Title: Galmet 1000L Buffer Tank & Heaters: Users Share Usage Patterns, Temps & Costs

Question

Buffer 1000 L + heaters E.g. Galmet, heaters from e-heaters I have a few questions. 1. From turning off the heater (or from the last turning off), e.g. at 6.00 am to turning it on at 1.00 pm, to how many times does the temperature at the bottom of the buffer decrease and how much is it at the...

andrzej lukaszewicz · Answer

And you want some information from a crystal ball without giving basic data?
The heat demand of your building, the type of heating, your preferences, heater power, etc. are just a few basic questions out of many.

TomekO1976 · Answer

Take a look at the youtube channel Home Evolutions. There, the buffer user describes what and how. Regarding costs, even a night tariff with a price of PLN 0.30 per kWh will be significantly higher than gas or a heat pump. The issue of installation costs and energy needs.

BUCKS · Answer

It is up to you to adjust the buffer to your needs. For example, if you have radiators that need 40 degrees on the supply to heat the house, your buffer will only accumulate energy above 40 degrees. By heating the water in the buffer to, for example, 70 degrees, you have a 30-degree difference, which gives about 34 kWh of energy. But if you have radiators that will need 50 degrees for heating, a buffer heated to 70 degrees will only have a 20 degree difference, which means about 23 kWh of energy. On the other hand, if you have an underfloor heating system, which is enough for 30 degrees on the power supply, then heating the water to 70 degrees you have a difference of 40 degrees, which allows you to store about 46kWh of energy in the buffer. I didn't take into account losses etc. The conclusion is that it is better to have low-temperature heating, because then the buffer with the same capacity and at the same temperature will accumulate more energy due to the greater temperature difference. In the G12 tariff, we have 10 hours a day with cheap energy, so in theory we can heat with heaters only for 8 hours at night (22-6) and for 2 hours in the afternoon (13-15). At night, the power of the heater may be lower, because we have a full 8 hours for heating, while in the afternoon, the power should be higher enough to produce energy for heating for 2 hours in 2 hours and additionally accumulate energy for an additional 7 hours of heating between 3 pm and 10 pm. If the buffer runs out before 10 pm, you will have to heat up during the hours of expensive energy, which is about 2.5 times more expensive than at night, in other words, 1 hour of heating during the day is financially equivalent to heating for 2.5 hours at night. Also, the temperature of the water in the buffer can be different for everyone, because each installation is unique and unrepeatable. Each building can also be different, and the demand for thermal energy is of key importance here. For example, with an average power demand of 3 kW, you must provide 72 kWh of energy throughout the day. Of course, the colder it is, the more power is needed.

dmirek62 · Answer

Read the post carefully, the topic is the opinion of users of the buffer plus the heater. Five-year-old house, 148m2, standard insulation 24supr. plus 15 styrofoam. Attic 20-40 cm of wool on the floor 10 cm of polystyrene. Triple glazed windows, warm. Last years 50 +++ and today I moved a ton of eco peas in bags of 25 kg. At the age of 99, it will take me a dozen or so days if I make it at all. Hehehe. That's why I decided to set up a buffer, I don't mean to be cheap, but to be without work. If it comes out at the same price, it will still be a success. That's why I would like to read the opinion of buffer users. Added after 27 [minutes]: I watched, as for the PC, it is not so beautiful to the very end, you only need to have a floor heating and heat in the range of 35 degrees. at 7st C outside then we still have high COP from 3-5 depending on what pump. When the temperature drops below zero Cop also decreases and depends on the supplied power 1.x > 1 kW, and only this is by definition always more than the delivered 1 kW. Only in frost you will have to raise the heating temperature with the pump, e.g. to 42 degrees and then Cop decreases and heating costs increase. The cost of setting up the buffer is about PLN 6,000. The cost of setting up a PC is about PLN 26-30 thousand. zloty. The cost of setting up gas and buying a good condensing furnace is also about PLN 25-30 thousand. Costs 1:5 The only thing that can free us from costs is a PV installation. The cost of 10 kW is about PLN 43-45 thousand. The dog is buried here. If there will be PV, why gas and PC. Added after 42 [minutes]: @BUCKS How do you convert the buffer value in kWh in relation to the temp.? I have a floor heating system in the bathroom + a ladder radiator, a vestibule and in the kitchen, all supply and return lines go through the hall , the temperature on the manifold is set at 37 degrees and on the return 35 degrees. Radiators can be said to be oversized; all 7 radiators are 60x1400 v22, radiator specs are; Radiator power: at: 90/70/20'C: 2917 W at: 75/65/20'C: 2300W at: 55/45/20'C: 1183 W One radiator per room 13.15, 18 m2 and two per living room approx. 40 m2, so they can work as low-temperature radiators 40/20, maybe in this month. I will convert the radiator manifold to be controlled in each room by a thermostat because when the sun is shining or the TV is playing, the radiators do not turn on because it is warm in the living room. Added after 21 [minutes]: I made another table to calculate heating costs with a constant temperature of 9kw. I don't know if these are the correct calculations. The last two positions of each bar are the daily and monthly heating basket. 67 deg 67/40/130000=128=2.09 2.09x0.35x13x30=285.28 285.28 65 degrees 65/40/130000=119=1.58 1.58x0.35x13x30=215.67 215.67 TANK 884 215.67 SET TEMP 85 80 75 70 65 60 TEMP AFTER 40 40 POWER GRZ 9000 TIME M 309 274 240 206 171 137 H 5.08 4.34 4 3.25 2.51 2.17 Cost 0.35 16 13.67 12.6 10.23 7.9 6.83 30 Days 480.00 410.00 378.00 306.00 237.00 205.00 TANK 884 SET TEMP 85 80 75 70 65 60 TEMP AFTER 35 35 POWER GRZ 9000 TIME M 343 309 274 240 206 171 H 5.42 5.08 4.34 4 3.25 2.51 Cost 0.35 17.07 16 13.67 12.06 10.23 7.9 30 Days 512.10 480.00 410.00 378.00 306.00 237.20 TANK 884 SET TEMP 85 80 75 70 65 60 TEMP AFTER 30 30 POWER GRZ 9000 TIME M 377 343 309 274 240 206 H 6.17 5.42 5.08 4.34 4 3.25 Cost 0.35 19.35 17.07 16 13.67 12.6 10.24 30 Days 580.50 512.19 480.00 410.00 378.00 307.13 the first two lines are the heating time at max temp. i.e. 13kw for 2 hours Added after 5 [minutes]:

BUCKS · Answer

Heating 1 liter of water by 1 degree requires approx. 1.16 Wh of energy. So heating 1000 liters of water by 1 degree requires 1160 Wh, or 1.16 kWh. Going further, heating 1000 liters of water by 10 degrees requires 11.6 kWh of energy. So having a central heating installation powered by 40 degrees, having 50 degrees in the buffer, we have accumulated an additional 11.6 kWh of energy. Of course, the buffer cools down by itself, i.e. it has losses, so the actual amount of energy will be a little less, which is why good thermal insulation of the buffer is important.

andrzej lukaszewicz · Answer

A branded 7kW monoblock costs PLN 15,000, a good quality Chinese unit costs PLN 10,000. You connect electricity and water. You will need to make a slightly non-freezing mixture with glycol to say -7 degrees. It is worth 15-20 thousand to get it. with buffer, piping, foundation and glycol. A buffer will be needed, but a tiny 100-140 l can be hanging. Analyzing the last winters, the average outside temperature during the heating season is +3.5 degrees, but the length of the season has significantly lengthened, every year a cold spring. I think a PC would make economic sense for you. The undoubted advantage of the system with a buffer is the simplicity and low initial outlays. But still, without surface heating, there is not much to accumulate heat in this buffer, which he explained well @BUCKS I have a client who had an electric boiler and spent about PLN 12,000 on electricity for the whole year I + II tariff. Bungalow. similar size, but worse insulated, also radiator heating. Installed several radiator fans to improve heat distribution at relatively low temperatures. (average in winter 40-45*) After installing the PC, the annual bill came out to about 6.5 thousand. (and there were increases last year) I assume that he spent about 2-2.5 thousand on household energy (a lot of receivers, etc.). It also reduces costs for heating and hot water (4 people) from about PLN 10,000 to 4,000. during the year, i.e. we have a real COP 2.5 with only unfavorable temperatures for a PC of 40-45 degrees for central heating and 48* for hot water.

dmirek62 · Answer

A 9.5 kW PC can be bought for 12.5 thousand class [connection of water and electricity on your own, nothing], but as you mentioned, the cost of the buffer is about PLN 6,000,000 with accessories, only here nothing will break, the pump also generates its costs and it has the best coefficient at temp.7*/35/3.5 kw (up to 1 inserted), at temperatures below 0 pc it starts to make costs, with XXX PC companies not very good service and parts can be expensive.
Buffer or PC only needs PV to be happy. Thanks to the difference between the Buffer and the PC, you can buy a good Inverter up to 10 kW, you will have to spend another 12,000 on PV panels plus accessories and labor, then another 7,000. Having PV, why go for an expensive PC, which also breaks down and after 10 years you may have to buy a new one.

andrzej lukaszewicz · Answer

PC already makes sense without PV. Count the whole year, i.e. HUW heating too. You will spend 8,000 for heating with a heater, for electricity, or even more, for a PC you will spend 4,000. With a possible PV installation, the costs of heating the PC will be close to zero, with the heater + radiators you will still pay a lot.

dmirek62 wrote:
but as you mentioned, the cost of the buffer is about PLN 6,000,000 with accessories,

I think you exaggerated a bit. :crazyeyes:

Added after 15 [minutes]:

dmirek62 wrote:
it has the best coefficient at temp.7*/35/3.5 kw (up to 1 inserted), at temperatures below 0 pc it starts to make costs, with XXX PC companies not very good service and parts can be expensive.

At 0 degrees COP you will have 2.7-3 and with heaters still 1. The average temperature of the season, as I wrote, is +3.5 degrees, so there is no need to experience that your heaters will turn on for a moment in heavy frost, because you want them scream all the time!

dmirek62 · Answer

]
At 0 degrees COP you will have 2.7-3 and with heaters still 1. The average temperature of the season, as I wrote, is +3.5 degrees, so there is no need to experience that your heaters will turn on for a moment in heavy frost, because you want them heat all the time![/quote]

To be fully happy with a PC, you also need PV to keep you warm in the winter and cool in the summer, and not to peek at the meter, but these "good luck", costs PLN 45,000 10 kw. These,, happy, are just moving away!
The buffer or electric furnace also needs this "slice", in the form of PV, only that it is much closer.
Having PV, it doesn't matter what you heat the house with, it should be warm and maintenance-free.

andrzej lukaszewicz · Answer

After all, I wrote you that a PC without PV heating season will cost you 2x cheaper than a buffer. So it will save you in two seasons for the difference in expenses between the buffer with the heater and the heat pump. I guess that's logical.

Title: Galmet 1000L Buffer Tank & Heaters: Users Share Usage Patterns, Temps & Costs

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