logo elektroda
logo elektroda
X
logo elektroda

Effective Methods for Blackening Aluminum: Seeking Simple Solutions (Electronics Forum)

hiras 55901 25
ADVERTISEMENT
Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 271273
    hiras
    Level 14  
    Posts: 87
    Help: 5
    Rate: 17
    As in the topic. After 14 days of searching the Internet, I give up scientific chemistry. I need a simple but effective method.
    Sorry that I am asking this topic on the electronic forum but I have not found a chemical one.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #2 271283
    olcha0098
    Level 28  
    Posts: 1511
    Help: 22
    Rate: 57
    I heard that aluminum is heated and "thrown" into the oil. Hehe, but I don't know if it's true :)
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #3 271291
    hiras
    Level 14  
    Posts: 87
    Help: 5
    Rate: 17
    This is how steel that actually takes a dark color is hardened.
  • #4 271302
    avatar
    Level 36  
    Posts: 4137
    Help: 159
    Rate: 406
    then clean ALU to hot water and add Soda (one from the store, in plastic jars) and it turns black :)
  • #5 272737
    bobo
    Level 29  
    Posts: 1318
    Help: 69
    Rate: 686
    Aluminum is dyed black with the usual fabric dyes.
    Before that, the surface of the object must be free from scratches and scratches, and then. you have to clean it completely: nitric acid + water in a proportion of half to half; you immerse the object for 10 to 30 seconds. Then you cook the object in the dissolved dye for about 2 - 10 minutes (at about 80 degrees). In order for the surface to have a durable coating after dyeing, you need to cook the item for another hour. in pure water, preferably distilled.
    Greetings
  • #6 272799
    olcha0098
    Level 28  
    Posts: 1511
    Help: 22
    Rate: 57
    And you don't accidentally add vinegar during this cooking?
  • #7 272891
    bobo
    Level 29  
    Posts: 1318
    Help: 69
    Rate: 686
    Seriously, .... it doesn't pour.
    Greetings
  • #8 273181
    gulgot
    Level 13  
    Posts: 75
    Rate: 11
    Not all aluminum can be easily blackened at home. Effective and permanent blackening is achieved in the anodizing process. It is possible to obtain other colors, e.g. blue. I recommend taking this alu to the powder paint shop - they anodize there before painting. They blackened me a few elements for the brewery: sm21:
  • #9 273198
    ozzman
    Level 26  
    Posts: 1099
    Help: 43
    Rate: 42
    vinegar is added only when you want the takanine not to stain your skin after rinsing - I know from my own experience
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #10 273362
    bobo
    Level 29  
    Posts: 1318
    Help: 69
    Rate: 686
    Re. Gurgle
    A minor correction, permanent electrolytic staining, is anodization (oxidation of the surface and its discoloration). Contrary to appearances, this particular process is easy to do at home. Anodizing, oxidation creates only a fairly resistant (colorless) layer on the Al surface, you can later color the surfaces, e.g. with varnishes. In fact, the trick is to make the paint coat stick permanently to Al.
    Greetings
  • #11 277159
    gzresiek
    Level 20  
    Posts: 509
    Help: 19
    Rate: 29
    Do you know what black heat sinks are for? :lol: Just to increase the heat sink's contact area with the air, not to get some colors. :) I do not know how the heat sinks black out at the factory, but once I took a piece of aluminum, applying it to the grinder, I produced filings that just fell on the radiator underneath it, that it was covered with filings. If someone tried, the alu filings are invisible but very hot:?
  • #12 277293
    oldking
    Level 33  
    Posts: 1941
    Help: 162
    Rate: 519
    Hello

    "gzresiek", you kick something, by changing the color nothing in the world changes its surface.
    And it is about a completely different phenomenon, the radiation of heat to the environment, which is, let's say, easier than black (I explain briefly).
  • #13 277335
    Nemo
    Level 31  
    Posts: 2077
    Help: 9
    Rate: 72
    In sum. Coloring of aluminum at home can be done as follows (from the book Electroplating at home):
    An object made of aluminum is ground or polished. We degrease. Then we immerse for 15 (or 5) seconds in 20% nitric acid HNO3. Then rinse with cold water. The radiator connected with a thick aluminum wire is put into a solution of 20% sulfuric acid H2SO4. Inside the acid tub there must be either two aluminum objects or one lead Pb and the other aluminum. In the case of the Pb / Al system, we use direct current, a voltage of 16V and a current density of probably 2A / dm2. If we have an Al / Al system alternating current, it can be, for example, 20V and a similar density. The allodyning process (production of the Al2O3 aluminum oxide layer) is carried out for about 60 - 90 minutes. During operation, the acid must be cooled to below 18 ° C. The process does not work properly at higher temperatures. After finishing the allodyning, rinse the object and then put it in the dyeing bath. There are many recipes. The best are baths based on iron sulphides (black inorganic dye), because the color is the most durable and relatively resistant to temperature. Cook in a (acid) dye bath, then close the pores in hot water (about 40 minutes of cooking). And we have a heat sink.
    This is more or less what it looks like. If you don't clean the item before allodyning, it will have smudges later on. Not mixing during staining will result in uneven color. A lot of work and ingredients in total. Better to rely on professionals - less fun, although it may be more expensive.
    Sometimes you can buy heat sinks already blackened, but I only managed it twice.
    Regards.
  • #14 277529
    gzresiek
    Level 20  
    Posts: 509
    Help: 19
    Rate: 29
    :arrow: oldking, sometimes you can find blackened heat sinks with a light color, e.g. light green, but it is for better heat dissipation. Why is this happening? Well, because it's not about the color, but about the surface area, increased by obtaining many particles on the surface. :)
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #15 277876
    Nemo
    Level 31  
    Posts: 2077
    Help: 9
    Rate: 72
    Black color facilitates heat dissipation - it absorbs faster, but also gives up faster. Other colors, e.g. green on heat sinks, are used only to protect their surface. Besides, blackening is not the easiest and not the cheapest. Maybe that's why some heat sinks are green. Sometimes it is for aesthetic reasons.
    I recommend the publication on heat sinks in Polish Elektronik Elektorze no. 7/94.
    Regards.
  • #16 443050
    grzeskk
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2193
    Help: 319
    Rate: 723
    black makes it easier to dissipate heat, but it makes it difficult to receive from the transistor - I tested myself in an identical layout, blackened and white radiator cooled with a fan - with white, the system tended more slowly
  • #17 443071
    stasiekm
    Level 30  
    Posts: 1369
    Help: 77
    Rate: 100
    because the transistors are screwed to the white polished aluminum, because there the heat exchange does not take place through radiation but through conductivity ...
  • #18 699216
    gregers666
    Level 2  
    Posts: 3
    Look here

    To view the material on this forum you must be logged in.
    To view the material on this forum you must be logged in.

    You have a full description.
  • #19 2084667
    xys007
    Level 12  
    Posts: 17
    With the better heat dissipation through blackened heat sinks, someone has done a lot of harm to humanity ...; p

    Certainly, he misunderstood the theories of black-body radiation, and neither aluminum nor any of its coatings are such; p ...

    Quote:
    Black color facilitates heat dissipation - it absorbs faster, but also gives up faster.


    :arrow: Nemo, bodies radiate heat in the infrared and not in the visible spectrum, so color has nothing to do with it :P In addition, the protective layer can absorb heat only at the rate at which aluminum will give it away, and on the way there will be other phenomena that obstruct the heat flow.

    So black mainly improves aesthetic value and increases corrosion resistance. Perhaps blackened aluminum dissipates heat better than corroded ... but I do not know, maybe someone will comment?

    PS In the past, all heat sinks for computers were blackened and now they are not ... I wonder why? :P I even have 2 graphics cards with a heatsink painted in black paint! (both from the same company in Taiwan :P )
  • #20 2084832
    gzresiek
    Level 20  
    Posts: 509
    Help: 19
    Rate: 29
    Well, because decent blackening means increasing the surface of the heat sink's contact with the air and that's what it's all about, the color has nothing to do with it. Regards :)
  • #21 2084931
    bobo
    Level 29  
    Posts: 1318
    Help: 69
    Rate: 686
    Nice archeology. And about aluminum corrosion? ......I do not know.
    Greetings
  • #22 2087718
    Nemo
    Level 31  
    Posts: 2077
    Help: 9
    Rate: 72
    xys007 wrote:
    :arrow: Nemo, bodies radiate heat in the infrared and not in the visible spectrum, so color has nothing to do with it :P In addition, the protective layer can absorb heat only at the rate at which aluminum will give it away, and on the way there will be other phenomena that obstruct the heat flow.


    I didn't make it up. See in Elektronik Elektor nr 7/1994 - "Radiators - when and how to use". It is about reducing the thermal resistance at the interface: heat sink - air. According to this article, blackened has 10% less Rth ha

    Regards.
  • #23 2087965
    bobo
    Level 29  
    Posts: 1318
    Help: 69
    Rate: 686
    How long can one topic be reheated (this has been for 2 years). I think everything was written about it at that time, why the hell to fight it again, just because someone woke up with his hand in the potty. What does it matter, black or not black, is supposed to give off heat and that's it. As in the saying, it doesn't matter if the cat is white or black, it has to catch the mice.
    Greetings
  • #24 2110500
    emil
    Level 16  
    Posts: 186
    Help: 5
    Rate: 46
    If it is connected with the fact that people living, for example, in Africa have dark skin and in Greenland light skin, you will know that black radiates warmth better, and light skin - much less. Blackened radiators are always smaller than non-blackened ones because they dissipate heat better.
  • #25 2607686
    adigrzelczak
    Level 18  
    Posts: 362
    Help: 2
    Rate: 12
    Hello.
    I have this type of question:
    I recently bought heat sinks in a non-anodized option. Well, but their surface is as if covered with something (so that they do not tarnish) only in the place of cutting you can see clean alu. Is it possible to make such a coating on the cut places in some simple way? Of course, varnishing and anodizing are not included in the game.
  • #26 2612451
    _jta_
    Electronics specialist
    Posts: 48808
    Help: 3197
    Rate: 4182
    I think that it is easier than varnishing it, it cannot be done anymore. ;) And it is not easy, the varnish does not catch without oxides.

    As for the color: A color that is bright in visible light can be dark in infrared, and vice versa.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around effective methods for blackening aluminum, with users sharing various techniques. Suggestions include heating aluminum and immersing it in oil, using a soda solution, and employing fabric dyes after cleaning the surface with nitric acid. Anodizing is highlighted as a reliable method for achieving a durable black finish, which involves creating an aluminum oxide layer and dyeing it. Users also mention the importance of surface preparation and the potential for using powder coating services. The conversation touches on the thermal properties of blackened aluminum, noting that while black surfaces may enhance heat dissipation, the color itself does not significantly affect thermal conductivity.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: Tests show black-anodised aluminium can cut thermal resistance by 10 % [Elektroda, Nemo, post #2087718]; "Anodizing is easy to do at home" [Elektroda, bobo, post #273362] Fast, safe blackening needs good cleaning, <18 °C acid bath, and sealing.

Why it matters: Makers, repair techs and hobbyists gain a durable, low-cost black finish that also shaves thermal resistance on heatsinks.

Quick Facts

• DIY anodising: 16-20 V DC/AC, ~2 A ⁄ dm² current density [Elektroda, Nemo, post #277335] • Bath must stay below 18 °C or the oxide layer flakes [Elektroda, Nemo, post #277335] • Black anodising reduces Rθ-ha by approx. 10 % [Elektroda, Nemo, post #2087718] • Commercial anodising runs ≈ $2–4 ⁄ dm² for small parts [Finishing.com] • Typical oxide thickness: 5–25 µm for Type II coatings [Aluminium Anodizing Handbook, 2020]

What’s the quickest home method to turn aluminium black?

Clean the part, dip 10–30 s in a 1:1 nitric-acid : water mix, rinse, then boil 2–10 min in concentrated fabric dye at ~80 °C, finally seal 1 h in boiling water [Elektroda, bobo, post #272737] Finish lasts months if left indoors.

Can I really use grocery-store soda to blacken aluminium?

A hot-water bath with washing soda (sodium carbonate) darkens lightly but rubs off easily; it lacks the oxide anchor created in anodising [Elektroda, avatar, post #271302] Use it only for temporary prototypes.

How do I anodise aluminium for a permanent black coat?

  1. Degrease, then dip 15 s in 20 % HNO₃. 2. Anodise 60–90 min in 20 % H₂SO₄ at <18 °C, 16 V DC, 2 A/dm², Al cathode [Elektroda, Nemo, post #277335] 3. Rinse, dye with iron-sulphide black, seal 40 min in boiling water. "Colour is locked inside the pores" [Elektroda, Nemo, post #277335]

Does heating aluminium and quenching in oil work like it does for steel?

No. Aluminium does not harden or blacken via oil quench; the trick works only with steels that form martensite [Elektroda, hiras, post #271291] Expect a messy, unchanged surface.

Will black paint improve my heatsink’s cooling?

A proper anodised black finish lowers thermal resistance to air about 10 % [Elektroda, Nemo, post #2087718] Ordinary spray paint adds an insulating layer and can raise junction temperature by 2–5 °C [Thermal Design Guide, 2019].

Why are some heatsinks green or even bare metal?

Green chromate or clear anodise adds corrosion resistance when cost or colour aesthetics outrank small thermal gains. Manufacturers skip black when airflow is forced or cost dominates [Elektroda, Nemo, post #277876]

How can I touch up freshly cut edges on anodised fins?

Brush a thin aluminium-primer lacquer, bake at 120 °C for 20 min. It protects from oxidation, though colour may differ slightly [Elektroda, jta, post #2612451] Re-anodising small cuts is impractical without full acid bath.

What common mistakes ruin a DIY anodising job?

Over-temperature baths (>18 °C) cause soft, powdery oxide that peels [Elektroda, Nemo, post #277335] Poor degreasing leaves streaks. Skipping agitation gives blotchy dye. An edge case: reversed polarity eats the part in minutes.

Is colour relevant to infrared radiation?

Visible colour doesn’t always match IR emissivity—some white paints emit IR strongly. Yet black anodised Al shows emissivity ~0.85, bare Al only ~0.05 [NASA Coatings Database]. That’s why black lowers Rθ-ha.

What safety gear do I need when working with acids?

Wear nitrile gloves, face shield, acid-resistant apron and provide ventilation. Keep baking soda for spills and store acids in HDPE. Even 20 % H₂SO₄ can cause instant skin burns [MSDS, H₂SO₄, 2022].

Which power supplies work for hobby anodising?

A 0-30 V adjustable bench supply or a recycled ATX PSU with a DC-DC buck module handles 1–5 A loads on small parts. Maintain constant current to avoid pitted oxide [Electroplating at Home, 2018].

How much material does anodising add—will threads still fit?

Type II anodising grows half outward, half inward; a 20 µm layer adds ≈ 10 µm per side [Aluminium Anodizing Handbook, 2020]. Allow clearance on precision fits.
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT