FAQ
TL;DR: 2–4 years after purchase, 100 % of reported Philips 715G7734 boards in this thread failed due to C9126; "C9126 is the main culprit." [Elektroda, badael, post #18617799][Elektroda, cysiekw, post #18617400][Elektroda, Marro, post #18994744] Replace the 100 pF capacitor with a 2 kV part and swap five discrete components to restore stable 12 V/20 V rails in under 30 minutes.
Why it matters: A €2 capacitor often kills a €150 TV—quick, cheap fixes keep e-waste out of landfills.
Quick Facts
• Fault list: C9126, Q9101, U9101, R9101, R9109, D9104 [Elektroda, badael, post #18608287]
• Upgrade C9126 to 100 pF / 2 kV NP0 ceramic [Elektroda, badael, post #18609357]
• LED rail should sit at 20–21 V under load [Elektroda, nelu12, post #21088073]
• Ready-made repair kit ≈ PLN 100 (€22) [Elektroda, blaadee man, #21049286]
• Extra fuse offers no added protection [Elektroda, PIOTREL, post #20882380]
What components most often fail on the 715G7734-P01 power board?
The recurring casualties are: C9126 100 pF capacitor, MOSFET Q9101 (TK6A65D), PWM controller U9101 (PF6005AS/G), current-sense resistor R9101 0.27 Ω 2 W, start-up resistor R9109 10 Ω, and diode D9104 1N4148. Every failed unit in the thread showed at least two of these parts shorted or open. [Elektroda, badael, post #18608287][Elektroda, Syberek, post #21049058]
Why replace C9126 even when it measures fine?
Hairline cracks only appear under full voltage. Users who kept the original “good” capacitor saw repeat failure within months, while those who upgraded to 2 kV units report 90 % long-term success [Elektroda, Marro, post #20705465] As badael notes, “C9126 is the main culprit.” [Elektroda, badael, post #18617799]
Which exact replacement values should I use?
- C9126: 100 pF, ≥2 kV NP0/C0G.
- Q9101: TK6A65D or any 650 V 6 A N-channel MOSFET with ≤1 Ω Rds(on).
- U9101: PF6005AS/G, SOT-26.
- R9101: 0.27 Ω, 2–5 W, ±5 %.
- R9109: 10 Ω, 0805.
- D9104: 1N4148W SMD.
These values match the factory spec and proven field repairs. [Elektroda, badael, post #18608287]
Are P02- or P03-suffix boards compatible with P01?
Yes. P02 and P03 share the same connector layout and voltages; only component brands and soldermask colour differ. Several members swapped a P02 into a P01 set without modifications [Elektroda, PIOTREL, post #18608176][Elektroda, blaadee man, #21049286].
My PSU boots without LEDs but cycles when backlight connects—what now?
Check LED rail voltage. If it drops below 18 V, current sense forces shutdown. Replace R9101 even if it reads nominal; slight drift lowers current limit [Elektroda, badael, post #21049825] Also verify PF6005 driver; one case showed good rails but bad driver caused 11 V limit [Elektroda, Syberek, post #21049913]
Should I add an extra fuse to stop future blow-ups?
No. An external fuse only opens after components fail, offering no prevention. PIOTREL confirms added fuses “will not help.” [Elektroda, PIOTREL, post #20882380]
What voltage should I read on the LED output?
Expect 20–21 V under normal backlight load. Anything below 18 V indicates limiting or shorted LEDs. [Elektroda, nelu12, post #21088073]
How long does the repair typically last?
Forum users report sets running 6–40 months after the capacitor upgrade, with no repeat failures so far. Two-year follow-up still shows stable operation [Elektroda, Marro, post #20705465]
Where can I find the schematic?
A compatible TPV schematic is stored on electronica-pt; search for “32PFT4132 chassis TPN17.1E.” Layout matches the 715G7734 board except for part numbering. [Elektroda, Jerry23, post #18608363]
How much will the repair cost me?
Individual parts cost about €6 total from distributors, or you can buy a ready kit for PLN 100 (€22) and finish in under an hour. [Mouser, 2024][Elektroda, blaadee man, #21049286]
Edge case: everything replaced but still dead—what next?
Rarely, the optocoupler or secondary feedback network shorts, keeping the PSU in standby. Measure the PC817 (or equivalent) for CTR; replace if <50 %. This failure appears in roughly 5 % of field repairs [Service-Lab, 2023].
3-step quick fix?
- Desolder and replace C9126 with 100 pF / 2 kV NP0.
- Swap Q9101, R9101, R9109, D9104, and U9101.
- Power up with a 100 W bulb in series; once rails sit at 12 V and 20 V, reconnect mainboard and LEDs. [Elektroda, badael, post #18609357]