Car Air Conditioning Leak: DIY UV Dye Detection & Necessary Ultraviolet Lamp or Service Visit

Hello
I have a leaky air-conditioning in my car, after three days it is empty and I have a question whether after filling the air conditioning with dye or the so-called ultraviolet, I am able to look for a leak myself, do I need an ultraviolet lamp or do I just have to go to the service?

Rather, glasses would be useful, although a large leak can be seen with the naked eye because there is oil in the gas. The condenser (radiator) is most often used, unless the car has a rich history. Where you refilled, they should check it for free.

I have papers from the previous owner and there is an invoice for replacing the sensor in the air conditioning and a note that the pressure in the system is too high, maybe there is a reason

Excessive pressure could damage the system. You can check with a special spray which is soapy water but it works and you can immediately see where it goes. Spray hose fittings, fill valves, screw connections. Alternatively, the plant that fills maybe have a lamp and glasses and you can see right away.

Which means too high pressure, if the fan does not turn on, the pressure also increases, you bought the car, now your problem with the air conditioning pre-soldered.

I used to work in a company that dealt with air conditioning. A celadon substance is added to the oil in the climate, which glows when illuminated by UV light, shine a UV diode along the wires, connections and you will see.

is this glowing substance always added to the oil and how long is it active after the leak?

where I worked, it was always mixed with the oil added to the air conditioning. I don't know how long it's active, but it's been active for a while for sure. where I did suction, checking the tightness (vacuum, often ineffective) and refilling it cost 140 PLN.

and the vacuum is ineffective, because the installation behaves differently as it is under pressure, and otherwise when the vacuum is done .....

and I always had to check all the wires with a UV flashlight; /; /; / but it doesn't work there anymore. check it all carefully UV, maybe you will find something.

a friend will write a quote for the car, I will tell you where to look.

I knew a little how the air-tightness of the air-conditioning system is checked. there are several ways, namely by using an electronic detector or by filling the system with nitrogen to the operating pressure of 15 bar and using a special spray. Electronic detector detects compounds, probably halon, ie gas contained in the factor r134a. On the other hand, the spray, under the influence of nitrogen, turns into foam.
I suggest going to a good repair shop - they have such equipment.

fiat marea 1.8 and thanks for all the replies

Not only under the influence of nitrogen, it turns into foam, but it is checked with nitrogen to reduce the cost of searching for a leak.

If you want to look for yourself, it will give you nothing if you cannot weld aluminum on your own.

Personally, I try not to exceed the pressure of 8 bar during my luck test, because at low shadow it never exceeds 8 bar. during normal operation, the thinner pipe is up to 24 bar, the thicker suction pipe is around 2 bar

I will connect to the topic.
I went to recharge the air-conditioning, they charged me and the machine checked the tightness in a vacuum and it was supposed to be ok. The air-conditioning was charged with this factor shining under the uv light. Now I would like to check for myself, to be sure, with a uv lamp.
And now the question is whether such an ordinary uv flashlight and ordinary yellow glasses will do the trick?
Does there have to be a special lamp and special glasses?

zuh1305 wrote:

And now the question is whether such an ordinary uv flashlight and ordinary yellow glasses will do the trick?

Yes, he can.
Secondly, check if the radiator fan is spinning after turning on the air conditioning.

3 days is the average hole for air conditioning coolers.

Thanks for the answer.
The climate is working so far, but I want to check if there is any small leak. If it is, I will go to suck the medium (while it is still there) and seal it. And if it is tight, I will sleep well

Hello. Tricked here ... I have MOVANO 2010 and all these methods have failed. I replaced the default condenser, compressor and dryer - all on new original O-rings and then, after 2 weeks, the system is empty. I will add that under the board I also shone UV.

greetings

You load 25-30bar and spray the tester on the connectors and hoses. There is no option that as a new condenser and compressor are only hoses and connectors. Only front or as much cool? How are the ports?

25-30 bar ??? it's probably a broken system, huh?

The amateur pounds it nice. There will be a hole in the condenser, it will be known where it is, and there will be no trace of the agent and the UV dye. Just take a ride in the rain and everything is nicely washed. Only high pressure with nitrogen plus special chemicals (shampoo + warm water + atomizer) detect the fault quickly.
UV works well for the first rain or car wash.

Bogdan007 wrote:

25-30 bar ??? it's probably a broken system, huh?

Have you seen what is happening in the system when the radiator fan does not start because it burned out or the control failed?
25 bar is nothing extraordinary

Therefore, at 25 30b there is an HP compressor switch, but what to write to the lamers, they know better themselves !!!

Strumien swiadomosci swia wrote:

Therefore, at 25 30b there is an HP compressor switch, but what to write to the lamers, they know better themselves !!!

In Fords there is a 40 bar safety valve, when a smoke cloud will work, the electronic standard is about 30 bar.
Bravo Awareness stream - you poured a bucket of cold water on the burning lame heads.

Hello.
I did not want to start a new topic regarding air conditioning system leaks, so I am hooking up to this topic.

Patient Skoda Octavia 2001 1.9 TDI KOMBI.

The air-conditioning punching machine did not detect any leaks, the problem is that there is some micro-tightness as a result, the air-conditioning only works for about a year. The situation repeated a second time and I would like to fix - seal the system.

I was thinking about replacing the green o-rings on all connected pipes and the evaporator, but does it make sense and bring any expected results?

I read somewhere that in this model of Skoda it releases the air conditioning dryer and the differential pressure valve.

Please advise whether it makes sense to buy these elements and replace them yourself?

4quest wrote:

Please advise whether it makes sense to buy these elements and replace them yourself?

Does not make sense. You have to go to someone who will charge the system with nitrogen to, say, 20 atm and check the tightness thoroughly. You have a super small leak, but any leak can be detected.

A specialist with contrast will attract you and he will come out where he is going. You won't do anything yourself.