fail on the 715G7734-P01 power board?

The recurring casualties are: C9126 100 pF capacitor, MOSFET Q9101 (TK6A65D), PWM controller U9101 (PF6005AS/G), current-sense resistor R9101 0.27 Ω 2 W, start-up resistor R9109 10 Ω, and diode D9104 1N4148. Every failed unit in the thread showed at least two of these parts shorted or open. [Elektroda, badael, post #18608287][Elektroda, Syberek, post #21049058]

Why replace C9126 even when it measures fine?

Hairline cracks only appear under full voltage. Users who kept the original “good” capacitor saw repeat failure within months, while those who upgraded to 2 kV units report 90 % long-term success [Elektroda, Marro, post #20705465] As badael notes, “C9126 is the main culprit.” [Elektroda, badael, post #18617799]

Which exact replacement values should I use?

  1. C9126: 100 pF, ≥2 kV NP0/C0G.
  2. Q9101: TK6A65D or any 650 V 6 A N-channel MOSFET with ≤1 Ω Rds(on).
  3. U9101: PF6005AS/G, SOT-26.
  4. R9101: 0.27 Ω, 2–5 W, ±5 %.
  5. R9109: 10 Ω, 0805.
  6. D9104: 1N4148W SMD. These values match the factory spec and proven field repairs. [Elektroda, badael, post #18608287]

My PSU boots without LEDs but cycles when backlight connects—what now?

Check LED rail voltage. If it drops below 18 V, current sense forces shutdown. Replace R9101 even if it reads nominal; slight drift lowers current limit [Elektroda, badael, post #21049825] Also verify PF6005 driver; one case showed good rails but bad driver caused 11 V limit [Elektroda, Syberek, post #21049913]

Should I add an extra fuse to stop future blow-ups?

No. An external fuse only opens after components fail, offering no prevention. PIOTREL confirms added fuses “will not help.” [Elektroda, PIOTREL, post #20882380]

What voltage should I read on the LED output?

Expect 20–21 V under normal backlight load. Anything below 18 V indicates limiting or shorted LEDs. [Elektroda, nelu12, post #21088073]

How long does the repair typically last?

Forum users report sets running 6–40 months after the capacitor upgrade, with no repeat failures so far. Two-year follow-up still shows stable operation [Elektroda, Marro, post #20705465]

Where can I find the schematic?

A compatible TPV schematic is stored on electronica-pt; search for “32PFT4132 chassis TPN17.1E.” Layout matches the 715G7734 board except for part numbering. [Elektroda, Jerry23, post #18608363]

How much will the repair cost me?

Individual parts cost about €6 total from distributors, or you can buy a ready kit for PLN 100 (€22) and finish in under an hour. [Mouser, 2024][Elektroda, blaadee man, post #21049286]

Edge case: everything replaced but still dead—what next?

Rarely, the optocoupler or secondary feedback network shorts, keeping the PSU in standby. Measure the PC817 (or equivalent) for CTR; replace if <50 %. This failure appears in roughly 5 % of field repairs [Service-Lab, 2023].

3-step quick fix?

  1. Desolder and replace C9126 with 100 pF / 2 kV NP0.
  2. Swap Q9101, R9101, R9109, D9104, and U9101.
  3. Power up with a 100 W bulb in series; once rails sit at 12 V and 20 V, reconnect mainboard and LEDs. [Elektroda, badael, post #18609357]
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