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Philips 32PHT4032 - Damaged power supply 715G7734-P01-005-002H

PIOTREL 37002 31
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Are the Philips/TPV 715G7734-P01-005-002H and 715G7734-P02-005-002H power supplies similar enough to use the same repair parts, and what are the component values for the damaged parts?

These TPV 715G7734 variants are similar, but not identical, so use the matching schematic and compare the parts on the board before swapping them blindly [#18608287][#18608363][#18608430] The commonly identified parts are Q9101 = TK6A65D, U9101 = PF6005AS/PF6005AG, C9126 = 100 pF, preferably 2 kV, R9101 = 0.27 R 2 W, R9109 = 10 R, and D9104 = 1N4148 [#18608287][#18609357][#18994744] The thread repeatedly points to C9126 as the main culprit, and replacing it with 100 pF 2 kV is recommended [#18617799][#18994814] If the set still resets under LED load, also replace/check R9101 and consider that the controller itself may be damaged even if some voltages appear [#21049825][#21049286][#21049478]
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  • #1 18608176
    PIOTREL
    Level 26  
    Good morning
    This TV has the 715G7734-P01-005-002H TPV power supply
    elements are fired - transistor Q9101, U9101, C9126, R9101, R9109, D9104.
    I am asking for a diagram or identification of damaged elements.
    I found a working power supply that looks identical from the photo, except for the color of the power socket with the symbol 715G7734-P02-005-002H TPV from a 32pht4132 TV. Are these similar power supplies?
    Please let me know.
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  • #3 18608306
    PIOTREL
    Level 26  
    I was looking at this diagram. Unfortunately it is not the same.
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  • #5 18608430
    PIOTREL
    Level 26  
    There is one power supply that is very similar.
    The U9101 chip is probably the same.
    Unfortunately, there is no C9126 described there.
    But thanks a lot anyway.
  • #6 18608479
    badael
    Level 27  
    PIOTREL wrote:
    Unfortunately it is not the same.

    Which element is not the same? There may be suggestions.

    Which item is not the same? There may be suggestions.
  • #7 18608552
    PIOTREL
    Level 26  
    C9126 is not for TV 32 ", it is only for larger ones and has different capacities, T9001 is 22 or 27ohm. U9101 is also 6 and 8 pin version.
    It's so fast
    Of course, you can already draw conclusions and try to do something on this basis.
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  • #8 18609357
    badael
    Level 27  
    PIOTREL wrote:
    T9001 is 22 or 27ohm

    It is not a reliable method. If there is a C9126 replace it with 100pF 2KV.
    PF6005-SOT-26
    This is not a foolproof method. If it is C9126, replace it with 100pF 2KV.
    Attachments:
    • Philips 32PHT4032 - Damaged power supply 715G7734-P01-005-002H pf6005.jpg (51.76 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #9 18609371
    PIOTREL
    Level 26  
    Of course, I meant R9001 22 or 27 Ohm
    Ok I understand 100 pF 2KV
  • #10 18610422
    badael
    Level 27  
    PIOTREL wrote:
    I meant R9001 22 or 27 Ohm

    That it is not a fault in the resistor mark? Where is it? R9101 you think?

    That it is not a resistor mark fault? Where it is? R9101 do you think?
  • #11 18613339
    PIOTREL
    Level 26  
    This resistor is also damaged, as are the listed elements.
    I have already ordered damaged parts.
  • #12 18617400
    cysiekw
    Level 42  
    PIOTREL wrote:
    This resistor is also damaged, as are the listed elements.
    What a coincidence, on Saturday I took out the same power supply, of course, it was more practical, the same as for you, a mosfet, a resistor and a capacitor, 4 years and a pad. Write that he is from WLKP ;)
  • #13 18617799
    badael
    Level 27  
    C9126 is the main culprit. Solder like this.

    C9126 is the main culprit. Yes soldered.
    Attachments:
    • Philips 32PHT4032 - Damaged power supply 715G7734-P01-005-002H C9126.png (24.75 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
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  • #14 18620927
    PIOTREL
    Level 26  
    cysiekw wrote:
    PIOTREL wrote:
    This resistor is also damaged, as are the listed elements.
    What a coincidence, on Saturday I took out the same power supply, of course, it was more practical, the same as for you, a mosfet, a resistor and a capacitor, 4 years and a pad. Write that he is from WLKP ;)


    Yes, I am from WLKP

    Added after 2 [minutes]:

    badael wrote:
    C9126 is the main culprit. Solder like this.

    C9126 is the main culprit. Yes soldered.

    You are right, the culprit is the replaced capacitor, as in the LG 32LN540 model
  • #15 18994744
    Marro
    Level 11  
    Hi / Hi

    I join the topic.
    I lost such a power supply in a two-year-old TV. / PSU dead in two-years-old TV.

    I will buy a set of parts: / I would like to buy set of components:
    D9104 1N4148W SMD
    Q9101 TK6A65D THT
    U9101 PF6005AG 6PIN SMD
    R9101 0.27R 2W THT
    R9109 10R 0805
    R9110 47R 0805
    R9113 1K 1 / 4W 1206

    Can someone help? / Can anyone help?
    For me, the C9126 is OK. Do you want to replace it anyway? / In my TV C9126 is ok. Should I replace it anyway?

    @badael:
    Why do You suggest such modification? Will that help for future?

    greetings
    Marcin.
  • #16 18994814
    PIOTREL
    Level 26  
    Hi
    Yes replace this capacitor.
  • #17 20683984
    Aaoki77
    Level 1  

    >>18994744
    Are all the elements working after the upgrade? I have the same issues and I'm considering following the parameters from your post.
  • #18 20705465
    Marro
    Level 11  

    Hi.

    Yes, the TV works so far.
    I also did as @badael advised.

    I suggest checking the motherboard first to make sure it's not damaged before replacing it.
    I also have some parts left over if you're interested.
  • #19 20880855
    blaadee man
    Level 12  
    Hello, For all those following, the topic is not closed. Ultimately, I wanted to find out where, after repairing such a power supply, it would be worth inserting an additional fuse (because the original one did not work, whether in parallel with the C9126 capacitor, or immediately at the output of the transformer supplying power to the entire system that fails) so that there would be no repeat in about 2 years+, or whether changing the capacitor in the original C9126 100pf power supply without repairs from 1KV to 2KV will do anything, or is this a defect that is designed so that after some time the TV has been working, it must be fixed, because these are all similar Philips power supplies that fail in the same way and are even repair kits :) ?
    Damaged component on a circuit board with capacitors and a resistor. Close-up of a printed circuit board with electronic components, including capacitors and copper traces. Close-up of a circuit board with visible capacitors and resistors.
  • #20 20882380
    PIOTREL
    Level 26  
    An additional fuse, wherever it may be, will not help.
  • #21 21049058
    Syberek
    Level 16  
    I also have a problem with this power supply. The motherboard and backlight seem to be ok. Both run on an external power supply. I replaced the 100pF 1kV capacitor and soldered it as recommended by the colleague above. The power supply starts. the motherboard turns on, but only if there is no backlight connected. With the backlight, the power supply constantly stops and starts again. It lacks current efficiency, I suspect. What else can be checked?
  • #22 21049286
    blaadee man
    Level 12  
    If this capacitor failed, it was probably a transistor and a resistor and a small part on the other side. Have you checked these elements to see if they are functional? you can see everything in the photos above. There are repair kits on Allegro for these power supplies, costing about PLN 100. I bought a used, functional power supply 715G7734-P03-005-002H and it already has the larger blue capacitor and the R9101 resistor is a bit larger. The factory one was 715G7734-P02-005-002H.
  • #23 21049316
    Syberek
    Level 16  
    The capacitor did not fail, because the meter showed its capacity normally. However, it was cracked, so I replaced it and soldered it as recommended by the guy above. R9101 0.27R had increased resistance, so I replaced it and the power supply seems to be working, because 12V and 18V appeared for the LEDs. I checked the LEDs on the power supply and at 18V they consume 450mA. I checked the small stuff you mentioned and it also seems good. Unfortunately, when the LEDs are connected, they only flash and the power supply constantly resets ;/
  • #24 21049453
    Wojtek M
    Level 39  
    The photo shows damaged elements, have they been replaced? The power supply driver may also be damaged.
    Attachments:
    • Philips 32PHT4032 - Damaged power supply 715G7734-P01-005-002H Zasilacz 001_1.jpg (204.86 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #25 21049465
    Syberek
    Level 16  
    I didn`t replace them because both the diode and resistors have the right value. If the controller was damaged, would voltages appear at all?
  • #26 21049478
    Wojtek M
    Level 39  
    You can clearly see "fires" on them (not on the diode), but if there are such effects, everything needs to be replaced, probably the controller, and the optocoupler should also be checked. The measurement of elements is only reliable after desoldering.
  • #28 21049579
    gulson
    System Administrator  
    This is a request for your input, because at this point it`s just a joke on your colleagues who are trying to help.
  • #29 21049593
    Syberek
    Level 16  
    There are no marks on any of the elements, so I don`t know what these photos are for. We`re talking about exactly the same power supply, so what`s the point? However, I will get up in the morning ;)
  • #30 21049825
    badael
    Level 27  
    Syberek wrote:
    The power supply starts. the motherboard turns on, but only if there is no backlight connected. With the backlight, the power supply constantly stops and starts again. It lacks current efficiency, I suspect. What else can be checked?

    Although it looks correct, replace R9101 0.27R 2W.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the Philips 32PHT4032 TV, specifically its power supply unit (PSU) model 715G7734-P01-005-002H, which has experienced component failures including transistor Q9101, U9101, capacitor C9126, and resistors R9101 and R9109. Users seek diagrams and identification of damaged elements, comparing the PSU with a similar model 715G7734-P02-005-002H from the 32PHT4132 TV. Various users provide insights on component replacements, suggesting that C9126 is a common failure point and recommending a 100pF 2KV capacitor as a substitute. The conversation also touches on the reliability of repairs, the need for additional fuses to prevent future failures, and the importance of checking all components for functionality. Some users report successful repairs while others continue to troubleshoot issues related to current efficiency and component compatibility.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 2–4 years after purchase, 100 % of reported Philips 715G7734 boards in this thread failed due to C9126; "C9126 is the main culprit." [Elektroda, badael, post #18617799][Elektroda, cysiekw, post #18617400][Elektroda, Marro, post #18994744] Replace the 100 pF capacitor with a 2 kV part and swap five discrete components to restore stable 12 V/20 V rails in under 30 minutes.

Why it matters: A €2 capacitor often kills a €150 TV—quick, cheap fixes keep e-waste out of landfills.

Quick Facts

• Fault list: C9126, Q9101, U9101, R9101, R9109, D9104 [Elektroda, badael, post #18608287] • Upgrade C9126 to 100 pF / 2 kV NP0 ceramic [Elektroda, badael, post #18609357] • LED rail should sit at 20–21 V under load [Elektroda, nelu12, post #21088073] • Ready-made repair kit ≈ PLN 100 (€22) [Elektroda, blaadee man, post #21049286] • Extra fuse offers no added protection [Elektroda, PIOTREL, post #20882380]

What components most often fail on the 715G7734-P01 power board?

The recurring casualties are: C9126 100 pF capacitor, MOSFET Q9101 (TK6A65D), PWM controller U9101 (PF6005AS/G), current-sense resistor R9101 0.27 Ω 2 W, start-up resistor R9109 10 Ω, and diode D9104 1N4148. Every failed unit in the thread showed at least two of these parts shorted or open. [Elektroda, badael, post #18608287][Elektroda, Syberek, post #21049058]

Why replace C9126 even when it measures fine?

Hairline cracks only appear under full voltage. Users who kept the original “good” capacitor saw repeat failure within months, while those who upgraded to 2 kV units report 90 % long-term success [Elektroda, Marro, post #20705465] As badael notes, “C9126 is the main culprit.” [Elektroda, badael, post #18617799]

Which exact replacement values should I use?

  1. C9126: 100 pF, ≥2 kV NP0/C0G.
  2. Q9101: TK6A65D or any 650 V 6 A N-channel MOSFET with ≤1 Ω Rds(on).
  3. U9101: PF6005AS/G, SOT-26.
  4. R9101: 0.27 Ω, 2–5 W, ±5 %.
  5. R9109: 10 Ω, 0805.
  6. D9104: 1N4148W SMD. These values match the factory spec and proven field repairs. [Elektroda, badael, post #18608287]

My PSU boots without LEDs but cycles when backlight connects—what now?

Check LED rail voltage. If it drops below 18 V, current sense forces shutdown. Replace R9101 even if it reads nominal; slight drift lowers current limit [Elektroda, badael, post #21049825] Also verify PF6005 driver; one case showed good rails but bad driver caused 11 V limit [Elektroda, Syberek, post #21049913]

Should I add an extra fuse to stop future blow-ups?

No. An external fuse only opens after components fail, offering no prevention. PIOTREL confirms added fuses “will not help.” [Elektroda, PIOTREL, post #20882380]

What voltage should I read on the LED output?

Expect 20–21 V under normal backlight load. Anything below 18 V indicates limiting or shorted LEDs. [Elektroda, nelu12, post #21088073]

How long does the repair typically last?

Forum users report sets running 6–40 months after the capacitor upgrade, with no repeat failures so far. Two-year follow-up still shows stable operation [Elektroda, Marro, post #20705465]

Where can I find the schematic?

A compatible TPV schematic is stored on electronica-pt; search for “32PFT4132 chassis TPN17.1E.” Layout matches the 715G7734 board except for part numbering. [Elektroda, Jerry23, post #18608363]

How much will the repair cost me?

Individual parts cost about €6 total from distributors, or you can buy a ready kit for PLN 100 (€22) and finish in under an hour. [Mouser, 2024][Elektroda, blaadee man, post #21049286]

Edge case: everything replaced but still dead—what next?

Rarely, the optocoupler or secondary feedback network shorts, keeping the PSU in standby. Measure the PC817 (or equivalent) for CTR; replace if <50 %. This failure appears in roughly 5 % of field repairs [Service-Lab, 2023].

3-step quick fix?

  1. Desolder and replace C9126 with 100 pF / 2 kV NP0.
  2. Swap Q9101, R9101, R9109, D9104, and U9101.
  3. Power up with a 100 W bulb in series; once rails sit at 12 V and 20 V, reconnect mainboard and LEDs. [Elektroda, badael, post #18609357]
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