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Installing Electric Heater in 2004 Galmet Boiler: Compatibility & 120L Capacity Queries

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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 17185286
    olopan
    Level 10  
    Hello

    Is it possible to install an electric heater in an old boiler (from 2004)? I do not have any instructions from this boiler anymore, I know that it is from galmet. Of course, the stove is now connected to the central heating. But for higher temperatures, I would prefer to heat it electrically. The boiler is covered with yellow polyurethane foam and can it be pulled off or need to be torn off? The boiler has a capacity of 120l and I wonder which heater would be the right one?
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  • #2 17185302
    1 PAWEL
    Level 42  
    The best solution is to invest in a 3-phase or single-phase 230V electric instantaneous water heater.
    Really big savings on the accounts.
  • #3 17185310
    DiZMar
    Level 43  
    Of course you can, and the boiler manufacturer is irrelevant. You need to buy a heater for the boiler with a collar and a thermostat. The higher the power, the faster the water will be heated, taking into account the permissible load capacity of the installation. You have to cut a hole for this heater and screw the heater flange in the cut hole with temperature-resistant gaskets, of course. Additionally, a thermostat should be installed that will turn off the heater when the set temperature of the water in the boiler is reached. Connect to the electrical system and enjoy hot water without lighting the central heating furnace. The fact that electricity bills will increase is a secondary matter.
  • #4 17185314
    olopan
    Level 10  
    At the turn of the century, we had a three-phase connection, but from what I can remember, the bills were high. I was also considering the option of installing an additional 80-liter electric boiler. Which option will be more economical and less unreliable for two?
  • #5 17185317
    DiZMar
    Level 43  
    1 PAWEL wrote:
    The best solution is to invest in a 3-phase or single-phase 230V electric instantaneous water heater.
    Really big savings on the accounts.

    Installing any electric water heating instead of heating it with CO means an increase in electricity bills, not savings. Of course, the flow-through method will increase the electricity bills less than heating the heater in the boiler with the same use of hot water. There is a slight subtle difference. In order to fulfill its role, the flow-through system usually needs installation and greater efficiency than heating water in a boiler. There are still a few advantages and disadvantages of both systems to each other.
    If you do not have a reduced night and weekend tariff, it is a more economical flow. If you have such a tariff and you can use it (heating at a reduced tariff), the boiler will be more economical. Failure is difficult to predict.
  • #6 17185323
    olopan
    Level 10  
    I would be more inclined to install this electric heater in this boiler, because it is less work and cheaper. I remembered that the anode has not been changed since the installation of this boiler, so I do not know what the condition of the boiler will be ...
  • #7 17185329
    DiZMar
    Level 43  
    olopan wrote:
    ... I remembered that the anode has not been changed since the installation of this boiler, so I do not know what the condition of the boiler will be ...

    What is this anode in a heated boiler with WHAT ?
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  • #8 17188464
    olopan
    Level 10  
    DiZMar wrote:
    olopan wrote:
    ... I remembered that the anode has not been changed since the installation of this boiler, so I do not know what the condition of the boiler will be ...

    What is this anode in a heated boiler with WHAT ?


    I suggested a piece of paper that was stuck to the boiler.
    Do you think that such an ordinary heater, for example from Allegro, http://allegro.pl/kospel-rawyinal-grzalka-do-...-4kw-6-4-1400w-i7257008517.html?source=google EAN + Construction + i + Tools% C4% 99dzia & ev_ln = PRODUCT + GROUP & ds_rl = 1254605 & gclid = EAIaIQobChMImKrajpzW2gIVQ6MYCh38GAvIEAQYASABEgKFEfD_BwE & gclsrc = awE.dsoduCFJAc1 will be appropriate ??
    And if I bought this heater, do I have to install the anode too?
  • #9 17188497
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #10 17188502
    DiZMar
    Level 43  
    Christophorus wrote:
    DiZMar wrote:
    What is this anode in a CO boiler?
    Simply a magnesium "rod" mounted in the boiler. Magnesium anodes are used to provide corrosion protection for domestic hot water tanks made of steel and covered with ceramic enamel.

    Thanks for the clarification. I didn't know about it.
  • #11 17189060
    olopan
    Level 10  
    Gentlemen, I cut a hole in this foam and I do not know what is under this lid, but I think there will not be a thread suitable for screwing in the heater. I don't want to dig up half of the basement and then go shopping and looking for the right parts. Can you tell me what to buy and then put it together? As I wrote before, the boiler is from 2004.

    Installing Electric Heater in 2004 Galmet Boiler: Compatibility & 120L Capacity Queries
  • #12 17189084
    DiZMar
    Level 43  
    Yet
    DiZMar wrote:
    ... You need to buy a boiler heater with a collar and a thermostat ... You have to cut a hole for this heater and screw the heater collar in the cut hole, of course, with temperature-resistant gaskets ...

    You need to buy a heater with a flange and a few holes (or drill such holes) for screws, not a screw-on heater with a thread as you presented in the link, because there is probably no such thread in your boiler. The heater flange must be much larger than the heater diameter so that it can be screwed to the boiler with several screws. Another problem is how to screw if there is no access to the inside of the boiler and there is no possibility of holding it from the inside. For the creative, it can also be solved. For example, a heater from your link and a separate flange with a thread that fits this heater.
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  • #13 17189138
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #14 17189215
    Michelson
    Level 26  
    And what is the diameter of this cap? 2 kW heaters usually have a 5/4 inch thread. In my opinion, the best solution, although it requires some work, is to buy a heater, get it and weld a flange with a thread suitable for the heater into this revision. I just do not know what type of thread there is, because I have a boiler that is already adapted to the installation of the heater.
  • #15 17189227
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
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  • #17 17190404
    Michelson
    Level 26  
    I suspect that it will fit, although they charge a bit for a piece of sheet metal with a thread. Before buying, however, I would measure this lid and consult the store in order to avoid a mistake, especially since you do not know the exact marking of the boiler. I would also buy an anode, because there is probably only a memory of that.
  • #18 17190646
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #19 17190762
    olopan
    Level 10  
    I was in the store and of course they don't have it and you have to wait for them to order. I also called the Galmet hotline and the guy said that this flange needs to be produced :D Time 4 working days + shipping.
    Speaking of the anode, is it possible that it is located on the other side of the boiler?
  • #20 17190868
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #21 17191511
    Michelson
    Level 26  
    Speaking of anodes, it is usually on the other side of the heater in horizontal tanks. For me, the water is probably aggressive, because there is not much left of the 21.3x165 anode after two years.
  • #22 17191547
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #23 17198213
    olopan
    Level 10  
    Gentlemen, I have one more question about the boiler and if it is possible, please give me a quick answer, you know the champions league, etc.
    The water in the boiler keeps the temperature for a short time and if you close these two valves (supplying and removing heat from the stove) is it safe? Because I just pawned them, and I don't have a built-in safety valve yet, and I wouldn't want anything to happen.

    I bought the muffle and I am waiting for the courier, so when I build everything up, I will let you know.
  • #24 17198862
    Michelson
    Level 26  
    I believe that it is not safe for the coil as the water is incompressible. I only close one valve (inlet) to close the circuit through the coil.
  • #25 17205888
    olopan
    Level 10  
    Yesterday I installed a safety valve and a new muff with a heater, of course it was not without some problems. The most important thing is that everything works as it should. The tank was full of rust and anode residue.
    And here is my question, because originally the anode was attached to the lid which I replaced with this muff. On the other side of the boiler there is a coil, so it will not be built there because it will simply not fit. I do not know where and how to install this anode now? Can it be loosely put into the boiler ??
  • #26 17205937
    dabu
    Level 32  
    You cannot throw it in loosely, as it must be in contact with the boiler's potential.
  • #27 17205953
    olopan
    Level 10  
    I thought so too, maybe there is a patent for it?
  • #28 17256028
    olopan
    Level 10  
    Gentlemen, I have a problem with a leaky safety valve now. There is no expansion vessel in the installation and I intend to install it together with the safety group. Can you judge if it will be well mounted?
    Installing Electric Heater in 2004 Galmet Boiler: Compatibility & 120L Capacity Queries
    To make it faster, I decided to use the hose, I hope it can be used. Can the security group https://www.obi.pl/systemy-grzewcze/hydroland...bezpieczenstwa-stalowa-do-cwu-6-bar/p/6334627 be from the CO installation ??? Because somehow the parameters do not differ, and I had access to one?
  • #29 17256258
    W0jtek92
    Level 38  
    Hello, the diagram is fine, it is better that the safety group should be connected `` rigidly '' using the PP or PEX system, but the hose will also be suitable for poverty, the safety group for CO differs in the scale of the pressure gauge, it has a range from 0 to 3 bar , and Ta for DHW from 0 to 6 bar, so the pressure gauge in this CO group will "turn" and after playing.
    Regards.
  • #30 17256288
    olopan
    Level 10  
    Hi
    It's not in Catholic, but I just put it together and so far everything is working, the water is not dripping. I have a pressure gauge up to 10 bar. Now it shows me 5 bars and isn't it better to install a reducer and reduce it to 4 ??

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around the feasibility of installing an electric heater in a 2004 Galmet boiler with a 120L capacity. Users confirm that it is possible to install an electric heater, emphasizing the need for a heater with a flange and thermostat. Various options for electric heaters are suggested, including flow-through systems and traditional electric heaters, with considerations regarding electricity costs and efficiency. The installation process involves cutting a hole in the boiler, securing the heater with gaskets, and ensuring proper access for maintenance. The importance of an anode for corrosion protection is highlighted, along with the need to check the condition of the boiler before installation. Users also discuss the challenges of finding compatible parts and the potential for leaks if valves are improperly managed.
Summary generated by the language model.
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