I have an Elektrolux refrigerator. New equipment, because it is only 8 months old and has recently started to "shoot". After the generator is turned on in the back you can clearly hear a few or a dozen clicks. This was not the case before and I am 100% sure of it. I think you have to advertise!
I have an Elektrolux refrigerator. New equipment, because it is only 8 months old and has recently started to "shoot". After the generator is turned on in the back you can clearly hear a few or a dozen clicks. This was not the case before and I am 100% sure of it. I think you have to advertise!
Nothing needs to be advertised. It just has to be like that (contraction and expansion of the material due to temperature difference). Hence the crackling sounds.
Pale cramps, but 7 months did not crackle and now from the 8th it must? After all, the shrinkage of the material did not appear completely after several months of using the refrigerator.
Thank you for your answers. The described problem concerns the model Elektrolux ERD 2343 (two doors - separate upper freezer). You write logically (from the point of view of physics), but I look at it differently. Not from the point of view of the service defending the producer, but the consumer. When something crackles and shoots after 7 months in the car, we have doubts, isn't it true? And how to explain the fact that the 7-month refrigerator was OK in this respect According to me (the consumer), something started to happen inside, maybe it went wrong. Maybe some process occurred too quickly (the name is "aging" of the equipment), maybe the wrong components were used in this production batch, maybe a cooperator collapsed, etc. after a few years, he had to issue a helmet again, and he did not enjoy decades of trouble-free equipment). In addition, I have another fundamental doubt that occurs from the very beginning of using this refrigerator and concerns the temperature in the cooling section. This model has a thermostat graduated from 0 to 6. In the manual, the manufacturer recommends as optimal setting the thermostat to the "2-3" position (approx. 40-50% of "power") and then the temperature should be below -18 oC in the freezer and +5 oC in the refrigerator. Experimentally, I put 3 thermometers in the refrigerator and I have readings: at position "3" -18 / -22 oC (freezer) and + 8 to 12 oC (in the refrigerator upper and lower shelf) - I think it is TOO WARM By setting the thermostat to pos. "6" readings -25 / -28 oC and + 4/8 oC. Conditions in the kitchen: temperature +18/19 oC, refrigerator 3-4 cm from the wall (everything according to the instructions). To sum up: I feel a "deficit" of cold in the refrigerator part. Generally, on many food products we can read that it is recommended to store them at a temperature of 1 to 6 oC. I cannot get such a temperature at home, even on position "6", ie 100% "power". So the conclusion is: does this equipment meet the requirements for refrigerators? In the manual, the manufacturer warned that position "6" is used to quickly freeze a "large load" and should not be set for too long, because the temperature may drop below 0 ° C in the cooling section and the products may be frozen. In my opinion, the producer did not keep his promise and misled me I do not have equipment that meets the requirements of "civilization" and food producers. IS IT A DEFECT AND DOES IT NOT HAVE IT
PS My old "Silesia" fridge (18-20 years old) was able to freeze cold meats under the freezer at 70% power (it was about - 2 oC). It worked without failures all the time, but after the renovation of the kitchen it was too ugly - we gave it to the "needy".
PS My old "Silesia" fridge (18-20 years old) was able to freeze cold meats under the freezer at 70% power (it was about - 2 oC). It worked without failures all the time, but after the renovation of the kitchen it was too ugly - we gave it to the "needy".
About three days ago I had a similar client to you. I produced half an hour to convince him he had OK hardware. The refrigerator is supposed to freeze? Consider! You can always call an authorized Electrolux service center, but you have to take into account the costs of an unjustified call. Such a cost is usually 50 PLN (diagnosis - despite the warranty card and the rights resulting from it).
Regardless of the diagnosis of the service, the temperatures you provide are the basis for a free diagnosis and the service is obliged to remove the irregularity or issue a declaration of impossibility of repair. If you are consistent, you will certainly lead to the replacement of equipment. I am opposed to the help of service centers in legalizing sales by producers, and the refrigerator with a temperature of 8-12 C is a waste, while the fact that it cools down to 6 to 4 and at the same time completely unnecessarily in the freezer -25 means that it does not meet the declared levels of energy consumption. Conclusion-The device is not working properly and request repair or replacement
As Skryn wrote, unfortunately, in 99% of refrigerators you can hear crackling noises. However, some companies sometimes provide repair kits that limit them but do not completely eliminate them. I recommend that you call the service and talk to them before you call them. Check if there is too much ice in the freezer or if anything is touching the evaporator in the refrigerator. Sometimes it causes such skulls.
The second thing is temperatures. Awax's colleague is not entirely right about the temperatures.
Modern equipment never measures the air temperature of the product only. If you want to check the temperature of the refrigerator, put a glass with water on the bottom shelf and measure the temperature there after some time (min 12 hours). In 99% of companies, half of the thermostat setting in the product is expected to be around 5-6 degrees. As for the freezer, the cooling system is designed in such a way that the freezer in a single-unit refrigerator should have a minimum of -18 degrees in the product. After turning on the compressor, the temperature in the freezer should drop to about -22, then only the rest of the gas cools down the refrigerator (it is clearly visible when someone turns on a new refrigerator).
PS My old "Silesia" fridge (18-20 years old) was able to freeze cold meats under the freezer at 70% power (it was about - 2 oC). It worked without failures all the time, but after the renovation of the kitchen it was too ugly - we gave it to the "needy".
About three days ago I had a similar client to you. I produced half an hour to convince him he had OK hardware. The refrigerator is supposed to freeze? Consider! You can always call an authorized Electrolux service center, but you have to take into account the costs of unjustified call. Such a cost is usually 50 PLN (diagnosis - despite the warranty card and the rights resulting from it).
For lockers: It was freezing so much, but only as much as I set it too much or after periodic "cleaning" when the parameters did not change, so then 50% was enough and on the top shelf it was sometimes about 2 oC. As the refrigerator became overgrown with ice, it grew harder.
Who knows how service technicians check temperatures at customers? I think I will put glasses with water at night and thermometers in them. In the morning after 10 hours peace of mind will probably be a very reliable reading
As Skryn wrote, unfortunately, in 99% of refrigerators you can hear crackling noises. However, some companies sometimes provide repair kits that limit them but do not completely eliminate them. I recommend that you call the service and talk to them before you call them. Check if there is too much ice in the freezer or if anything is touching the evaporator in the refrigerator. Sometimes it causes such skulls.
The second thing is temperatures. Awax's colleague is not entirely right about the temperatures.
Modern equipment never measures the air temperature of the product only.
Of course, the temperature of the product is measured, however, the product is cooled with air, which must have a lower temperature and even if the measurement was made immediately before switching on, 12 c is too much. Please provide information that the temperature is to be 5-6 degrees at an average setting. I have encountered the determination of temperatures depending on the shelf level and in the described refrigerator there is no space for keeping, for example, meat, cheese and some dairy products. I believe that the measurement of the product temperature will confirm the non-compliance with the manufacturer's declared ones. If, on the other hand, crackling is an acceptable thing in a given product, then if not the law, decency requires mentioning it in the manual.
Well, the service, of course, measures the temperature, with the so-called recorder. He puts the device in the refrigerator on the lower shelf for 24 hours, then arrives, checks the condition of the chart and, if necessary, makes a diagnosis: "car or transport" - either bouillon or gets a new refrigerator. But you have to take into account that you made a mistake in your own calculations and conclusions related to the use of an old type of refrigerator!
I see you've helped a lot of people. And this should be appreciated, respected and allows you to think that your advice can be relied on. If the measurement is to be on the lower shelf, I have about 8-12 oC (depending on the settings). This is what I have in my basement now, and in the fridge I would like 2-6 oC. Can freezing in a freezer down to - 28 / -30 oC also be considered as non-compliant?
How to technically download the "specification" of the product (refrigerator) from the manufacturer, i.e. what should and should not do? Because it is very general in the instruction manual. And such a specification would already be the starting point.
Listen to the scripts - I didn't understand the last sentence and what did you mean when you wrote about the calculations? Because I didn't count anything. The old one was different and more cold from the freezer went to the cooling part (there was such a system of a sliding shutter. In the new one it is insulated completely, maybe too well and we have too warm. They certainly limit air circulation (grill shelves are probably better - that's what I had in the old one. And in the shelves on the door I have the warmest, for example, the one for butter, about 10-12 oC). Read what the butter manufacturer recommends.
In the old fridges you had a freezer in the refrigerator compartment and the cold fell by gravity into the refrigerator. Temperature control was in the freezer. In this way, the temperature under the freezer compartment is kept low (about 0-2 degrees). In new refrigerators in a refrigerator, the product temperature is around 5-6 degrees. If someone wants to have lower temperatures, he must buy a refrigerator with a zero chamber.
The air in the refrigerator compartment may fluctuate greatly. Even about 6-8 degrees between turning the compressor on and off, therefore the temperature in the product is measured.
As for the temperature in the freezer, the matter is simplified like this. The thermostat regulates the temperature in the refrigerator. The compressor is standing until the angle of the evaporator reaches a positive temperature (usually around +4 +5 degrees). Then the compressor is started and the gas is injected into the freezer. When the temperature in the freezer reaches about -22-24 degrees, only then does the refrigerator begin to cool down to the set thermostat temperature. The longer the compressor works, the temperature in the freezer may be lower, even a lot.
There is one more issue with single aggregate equipment. If it is too cold in the room where the refrigerator is located, it can make eggs with the temperature.
As I wrote to you, first check the temperature in the product on the last shelf. Just do it with a good thermometer. The cheap ones are cheating.
Skryn can still measure the temperature in the refrigerator with a pyrometer. We get a faster answer if the equipment is working properly
Hello I am surprised by the reluctance to call for service, after all, the equipment is under warranty, and you can always refuse to pay on demand. As for temperature measurement, the method with a glass of water is the best at home, but the thermometer must be accurate. I have met clients with thermometers that cheat even by a few degrees. For the measurements, I use a recorder, which, when left in the refrigerator, measures every 10 minutes and remembers each measurement. We recommend that the customer only move, e.g. every 5 hours, the recorder from the lower shelf to the middle one, then the upper one to the door and to the freezer. In this way, we have an analysis of the whole when reading. Including compressor operating frequency. The temperature problem in this refrigerator may be related to the kitchen temperature. It must be sufficiently high, because in temperatures that are too low, e.g. due to poor heating of the room, the downtime of the compressor will be long for economic reasons (the time it takes for the plate to reach a positive temperature), i.e. it will be too warm in the refrigerator. As for the crackles, it's hard to say - you have to hear them. Refrigerators of all manufacturers are currently shooting. greetings Andrew
In the course of my exposition, my previous speaker, XAX, was before me about the effects of room temperatures. This is a very important factor that many people do not notice. AK
the temperature in an efficiently operating glacier, when the thermostat is set to about half, must not exceed 6 degrees, and with the maximum setting, the temperature on the lower shelf in the refrigerator should drop to about 0 degrees, if your temperature remains in the range of 6-12 degrees, boldly call the service and do not be afraid that you will have to pay. And do not let it be so. You may have a problem with convincing the website about the persistence of glitches, because most manufacturers write in the manual that they can occur and when buying a refrigerator, you had the right to read the instructions. ok then show them that all staple foods (requiring refrigeration) are not suitable for storage in this invention.
Hello. The refrigerator cannot be checked with the room trmometer as the readings will be incorrect, it must be an intracellular trm. And then it will surely be ok
This intracellular thermometer is "ki devil"? I use thermometers for refrigerators (bought in a household appliance store) and a window thermometer. Now the fridge is set to max, ie "6" and in the freezer I have approx. -25 oC, on the top shelf of the fridge, the thermomert in a glass with water shows 5-8 oC, another on the shelf "for butter" on the door + 10 oC. A lot, no!
Hello Listen, you write that it worked for a few months, and now it starts to pop and work louder. It is possible that someone was moving it, check with the spirit level that the refrigerator is level and not tilted more to one side. Some refrigerators are very sensitive and similar things can happen over time, I know this from the autopsy. Regards bad15
According to me (the consumer), something started to happen inside, maybe it went wrong. Maybe some process occurred too quickly (the name is "aging" of the equipment), maybe the wrong components were used in this production batch, maybe a cooperator collapsed, etc. after a few years, he had to issue a helmet again, and he did not enjoy decades of trouble-free equipment).
I do not have equipment that meets the requirements of "civilization" and food producers. IS IT A DEFECT AND DOES IT NOT HAVE IT 
Skryn can still measure the temperature in the refrigerator with a pyrometer.
